mattj

Three ignitors and three coils ?

2 coils running with standard igniters,

Think I found the problem last night, had the leading igniter hooked up to the trailing coil. Stupid internet gave me a wrong diagram (totally not my fault)

Fingers crossed that it will be running this weekend

^^^

Wish I could say that, I have been trying to get mine going and having no joy, hey how important is it to have an uninterrupted 12v signal to the coils? When I am cranking it over I notice the voltage drops, I am wondering if this could be part of the problem.....

It is a 13b Bridgeport running an Ida and electronic ignition with mec717 coils

love the turbos, I have been keeping an eye out for a set for my car for ages. Probably my favorite of the old school mags,,,,

Can anyone tell me how to sort the links in my signature? I have no idea why it just links to the main page....

Nice one, thanks!

Thanks for the replies everyone, so can I use the old generator light wire? And just run that to the L plug on the alternator?

Hey, I am in the process of wiring up my Anglia with a s5 rx7 alternator, I found this diagram on the net

the car previously had a generator in it so I have binned the voltage regulator and got rid of any wires that were no longer required

The wiring of the alternator looks pretty straight forward, the only thing is the dash wire that goes to the L terminal, my question is does this need to be connected to anything in order for the alternator to function or is it just to run the dash light?

Ideally I would like to have some feedback to the generator light on the dash but this isn't really important.

Anyway I figured there was a good chance that someone might have done this before

Thanks

Matt

More progress from the last couple of weeks, I got the rollcage all welded up

It went together pretty well, I haven't made one before so lots of measuring and re-measuring but I got there in the end. So all this effort was pretty much for these little bits

which are the bosses that make the upper seatbelt mounts that go into the main hoop here

So all done and in place it looks like this

I have a couple of things to finish on the mounting plates inside the car and then it is on to the exhaust.

After going back and forth over the filter I decided to go with a shorter one and keep it all under the bonnet so I ordered a 3.5" tall one. The big advantage of this for me at the moment is that I can just put the old bonnet back on without modifying it or having to repair and repaint the one that I have already cut, so I can spend the time finishing up some of the other jobs.

New filter fitted

and with the bonnet back on

Now I figured it was time to get the roll cage fitted, I actually need this to pick up the upper seatbelt mount as the existing mount is too low for the race seats and the original seats don't fit anymore as the tunnel is so much wider (I was thinking of just fitting the old ones once again to try and speed things up and get it on the road) anyway there were some other options to get around the height of the seats but I was going to fit the cage anyway and that solves the problem.

first up the main hoop, oh yeah and to complicate things a little more I decided to make the cage removable for later on if I want to do the interior etc.

So after lots of measuring and cutting and trimming I got the main hoop in

next up is the rear stays which are going to tie into the wheel tubs, these are a little tricky as they are curved and I didn't have a bender that would do 3mm, but I do have a shop press (one of those little ones from supercheap that I got on special) so I made this

which goes in the press along with a bit of flat bar like this

So now I can bend 3mm plate, it is going to take some time to get the curve to match so that is my job for the week

I agree. Keep it sleeper spec and surprise a few at the lights. You could always get a spare bonnet later on and cut a hole in that eh?

 

Those wheels.... so big.

 

Those tyres... so... rubberband spec.

 

I figure its due to brake clearances needed?..

 

Engine bay looks so choice. Rotaries.. so cool. They always look great when simple like that. Man I cant wait to see this on the road and also along at some Nelson OS meets.  You make sure you book off next years Hanmer meet too!

 

For extra spark and smooth running you could get one extra coil, buy three bosch ignitors and run two of the coils for the leading plugs bypassing the dizzy cap but using the pick up inside to trigger the ignitors. You'll be running those two coils as a wasted spark setup direct from coil to plug.

You then run the third coil via the trailing trigger but run the leads via the now redundant old leading lead positions on the dizzy cap. This means the trailing spark now only jumps one gap in the dizzy rather than two.

I did this with the 12A in my Viva and it made a very noticeable difference to the idle and general smoothness, especially about town and under light loads. Well worth doing.

There is a very good thread about it all here...

 

http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=96724&start=0

Ha ha, I decided early on that I wanted to run 15s I think the brakes would fit under 13s but have never tried. The overall diameter of the wheels and tyres is now about the same as the standard Anglia (within about 10mm), just more rim and less tyre.

That's an interesting read on the igniters, I bought the dizzy off Trade-Me years ago so have no idea of the actual condition of it (and the igniters) but fingers crossed it will run ok. The first goal is to get it running then I can worry about making it run nice, if that is even possible with a Bridgeport.....

I ordered a smaller filter today, but I am going to modify that other bonnet as well, I have an idea on making it look a bit cooler and working with the big filter.

Awesome Matt!Shorter filter and stock bonnet for me please.

Cheers Pete, yeah i am headed that way I think

Fuel line done, brake line done, battery cable almost done.

Figured the thing to do next was to get it out of the garage and get some pics to help with my motivation

and this is how the bonnet sits if I leave the current filter on, it actually sits a bit lower as it wasn't pushed down all the way. The back of the filter just sticks out above the bonnet when it is down.

I am still undecided if I will go this way or put a shorter filter on and have it sit under the bonnet

Cheers for the comments guys!!

Car is coming along nicely.

However I must ask, does the K&N fit under the bonnet?

 

Also, your signature links are broken.

Cheers, yeah the filter is one of those things I am undecided on, the one I have is going to stick out but I could get a shorter one to keep it all under the bonnet but I think I would have to go for the shortest one that K&N do (or go for another brand)

I am not that keen on how the short ones look but want the car to remain fairly standard looking, so yeah I don't know......

managed a couple more hours in the garage today so got some more things done

First up was the coils, I made this bracket a while back when I was going to mount the coils on the side of the motor but when I put the oil cooler thermostat in they wouldn't fit any more, however the bracket was about perfect for mounting the coils to the inner wing so I went with that.

Coil bracket

and coils fitted

A while back I bought a fan controller as I wanted to have the fans turn on automatically, I bought one of these from Summit Racing

thing is it is such an ugly switch and the wire to the temperature probe isn't long enough to fit under the dash so after a bit of head scratching I decided to mount it up the front behind the radiator support panel.

And as I was uploading this photo I noticed the rust hole to the right of the control knob, I am a bit gutted about that, can't believe I missed it.....

Anyway the last thing for today was to get the wheels back on, I am hoping that tomorrow if I get the brake and fuel lines finished then I can drop it off the stands and roll it out for some decent pictures, but for now this will have to do

I still prefer the old wheels

more progress from the last few weeks, I finally got the radiator in, turned into a bigger job than I had expected but it is all mounted all that is missing is the hose clamps for the radiator hoses that I know I have put somewhere in my stupidly small garage, you would think a small garage would make it easier to find things.....

The engine bay is looking pretty full now, which will be the next problem, finding some space for the coils.

The other thing I did was sort out an accelerator cable, I got one from a Toyota something that matched the pedal I had then cut it down and got a new end put on it, then tidied up the way it comes out into the engine bay using a rubber grommet thing that I got from Basis, can't remember what it is off or anything, just saw a picture and figured that it might work.

the bracket on the carb was from Weber Specialties, it is a pretty cool setup, I put a double return spring setup on but I think the outer spring is a bit heavy, makes the pedal a bit heavy and I imagine will make low speeds a bit tricky.

I have also been working on the back part of the exhaust and the fuel and brake lines, the ones I made when the crossflow was in don't fit quite right as now the tunnel is so much bigger so I have had to tweak them a bit, I am going to try and get that finished this weekend though, it would be nice to have it back on it's wheels.

Got a bit more done over the weekend, first up I reinforced the chassis rails where the engine crossmember mounts up, I folded up some plates and made up some crush tubes

then welded it all into place

A bit of paint and it can go back together

Then I put the front suspension back together, ne steering arms in

New hubs fitted up

And all the brake lines etc connected

You can see how much I have had to offset the strut tops in that photo to get the camber right, that just gets it back to zero (or thereabouts) so no massive negative camber for me.....

I aligned the wheels as well and checked the amount of bump steer I was getting as well to make sure nothing had gone amiss between my prototype steering arms and the finished ones and it is all looking pretty good, hopefully the cert man will agree.

And the last job was to put the radiator back in, I made up some mounts a while back to attach the 2 x 10" fans that I hope will keep it cool but I hadn't painted them or anything so I welded some nuts to them to make my life easier if I ever have to take them off and gave them a quick paint.

I had hoped to get the radiator back in but sometime between taking the radiator out of the other shell and putting it into this one I have managed to lose all the bolts so I will get some more tomorrow and get it all mounted up.

Oh yeah and one last thing, this photo shows a water pipe that sits at the back of the motor, it is the take off for the turbo I think and when the motor was stripped I didn't block it off, problem is now I want to so if anyone has any suggestions for a neater solution than a bit of hose with a bolt in the end I would be keen to hear it.

Cheers

Ha ha yeah but it wouldn't be a fast turnaround on cars, this one has already taken way too long!

I am also pretty keen on a 100e, problem is I also want a Datsun 1200, sr coupe, rx7, mk2 escort, gen1 civic, HQ ute, etc, etc.

Guess until I win lotto I will just have to stick to Anglia's

Yeah I would be very careful with the Milton arms, if you are going by the book then they are too thin (12mm as opposed to 16mm which is the requirement) and they have been MIG welded where they should be TIG welded and although the 105speed crowd bleat on about how the bolts hold it all together when you look at them the bottom piece where the arm attaches to the TCA is welded and if that weld fails (that was where the welds were cracked on my ones) then they could separate from the TCA.

I will get a price for the arms from the machinist who did mine and let you know, there may be some others interested which could help get the price down. I will let you know anyway.

Did Don Hoff actually see your steering arms and OK them? I had one of the Milton ones sent away to LVVTA by the certifier here in Nelson and they were rejected so something to keep in mind......

Hi Matt

 

Great work I've been following your posts with interest recently, my Anglia project has a 4AGE and T50 5 speed and is being painted at the moment.  Unfortunately not knowing any better I went down the very expensive route of buying & importing the entire Milton front suspension catalogue only to find the Mk2 Cortina based struts are not able to be certified in NZ & are now very expensive paper weights, the Milton steering arms have been verbally ok'd by Don Hoff but he wants them crack tested.  I really like the look of your CNC arms they look awesome, any chance of getting a set made for other Anglia enthusiasts or were they a one-off??

 

cheers

Kelvin

Hey Kelvin, yeah no problem getting more made the only thing that I would say is let me get the car through cert and specifically though the bump steer test just to make sure that I haven't missed anything and we can go from there. How urgently do you need them?

Thanks Pete, yeah it feels like I am finally getting there. It would be good to take a few more days off and nail all the little jobs but I have no leave left so any time off would have to be unpaid which isn't so cool.