dominic

This is one clean build, and I see you have taken every step to prevent corrosion  

But be careful using stainless bolts going into mild steel, as it can form a galvanic cell where the mild steel corrodes quickly. 

This is all theory though, and I have no idea how quickly it would occur on a car, but thought you might appreciate knowing. 

Be carefull of 32/36s, many for sale are double pumps, you need just a single pump.

If it is a 32/36DGAV or a 32/32DGAV , the second pump is likely to be the antistall pump, which I dont imagine will cause you any problems.

I too have found that the wrap just disintergrates after a while on the car. Though I have found that the tighter you put the wrap on the longer it seems to last. Using plenty of clamps also seems to aid this. Get some cable ties, so that you can clamp the wrap down part way along a pipe, that way it cant come loose as you progress forward. Dont forget to take them off though.

I found gloves to be a real pain in the arse when doing mine, always getting caught under the wrap clamps. But your in for a ichy night without them.

Are you sure its a second pump, would have thought it was more likely to be an antistall diaphram, as used on some cars with autos

+1 for brushes. I recently had an issue with these exact symptoms. Vibrations from the engine loosened the mount for the brushes which then ruined both the mount and the brushes. Alternator was only 18 months too.

I would check that your venturi's are not loose and able to rattle, I recall that this can sometimes cause the described problem

If your after the an actual logitech one, just go in to dicksmith and get them to call spare parts, and they will try and source one for you. Although their spare parts department will be closed for 2 weeks from christmas. Dont ask how i know this.

If your planning to stick this in an other wise stock motor, i would check the valve to piston clearance first. The 234 has a very high lift compared to the stock cam, and from what the kent catalog suggests, it will need valve pockets machined in to fit.

Possibly he means a carb syncrometer? not sure where to get one though

burtons sells them.

http://www.burtonpower.com/web98001-000.html

^agreed with regards to thermostat

In my escort, with a recored heater, any water temp less than 80 degrees at motorway speed will result in very mildly warmed up air. Around 90 - 100 degrees on the motorway is ok, and at slower speeds and its quite toasty. Just what i find with mine anyway.

Sorry to bust in here with my first post, but i have a mk2 escort with exactly the same problems. will rev to 5k fine, and 5.5k with much determination but doesnt make any power up there.

After replacing the carb, having the distributor curve adjusted and replacing all the vac hoses im now guessing that my cam is too far advanced. possibly the same with yours?

It is my understanding that a engine with an advanced cam will move the powerband down in the rev range, but will required alot of advance to run. I notice with mine that it makes better power at partial throttle where the vac advance is actually doing something.

just a thought however, perhaps your cam was actually dialed in, mine wasnt