CorollaGT

Thanks for the ideas. Will have a go at cleaning the contacts. Thought it was odd, did try the motor off the reg with no load too. But perhaps the contacts are that bad it can't even turn the motor in the up rotation 

N15 Sentra

Left front electric window will go down but won't go up from either master switch or the left front switch.

-Confirmed button down vs button up there is +12v or -12v at the plug for the motor (Two pin plug looks to just reverse polarity)
-Grabbed a second hand motor and plugged it in - still no good
-Jumped the second hand one off a battery and confirmed the motor does actually move both ways.

What on earth have I missed? Something common on Nissans that is causing this?

Couldn't find Prius engine with ITBs in here though

We had a current model Highlander come through our workshop missing a muffler that was cut out in December. Guess who ever it is trying to steal them isn't the smartest, cats on these are on the manifolds. They didn't click that there were no sensors near the muffler they stole

One final addition that's been on the wanted to do list for years. Previous owner had put some horrible silver foil tape on the bumper to cover some damage and it wasn't pretty (much like most of the car up close lol)

Our race from os drag day

https://www.instagram.com/p/CIuwCbxnQCG/?igshid=v11qyj100gqo

Still to do a third layer to hide a few mistakes, a good resin coat to sand / clear plus some tidying up but it coming together. 

Used some of the 3M Super 77 rarher than resin to hold the first layer in place. Boy oh boy that stuff is tacky! Have to be careful haha

Had a go last night at doing the upper half. Decided to just do two layers to feel things out incase I screwed up prep work and it wouldn't release... 

But it's off safely. Few errors and some flaws but learning as I go

Wax bottle said 5-7 coats for first time use so will get my Mr Miyagi on! Guess more sanding is tonights plan then ha

Hmmm good point. Might hit those with the block and round them off some more if that's going to make it easier for me.

This was a project from back in April's lockdown. Cut apart a stock grille and fibreglassed it up. Foolishly never took photos of it without filler or paint.

Just made a purchase of some CF cloth, resin and assorted supplies. Going to try an airbox for starters, stand by for fail pics.

Edit: Planning on making it in two pieces. Not setup for vacuum bagging, am planning on laying the CF much like what the guys did with the carbon 240z mentioned earlier. Plug(?) below of what I'll be making it over. Photo pre final sand/clear coat. Spent waaay too long making that out of MDF, expanding foam, fiberglass and bog so hopefully doesn't get destroyed lol.

You could say that...

You can see part of the steering system up by the cylinder head mounted off the tub too

Brake booster hose - mate failed his cert due to using PTFE braided line on his booster (has done an AN line setup).

Any way around that or just has to remove it and put J1403 marked hose on?

Can you make two piece brake rotors by machining the hat off an OEM solid rotor and drilling it to suit an aftermarket hat?Not sure on materials used but a mates Celica has had this done in order to change stud pattern. Perhaps they thought there wasnt enough room to redrill them?

13 minutes ago, AllTorque said:

Flip them on the rims so the outside is now the inside?

Asymmetrical so no can do unfortunately 

Whats the go with getting overspray off tyres? Seen all kinds of techniques like wirewool or thinners.

Foolishly didn't pay enough attention and got a bit on the sidewalls. Not keen on destroying good tyres through using the wrong stuff.

May have missed what TB's you're using but think its worth while trying out a set of stock 20v trumpets while you're at it?

On a side note distributors/coils seem a common issue with B series. Seen a few friends racecars have them fail

A mate of mine is a fairly tall fella and keeps breaking/bending factory seat sliders due to always having the seat all the way back. Car is a FWD Trueno.

Would repositing the factory seat mounts be ok for cert? The front of the seat mounts on a brace from the sill to the tunnel thats spot welded. The outer rear mount is a small bracket thats spot welded to the sill and for the inner rear mount theres a captive nut on the tunnel (probably the easiet one of all to reposition using doubler plates etc)