Advokit's 1983 Toyota Trueno AE85

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Not a huge update as I spent the weekend removing rust from the Mrs car. I did manage to get out the my mates workshop and go over some more plans for my motor.

Ill just leave this here.


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Another minor update - managed to score another set of MX73 front struts, hubs and calipers for a trade of some parts.

So I sent the calipers away to my man and he has re-kitted them so they are like new. Ill keep the other set as spares along the the struts incase I manage to bend or brake one at some stage.


Hopefully can get the calipers back on over the weekend and then move the car around so the back end can get some love.

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Ok so long time no update..... With winter kicking in and being on one income due to our baby girl there hasnt been too much done on the build in the last couple of months.

So the front calipers are all done - I need to source some decent brake pads that fit both the MX73 fronts and the MA45 rears. Ideally a street/track pad if I can find one, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I do have some Bendix Metal ones for the rear but it looks like the dont make them anymore.

Anyway my Bride recliner finally arrived from Japan so I have currently mocked it up in place to get a feel for where it needs to sit.


The NZKW rails I scored dont line up so I need to track down the adapters or look at making up some steel that bolts the two together. Anyone had experience bolting Bride Brix or older Bride bolt pattern to the NZKW rails?


So now its saving the coin to get the following:


- Rear wheel bearings

- T3 Diff rebuild kit

- Diff bearings

- Pay someone to set backlash etc


Then I can fit the diff and move to getting the Engine and box in there for a test fit. Happy days.

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Finally picked up my BC Gold rear springs on Friday. 4.5Kg to go with the adjusters, fitted up pretty good and nice and captive with the Bilsteins.

Looks like ill be able to wind up and down about 20mm or so if required which is pretty much perfect.


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Managed to spend a bit more time downstairs over the last few weeks! More progress.

Got rid of the unknown brand rear strut brace and picked up a Cusco one that matches the front one. Mounted it all up.


Also picked up some flat bar and made some adapters for the Bride to mount up to the NZKW rails. Sits mint. Would be ideal if I could get it lower but then I would have sliders - will do for now. 


Was supposed to have this thing going for a track day this October........ My how the time flies. Will be ordering diff parts soon once that is done will ship it to my mates workshop so it can be on the hoist for the fiddly shit.

Not quite where I had hoped to be this time last year, but hey progress is progress none the less.

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So its summer and time to get stuck into this thing again finally. Motor is now at home so I can spend more time mocking up waterlines etc in my spare time.

Stripped the loom back ready to remove unnecessary wiring and then splice into the AE85 loom. A mate is going to mod the ECU for me so that it can trigger the COP as wasted spark which means I can do away with the dizzy cap/rotor to save space.


Removed front and rear water outlets and rear thermostat ready to figure out a waterline path. Im still not entirely decided on a solution but I am now leaning towards running a bypass block on the back of the head, blocked of back outlet and external thermostat + modified front water neck. I still want to run a heater and the external is not only cheap but also easy to access. Also I think this solution with less piping means less potential failure points too.

Mocked up Thermostat and connection to back of water pump.


Also fitted up my extractors which are 16v ones so will require a couple of mods to make it bolt on, otherwise I am pretty happy with them. Might just give them a clean up and HPC coating?

Still figuring out how I am going to mount the COPs yet. Ideally id like to make something myself but may have to bite the bullet and buy a mounting plate..... I have seen a nut welded to the rocker cover but then again I have seen this kind of weld fail as well.


Havent had funds to sort out diff etc yet, so in the meantime I am working on what I can without spending any dollars. With some luck the engine should be in to start wiring it up in the next few weeks which is at least some good progress.

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So its been a while, lack of funds due to having both kids in day care has not been helping. Luckily one goes off to school in a month so that should help the cause.

So I now have a SQ water line rear bypass for the 20v, I know just need to make up a front/top outlet to replace the feed that used to go from the head to the water pump.


Also removed the 20v oil filter riser (uses 4/7afe oil filter union) so that the oil filter has better clearance.


Ended up selling my first pair of extractors as I managed to pick up a set that had the correct flange for my exhaust.


Also sold my OEM LSD as an opportunity to pick up a Cusco on popped up. Cusco RS 1-Way, if I am lucky it may be one of the ones that you can change between 1 or 2 way. Fingers crossed.


Picking up a Flywheel next week, so that and the top outlet are the last two parts before engine goes in for wiring. Should be getting a bonus this month also so may be able to get diff bearings, etc sorted and start putting diff back together finally.

This thing has to at least be running summer, watch this space.

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A bit more progress this week. LSD turned up a few weeks back but it had a broken shim, turns out the guy I purchased it off had two so he sent me the other one and I returned the original. The second one that turned up was a step up again, its still only a 1-way but its a full blown Cusco MZ version with some pretty awesome looking clutch plates. Searching around the web these are a pretty solid LSD so I am super stoked as I landed it for a fraction of the new RRP of close to $2000. 


So on arrival I stripped the LSD down and checked the condition of the clutch plates - they are pretty much brand new! I also checked the what the lockup was set to as the plates can be stacked in different configurations. Currently set to 100% lockup which I am assuming should be good for some Dorifto action. Next on the list is to send the LSD and my diff carrier up to Steely Gears and get him to set up with new bearings, solid pinion spacer etc. 


I have been looking out for velocity stacks for some time now. I looked pretty seriously at the SQ engineering ones as he is one of the few that do a solution longer than the standard 50-75mm long that are largely available. A couple of weeks ago I spotted a local company that does velocity stacks less the flange at 90mm long. I dropped in and had a looks, turns out they are correct diameter for the 20v and seeing as I am about to get a run of Ali laser cut why not add 4x 20v ITB flanges to the order. Good friend owes me a favour so ill get him to Tig the stacks onto the flanges and they will be good to go!

Test fit of trumpets. Looks pretty good to me.


Also while some mates were in Japan recently I got them to pick me up an HKB 25mm Boss kit spacer. Now my steering wheel wont be jamming me in the leg.

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Some great progress over the last few weeks.

J160 Gearbox and my flywheel are now up with Brendon aka Niteparts getting the front part of the bellhousing machined off to fit the adapter plate. Brendon is also making the necessary mods to the 3SGE starter and machining my flywheel.

I finally have a clutch too, managed to score an exceptional deal on an Exeedy HD setup. Its also the Silver HD type not the Pink one which I am told is better being made in Japan.

For any one that is doing a W series or J160 conversion and using 20v or smallport flywheel ie: 212mm you can use a 7K Liteace Van clutch kit. It has the same dimensions as AE111 kit but uses larger spline. (No need to get custom made clutch).

Codes below (Exeedy Part Numbers)

TYC549 Cover plate (same as AE101/AE111)

TYD034U disc - 212mm OD, 140 ID, 29.8mm x 21 tooth.

BRG2155 bearing (w series setup- J160 needs Niteparts CNC adapter and supplied bearing)

Kit codes:

TYK-7146 OEM Clutch kit

TYK-7146HD HD Clutch Kit

Have also got ITBs flanges all made up in Cad (Thanks Jordan!) plus the top water outlet also.



Just need to get Trumpets welded on to flanges and some pipe on the water outlet and then bolt flywheel, clutch and gearbox to motor!!!!!! Then in the hole it goes.

Target is to have it wired and started before Christmas - fingers crossed.

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Almost ready to fit flywheel, clutch and then gearbox. Spent some time today adding rear engine hook, modifying the 16v extractors and giving them a paint.




Clutch, flywheel and pressure plate with brand new pressure plate bolts. 






Fitted the SQ engineering blanking plate to the what is now the rear of the engine, this used to be the top outlet that went to radiator. 






Sealed and attached SQ engineering rear water bypass - also fitted the rear engine hook I pulled from the 3au before I sold it. Gives a bit more clearance, still not sure if the Dash temp sensor will fit. 






Finally got around to cutting out the shifter hole to make way for the J160. Im still thinking I may need to go back another 10-15mm but will wait till we fit engine and box. Would rather not cut too much out.





Modified 16v extractors, Im still in two minds about running washers on the ends like that. I think I may get someone to weld some extensions on to the flange so it bolts on better and looks less dodgy. 


Oh and Gearbox has been picked up from Brendan so its now all ready to bolt up, he also modified the 3SGE starter for me. Laser cut flange is being picked up tomorrow so all going well (and depending on engine crane availability) we could have an engine and box sitting in the car in the next week or so.

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My laser cut parts arrived today!


So I pressed the trumpets into the flanges and they look great.


Then I bolted them up to the motor. I need some nice new stainless bolts for them now, once motor goes in I will confirm length works and then get them tacked on to flanges.


Lastly just need small length of alloy tube to weld to the top water pipe flange and that part is done.

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So not a super exciting update but still progress none the less. Modified the alternator bracket today so that the top water outlet can exit above the alternator.  As always I ripped into it and forgot to take a before photo, basically took a semi circle out in the middle so a 32mm pipe will clear its way through. 
After some cutting and grinding - then add paint and re-fit. Looks factory ish. Can see the water pipe flange sitting in place. Also spot Trumpets now have cap screws.


I dont currently have any alloy pipe, so I mocked up basically where it will go so I can get the correct length and bends. ill probably get someone local to cut//bend and add a swage to a piece of 32mm alloy and the weld it to the flange. 





Things to do before motor goes in:


- Remove sump and re-seal windage tray

- Refit sump

- Fit flywheel, Clutch and Spigot Bearing

- Fit Gearbox


Not far now!

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More progress.


So before the motor goes in there were a few things that needed to be sorted out. Firstly I needed to get the water piping completed as it would be a nightmare to do this once the motor was in. I mocked up and made the top outlet out of Aluminium then got it welded up by a good mate. Then Sinco put some nice swages on the ends and added the bung for the radiator fan sender.




Pieces of top outlet. 





Ready to be welded.





The next step was to make some ITB filter screens, Jurbride make some but they are over $200 so that wasnt an option. So a $5 Sieve and some high temp rubber was acquired. 





Completed filter screens.





Lastly I had to fit up the external thermostat and top outlet, I also made up a bottom outlet that comes out near wear the bottom outlet is on the radiator. Note I also had to move the ICV down to make way for the heater outlet on the SQ rear bypass plate.


Now we are ready to bolt it all together and throw it in the hole!

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So yesterday was a glorious day as I finally got the engine in the car!!



Step one was bolting up the Niteparts adapter plate, the starter, flywheel and clutch etc. I hope the starter doesnt fail as I would now have to remove the gearbox to replace it. (I did test it worked before fitting). Totally forgot to take a photo with the Exeedy clutch in place.





Gearbox meet motor. 





Car assuming the position. 





After a lot of screwing about we had to drop the crossmember to get it to clear with the J160 attached. Managed to snap off the hose that comes out of the heater core so I will now need to strip the dash out again to repair replace that but im not bothered because the engine is in! My 90mm trumpets clear the smaller booster with ease, I can definitely go to 100mm ones if I decide to splash out and get some billet ones at some stage.  








I had to cut a bit more out to get the shifter in the correct position, its quite far back compared to the factory position - however I am pretty happy with where it sits as it lines up nicely with my wheel now that it has a hub spacer. I have to sit pretty far back to actually fit in the car (Im 6ft 4) so wheel and gearknob are in the perfect position for me. Ill have to mod the interior as it doesnt fit with the shifter in its new position, hopefully I can re-work it so it still looks factory-ish.



So just waiting for my end of year bonus to come through so I can purchase up all that is required to assemble the diff, Ill also need to make a gearbox crossmember.   Hopefully all of the wiring can be completed over the Christmas break so that come January I can get a driveshaft made up and get it started up!

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More progress! Picked up all required parts for the Diff rebuild, the only thing I didnt buy was the pinion crush tube as I will get a solid pinion spacer made up while the LSD gets swapped in and setup. 



Axle bearings, seals and wheel studs.  





Diff bearings and seal with new flange nut. 


Next step for the rear end is to get the centre etc up to Steely Gears to be setup, in the meantime Ill press the bearings and studs onto the axles.

Also on a positive note, test fitted the MA45 front driveshaft and it appears that the length is pretty much bang on! I need to jack up the car and double check the distance it is engaging the rear output spline but it feels like its around an inch from the end. So happy days, I may not need to get a driveshaft shortened and I amy be able to piece a good one together from the bits I have on hand.

Tomorrow we start mapping out the wiring and measure up for gearbox crossmember - its looking positive that 2016 is going to be the year this thing is going.

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So... Long time no update. Have still been working away but have not had time to post up anything for a while.

Finally got the Cusco LSD head installed and setup, I requested a solid pinion spacer rather than a crush tube which will hopefully hold up strength wise. Its super tight!



Then pressed the bearings onto the Axles and fitted it all up. Lastly before it went into the car I had to sort Brakes. 

I made the decision to sell my MA45 brakes and copy what they use on the N2 cars in japan, its using AE101 calipers and the handbrake cables clip straight up. 




Also picked up a short shifter for those gearbox shattering quick shifts.


So last weekend we towed it out to my mates place to start the wiring mission. This is the first time I have laid eyes on it from a decent angle and it looks pretty sweet!


Wiring mission has commenced. Plan is to run the AE111 Engine loom and use the AE111 relay and fuse box so it all looks factory. Will post pics once its mounted.


So I have a small list of stuff to sort out before it can be started.

- Mount Fuel Pump

- Sort Fuel Hoses

- Find Radiator Hoses

- Tidy up exhaust

- Mount seats properly

All going well I should be able to start this thing by the end of this week.

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What a week. Things have progressed quite quickly this week as we worked on the car most nights till midnight.

So it was a huge effort on the wiring front, AE111 relay/fuse box is mounted in the bay and everything plugged in as it should. Connected up DLI box to run the Coil on plug setup too. Thanks to Jordan for all his hard work here. Will post some pics when I have some decent lighting (ie: not midnight)



The extractors I had must have been modded for a Starlet or similar as output flange was fouling on floor. Thankfully I had Kelvin on hand to modify flange plus make exhaust go under diff and mount my Apexi muffler. 





Mounted the Fuel pump and pre filter, bent up some lines and ran wiring for pump. Did some fuel system tests, had a couple of leaks but just needed some tightening up. Im using the original breather line as main feed and main feed as return. The original return line is too tiny so may use it as a breather and keep charcoal canister up front to retain that 80s spec look. 





Fired it up and moved it outside under its own power!! almost 5 years of ownership and its finally running. 




So we took it for a quick drive to test everything out.  All I can say is Wow! it exceeds my expectations. Engine pulls nicely and 6 speed with 4.3 ratio keeps it on cam. Suspension feels great, tight but not harsh. Diff is super tight, can confirm it twin spins nicely. Also exhaust sounds pretty sweet, not too loud as I still want to hear the doorts from the bay. Brakes need some bedding in but pulls up really nice.


So a list of things to sort before track day:


- Fit doors

- Wrap all wiring 

- Mount ECU and DLI box

- Sort clearance of extractors to starter motor 

- Fit bonnet

- Fit trumpets and profit from all of the Doorts


Will post up some photos of wiring etc after I go out today.

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Did a bit more work today tidying up wiring. Still more to do but its starting to look pretty sweet. The AE111 fuse/relay box looks pretty factory too.


Threw the door and guards back on and took it for another doort up the road. Badly needs a wheel alignment.


So a few finshing touches and it should be all good for Taupo. Will post some vidoes up of test drives soon.

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So a crap load of hours went into this thing in the lead up to last weekend. I didnt document everything as it was full on trying get everything ready.

Finally got the trumpets tacked on to the flanges and tidied up engine bay as much as time would allow. Had to wrap the extractors as they are way too close to the starter motor and under bonnet temps were getting pretty high.


Turns out my Japan spec tyres on my rims were dodgy and one blew out during a spirited test drive. So Jordan lent me his Longchamps and I threw my tyres on. Great thing is I now know that 7" on the front and 7.5" on the back is pretty much perfect.


Took it for a wheel alignment and setup as per what I though would be the best spec for a track grip session. Its running -1 Camber, +3.5 Caster and .5 Toe out each side.


Thanks again to Jordan and Kelvin for helping me out getting it all ready!

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