spiderwebfx

She's only 18months old... And gets grumpy after 6:30pm...

Am keen.  Just have to find out if I'll have my daughter or not.

Did a bit more today.  Aeroquip fittings showed up for the power steering, so got that installed.  Does anybody know where to get a 15mm ID power steer hose?  Everything seems to be 1/2" (12.7mm) or 5/8" (15.9mm) which is too big and too small.

Also made a little plate to hold the speed sender in the gearbox, and pulled the gearbox crossmember out to repaint it again.  Installed alternator, and started putting on that part of the loom.

Shit I've been slack on this.

Couple of days ago I put some 225/45R16 Toyo T1R's on the rims.  Will look great once they're on the car.

Today I finally did something with the power steering, have a couple of Aeroquip fittings coming due to having to make a right angle out of the power steering rack.

Also pulled the diff apart to get the spring perches modified...

Hopefully tomorrow I'll have the power steering bits finished, alternator on, and the gearbox loom in place.

Does anyone have any tips for battery relocation on the cheap?  When I painted the engine bay, I pulled the battery tray out.  Was also considering still having proper terminals inside the engine bay some how?

That would be awesome when would it be not a big issue just interested.

Probably leaving in the next two or three weeks.  We've started loading it now, just need a couple of other things to finish filling it up.

195/45R14 are also shorter than 175/65R14 giving more low if that's worth anything.

You would have to import them from overseas.  Australia, or if you can find them, USA.  The NZ importer, won't import anything they aren't supposed.

If you can find them in the US, I may be able to help with shipping as we are currently loading a container of tyres at the moment.  (Albeit a lot bigger than this.)    I would have to confirm with my boss though.

If they are worn on both inside and outside, they are under-inflated.  Normally you'd run them at 40psi.  On a van, putting them up to 44psi won't hurt.  Most 17" tyres are rated to 44psi or 51psi.  The few that aren't rated to this, will be decent quality that are rated higher.

Check your pressures at least once a month, and go to a tyre shop to get it done.  It's a complimentary service (at least at mine) and their gauges will always be more accurate than that of the petrol stations.  (I know of a Gull one that is out 12psi right now.)

If they have worn just the inside, you either have to much negative camber, or too much toe in and vice-versa if it's worn the outside.  Almost any wear pattern can be corrected by an alignment technician that knows what they're doing providing there is full adjustment capabilities.  Being a van, you'll have this.  Tell them to make it wear even, even if it means going out of spec.  (They absolutely must know what they're doing.)  BA Falcons are a prime example where you need to go out of spec to get the tyres to wear properly. 

Also, in terms of blaming the last wheel alignment.  If you got it done, and your tyres were already worn on the edge, the alignment won't fix the wear pattern until the tyres are replaced.   It'll slow it down, but it will not flatten the rest of the tyre out to match the worn part.

Cheers, yeah i saw those i just meant the bit where battlesnayke said he had some paperwork that said a 195/45r15 can be stretched legally onto a 8.5" wide wheel, i know falken 195/45r15 legally go on an 8" wide wheel so i wonder if a 205/50r15 would legally go onto a 8.5?

 

Cheers

225/50R15 is the smallest Falken that can go on an 8.5" rim.

While we at it any contacts on Maxxis mud tyres??

I don't get good pricing, but what size and pattern?

Have sent you a message.

-Chris

Only option you have apart from semi-slicks are Avon or BFGoodrich, neither of which are available in New Zealand.  The BFGoodrich g-Force Rival can be brought in through Tirerack.com, but freight is roughly $80USD per tyre.

For memory you can get semi slicks in Toyo R1R, R888, and Hankook RS3.  Only Toyo's can be got here (indent only) and Hankook's are ex Australia if you could convince the importer to bring them in.  I couldn't.

Also, where are you from?  I could price the Toyo's but you'd have to come to me to get them if they're cheap enough as I won't sell outside my district.  I'm in Rotorua.

The small hose out of the power steering pump is the high pressure line, thus will go direct to the rack

The others are all low pressure return or suction, they can be hose clamed i prefer to use pushlock hose on the ones i do

Cool, thanks for that.  That means the hose I am wanting to do it the low pressure hose.  Is transmission hose suitable for this?

Yeah, I would definitely be interested to know.  I'll do some googling and see if I can find anything.  Thanks for your input!

Edit/// Holy shit... Maximum pressure on the power steering pump is 1251-1337 PSI according to the FSM... So that hose definitely won't do it.

Edit//// I'm pretty sure only one line is high pressure isn't it?  The line that is already in the car has proper crimped fittings, and the one I'm looking at replacing hose standard hose tails at each end...

Are the likes of the 400PSI rated Ultragrip hoses or 300PSI Instagrip not suitable if I can find a decent hose clamp?  Or is the hose rating something slightly different to what I'm assuming it is.

This is for my S12.  I've put a S14 steering rack into it, and am trying to find alternatives to the alloy line that runs under the engine along the crossmember for the power steering fluid.  Can I just complete swap this out for a reinforced rubber hose with some hose clamps at each end.  I'm pretty sure it is the low pressure hose.

I don't know enough about power steering and how it works to make this decision, so thought I'd ask you guys here.

I got the Tengtools Flaring kit for about $110.  It's basically a better version of the cheap kits.

Powerbuilt kit is rubbish.  All the etching inside the bit that holds the tube is almost non-existant so the tube slides through.

I'm guessing you mean, get a sheet of copper, lay it on what you are wanting to make the gasket out of, tap it with a ball pein hammer to get the shape embedded in the copper and then trim it to suit?

Your posts don't seem to make much sense?

I got BOP Gaskets in Tauranga to do me a copper turbo gasket once.  Cost about $35 including return freight, and about four days turn around.  I sent them my old one for them to copy.  I'd definitely use them again if I needed to.

Phone number is 07 5748740

http://yellow.co.nz/y/bop-gaskets

I did think about that but the 500 bucks put me off haha..

$500?

I can get them for $80 a pair plus freight.

I do agree with the above though.  It'd be much safer with wheels that fit better, or moving the centres inside the barrels.

They can be reversed.  You may lose the lip style if it's important though.

Easiest way to get 50mm spacers would be to bolt two 25mm spacers together.

27mm is the maximum thickness bolt on spacer you can get certified I think.  (Or it's for adaptor, and then 25mm is the thickest bolt on spacer.)

Moving the centres is the safest option.

I've used a couple of different vehicles for towing my old S14 (Around 1600-1700kg's by the time you put it on a trailer) to the Taupo race track.

2003 Ford Courier 2.5 turbo diesel, was OK.  Did the job but was gutless and so so too drive.

2003 Mitsubishi Canter. 2.8L non turbo diesel.  Gutless as f*ck but incredibly stable on the road, probably averaged 50kph from Rotorua to Taupo, and used a lot of diesel.

2007 Ford Ranger 3.0 turbo diesel.  2wd high rise.  Would recommend one of these any day.  Still had balls, was incredibly stable, never had any problems, and is now the only vehicle we have at work I'd consider using again.  It was reasonably efficient too.  Got to the Taupo race track and back with just under 3/4" fuel left.

Ahh fair enough.  That shroud you made is looking swish.

Looking good!!!

Was there a reason for mounting the intercooler with the inlet and outlet at the bottom.  Did you think of having it up the top so you could have shorter piping?

Added a new photo of it from yesterday with some new wheels on.