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Posts posted by e30-323ti
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Thanks to some encouragment from Low'n'Slow, find herewith the latest chapter of my E30's build.
The story up to ~2008:
The project started in mid 2002, when I was given an E30 323i with a motor that was more of a 6cyl oil-pump than an internal combustion engine.So I setout to replace the engine with something more modern, BMW motors at the time were rediculously $$, with medorce HP gains (~190hp out of a M50B25).
A 2JZ-GE sounded like a good option with 220hp and reasonable $$, but I couldn't find one.
Until I stumbled across 2x complete 1JZ-GTE's with a JZA80 W58 for a whopping $2200.Then the fun began, and the engine swap, front brake upgrade & Cert' were done by mid 2003 in time to be used for our wedding.
Which had a trio of 80's BMW's, being the E30 3er, E34 5er and a E32 7er.Not being content with the handling / braking, I did a '5 lug swap' using E36 Compact parts and M3 Control Arms.
I used Porsche 996 Monobloc Brembo's up front with some nice Koni Coilovers.
Stock Compact rear brakes, with Koni Shocks and Kings 'Low' Springs, still had it sqatting like a china-man with the 218rwkw it was putting down.With the Compact rearend, using the same E30 Axles & Diff this became the next 'weakest link' and was given the boot for some more custom DiY-age.
Consisting of a late-model E28 5er subframe, trailing arms and axles, with a Supra *A70 G-series LSD (of which I have 3 for less $$ than one BMW LSD).
At this time I needed to convert the rear to coilovers also to use the E28 trailing arms, which involved building some custom shock towers, and bracing to the new diff mount.
The rear brakes were also beefed up to complement the front with matching porker 996 brembo monbloc's on big vented E36 M3 discs.After a couple of year of abuse, track days, suspension tweaks, exhaust mods, interior stripping, the old girl was not very street friendly and a bit anti-social.
Which brings us to my current 'brain fart' situation.[edit]
Dug up a few old pics:
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Our first son was born in December 2008, and I had 6wks off work (well timed with the Xmas close down at work) and thought, geez this is cruisy, perfect time to get stuck into those 'bright ideas' I've had.
Heck, there seems to be plenty of time to get things done.....Well, almost 5yrs later, as you can guess I couldn't have been more wrong!!
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Rewind to December 2008:
Well over X-mas, with a new addition to the family I had a bit of time on my hands and an angle grinder waiting for a good time.
The goal is to be a fun track / clubmans race car.
The mods meet the OSCA rules (Namely: max. 305mm firewall setback & No.1 cylinder no more than 5% of the wheel base behind the front axle), should I get the itch to take things up a notch (and find/win some $$$).
As you will see, there is a long way to go yet....
I'll let the pics take it from here:
Pulled out the engine & gbox and sat one of the rear sump pans I had in the bay.
Then took to the firewall with the angle grinder.
Jump forward in time a bit.
Possible new location for the intercooler & radiator.Some new end tanks for the IC will be on the cards.
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Brakes are well sorted, made sure of that a couple of phases ago.
Porsche 996 Mono-block Brembo's with Pagid RS4-4 pads (oranges).
Front:Rear: (also with the E28 rear-end and coilover)
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Righteo then, a few pics of the limited progress.
Downpipe & Wastegate done.
Bit of a squeeze past what is left of the firewall
Fitted up to the original 3" zorst just nicely
NB. The tilton pedal box will be ~6-8" back from where the accel pedal is now.
PS. Great tube notching/coping app.Couple of old ones (6/2005 ), of the rear towers (for running coilovers).
incl rear bracing and diff mount.Welding to the panel steel was a PITA, was a 2 person job
one holding a big copper bar (as a heat sink) in the wheel well.*****
Been a quiet winter, spending time in the warm with the kids had a bit more appeal than the cold garage.
But it's spring, so lets check out the new growth...
Got the new Firewall & Trans Tunnel folded up, and have started fab'ing into place.
The top half of the firewall is now welded inplace.
Next is the trans.tunnel O'Joy
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Metal work nearing completion.
Just have the area around the shifter and the steering column to go.
Then onto seam sealing and some rattle can red.
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The E30 saw the light of day for the first time in +4yrs (March 2013).
Found a small dragon lurking in the bay...
And a smaller one making the engine sounds from the drivers seat...
Took about an hour to get him out of there.
And a couple of the finished tunnel / firewall.
Now it's off to Bam's toget the rollcage done
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Well, she's back from her holiday at Bam's
Just need to sort out my expired race licence(s) and send off the homologation paper work.Had to dial it back a bit to meet my budget, plus I'm never going to want, get or expect 10/10th out of an old E30 chassis.
So what would have cost a lot more $$ didn't really add any more value (to me).
It is still a pretty comprehensive 8pt cage with nice direct load paths through the main members.
Most of the 'extra' stuff can easily be added later if so desired/needed.
Also, the way Sch A now reads, and from discussions with MSNZ, directly tie-ing the 'safety' cage into suspension or driveline mounting points is a no-no (ie. top of the rear shock-tower, rear subframe attachments, etc...), With the emphasis on occupant safety and not a means to building a half tube frame reinforced chassis, unless you head down the 'free concept' path and prepare all the engineering calcs/certification.
Now I need to pull finger and get the motor & loom back in there *joy*
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Enough of the retrospective stuff, back to the present.
Got the race license sorted and homologation all done
Got the cage all prep'd & primed with some nice black etch primer.
The exhaust manifold has been machined and painted with some arguably sacrifical 2000° VHT, along with the downpipe.
Fab'd the oil drain for the turbo and blanking plates done for the rear water line (heater core removed).The Motor and Box are back in so I can get a few bits'n'pieces fab'd up.
Checked I could put it in with the exhaust manifold on, so I can get it wrapped while on the engine stand.
Got the seating position set, and setting up the steering column at present.
Printing out the template today for the mounting brackets to weld to the dashbar so I can check before getting them cut.If you've driven an E30 you'll unterstand that the steering wheel positon is not adjustable, and is on a semi-bus angle.
Not so good when you've moved the seat back 8" and lowered it, so the firewall mount has been raised to flatten the angle.
The new column mounts will have a small degree of adjustability built it. I've got a deep dish Mod-08 Momo Wheel and will need a quick release, so should work out well for reach distance.The lower steering column is a bit of a DiY hodge-podge, not wanting to preclude the possibility of getting her re-cert'd for road use, I have used a selection of E30 & E36 Uni's & shafts that can be bolted together.
The 'rag-joint' was replaced with a nice steel disc to hold the 2 halves together.Then onto mounting the pedal box.
Will now have to do some real work so I can get some new pics up.
Hope you enjoyed the read for now.
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Great work.
Love it! Keep the updates coming.
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Is poorly abbreviated, but means:
Same Power or Less Power
Same Capacity or Less CapacityMore is More = Cert
So you can't downsize your stock A15 to a worked A12, as that would be Less Capacity but More POWAR (you would hope)
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I don't know if this is legit but as an idea - could you get the arm drilled out parallel and then a threaded insert with a shoulder put in then machine the taper to the side you want it?
Or leave it parallel (so as not to remove excessive material) and build a drag-link that has rod-ends not ball-joits.
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Liking this build!!
The front end/bonnet vents/guards look a bit like a scaled up Lancia Delta Integrale.
And the box guards actually look a nice shape/contour, maybe the E30 M3 & the Integrale were inspired from the carpi, imagine that.... -
Nice work.
I miss my old BFMR, same colour scheme as your TX-3
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All this sounds like more dis-incentive to get mine re-cert'd.
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so you don't run a rear sway bar? the reason I ask is I don't have one and it was on the list of shit to get.
but if its something I don't realy need then saves so money.
ive got damper adjustable coil overs on the rear and at the moment 175lb springs.(been on there since I had my escort)
Nope, no rear bar here.
175# is pretty soft, and the E30 will have more sprung weight in the rear than an esky (IIRC we ran 175's or 200's in our civic rally car, which had no weight in the rear)
What rate springs are you running up front?
(FYI - I use 550# with the OEM motorsport sway bar, 22 or 23mm I think, but will need to change it as there is a sump in the way now)
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yeah we got it all the way back .theres not much room for feet and pedals
I know all about that, dam pedals!!
Looks nice with the ITB's
ps. Saw your Q on e30tech re: Spring Rates for rear coilovers.
I run a 120/350# tender/main combo and would say it is a bit on the stiff side, but I also do not run a rear swaybar.
Something ~250# -> 300# would probably be the go.
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Yeap, 1G's do sound V.nice
Almost as good as a 1JZ, but I'm a little biased
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yes im after something I can remove.... might just go ahead and start making some parts.
Go for something like the one below.
Obviously you'd need to fit it to the motor/chassis space you have.
You could push it right back against the firewall, but as bubblegoose mentioned, there isn't much strength at that part of it, as it is just the fans for the heater behind, and the main structure isn't until nearer the base of the windscreen as you would have seen from inside the cabin.
Mason Strut Brace
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Just added a cpl of E36 pics above.
When I did my cage I wanted to add those same bars you sketched in, triangulating the towers but going through to the dash bar, but had no more coin.
I think that would be a better solution than a 'strut brace'
Are you thinking of doing something removable?
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I don't think that will do a whole heap anyway? These things are super solid in the strut/engine bay area compared to an 80's Jappa.
The works cars tied back into the dash bar like this:
The E30's are actually quite 'weak sauce' when it comes to chassis strength in the front end.
Quite often in road going cars you will see cracks around the battery tray/firewall on the d/side and the wheel well on the p/side.
Also where the chassis rails join the firewall.
What you can't see in those Grp A & DTM cages is the mass of bars they put in the front end.
There are the bars you can see, triangulating to the dash bar.
Also from the towers to the bottom of the A-pillars, and from the intake side tower (top) to the bottom of the opposite A pillar (across the back of the engine/over the gearbox - in the pic below).
And, from the dashbar/A-pillar joint down to the front sub-frame mounts in the chassis rails.
And then they went bezzerk for the E36 STW/BTCC chassis:
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no its all good mate
in the pic below .that's about ride hight and that's with the e36 front lip being 15mm higher then the e30 lip it can still go 55mm lower with the coil overs
Don't confuse being able to 'slam your ride' with actually having the bump travel needed for it to be usable.
esp. since you are running keeper (or may be tenders) springs upfront says to me you have a lot of droop travel, but probably limited bump (combined with E36 struts being taller than the original E30's).
By running less stack height (or raised turrets), you can filp that situation around, as E30/36/46 strut front ends need big roll bars which defeat need for a lot of front droop, just have a look at race car pics, most will have the inside front tyre barely on the ground.
Just my 2c from experience, sure you'll figure out what works once you get some testing time on the track.
Keep the updates coming.
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Liking the alloy work for the radiator inlet, looking forward to get stuck into mine before too long.
Re: Your Camber plates.
Those look to have a huge 'stack height'
If you're needing to get the car lower, and still have suspension (bump) travel, have a look at the GC or Vorshlag plates.
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If u scan a flange then sit 2 rulers in the picture with the flange when u scan it. On one left right and one top to bottom. Then you can scale the picture in your drawing program and draw overtop. This really only applies to shit drawing program's.
I've put turbo chargers in the photocopier/scanner at work in the past, works well
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Single 2.5" sounds like a good solution to me, space & cost effective too.
Looking forward to hearing a sound clip when you're done.
And X pipes (balance pipes) but you've no doubt dug up all that stuff with google
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Oh man I love those! That restoration is truly inspiring, the amount of detail they went into is crazy.
Tell me about, you've made me look through them all again, now feeling totally inadequate.
Thanks
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Shame they are all so dayum rusty. Looking forward to see what you do with it!!
Inspiration maybe: (re-build gallery, put some time aside for this one) or the
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^yeah^ +2k is well spendy and have been on tardme for less in the past.
http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=989298&postcount=192'>This E28 looks pretty boss on the C4 'vette salad shooters
And not half bad on an http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/attachment.php?attachmentid=60350&stc=1&d=1348086627'>E30 either
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Just for reference For my E30 with 4pots all round, Tilton Sized the below for a 5.5:1 floor mounted pedal box (unboosted of course).
323mm rotors, Front Calipers run 40/36, and a 7/10" MC (75 series)
312mm rotors, Rear Calipers run 30/28, and a 3/4" MC (75 series)
Was previously running the same rotors / calipers on a 1" (MC Boosted, ~4:1 pedal ratio IIRC)
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I personally don't know of anyone killing 1.............it is possible so ill find out for you ......at a later date.
I do, in a baby'd 320i even.
The centre looked like it had exploded, and he was just pulling away from a ped. X-ing.
Conversely 'built' small cases have been used in 300whp NA screamers in the US, albeit in a 900kg E30
I would count on having a spare handy...
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Thinking per the E9 CSL's
e30-323ti's BMW Track-Hack
in Project Discussion
Posted
Lets hear you thoughts on the old girl: Build Thread