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mattj

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Posts posted by mattj

  1. All sorted now, thanks guys.

    Rang Diggers, he reckoned that my best bet was to go to a motorbike wreckers and find something secondhand, got hold of KG Motorcycles and he hooked me up, just need to weld a bracket to my pedal and it will be another job off the list.....

  2. Some more progress, bought some hose and fittings off Summit Racing in the US and got the oil cooler and thermostat plumbed in.

    Thermostat1.jpg

    Thermostat2.jpg

    OilCoolerFinished.jpg

    Felixx was after some pics of a rear telescopic shock conversion, so here is mine, first pic shows the bracket on the diff, second is how the shock mounts at the top. Shocks are mk1 Escort, you can also wee how crowded the diff is with the brakes, shocks etc. If I was doing it again I would have put the calipers on the front of the diff

    RearShockMount.jpg

    RearShockMountTop.jpg

    And I dug the new driveshaft out of a corner of the garage, made for me by Circle Track Engineering, put it next to the factory Anglia one as a comparison

    DriveshaftComparison.jpg

    • Like 2
  3. weve got some on the shelf at work..

    theyr used for choke cables on trx's..

    i can take a pic for you if you want...its basically an elbow with a threaded end(so you can mount it through a plate and put a nut on the other side as a bracket.

    a normal bike brake cable or a motorbike throttle cable will fit the elbow boss..

    theyr probably about 70-75degree bend....and plastic

    That would be good mate, The only thing I am unsure of with the bike ones is how I would mount it, a threaded end would be better.......

  4. A good throttle cable is pushbike brake cables - you can also get the elbows from the bike shop too.

    Yeah that is more like what I am after, I will cruise past a bike shop and have a look

    Cheers

  5. fairly common on motorbikes

    own question answered :P

    goto a motorbike shop : they can make to length as well

    Tried a couple of motorbike shops but no luck, it seems the shop that used to do it closed after the earthquake (stupid Christchurch), all they could offer was to sell me a whole new cable which isn't what I am after.

  6. Hey does anyone know where you can buy the bits to make up a new throttle cable, specifically what I need is an elbow type end that turns about 70 - 90 deg so I can run it vertically through the scuttle panel then turn it to run towards the carb.

    I have tried Safe-R-Brakes and a couple of other places but no one seeems to have the elbow style ends. they look to be fairly common on motorbikes but I have no idea where to get the individual bits.

    Cheers

    Matt

  7. Hey Matt this is coming on well. Your exhaust looks good in the photos, If you dislike it you could run it forward and around the front of the motor and down the left hand side. Maybe?

    Sucks about your LCAs. Has there been a rule change there?

    Hey Pete, the problem is the rear exhaust port, it comes out almost into the steering box, I did think about going forward but it creates some other problems, I have started a mild steel set of headers but the pipe OD is bigger so therte is even less clearance, I might chuck them in the press though and make the pipe a bit oval where it runs past the steering box. See how it looks and whether it looks any worse then the stainless ones.

    There hasn't been a rule change, I just got hold of the hobby car manual after I had them welded and it is in there. When I read it I gave Wayne Martin a call and he confirmed that any modified suspension components need to be Tig welded

  8. Hey, some more progress

    To mount the engine I changed to front cover on the motor over to an early 12a one so I could front mount it then made a new crossmember, then I cut the engine mounts off the anglia crossmember and boxed it up to replace any strength that may have been removed. So I figured when I changed shells that this would bolt straight up, unfortunately it didn't....awesome.... that shell must have taken a massive hit so it's probably just as well that I decided to go with this new one. Anyways I did the same thing to the new shells crossmember and ended up with this

    ModifiedCrossmember.jpg

    I had hoped to get onto the exhaust but found a problem with my modified TCA's, here they are

    NewBottomArminPlace.jpg

    All nicely welded, and now crack tested and painted, unfortunately they have been Mig welded which is a no no on suspension components so after talking to the certifier I am going to have to re-do them. Anyone out there got a spare set of mk2 Cortina TCA's?

    After this I kind of lost enthusiasm for building a new exhaust so I have decided to use one that I built a while back, it is ugly as sin and I hate looking at it, I made it out of stainless before I learned to Tig weld so Mig welded it, and the welds are awful, but it will do for now.

    UglyHeaders1.jpg

    UglyHeaders2.jpg

    I had started to make a mild steel set out of steam pipe bends but can't get enough clearance on the steering box, stupid thing so I will just pretend it isn't there or put a heat shield or something over it.

    And lastly I bought this to go with my oil cooler, it's a thermostat as the cooler I had made doesn't have one. Just need to get some fittings out of the US and I will get it all plumbed up.

    OilCoolerThermostat.jpg

    Oh yeah and I added some gussets to my dodgy axle stands, thanks to Nigel Wade for the heads up on that

    Not sure what is next, we will see how much garage time I get this week

  9. Looks good mate, are you looking to ditch the struts and go for a wishbone setup? I was thinking about doing something like that at one stage. I will be most interested in seeing how you get on.

    if you do you should keed the whole setup nice and low then ditch the zetec and go for a v8, that would be sweet.....

  10. Got a bit more stuff done, got my rear shocks sorted I was going to mount them on top of the diff but that left no clearance with the wheels so I kind of hung them off the back of the diff where there is more room in the wheel tubs. If anyone is planning a rear disc conversion on their Anglia I would reccomend mounting the calipers on the front of the diff as there is a lot more spaceat the back for shocks

    Sorry this pic is a bit shit cause the car is pretty low even on stands and couldn't get under it but it is a decent view of the brakes.

    ShockMounted.jpg

    I also got the radiator mounted, there is just enough room to get a couple of 10" fans in between the gilmer drive and the radiator, only about 20mm but clear is clear.

    RadiatorMounted.jpg

    RadiatorClearance.jpg

    and I put my seats in and got the handbrake mounted, the seats are batman Rx7 which fit pretty good, the mounts I made are not flash but will do for now. I will need to add some clamps for the handbrake cables but eventually I will get it up on the rotisserie to sort some repairs to the bottom of the car and will weld it up then. Welding upside down sucks ass.

    NewShellwithseats.jpg

    this pic shows the new tunnel I put in

    NewShellwithTunnel.jpg

    The next job is the driveshaft loop and the exhaust, I saw a vid on you-tube of someone filling exhaust tube with sand then using a regular pipe bender to get pretty nice bends so I thought I would raid my daughters sandpit and have a go.....

    • Like 1
  11. Its a cnc cutting process that uses spark erosion from a piece of thin wire to cut through steel.

    Its incredibly accurate and you don't get a draught on the cut like with laser or water cutting.

    They use it at MCK metals in new plymouth to cut the dies for their aluminium extrusions.

    This little anglia is getting me all inspired to get back into working on mine... I'll park next to yours at 4&r in a couple of years 8) would look pretty sick, one rotary anglia and on the other side a supercharged 4cyl

    incase you were interested viewtopic.php?f=17&t=20750

    For sure mate, I have always wanted to head up for the 4&R's

    Looks like you have an interesting project yourself, I like the engine setup, how do you set up the bike carbs with a supercharger? can you just blow through them?

  12. Try making some turrets for your shocks. Then you can move them in away from your brakes.

    Mk2 Escort ones are cheap and a good length.

    Hey Pete, I see from your build pics that you have put your calipers on the front side of the diff, that's what I should have done, I will have another look at it over the weekend but yeah turrets could be an option, I think I actually have some mk2 Escort shocks in the garage but they aren't as shiny new as the mk1's I just bought.....

  13. Over the last few lunchtimes at work I made a bracket to mount my fuel pump

    FuelPumpMounted.jpg

    and have spent my evenings trying to sort out some stupid telescopic shocks but having some issues fitting them inside the wheel tubs as there is bugger all clearance. When I did my disc brakes I mounted the calipers to the back of the car, if I was doing it again I would face them to the front as the wheel tubs are wider at the back of the car. No pics sorry but I will fight it over the weekend and see how it ends up.

    • Like 1
  14. That was an interesting read, I am trying to remember exactly why I went with 3mm seals now, I know that to run a full bridgeport I had to have a 1 piece seal and I wanted to run carbon seals which only came in 3mm (for a 13b). I think that was the reason anyway.

    I had the apex grooves on the rotors wirecut as I was told it was about the only way to guarantee the groove being the right size and in the right spot. Luckily my work has access to one so I got the work done cheap.

    Interestingly the carbon seals were a factory Mazda part but it sounds like I should have gone ceramic, ahh well no matter when the engine dies I will chuck some steel seals back into it and put a hair dryer on the side......

  15. I think the series 5 turbo engine has higher compression than series 4 turbos or the 12a turbos.

    One reason that the setup in my car got good reviews was due to it being a NA 12a running low boost. Sod all lag and good drivability.

    I think stock NA 12a can run up to about 8 psi safely so long as you watch the ignition timing. So I guess a 13b with NA rotors could happily run low boost with no drama. Would be a great add on to your Anglia for the future- bolt a hair dryer onto the side... 8) once you get bored with what it will currently have...

    Yeah I had thought the same thing, not sure how the carbon seals would go under boost though they looked pretty fragile

    anyway I kept the s5 turbo rotors just in case.......

  16. From the trusty Haines manual, standard weight is about 750Kg, its massive 37hp pushed 0-100 in 30 secs and it topped out at 78mph.

    Not sure how heavy mine will end up, while the motor is lighter I haven't posted any pics of my seat mounts yet..........

    I can probably improve the 0-100 time though

  17. At first I inteded to use the standard fuel tank so I added a surge tank to the bottom of it

    modifiedfueltank.jpg

    Then I started on the exhaust and anyone who knows Anglias they will know that the tank sits under the boot floor which doesn't leave much room for mufflers. This concerned me as I have a feeling that the car is going to be quite loud. About this time I did a Tig welding course at Polytech and we had some stainless lying around work so I made this

    FuelCellClose.jpg

    FuelCellinBoot.jpg

    Oh yeah and I had a custom oil cooler made by Race Radiators here in Chch, they did an awesome job I would reccomend them to anyone thinking of getting one made. Here it is mounted in the front

    OilCoolerMounted.jpg

    • Like 2
  18. cool matt, looks like youve managed to sneak out to the garage a little lately

    hey Nick yeah mate well I figured having been lazy all summer and now that it is getting cold, it is the perfect time to head out to the garage after dinner. Plus I have also given myself a deadline of the end of the year to have it done.

    The pics of your 1200 are pretty sweet too, love the Nascar wheels!

  19. Hey, thought I would post up some pics of my project/tale of woe...

    It started a few years back when I foolishly thought that a rotary would go good in an Anglia, plus the motors are quite small so how hard could it be.

    So I bought this for the princely sum of $400

    Suspensionfinished.jpg

    Then bought this intending to ditch the turbo and run it N/A

    CarwithnewMotor.jpg

    Over the next couple of years I slowly chipped away at it until it got to this stage

    OldAngliawithSeatFitted.jpg

    Anglia240609009.jpg

    So it was about ready for panel and paint, however as I had been working on it I had found a bit of damage at the front end and it was only as I dug deeper that I realized how bad it was basically the front of the car had taken a massive hit and it had pushed both strut towers over towards the passenger side, as near as I could tell the drivers side had gone 30mm in and the passenger side about 20mm out. Combine this with the front panel being stuffed and the drivers guard also stuffed and the whole thing kind of ground to a halt.

    You can almost make out the difference in strut tower positions in this photo

    DSC01817.jpg

    So I started trying to fix it but soon realized that it was a bit beyond my abilities, plus there was some other damage on the car that I was also going to have to fix, end result I started looking for another shell. Now somewhere along the lines people lost their minds and started asking ridiculous money for Anglias but after a fairly long search I picked this one up for $350

    NewShellSide.jpg

    has a bit of rust but is straight and while I hate fixing rust at least I can deal with it.

    So this is how it sits today

    Sidewith2inchBlocks.jpg

    Rearwith2inchBlocks.jpg

    So in theory it is just a case now of swapping over all the good bits from the other car. So the specs are: front suspension is mk2 Cortina, converted to coilovers, Escort front brakes, modified bottom arms and a double sway bar. Rear suspension is reset and retensioned leaves with disc brakes (escort discs and Silvia calipers). 15 x 6.5 rims (trade me specials) with 195 45 tyres

    NewShellFrontSuspensionIn.jpg

    Engine is a 13b bridgeport, carbon seals, weber carb, gilmer belt drive, blah blah blah, s4 turbo gearbox custom 3" driveshaft all running through the standard diff

    I have some more pics I just need to get them off my work computer.......

    Discuss here //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/33014-matts-rotary-anglia/

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