phr34kr Posted October 25, 2010 Author Share Posted October 25, 2010 Started having a good look at the body and noticed that the inner sill had started splitting and after having a short poke around there was a couple of handfuls of rust on the ground, Being a fiberglass bodied car they don't rust but they have steel fiberglassed into certain areas to help with rigidity. So i spent most of yesterday attempting to remove the steel, its turning out to be a lot harder than i imagined as i can not get any tool into the top of the inner sill to cut out the fiberglass so have had to resort to prying/ripping it out bit by bit. The body is off the chassis so it makes access a bit better but still has fuck all room in there. the end bit of one of the sections the end brace bit is exposed so there was no hope for it not rusting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phr34kr Posted November 13, 2010 Author Share Posted November 13, 2010 okay so did a bit of work on it today i have exams coming up but i think studying through the week cars etc on weekends is fair enough, anyway i got the dremel out and attacked the inner sills the drivers side took about 45 minutes but luckily the left passengers side was a lot easier as the steel had been glassed in, in a different way. reliant has been taking lessons form UncleJake i think... as you can see these steel supports are gone, i think taking the time to cut them out and replace with new ones will be worth it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phr34kr Posted November 14, 2010 Author Share Posted November 14, 2010 Took the dash out today wasted a lot of my time attempting to find screws holding the crash pad on that are mentioned in workshop manual but not included in diagrams (turns out they don't exist reliant used double sided tape from factory) decided to leave the crash pad in for now and take the face of the dash off to check out the wiring. there is a lot of wiring for such a simple car but ill hopefully be able to simplify this hugely. its no wonder the dash cracks around the gauges a flimsy plastic face is holding all the weight of the gauges and just sits on top of a ~8mm glass fiber back plate, i would have at least thought they would have used it to support some weight, but no. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phr34kr Posted April 23, 2011 Author Share Posted April 23, 2011 So not much has happened in a while i have taken all of the loom out of the car and now started on the body work. Fiberglass bodies are great for withstanding harsh environments however they are a pain in the ass to paint, its times like these I wish that I could have a steel bodied car, and just splash some paint stripper around/ crack out the orbital sander. I hate sanding and for lolz have to stay hydrated home brew feijoa cider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phr34kr Posted April 25, 2011 Author Share Posted April 25, 2011 Brought some alloys today same size/offset as standard rims but lest rusty chrome and more polish-able Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phr34kr Posted May 8, 2011 Author Share Posted May 8, 2011 Got given a pair of these will probably cut the turned down end off and run them at the rear, using my old rear resonators up the front, they are probably far too big of a diameter for the engine but hey they were free Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phr34kr Posted March 11, 2013 Author Share Posted March 11, 2013 So as of today i have a running, WOF+Reg'd 1975 reliant scimitar SE5a. Okay so its in primer but that should be sorted soon. It is also an entirely different car. Brought this one as I really don't have the space to work on more than one project and have decided to focus on the SS1 with the CA18DET conversion. Got this car in the weekend with an expired WOF but still had running rego. All the standard parts are there, Bumpers will be going on after i get it painted, and rear lights will be converted back to factory. Flew though the WOF today so should be able to attend the burgerfuel meets in it. Paint wise im going to the painting this in Plasti Dip paint, its a ruberised paint that sprays on sets in a matte slightly textured fashion but the best part is that it will seal the primer, flex with the fiberglass (no crazy-cracks Yay) and if at any point i dont like it anymore it will peel off like vinyl. Gunmetal grey, tested on a spare ss1 panel. Thinking gunmetal body with matte black bumpers, trim and wheel highlights. http://oldschool.co....ar/page__st__40 also selling up the first scimitar in parts with the complete rolling drivetrain from the chopped scimitar, second white body. Keeping the 4spd non overdrive conversion.- gearbox bellhousing pedal box diff clutch cable everything else is for sale (inc 2nd 3.0ltr essex) so thats; 1 complete rolling drive train with 4spd overdrive and 3.0 essex wheels etc. 2 bodys 2 sets of upholstery 1 set of glass and rear hatch (negotiable for 2 sets) 1 set of bumpers (again negotiable on a 2nd set) 1 spare essex engine 1 set of instruments dash etc. 1 bare chassis 1 set of front suspension (some assembly required) 2 sets of lights bits and pieces of exhaust $2200 for the lot. PM me to ask questions more than welcome to come and view (central Auckland) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest phr34kr Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 Got the bumpers painted in plasti dip black today, rear is on fronts should be done this weekend, attempted them today but the mounting points are a PITA to reach. Looking tidier Also had some exhaust work done, when I brought it an old owner had put motorbike rear mufflers on it that had piddly 1" outlets, didn't really cut it for the v6, Now has 2" resonators at the rear and had the whole system tucked up closer to the body so that it doesnt get bashed around so much. Old state for reference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest phr34kr Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 Lowered the rear by a few inches, put a spare set of front coil-overs in the rear as they are shorter, they are also stiffer but that hasn't seemed to be a problem for others. however this makes the nose appear higher than the back so im going to attempt a trick where you invert the lower wishbones and swap them side-side to achieve a free 1" drop in the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest phr34kr Posted March 16, 2013 Share Posted March 16, 2013 Front lowered yesterday. looks a lot better now. Slammed the front bumpers on quickly, their a little crooked but tidy up the front heaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest phr34kr Posted March 16, 2013 Share Posted March 16, 2013 So the suspension settled a little bit Not bad for standard springs and shocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phr34kr Posted November 6, 2013 Author Share Posted November 6, 2013 So this thing got spray bombed matte black a while back, turned out rather well considering existing condition. Paints a little thin but easy enough to patch up if it gets scraped. Then it broke down on me when i was using it to try tow a car a brought that was not running home. Turned out to be the condenser, easy fix once i narrowed it down, replaced it re-timed it and now its sweet. Took it for a good run out to Piha on Saturday, its a lot of fun in the twisty stuff but real loose with the old tyres on it. Thinking about widening a pair of std rims for the rear an extra inch of dish should look sweet. But finally sorted a decent welder so want to get stuck into the SS1 over the summer and get the chassis rebuilt for that. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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