thorburnville
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Posts posted by thorburnville
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On the hunt for larger injectors that are happy with some ethanol. What I'm trying to ask is where do you get them for cheap? Is aliexpress going to leave me in tears
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Cool! Did you have to import any of the components?
The board came from Josh (the guy behind all of this) in Australia. I see he is currently sold out at the moment.
You could get some made from the likes of dirtypcb, seeedstudio etc but you might need to buy 10
All the components have been purchased from nz.rs-online.com apart from R25 and R27 - these are 2 watt 160ohm resistors that only come in a pack of 1000. I think i'll get these from element14.
If your able use hall effect sensors for cam and or crank you can skip getting a vr conditioner. This is currently the only really expensive part of the board.
You can also get the max9926 chips from nz.rs and continue the diyness and make up a vr conditioner as well
The arduino mega came from aliexpress. Check the speeduino forums for which one to get
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what about something like this: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/206151-1/A1307-ND/15607
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Thanks
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Why are you supposed to break in a cam above 2000rpm?
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I purchased one of the cheapy single phase peak clear floor hoists from gdc. Hasn't disappoint me yet(apart from 19mm dynabolts, good luck trying to find a 19mm masonary drill)
The instructions recommend 200mm of a certain density. GDC said 100mm would be fine and so did the installer I spoke to.
Lift time isn't noticeably longer then any 3 phase hoist. -
No brand or identification.
Yes it has a lid
No signs of a timer, Should be able to get some more photos tonight
No crucible.
Not sure on max temp
Not sure on the power rating. Hopefully someone wiser then me can tell from the photos
Also not sure of frequency
Not water cooled
Ned I'll get some more photos and some part numbers posted up
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I paid $315. Reserve is $300, buy now of 350. Will probably offer it to the highest bidder or if someone makes an offer on here
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if anyone is wanting an induction furnace i'm trying to free up some space http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=612562987
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Deutsch connectors or a replica of them are on my to buy list. I've been trying to find what to look for in a good crimper for these. Most of them look the same to me but vary a lot in price. Is it necessary to go for something more than a 4 point crimp?
I do want to do a quality job of it but wont be going to the extent of deutsch autosport connectors and mil spec wire
Ned- Maybe I talked to the wrong people at pan pacific. But the Hamilton store told me they don't sell to the general public. They also wouldn't take Thorburnville ltd as a business either. I'll have to have another try
I have looked at a few premade wire kits. I'd mostly looked into the painless gear but was put off by how much you get for the money. The price is a lot better on that ez2wire gear. Only thing that jumped at me was that they solder the crimps and their wiring diagrams look like something i'd draw up. It does seem just as good as the painless kit though, thanks for the link
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That is what I did for my first attempt. It just had far too many connections and wasn't attractive
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I'm wanting to rewire my racecar. (not so old school bmw e36 with link g4 ecu) The whole goal of this being to make a reliable and efficient wiring system
Problem being I want to do it myself and I can't find a local supplier.
Is there any way to bypass auto sparkies large markup on pan pacific parts?
I've been looking into ordering from a company such as waytek but would rather spend my money in this country. Are there any options
If you have any other advice on rewiring a car I'm all ears
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I'm a fan of the weco welders. But I think i'll save up for something in the fronius range.
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I've got one of the L&Lee variety. It does the job but I wouldn't recommend it. The main reason I wouldn't recommend it is because of the customer support. The lady I all ways end up speaking to can not speak english and his minimal interest in helping. As said before- it is difficult to use at low amps
The circuit boards inside it are all stamped with the mitech brand.
I regret not spending more on a nicer welder
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Check out pelicanparts.com
Just out of interest why do you need them? didn't think this was a very comman fault
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rebuilding the lsd isn't all that hard. Getting the parts is the more tricky part. New clutches and dog ear plates are quite pricey
If it really is an lsd I can supply you with some part numbers and directions.
I think you might have an open diff though
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Thank you everyone for your help
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Does anyone know where I can purchase some of these from? Or know of any cars that I might be able to pull them out of.
In particular i'm after 5/8 x 2 1/2 inch (or longer)
Any help would be much appreciated
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I've got one of the cheap trademe tigs. It is the older model of this http://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farmi ... 567624.htm
Only problems I have with it is the HF sometimes refuses to arc at anything further then a mm or less away from the metal. The argon hose was junk bin material. The pre flow and after can't be backed right off. The manual is in chinglish.
All in all I still think it is a good product for the money.
The price for the end of year stock last year was $900.
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Have done the same thing but with grease instead of paper. Paper looks easier to clean up
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I got my ntk afx from bmotorsports.com
Although they did forget to send the ngk sensor they were fast to remedy the problem. I couldn't even find an ngk wideband sensor for less then the price of this in NZ(my google skills lack though)
No regrets in buying it so far. Very easy to setup and use. Oh the digital display is great for when you want to see it. Not so good when your don't
For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs
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Is there a distance an exhaust must be from steering components?
In my case I've got a steering shaft in an e36 that I'm trying to squeeze a downpipe around