bsp Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 From the people who brought you the 4ag escort http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=17192 and the hayabusa starlet http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=17181 behold the latest project from the bigstickerperformance garage..... 1969 KE10 Corolla 3rd owner,with what I believe to be 94000km on the clock It is Completely original,the first owner kept blankets on the seats from new,interior is PERFECT will get pics up soon The 2nd owner had it for a year or 2 but didnt drive it much,kept in a garage It has the factory optioned headrests and all the badges,e.g the ami badges and the racv (australia) tag on the grill My bro (toyabusa) had this 4k stitting around since the upgrade to the busa motor and it wasnt worth selling having had soo much work done.We were going to put it in the blue ke20 but since found this mint ke10.Drove it about 50km (nearly fell asleep at the wheel between gear changes) then got to work! motor specs are pretty straightforward: standard bore,still 1298cc!! (in order to compete in the 1300cc rally class) crazyport head with big valves and springs 12:1 comp cam,not terribly lumpy,was designed to keep a broad torque curve to suit rallying rather than just outright power shotpeened and linished rods,factory pistons de burred crank modded oil pump,runs 70+psi efi hardware 48mm throttle bodies rb20 injectors mitsi ignitor and coil lumenition optical pickup in the dissy link ems 4-1 extractors(for now) 2.25" exhaust has made 70rwkw at 8200rpm (over double the factory figure ) Before throwing it in the car the bearings had to be checked.The motor had done 2 years worth of rally events and it got punished,sitting on the rev limiter at 8200rpm between corners etc mains the wear pattern was a surprise but after checking the clearance with plastiguage the new bearings had a similar marking (only less) before the engine had even turned..... bigends pretty amazing how clean the motor was,this is how it looked without any cleaning first,2 years of racing on dirt with regular oil changes,mobil 1 full synthetic from day 1,must be good? engine all ready to go time to get rid of the dirty old k motor quick clean up of the bay test fit this is the difference in postion of the mounts after uprighting the motor and getting it sitting down and back as much as possible had to upright the motor to get room for the mainifold working out what clutch/flywheel combo to use to get the early ke10 box to bolt up to the 4k.The 4k flywheel was prefered because that was part of the package,has been balanced and engine was tuned with that on it etc etc,the only difference dimension wise is the ringgear is about 3mm offset,should still line up with the sarter plenty Ended up using the 4k flywheel and pressure plate with the original (lol) ke10 clutch plate,it has a tiny spline compared to the later k series boxes.....fingers crossed.... job done bro gettting technical with some fancy instrument/tool? fast alternator for extra powers dog leg the stick due to the uprightness of the new motor, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsp Posted April 30, 2011 Author Share Posted April 30, 2011 next mission was putting the engine loom in,orked out pretty good cause I managed to avoid cutting into the factory loom at al.Just had to connect up a ignition feed and the charge light from the new alternator,that was the hardest part cause the old regulator was playing games and making the light stay on once the regulaor was in the bin it was mint Now have a solid 14.5v at idle mounted the fuel pump under the boot to keep it hidden and noise down,plus there wont be any terrible fuel smell in the car 24/7 like the escort haha Runs a vl pump,pre filter throgh to a efi filter then into 5/16 bundy tubeup to the front Had to run a new line cause the early rolla doesnt have a return to the tank got lucky with the outlet,had the tank out ready to take and get welded but found it had a threaded bung in the bottom,got a speedflow fitting to just screw in - easy! machined the fitting and put a short piece of tube inside so that the pickup was a few mm off the bottom of the tank,stop shit getting sucked in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsp Posted April 30, 2011 Author Share Posted April 30, 2011 The bro got to work on the radiator and found the outlets were playing games aswell. neither of us have tigged before so after some heated discussion I convinced him to cut the radiator up and have a go,(its his radiator anyway...... not bad for first attempt ay??? no leaks ftw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsp Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 SLOW ALSO SLOW FAST SLOW FAST Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsp Posted May 8, 2011 Author Share Posted May 8, 2011 next up we had to make the old dirty extractors off the 5k fit cause we forgot to send the proper hand made 4-2-1's over was a mish due to the motor having an adaptor/port extension plate for the weber manfold,the bolt pattern was different and the flange didnt have enough meat on it to redrill once we got them bolted up the inlets were hitting on them!! so had to do a bit of dodgy clearencing with the grinder ans hammer for now they will be replaced later with the proper ones with larger primaries etc nearly done,just had to do the wiring and battery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsp Posted May 8, 2011 Author Share Posted May 8, 2011 its all running now but the tune isnt 100% mainly due to the fact the regulator we used isnt the one the motor was originally tuned with and the extractors are seriously shit compared to what it used to have. Im just waiting on my air/fuel meter to arrive and we are going to play round and do a bit of tuning the last time it was dynoed it made 70rwkw on 98 it gets along pretty well in the rolla especially with the 69 spec suspension drums all round too,trackday should be hilarious Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsp Posted May 16, 2011 Author Share Posted May 16, 2011 second startup,only had the extractors on it here V1qGHshgOPo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsp Posted May 16, 2011 Author Share Posted May 16, 2011 purchased an innovate a/f meter the other day,pretty happy with it mounted it about a foot from the extractor flange had some dramas with it reading hell lean but after reading the manual turns out it is VERY sensitive to exhaust leaks. Had to pull all the manifolds off to repair the extractor flange cause it had a nice curve in it and was leaking. first run with it all sorted showed full load/revs its running high 10 afr lol and idling at 11-12,cruise was 11-12 also best to have been safe than sorry thou got 18litres per hundy on the first tank oh and here is a pic of the ports while I had the manifold off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsp Posted May 16, 2011 Author Share Posted May 16, 2011 earlier in the week I decided to have a go at fixing the leaky heater core.i reckon it started cause of the cap on the alloy radiator actually holding some pressure as opposed to the dodgy original one. Spent a couple hours mucking around with solder and the oxy trying to chase all the tiny pin holes some were only visible once i put 15psi into it. had it sitting in the bucket for half an hour or so at 15psi and it looked mint, soo lush driving to work at 630am now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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