e30-323ti

Lucky bugger!!

Personally, I go for 16x8" BMW 'Style 5' off an E38 7er, with a good bit of LOW to boot.

As for the harness bar,checked the rules, and the harness bar doesnt have to be on the main hoop, it can be anywhere on the rear stays, so we just made it right at the bottom of the rear stays, so it also doubles as a strut bar/brace.

Ah yes, there it is in the shadows, my bad.

Great work.

Liking the 'battleship' grey, might have to borrow that for the interior of my E30.

One Q'  where is the harness bar? Or was the cage homologated before you needed one?

If you match the piston sectional area to the calipers you are replacing, you won't need to mess with the master cylinder sizing.

If you like the balance how it is, keep the piston proportions as they are (calipers & MC's).

Wilwood do the the 'same' calipers with various piston sizes, so you should be able to find something that suits.

Yup Gull Hamilton has E10 an E85 on pump i believe

Yea E85 is legit on the road, just needs to be rolled out in more places that the tron....

So if you are in Wellington, you're probably not getting it from the pump, so is the source 'legit'.....

If you're getting it 'by the barrell' for a track only car say, why would you want to be paying all the road tax, I would think it is sold in that manner with a disclaimer about 'not for use on public roads'

Pedantic, yes, and the police often are (and often they don't have a clue)

Thanks,

So, do I need to cert the extra fuel system before going for a WOF? I'm thinking yes....

Or should I just try get a WOF and see what they say?

I would say so, you'd also need to read up i nthe hobby car manual re: Tank fabrication.

Incidently this is the 'free - sample' section available on the hod rod ass'n website at the moment.

Also check Schedule A, as from Jan 2015 any non-OEM or FIA need to have a bunch of certification/manufacturer details shown, and must be foam filled.

Bit of a side Q' is E85 allowed as a fuel for use on public roads?

Don't see it at the pump anywhere (in wgtn) and would presume it has no 'road tax' etc... applied at the point of sale.

No different to 'avgas / 100+ / C16' which you are not allowed to use on the road.

Having a problem with my t series trd 2way lsd in my toyota corolla ae70.

Its whining on acceleration and knocking on deacceleration. Any ideas? May take it to a diff specialist in wellington.

There are two companys too choose from so a little unsure which one too take it to.

Wellington automotive gearbox specialists,

or motortec transmissions

I know its for gearboxes but they also do diffs. Any info will be helpful.

Chur

Prob' backlash and needs the CW&P reset, hopefully can adjust out with the carrier bearing shims (assuming a T-series has them).

I use Howat engineering in NaeNae for all my toyota G-series rebuilds.

If I were to do my E30 again, I'd go for a 4G-63 or a 3rz-fe+T

A *UZ would be good if you don't want to 'modify' as other have said due to high $$$/HP

Making great progress there!

Looks great, I want to hear it too!!!

I had issues with a 1pc 3" my E30, only once I got on the track where shaft speeds were +6k rpm.

I'm not sure what a DS hoop will do in that situation, where you can clearly see the shaft broke in the middle, and punctured the tunnel.

Sure it would limit the damage/risk neat the front where you put hoops, but it's not going to help a hunk of driveshaft going up'ya jaxy is it....

Might be sticking with the 2pc even though the engine is now 400mm further back

At least you didn't fill the esky 2/3 with diesel and head off to Manifield...

Firestone have those ecopia things on a "buy 3 get the 4th free" deal for the next 2 weeks.

Given, they aren't a performance tyres, but worth a go......

The logical choice, with the least modifications required is a TD-05 14B from a VR4 or TD-05H 16G from an Evo 1-3.

An EVO 3 TD-05H (big) 16G would be the most desireable.

You could even find someone selling the complete manifold to down pipe if they are doing a major upgrade.

EVO 4-6 are TD-05HR and spin the opposite direction, thus all the housing are orientated the opposite.

Their turbine housing are also all 'twin scroll' if you are going to the effort/$$ to fit one of these, there are better options to consider.

Subaru MHI turbo's have Hot / Cold housings to suit the Subaru Manifolds, thus do not 'bolt-on' to Mitsi's, no idea if the CHRA can be swapped into Mitsi housings, that you would then need to buy anyway.

Seedy, you got a link for where you got that clutch from? I run a 2JZ-GE setup behind the 1JZ-GTE, but it's a bit tired after 10yrs of part time abuse.

Looks like it just runs from the battery: (JZZ31 chassis)

I don't recall wiring it up on my 1JZ-GTE either...

an e30 is my victim, obviously im not going to be firing in some random spring before finding its coil bind length etc but progressive springs eat bawls

Ah, TC Kline in the US are where you want to look

Typically, you should not replace 'barrel' shaped springs with parallel shaped springs.

Prime example of why not to is the BMW E30, E36 & E46 rear springs, if these barrels are replaced with a parallel springs they will often coil bind before full suspension travel.

As they have a really low motion ration (<0.5 IIRC) this put a huge shock load through the middle of the trailing arm due the the long 'lever' action, and can bend the trailing arms.

Not to mention the undesireable / unsafe handling side-effects.

The likes of the *A6* toyota chassis IRS would be a similar example.

Years ago there was a bloke on NZMMC that had a Chariot with the 4wd Turbo goodness, username: Manny rings a bell.

This Guy

Random People Mover Pic, on the people mover theme, I see Mazda do a 2.3l Turbo MPV too....

[thread jack]

While on the topic of ECU's (and *JZ's)

For a dedicated track (circuit) car, why would you choose an ECU that can do full sequential Fuel / Ign (say a Link G4 Extreme, Vipec V88, Motec M800 or DTA80)

over one that could only do Waste Spark and Batch / Semi-Seq Fuel (say Link G4 Storm (even the Atom), Vipec V44 or DTA60)

Ignoring all the bells and whistles (data logging / traction control / boost control / blah blah blah), obviously even an 'old tech' LinkPlus can do the job....

[/thread jack]

sorry for the 'jack yoeddynz - looking forward to see the viva's next incarnation - my 2c ITB's and Alpha-N

Awesome work! Reminds me of the fun times with my old BFMR

Re: Brakes, have a look at the DC5 Integra Type R (JDM) they have similar brembo caliper, but is a bit smaller.

Also, the front wheel looks a bit set-back after doing the 5 stud swap. Have you got some of those offset caster bushes in there??

something like this [/end thread -> start build thread]

IqaSSmx2o38

7.3l Ford Power-Stroke Diesel Rat-Rod

Name: Glenn

Location: Wellington

Cars you own: 1998 Toyota Altezza RS200 (family DD), 1985 BMW E30 323i (never ending project)

Mods to them:

Altezza - Stock (except Tanabe coilovers it came from Japan with)

E30 - 1JZ pwr'd + too mods many to list, first hit the road in 2003, many iterations since, front subframe & shell/body are the only original bits left now.

How you found out about oldschool: Long time lurker, thought I'd better join and share my 2c worth.

The E30: ~2006

Current sorry state of affairs: Commenced Jan 2009, Engine moved ~400mm back

Well I'll be, I had always read the same as nick_m

305mm MAX. firewall setback

AND

5% of the wheel base MAX. to No.1 for engine placement

One of those things you need to read a few times to sink in

The T56 Magnum is a nice option (good price), but the overdriven 5th & 6th means you need to run a +4.55 ratio diff for it to be of any real use on the track (from my investigation anyway), then to start to run into driveshaft RPM issues.

The new TKO's come in a 500 & 600 lbs-ft variants IIRC

Mikuni:

No build thread yet sorry.

any one??