spiderwebfx

Brake light powerwire shorted to chassis,

Would this 'cause the brakes on the ute to work funny? I've checked the brake wires back to where it joins the main vehicle loom and there is no problems with it there. Trying to decide the next place to look. I.e. rear brake lights, just follow the loom or?

Just a quick photo from when I had to move house:

This is sitting on the front suspension above. Adjustable spring perches in the rear and ROH 15x7 +6 wheels I got of my Grandfathers Studebaker.

As for the front suspension. Decided to go the S13/S14 hybrid suspension route, four pot turbo brake calipers and also put in a S14 power steering rack.

Front suspension consists of:

S14 Cusco coilovers. (Dual camber adjustment. Slotted mount and camber plates.)

S14 hub carrier.

S14 turbo five stud hubs.

S14 castor rod brackets.

S13 adjustable castor arms

S13 lower control arms with Nolathane bushes and S14 balljoint.

S13 swaybar with Nolathane bushes.

Front brakes:

S14 four pot turbo calipers.

S14 Znoelli S12 rotors.

S14 EBC Yellowstuff brake pads.

The rotors and pads I pulled off my S14 before I sold it. Photo is from when they were new.

Steering rack:

S14 steering rack.

Custom spline shaft to mate S12 steering column to rack.

S14 rack ends shortened 10mm.

S14 tie rod ends.

I'd like to get aftermarket rack ends and tie rod ends but it's huge expense even for second hand ones.

I also bought the Techno Toy Tuning adjustable arms for the rear axle.

Rear brakes are factory S14 calipers (with integrated handbrake) and new TSW rotors. I'm still figuring out how I can do this. I'm thinking of just dropping an S14 handbrake lever and cables straight into it.

Project Thread

Discuss if you so wish.

Discussion Thread

Time I posted up my ride. I've been trolling and adding a little bit of input to the forum where I can, but overall I'm a nobody without having posted my project. It's not as old as a lot of other projects on here, but I'm going to post it anyway.

Anyway...

In August 2010, I bought this:

I bought the car with no engine, gearbox, or driveshaft.

One of the first things I did was pull everything out of the engine bay so I could respray it.

I gave it a good sand and did some anti-rust prep. I etched primed it to get a good base and then sprayed it with Icy White paint.

I bought a S15 SR20DE and manual gearbox to go in it. Then it sat on the ground for 12months while I mucked around with other stuff.

I bought a shortened 2WD Hilux diff for it and cut the old diff housing up so I could weld the brackets and everything on to fit it in. Five stud conversion ftw!

Sounds like an earth fault.check for earth from the stop bulbs

On the trailer? Only reason I ask is because when I'm testing the circuits without the trailer plugged in, I get current from the brake light to every other wire.

No, don't have another car to hook it up to atm. I can try again on Monday, just wanted it sorted as I need to use it tonight.

Hey all,

I've got a problem with one of our work trailers and I can't for the life of me figure out the problem.

It is a lighting issue, and everything works fine until the brakes are applied.

Left indicator does left, right indicator does right, taillights work.

When the brakes are applied, the light up every bulb! If they're applied when the right indicator is on, the right indicator stops and left side blinks and vice versa. The indicators also make the taillight bulbs dim when on.

I checked the wires with a volt meter and I think the problem is the ute not the trailer. When the brakes are applied, I get a voltage reading between the brake wire and all other wires. Everything else is fine. Makes me think that the wires are crossing over somewhere but I don't know where. All the lights on the ute work fine.

Has anyone got any thoughts?

I was thinking the same this morning. What is there in 245/50r14?

It pretty hard to find anything wide and low pro enough in 14 or 15

Only Eagers and Radial T/A's in that size now as far as I know. You can get 235/60R14's easy enough still but that's a little bit taller.

I'm struggling to find me a set of 205/50R15 and 225/45R15's for my S12. Only options I can find are track tyres or the Hankook RS2 and RS3. Neither Hankook options are imported into the country though.

For a 14" you can get a lot of options in a 185/55R14

For a 15" you can get a Toyo T1R in a 225/50R15

I dunno if I should start a new thread... Any performance orientated tires in "14 these days? Are eagers any good or just used for the look?

Used for look mostly. The handle like ass, although better than the BFG Radial T/A's. Both are pretty much a crossply tyre with a steel belt over the top.

Toyo make some good 14" tyres and Nitto have some as well. Depends what size you're wanting though.

I think mileage is so good because they were actually designed for NZ conditions and used to be made in NZ

Unfortunately this is not true. The Supercat tyre was designed in Australia for Australia. They claimed to have been made in New Zealand for New Zealand roads as a sales pitch. The Australian version and NZ version were identical. Of course as you also said they aren't made here anymore either.

Toyo's are a good option. May be a little noisy if it's just a run about as they're more of a performance type tyre.

Hankook is another option which will have something suitable within budget.

Linglong is the only cheap option that I'd ever sell (they sound like shit, but don't let that put you off). At work I've pulled my fair share of shit chinese tyres off that have failed WoF's because the tyre has splits/seperated/tread falling off before they're even half worn. (I stripped two "Diamondback" tyres today that I'm suprised hadn't burst.)

How long is a full roll? I know you can buy them in different lengths, i.e. 5m, 10m, 20m etc... I bought 12m of bundy tube from Repco for $50 (I think), but at the time I didn't know where else I could get it.

http://www.wayco.co.nz/w1001.htm

That's what we use at work (tyre shop) on a day to day basis. One of the best and most reliable jacks I've ever come across. They do cost around $300 I think though.

One of those lasts us 4-5 years with multiple use everyday except Sundays. They go up at a decent speed and come down nice, easy and smooth.

It's rated to 2.1 tonne, but if you need more, it has been tested to over 6 tonne, just not warrantied over the 2.1 mark.

Haha right.

Thoughts on these ones:

http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r97108825#enlargeimg

both will look shit.

So you'd recommend the ZShop ones?

When I bought some I got them from here: http://www.thezstore.com/

These ones?

Garden edging?

Old fire hose works mint too.

Keen on more information on both of these.

I've decided to go with custom steel wheels on my S12 but have to run 25mm spacers on the front of it. To make this fit, I am going to need to run flares or something as the wheel centre fits flush with the guard (not taking into account the lip of the rim that sticks out another 25-30mm).

I've done some research and Zg Fairlady flares will fit perfectly but I can't figure out where I can get them. I know that they are 2 1/4" (57mm) so thought maybe these ones from Trademe would work but I'm not so sure.

Can anyone chuck in some personal experience and recommendations?

Just some info on the car:

Silvia S12

Front: S13/S14 Hybrid front suspension. S12 Crossmember, S13 front LCA's, S14 coilovers, S14 5 stud hubs, S14 turbo calipers and rotors.

Rear: Toyota Hilux diff (live axle), 5 stud, S14 rear calipers and rotors.

Wheels I want to run:

Front: 15x8 Soft-8's with 205/50(or 55)R15 tyres. Custom offset (TBC).

Rear: 15x9 Soft-8's with 225/45(or 50)R15 tyres. Custom offset (TBC) I may go 10's on the rear if I go with flares.

Another one for the S12 please.

I want one done with something from here: Black Steel D-Windows

And another one done with something from here: Soft 8

I'd like one of each in black. And another one or two of each in a different color.

Thanks again

Chris

This isn't as bad as the above oens, but had my old S14 pass a WoF when the rear tyres had the cords hanging out. The rear's passed with "1.6mm" of tread left...

Awesome, I'm happy with that, thanks.

Can anyone photochop some Work Meister S1 2P onto this photo please:

I would like same size wheels (15") but staggered width if you can do it. Preferably in a gunmetal color with polished lip, but the silver I can settle with.

-Chris

kevlar or teflon is fine.

Awesome stuff, thanks for the reply! Also, while I'm at it, what is the main reason for rose joints / cheap aftermarket arms failing certs, and are their any special requirements for aftermarket tie rods ends as opposed to any other rose jointed end?

For a cert do rose joints have to be kevlar lined or will they settle for teflon lined ones? Got a set of Techno Toy Tuning 4-links for my s12 and they are Teflon lined, I'm now hoping I can actually certify them.

I was talking to a tyre guy I know the other day who sells/stocks Toyos, he said Toyo have stopped making the T1R model and replaced it with the T1S or something. so they could just be using up whats left around the world. so might be a good idea to get in quick.

This is only in 16 or 17" upwards. The T1R's are still being produced in the smaller sizes: 13", 14" and 15".