Matt's Rotary Anglia

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More progress, I took last Wednesday off work and also had a half day in the garage today so got a bit more done, the tunnel is now all welded in, it came up pretty good I reckon, I was thinking that I might need a bit of bog to smooth it where the tunnel meets the firewall but it is pretty good as is.

Anyway here are some pics, and these are the last ones of the tunnel I promise




Then it was on to the rust, the bottom corner that I found the other day is pretty far gone, I kind of expected this as Anglias are prone to rusting out here so I wasn't surprised to find that it was a bit worse than it looked, anyway it's all fixable, just going to take a bit longer.



And it doesn't help that over the course of the last week I first blew up my drill, then my die grinder crapped out and finally today my powerfile (which is my favourite tool) started making massive popping noises and smelling like burnt plastic so I am thinking it is done.

I had been saving some money to buy something cool for the car but now it looks like it will have to be spent replacing tools.

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More progress, I have repaired the rusted out corner, I ended up taking out a bit more steel to find something solid and there were 3 different sections that meet in that corner and all 3 were pretty much done so it took a bit longer to fix but it is all sorted now.


Then it was on to sorting the gearbox mounts, I think I may have mentioned previously that I am using the Anglia gearbox mount which almost bolted straight up to the rx7 gearbox, the hole centers were only a few mm out so I slotted the holes in the mount and it bolted straight on, then when I was setting up the position of the motor and gearbox I found that I could use 2 of the 4 mount holes so to do the other 2 I Cut a section out of the floor so I could get down into the chassis rails and then made up some mounts that were the same as the existing Anglia ones


I just need to weld some nuts to them and then I can put them inside the chassis rails and weld the floor section back in.

I also started modifying the handbrake mount to allow it to sit 150mm further back, I have to trim it to fit the tunnel as the area it sits now is a bit narrower then where it was sitting.

The good news is that I am almost done with the little bits and pieces now so I will soon be able to start putting it all back together.

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Ok so it was a bit of an interesting weekend on the car, I had the cert man come round on Saturday to look at the work I had done and make sure it was going to be all good for me to put it back together. The result of that was kind of mixed really, basically he was happy with all the mods that I have done to the body and everything relating to mounting the motor so that was all pretty cool. There are a bunch of things relating to bits that I thought were finished that I am going to have to sort out though so that was a bit disappointing.

The worst of it is that the hubs and axles that I had re-drilled to change the stud pattern aren't going to be any good, when they re-pitched the holes they have placed them right beside the old ones instead of going halfway between them so there isn't a lot of metal left between them. This is a bit of a piss off because rather then do it myself or get someone at work to do it I paid to have it done by people who do this sort of thing all the time. It is the same deal with the axles but they are a bit worse as there isn't enough room to space them like that as there are some other holes that get in the way. The other thing is the calliper mount that is welded to the diff has been mig welded instead of tig welded (I should have known that so can't blame anyone else for that one) and where it is welded to the end of the axle is actually a cast end so yeah I pretty much fucked that one up.

So what it means now is that I am going to have to re-do the rear brake mounts (might do a bolt on arrangement this time) and figure out a plan for the axles, luckily I have been hoarding parts for a while and have spares.....

Oh yeah, I also need to decide whether or not to go for a motorsport authority card as I would need it to run a cage and the harnesses and also to have the race seats in a fixed position rather then on adjustable rails, so I will have to make some enquiries this week and figure out what it is likely to cost

So I guess the positive is that there is nothing stopping me from putting it back together so I thought I would get on with it. First job mount the radiator, all I had to do was drill 4 holes and trim a bit of sheet metal back along the top at the front. So out comes the grinder and I rip into it, the first thing I notice is that the metal seems pretty thick, I thought there was only 2 layers at this point but as I grind it back I see 3 and one of them seems pretty thick, then when I go to drill the holes I mark them out and when I go to centre punch the hole a big hunk of bog falls out. So I start stripping it all back and find a bunch of patches placed nicely over the top of rust holes then bogged up to make it look nice. Bugger, so both sides are pretty rotten and patched and it is all going to have to be cut out and fixed, there is some weirdness where the bonnet hinge attaches that I knew I was going to have to deal with at some stage, I just didn't think it was going to be so soon.

And here was me thinking that I had run out of things to weld.....

Anyway some pics

Patch on the LHS


Patch on the RHS


Patch on the top and the damage and rust on the hinge mount

And what needed to be removed


At this stage I called it a day, it has been one of those weekends, not sure if it counts as progress as it seems like I have taken a backwards step.

Looks like it might be time to put in another leave form......

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I thought I would post some more details about the suspension and steering setup that I have used in case anyone is interested. When I started this project I read all I could on what was the best way to go about getting discs onto the front and the popular choice in the UK is to use MK2 Cortina stuff as the geometry is supposed to line up pretty closely to the Anglia. There are some downsides though, if you use the MK2 struts then you need to also use the MK2 steering arms and the MK2 TCA's and with it all fitted (which it does pretty easily) you end up with quite a lot of positive camber on the front wheels, I corrected this by going to adjustable camber plates on the top and at the same time converting the struts to coilovers (the MK2 springs are too big to fit into the Anglia strut towers anyway so at very least you have to go for a smaller diameter spring) the next issue is that the MK2 steering arms are a bit longer then the Anglia ones and this reduces the steering lock quite a bit, makes turning the car round in the drive by hand a pain in the ass that's for sure!

The solution in the UK is to buy some custom fabricated steering arms from a company called Milton who specialize in Anglia parts however I couldn't get a straight answer from anyone as to whether or not they would actually be up to NZ certification standards (the guy I spoke to at Milton actually told me that he didn't think that they would be ok) and so in the end I figured it was worth buying some and seeing for myself if they would pass. When I got them it became pretty obvious that they weren't going to pass so I took them to the local cert guy to check and also to figure out what the best solution was going to be. What I decided to do was to get some machined out of solid which would then be acceptable, only problem then was that according to the hot rod manual custom steering arms need to be 16mm thick and at 16mm the tie rod ends wouldn't have enough length on them so given that the car is so light we decided to send a drawing off to LVVTA with the thickness at 12mm and included one of the Milton arms as a reference for what I was planning and see what they said.

They came back a week or so ago and said that they wanted them to be 16mm thick but I could counterbore the hole where the tie rod mounts to allow me to use the Anglia tie rods, however I thought it was worth a call to Graeme at Enford and he put me onto some Zephyr tie rod ends that have the same thread on the body as the Anglia ones but are conveniently 4mm longer.

So the plan is to machine up some custom arms that put the steering arm length back to the same as the Anglia ones, change the outer tie rod ends for the Zephyr ones and that should be all sorted. Just to make sure that I hadn't missed anything I also modelled up the front end geometry in Solidworks so I could check the ackerman as well so now they are good to go. I have a CNC machinist lined up so hopefully I will have a shiny new set of steering arms in the next couple of weeks.

Anyway here are some pics

This is the modified MK2 Cortina struts, I had the camber plates machined at work


I have already posted pics of the TCA's and with the camber adjusted almost as far in as it will go I can get the front wheels aligned (no massive negative camber for me though...)

and here is a comparison pic of the steering arms, the Anglia one is at the bottom then the MK2 Cortina one in the middle and the Milton arm at the top


and here are a couple of shots of the Milton arm



Interestingly in the first pic you can see that the Tig weld has cracked almost completely through, I don't think that this weld was ever intended to do anything other than hold the pieces together while the bottom is welded but it isn't a good look.

So that's about it really, hopefully this is of some use if anyone is thinking about running MK2 Cortina suspension in their Anglia.

In other news I got some more work done on my car today but it was dark by the time I got finished so didn't get any pics, I will take some tomorrow

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Some progress on the rear brakes

here are the old axles that I had redrilled


The problem is the big holes on the flange that are so you can undo the axle retainer bolts, because of the position of these I can't redrill the Anglia axles to 4 x 114.3, I have been told that there isn't enough metal between the old stud holes and the new ones, you can also see how close the new suds get to the edge of the flange which is also not going to pass, made worse because I had the od of the flange turned down to suit the discs.

So this was kind of a major, basically the wheels that I have are not going to work, I have looked at all the different possible ways to solve this, adaptors and different offset wheels, custom axles etc. and what I came up with is that I am going to have to keep the 4 x 108 stud pattern. So that sucks but it is what it is so I just have to deal with it. Anyway Koya offer custom drilling and offsets on their wheels so it looks like that is the way I will go. The other thing was that the wheels don't have any load ratings on them (this is probably the one thing that I really have issues with) apparently LVVTA are clamping down on wheels as there have been a couple of cases where rims have come apart on the road recently. So factoring in that as well changing wheels just makes sense, shame though, I really liked those wheels.

The next issue is that I welded the caliper mounts onto the end of the diff housing and they reckon that it is a cast item (plus it was MIG welded) here is the mount. The solution is to have bolt on caliper mounts that pick up on the axle retaining bolts.

Here is how I had done it.


the mount sits about 20mm back from where the studs go through and where the new bolt on bracket will need to attach, I went through a bunch of disc brake catalogues to find a rotor that had 4 x 108 holes and the shortest distance between the rotor face and the mounting face to try and minimize this and keep the bracket as flat as possible and the best I could do was a fiesta disc out of the UK, it gets the offset back to about 8mm with the S13 Silvia calipers that I have.

Anyway thanks to the fact that I am a parts hoarder I had a spare set of axles so these were turned down to suit the new discs


Then I went to cut the old welded mounts off the diff and the more I cut the more I thought it was a bad idea, I figured I could grind them back but it was going to take ages as there was hardly any room for the grinder and the chance of going to far and wrecking the housing was quite high, so I grabbed another housing and I will use that one and just add the brackets for the shocks etc.

Here is the disc and caliper on the diff


and this is the offset between the caliper mount and the face where the bracket will sit


Interestingly (well I found it interesting), this housing has bolts retaining the axles and the other one had studs pressed in, I am guessing the stud type is earlier as I think that diff housing was out of a 1960 model and the blue one is from a 67.

So this week I will try and get this mount bracket sorted, I need to figure out if I should go with a bent bit of plate or machine down a thicker plate to get the offset.

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Also here is how the front hubs were done


I don't know why they weren't pitched halfway between the old ones, the shop that did them specialize in this sort of thing so I just assumed that they would be ok.

The other thing I did was re-do the driveshaft loop, the one I did to suit the type 9 was for a much smaller tunnel so I just grabbed one of those universal (yeah right!) kits then chopped it up to make it fit.


I have fitted it to the car so that's another job done.

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The last week or so has been a bit quiet as I have been waiting on bits to arrive, the rear caliper mounts are being gascut and I have been gathering bits to make up the new crossmember. I thought I would put up some pics of what I have been working on though. SO I have been told that because my front suspension is a jumble of Anglia, Mk2 Cortina and custom made parts that I will need to do a bumpsteer test as part of the cert process which is fine but there was one thing that made me nervous and that is the steering arms that I bought out of the UK, now these are supposed to correct the steering geometry with the Mk2 stuff so I thought to be on the safe side I would model up the Anglia suspension and check to make sure that it is all good. So I took a bunch of measurements and put it into Solidworks so I could move the suspension and see how it reacted and actually get some proper measurements relating to bumpsteer.

This is what I came up with


straight away It was looking like there was going to be a problem with all this, I was getting something like 3 degrees of toe change over 100mm of suspension travel, which is quite a bit, anyway there is no way that it was going to pass with that so the steering arms got put on hold until I get to the bottom of this.

I had a read through of the technical bulletins from LVVTA relating to the bumpsteer test and found some really useful info in there pointing to the fact that the tie rods might be too low. One thing though, it did get me doubting whether I had my model correct, I was thinking that maybe if I had taken some measurements incorrectly then this could be throwing off the whole thing.

So as a check I then modeled up the standard Anglia suspension to see how that compared and it was all good, basically no toe change over the same 100mm of travel. So it now looks like I might be correct that the tie rods will end up sitting too low

here are some pics to show what I mean

Standard Anglia


My setup


In the top pic the dashed lines representing the TCA's and Tie rods (the ones that angle down towards the bottom of the strut) are basically parallel, in the bottom pic they are not and I am pretty sure this is the problem.

Now I am no expert my any means so if anyone out there has a different interpretation then I would be keen to hear it.

Something that I noticed that I think may be giving this problem is that the Anglia steering arm is a lot thinner than the custom ones I have so the connection point for the tie rod sits much higher, also these custom ones have the tie rod connection coming off about halfway down the body which also isn't helping, and finally the fact that they need to be 16mm thick is also a problem. What I need to do is move the whole arrangement up and there are a couple of ways that I can do that with the most obvious being to make them out of thicker plate and machine a step between the strut mount face and the top of the tie rod connection point.

Anyway I haven't got it sorted yet but at least I know what I have to do (I think...)

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Got the mounts onto the diff housing for the shocks and brake lines over the weekend, would have had the diff assembled and back in the car but ripped the gasket for the diff head so will order another one and try and have it in by the end of the week.



Also got most of the bits for the new crossmember made, just a few more things to do on that and I will weld it up

I also got the last couple of dimensions that I needed for the steering arms so I have finished off the design of them



And I have a guy at work who will 3D print them for me so I can get them mocked up in the car and check the bump steer before I get them machined. Not sure how long that will be, I am hoping to have them this week. Then I can see if I do understand this whole steering geometry thing.....

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I haven't updated this for a few weeks but there has been quite a bit happening in the background, my rear calliper mounts have been made, they are getting a small bit of machining done but I should have them back this week, my 3D printed steering arms have also been done and are due to arrive in the next couple of days but this is a picture of them


I have a plan for checking the amount of toe change which I will work through once they arrive.

I have also made new engine mounts and a new crossmember that sits a bit higher


And how it will sit

I have test fitted it and it is all looking good so I will get some paint on it then get it all mounted up

and finally I had some new wheels arrive


old one on the left, new one on the right they are Koya BN-Teks, pretty much look identical to the ones I had but without all the bolts. So these ones have a load rating on them so are good for cert. Bit of a shame that I can't use the old ones but there were some other issues around those anyway which these fix as well.

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Ok more progress from today, I got my calliper mounts back last week, this is how they ended up


There was a bit of mucking around getting the step machined as I had a couple of goes to get it right, didn't want to take too much off, then I got some 5/16" threaded rod and cut it up to make some studs for mounting the brackets to the diff, the mount holes in the diff are tapped so the threaded rod is screwed through then I have nuts on one side to hold the calliper mounts and on the other side for the axle retaining flanges.


Once that was done it was a simple job to fit up all the lines etc


I just want to make up a couple of tags to hold the bundy tube, I will do that this week then the diff can go back in.

Then next job was to get the crossmember all mounted up, I used urethane bushes in the end but now I am wondering if they are going to be a bit hard, there isn't much movement in the mounts so it is probably going to be a shakey ride when the car is sitting at idle pulsing away, ahh well I guess I can change to rubber mounts if it is too bad, or more likely just not even worry about it, anyway here are some pics of the crossmember in position.

From the bottom


and from the top


don't look too closely at the paint job, it is pretty rough....

So once I get the diff in I will start on the wheel alighnment and checking the bump steer, Fletch had suggested using a cheap laser pointer to set it up and measure the bump steer and the more I thought about this the more I liked it so I bought 2 and will build a little rig this week that will allow me to set both the alignment and the bump steer.

And just to finish off here is another shot of my prototype steering arms, they are pretty cool, 3D printing is awesome.


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Some more progress from the weekend, I needed to do some tests on the plastic steering arms to make sure they are right before I get them machined. First up I bolted the arms in place


Then I made these


I bought some cheap laser pointers and mounted them to a bit of SHS, it is hard to see in the photo but one of the clamp plates holding the laser is bolted so I can adjust it and get the laser pointing parallel to the mounting face. I only made 2 of them so I have to do each side of the car separately, so one gets bolted to the rear hub


and the other to the front, then I put a board out the front of the car to shine the lasers onto then I can just measure the distance between them, well that's the theory anyway. So first I set the alignment by making sure the distance between the dots was the same at the front hub and on the board which was about 3m in front of the car. Next I pulled the springs out of the front suspension and measured the distance between the dots at ride height, max compression, and max droop.


Then with a bit of trigonometry I can work out what the angle change is, seems to work ok, in that last photo you can see the marks I made at the 3 measured suspension heights. the arms are pretty good but I am getting toe out as the suspension changes and I think it would be better if it was going to be going the other way (toe in) so I have some fine tuning to do. I ran out of time yesterday to get it finished so will hit it again after work today.

I also had this turn up last week


After leaving my $20 cage in the car for the last month or so I decided that I would put one in but seeing as it is a bit of work to do figured that I should start with one that was up to spec. Anyway it is a fair way down the priority list at the moment but I will get to it eventually.

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Got a bit more done over the weekend, first up I reinforced the chassis rails where the engine crossmember mounts up, I folded up some plates and made up some crush tubes


then welded it all into place


A bit of paint and it can go back together


Then I put the front suspension back together, ne steering arms in


New hubs fitted up


And all the brake lines etc connected


You can see how much I have had to offset the strut tops in that photo to get the camber right, that just gets it back to zero (or thereabouts) so no massive negative camber for me.....

I aligned the wheels as well and checked the amount of bump steer I was getting as well to make sure nothing had gone amiss between my prototype steering arms and the finished ones and it is all looking pretty good, hopefully the cert man will agree.

And the last job was to put the radiator back in, I made up some mounts a while back to attach the 2 x 10" fans that I hope will keep it cool but I hadn't painted them or anything so I welded some nuts to them to make my life easier if I ever have to take them off and gave them a quick paint.


I had hoped to get the radiator back in but sometime between taking the radiator out of the other shell and putting it into this one I have managed to lose all the bolts so I will get some more tomorrow and get it all mounted up.

Oh yeah and one last thing, this photo shows a water pipe that sits at the back of the motor, it is the take off for the turbo I think and when the motor was stripped I didn't block it off, problem is now I want to so if anyone has any suggestions for a neater solution than a bit of hose with a bolt in the end I would be keen to hear it.



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more progress from the last few weeks, I finally got the radiator in, turned into a bigger job than I had expected but it is all mounted all that is missing is the hose clamps for the radiator hoses that I know I have put somewhere in my stupidly small garage, you would think a small garage would make it easier to find things.....




The engine bay is looking pretty full now, which will be the next problem, finding some space for the coils.

The other thing I did was sort out an accelerator cable, I got one from a Toyota something that matched the pedal I had then cut it down and got a new end put on it, then tidied up the way it comes out into the engine bay using a rubber grommet thing that I got from Basis, can't remember what it is off or anything, just saw a picture and figured that it might work.



the bracket on the carb was from Weber Specialties, it is a pretty cool setup, I put a double return spring setup on but I think the outer spring is a bit heavy, makes the pedal a bit heavy and I imagine will make low speeds a bit tricky.

I have also been working on the back part of the exhaust and the fuel and brake lines, the ones I made when the crossflow was in don't fit quite right as now the tunnel is so much bigger so I have had to tweak them a bit, I am going to try and get that finished this weekend though, it would be nice to have it back on it's wheels.

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managed a couple more hours in the garage today so got some more things done

First up was the coils, I made this bracket a while back when I was going to mount the coils on the side of the motor but when I put the oil cooler thermostat in they wouldn't fit any more, however the bracket was about perfect for mounting the coils to the inner wing so I went with that.

Coil bracket


and coils fitted



A while back I bought a fan controller as I wanted to have the fans turn on automatically, I bought one of these from Summit Racing


thing is it is such an ugly switch and the wire to the temperature probe isn't long enough to fit under the dash so after a bit of head scratching I decided to mount it up the front behind the radiator support panel.



And as I was uploading this photo I noticed the rust hole to the right of the control knob, I am a bit gutted about that, can't believe I missed it.....

Anyway the last thing for today was to get the wheels back on, I am hoping that tomorrow if I get the brake and fuel lines finished then I can drop it off the stands and roll it out for some decent pictures, but for now this will have to do


I still prefer the old wheels

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Fuel line done, brake line done, battery cable almost done.

Figured the thing to do next was to get it out of the garage and get some pics to help with my motivation






and this is how the bonnet sits if I leave the current filter on, it actually sits a bit lower as it wasn't pushed down all the way. The back of the filter just sticks out above the bonnet when it is down.


I am still undecided if I will go this way or put a shorter filter on and have it sit under the bonnet

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After going back and forth over the filter I decided to go with a shorter one and keep it all under the bonnet so I ordered a 3.5" tall one. The big advantage of this for me at the moment is that I can just put the old bonnet back on without modifying it or having to repair and repaint the one that I have already cut, so I can spend the time finishing up some of the other jobs.

New filter fitted


and with the bonnet back on


Now I figured it was time to get the roll cage fitted, I actually need this to pick up the upper seatbelt mount as the existing mount is too low for the race seats and the original seats don't fit anymore as the tunnel is so much wider (I was thinking of just fitting the old ones once again to try and speed things up and get it on the road) anyway there were some other options to get around the height of the seats but I was going to fit the cage anyway and that solves the problem.

first up the main hoop, oh yeah and to complicate things a little more I decided to make the cage removable for later on if I want to do the interior etc.

So after lots of measuring and cutting and trimming I got the main hoop in




next up is the rear stays which are going to tie into the wheel tubs, these are a little tricky as they are curved and I didn't have a bender that would do 3mm, but I do have a shop press (one of those little ones from supercheap that I got on special) so I made this


which goes in the press along with a bit of flat bar like this


So now I can bend 3mm plate, it is going to take some time to get the curve to match so that is my job for the week

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