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e30-323ti

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Posts posted by e30-323ti

  1. I don't know if this is legit but as an idea - could you get the arm drilled out parallel and then a threaded insert with a shoulder put in then machine the taper to the side you want it?

     

    Or leave it parallel (so as not to remove excessive material) and build a drag-link that has rod-ends not ball-joits.

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  2. so you don't run a rear sway bar? the reason I ask is I don't have one and it was on the list of shit to get.

    but if its something I don't realy need then saves so money.

     

    ive got damper adjustable coil overs on the rear and at the moment 175lb springs.(been on there since I had my escort) 

     

    Nope, no rear bar here.

     

    175# is pretty soft, and the E30 will have more sprung weight in the rear than an esky (IIRC we ran 175's or 200's in our civic rally car, which had no weight in the rear)

     

    What rate springs are you running up front?

    (FYI - I use 550# with the OEM motorsport sway bar, 22 or 23mm I think, but will need to change it as there is a sump in the way now)

  3. yeah we got it all the way back .theres not much room for feet and pedals

     

    I know all about that, dam pedals!!

     

    Looks nice with the ITB's

     

    ps. Saw your Q on e30tech re: Spring Rates for rear coilovers.

    I run a 120/350# tender/main combo and would say it is a bit on the stiff side, but I also do not run a rear swaybar.

    Something ~250# -> 300# would probably be the go.

  4. yes im after something I can remove.... might just go ahead and start making some parts.

     

    Go for something like the one below.

    Obviously you'd need to fit it to the motor/chassis space you have.

     

    You could push it right back against the firewall, but as bubblegoose mentioned, there isn't much strength at that part of it, as it is just the fans for the heater behind, and the main structure isn't until nearer the base of the windscreen as you would have seen from inside the cabin.

     

    Mason Strut Brace

    E30frontstrutbar.jpg

  5. Just added a cpl of E36 pics above.

     

    When I did my cage I wanted to add those same bars you sketched in, triangulating the towers but going through to the dash bar, but had no more coin.

    I think that would be a better solution than a 'strut brace'

     

    Are you thinking of doing something removable?

  6. I don't think that will do a whole heap anyway? These things are super solid in the strut/engine bay area compared to an 80's Jappa. 

     

    The works cars tied back into the dash bar like this: 

     

     

     

    The E30's are actually quite 'weak sauce' when it comes to chassis strength in the front end.

     

    Quite often in road going cars you will see cracks around the battery tray/firewall on the d/side and the wheel well on the p/side.

    Also where the chassis rails join the firewall.

     

    What you can't see in those Grp A & DTM cages is the mass of bars they put in the front end.

    There are the bars you can see, triangulating to the dash bar.

    Also from the towers to the bottom of the A-pillars, and from the intake side tower (top) to the bottom of the opposite A pillar (across the back of the engine/over the gearbox - in the pic below).

    And, from the dashbar/A-pillar joint down to the front sub-frame mounts in the chassis rails.

     

    CageW10.jpg

     

    And then they went bezzerk for the E36 STW/BTCC chassis:

    S4201.jpg

    DSC00188.jpg

  7. no its all good mate

    in the pic below .that's about ride hight and that's with the e36 front lip being 15mm higher then the e30 lip it can still go 55mm lower with the coil overs

     

     

    Don't confuse being able to 'slam your ride' with actually having the bump travel needed for it to be usable.

     

    esp. since you are running keeper (or may be tenders) springs upfront says to me you have a lot of droop travel, but probably limited bump (combined with E36 struts being taller than the original E30's).

    By running less stack height (or raised turrets), you can filp that situation around, as E30/36/46 strut front ends need big roll bars which defeat need for a lot of front droop, just have a look at race car pics, most will have the inside front tyre barely on the ground.

     

    Just my 2c from experience, sure you'll figure out what works once you get some testing time on the track.

     

    Keep the updates coming.

  8. If u scan a flange then sit 2 rulers in the picture with the flange when u scan it. On one left right and one top to bottom. Then you can scale the picture in your drawing program and draw overtop. This really only applies to shit drawing program's.

     

    I've put turbo chargers in the photocopier/scanner at work in the past, works well

  9. Just for reference For my E30 with 4pots all round, Tilton Sized the below for a 5.5:1 floor mounted pedal box (unboosted of course).

     

    323mm rotors, Front Calipers run 40/36, and a 7/10" MC (75 series)

    312mm rotors, Rear Calipers run 30/28, and a 3/4" MC (75 series)

     

    Was previously running the same rotors / calipers on a 1" (MC Boosted, ~4:1 pedal ratio IIRC)

  10. I personally don't know of anyone killing 1.............it is possible so ill find out for you ......at a later date.

     

    I do, in a baby'd 320i even.

     

    The centre looked like it had exploded, and he was just pulling away from a ped. X-ing.

     

    Conversely 'built' small cases have been used in 300whp NA screamers in the US, albeit in a 900kg E30

     

    I would count on having a spare handy...

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