CorollaGT

I've noticed lately that when starting the car the LC-2 wideband gauge reads 7.8 till its heated up but it use to read 7.5. AFR's seem pretty normal though.

Does this sound right and is just due to the cold weather or is it a sign I need to re-calibrate the sensor (been a good 9-12 months since last calibration).

Watched the second episode last night, didn't mind it. Thought it was better than their first imo

I run a LC2 with what ever bosh sensor that comes in the kit and that turns on with ignition ON. Because of this I'm pretty careful not to leave the key on and the car not running though, if I do I'll turn it off and leave it for a bit before starting the car. Have had the same sensor in the car for about two years now.

If it still has the stock cat and you plan on keeping it then one reso plus a decent muffler should be fine. But if that's going in the scrap bin +1 to using two resos and a muffler.

Disapointed you ditched the Sektas TBH Sean.

Dang.. just went and paid $250 for a hilux fuel sender, are you OK with oser's bludging parts through you?

More than happy to help, PM or email mark@manawatu.toyota.co.nz is cool. Just mention OS if emailing

Can I jump on this, Need some trim bits for hilux resto.

Feel free to PM me and I can look into it for you

I think you should sell the Blacktop and install something that is already north-south orientated. An MX5 engine is the obvious choice

My current daily has the Mazda BP 1.8 twincam that can also be found in MX5's. It has a beasty midrange that I find a lot more enjoyable than a peaky 4age

What you meant to say is F20C.

Have Kelford "rally" cams in a blacktop and find myself only really needing to rev it up to 6k most of the time. No peaky-Ness which is great for road use. These are what the 20v should have come from factory with TBH

This sounds awfully familiar! Back at work on Friday, I can sort you out some better prices than originally quoted, didn't know you were an OS'er sorry.

Often the speedo will read faster but the odometer will actually be correct (had people years ago worried about road users on their Hilux's which the speedo was reading quicker than they were actually travelling)

Was thinking my daily (Barry basic late 90's Galant) was good for what it is on gas. Getting 8L/100km regular driving or high 6's to 7L/100km on long trips. Maybe not after reading other posts haha. Definitely no time to bother with trying to drive economicly!

Managed to get it Palmy to Auckland with the fuel gauge reading bang on the half mark (but not really half because stupid engineers not making the gauge read linear) as we were going along on the Auckland motoway.

Modified 20v 4AGE with bigger cams etc managed 7.9L/100km Auckland to Taupo last year. Again super stoked about that. A month earlier it was doortin around Taupo circuit doing about 24L/100km.

Found it

^ that was discovered when the motor was stripped due to a blown headgasket #toyotareliability

No3 main bearing off a 20v (bigends were still mint)

I have a photo somewhere of previously destroyed main bearings off the same motor. Replaced the bent crank that caused the bearing above.

Ohhh, I remember this car. One of my customers work ex boys was using I think

Yup it's the car you're thinking of Brad. One of the sons works with me. Had no idea they sold it, had asked years ago jokingly to buy it but got the impression they had no intentions to do that.

Are you using that Motul RBF600 Stuff?

Sure am. Been suggested to bleed the brakes after an event as well so might give that a go. Only been doing a couple of events a year.

I'd like to, but, too poor at the moment.

Streaming it off a free site. That was quite the crash, holy crap! Scary. Hopefully Alonso isn't hurt - happy to see him walk away from that though. McLaren have been looking positive so far, although I think it hurt them taking so long to pit Jensen.

Make friends with someone who has sky and use skygo

Once bleed the brakes will have a great pedal feel all day and show no sign of any problem. Then 6 months later getting ready for the next trackday only that one calliper spits out dirty fluid. Cheers, might be a good job for Easter weekend

Looking for ideas on what I should be checking here or if this is normal.

Basically I bleed my brakes religiously before each track day and have noticed the fluid is always dirty out of the RF caliper, but comes out mint on the rest.

Car always pulls up square when braking in a straight line so am pretty sure its not a sticking piston causing too much heat (pads are wearing evenly too).

I always clean off the pistons with brake cleaner and a rag before pushing them back in.

RBF600 fluid

Wilwood 4pot calipers (different pads for track and street)

Stainless steel brake hoses

Factory rear with better pads

There was the odd NZ new manual 1ZZFE that had the diff bearings fail/get noisy iirc.

Also be careful getting rid of too much droop in the rear suspension if you want to keep the 4WD useful. I know friends 3SGTE 4WD corolla would lift a rear wheel and as it had no LSD the inside wheel would just spin.

Modern FWD cars are set up to under steer. putting a rear sway bar on will help a bit it won't fix what is in effect a safety net.

A number of friends who run track or road sprint cars rave about fitting larger rear sway bars on their FWD's.

I personally run the largest factory rear swaybar available on my Corolla. But biggest handling upgrade I've done (ignoring decent tyres) is playing with spring rates. Last time out I tried 6kg fronts and 6.2kg rears (vs 8kg/6kg and 6kg/4kg previous days). Could be full throttle on or just before the apex and you'd feel the car still rotating after the apex. No understeer in sight.

I'd probably do some trawling on nzhondas.com on what brands to buy and which ones to stay away from. Certain brands don't last long

Through work we use Airflow Hydraulics in Auckland and have no issues with them

Mate with a EF9 Civic has shown interest in entering

Brought a 3T Powerbuilt jack a few years back and apart from being a bloody heavy unit its served me well. Low design so handy for lowered cars

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