e30-323ti

Try this:

http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/file/52786885/xJZ%20Engine%20TSRM%2063036%20%28JAP-1992%29.pdf

My Sister has a 2.3l Atenza Sport.

Got it with 30k and is now heading past 180k.

Needed a new Auto-trans not that long ago.

They often (well more than I'd expect) have to take it to the stealer to have the CAS's reset or sync'd, some BS about cam chain stretch causes too bigger a variance between the cam & crank sensor.

And it has always had an awful dry squeak from the suspension, I suspect it's the bushes for the front sway bar, Oh and it seams to eat the sway bay links (their old SP20 did also, mazda thing maybe).

If it has the HID headlights, the bulbs cost a small fortune and the ballast packs more so, but probably common across platform these days I guess....

W40 is a 4spd.

Perfect candidate for another Beams 3S-GE transplant, almost a 'bolt-in' deal.

Good score for a 21st gift-o-rama, look after it and don't put it sideways up a kerb!

Made a few more (small) steps forward of late...

Got the Column all mounted up and lower steering shaft assembled.

Sent some files of to get water cut.

One was for a new radiator support panel, which is a bit of a jigsaw puzzle of pieces to weld together.

The pic is just of the top piece with the bracing ribs tacked in, there are vertical support to go on yet that will bolt to the chassis.

If anyone has a 50mm dimple-die / hole flaring tool, I'd love to borrow one

Also had the red part of the previous post cut to get started on the pedal box mount.

Should be a busy Christmas break I hope

Oh, also dropped the drive-shaft off to be shortened.

similar:

And the materials palette most importantly:

• The Koach was made from 3 Model T bodies and is 18 feet long.
• The 133" frame was made by hand.
• It has a four speed manual transmission and a power rear end.
• The brass radiator and fenders were hand formed.
• In 1964, the cost to build the first one was $18,000.00.
• It had "blood red" velvet interior.
• It took 500 hours to hand form the ornate rolled steel scrollwork.
• It had Gloss Black Pearl paint.
• The front end had a dropped axle, split radius rods and T springs.
   

As everyone has said, Awesome!!

Def. need some more build details and pics.

And most importantly some Video/Sound!!!!!

Looks right at home in there!!

*X100 Chasers ran 3S-GE's, made nice dorty sounds too

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDqJ-ypWD9I

Could you use one of those exhaust scavenger setups??

Were you connect the vavle covers, either directly via a catch-can to to the exhaust:

http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?osCsid=f2b55e4334890725b85a8bffe5c6bcf1&products_id=1243&cPath=1022_1035_1069

You can get a few Semi's in a 245/45 R16 if that isn't too short of a tyre....

Sounded Fab!!

Wonder if the Mrs will have my bollocks if her RX350 sounded like that on the kindy run.....

That fuel tank +150mm clearance is a funny one, I doubt a stock E30 (in my case) would even have that.

Good the cert list wasn't too onerous looking...

Rimrite in P.North fixed a wheel that was a lot more fuxored than ^that^ for me, and did a mint job too.

Probably covered sorry, but when using keepers do you need the locator rings even if they dont fit over the shock body? Thanks

There are types that locate on the OD of the spring, rather than the ID.

Like these from Proflex:

No the HPA Tuner Live Web cast today they were saying the new Link G4+ Atom is $999.

Not sure what that means for the distributors trying to move the old Atoms at ~$1500 on tardme at the moment, may see a few going cheap?.

Also the microtech LT-9c is ~$800au, if you have someone willing to tune it...

Waiting for my new Tap & Die set to arrive to finish off the column mounts.

So thought I should get started on the pedal box (Tilton 600 floor mounted).

Thinking something like this:

Allows for +/- 50mm adjustment of the pedals (@25mm increments).

Will also have to think about tie-ing in a floor plate (adjustable also!?!) off the back to get your feet sitting at the pedals nicely.

Woop woop! Looks good GC!

 

Going to have to join the Water jet club i think. Very cool. 

 

TIG sounds like a good investment 

Chur Bro.

Yeah, figured I'd borrow yours once you'd started that SUMP.

See, I told you to get started on that sump.

Then your discussion thread wouldn't be plastered with homosexual inuendo and haircuts.....

Build something like this beauty from MRP should keep the harasment at bay:

This;

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/18315-sparkles-86-e28-535i-the-5/?hl=%2Be28+%2B535i

 

Sold it many moons ago to fund a house deposit.

 

Those BBS rims look super choice, and do I see a pic of some e34 turbines on there??

*sighs out loud* Sold our EVO to buy our house, still a bit of a tender memory.

Yeah, I'm a bit annoyed I sold the LM's and didn't rear mount the face/barrell, but is saying that, got top $$ as they were mint and near new tyres for the family wagon out of it.

Good spotting, those turbines were some rare rear 9" versions, I got the pair of trademe many moons ago, with the original spec 255/40's for $15.

One needed a refurb (excessive curbage), so still a win really.  Shame nothing else has been a 'deal / steal' *LOL*

Last minute change of plan:

Thought it would be good to future proof things, and go for a 2pc design, so a change of column can be easily done.

Little blue bits will be steel, to weld to the dash bar, and the red, out of Alloy, for weight savings (bahahahaha)

Just sent the files off to Brendon @ Accrete Design, had great turn-around and $$ with them, plus I ride past them daily.

Been a few years since I've seen progress on this! Should chuck some of the earlier photos up too.

Good things take time I keep telling myself (I'd better not F*#k it up, or I'll be pretty disapointed).

Dug up some old pics and added to the first post.

Like the style of your E21!!  What ever happened to your E28?

Yeah, always pays to give MSNZ a call to check what you are wanting to do.

Things like adding Folded Gusset Plates was a no-no without amending the homologation *bugger*

Does welding to your cage void holomigation in any way welding directly on? unsure on rules? if is could weld the brackets to a clamp? Then just do some sneaky tacs to stop it sliding side to side?

That is a V.good Q' and one I made sure I discussed with MSNZ, and was advised it is fine to add such things.

Will need to do so for other items like dash mounts, Brake Bias Adjuster, etc....

Some ideas being toy'd with to add some lateral bracing.
 

Although I imagine it'll be pretty stiff as is.

Thinking a gauge panel or the likes will do enough.

Alright, got the glue stick, card & snips out last night and braved the elements on the 3m trek to garage to see how things fit:

Looks like I got the measurements right.

Will be cut from some 5mm steel plate, the white space will be holes/voids.

The smaller holes heading up the mounts is so I can bolt accessories on, possibly gauge panel / cluster, or dash mounts....