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Posts posted by chees-
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Anyone able to reccomend somewhere in akl? preferably on the shore. have rust around my rear window that will be a window out job so a bit skeptical about taking it somewhere that'll half arse it
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As mentioned above yea pretty much same shit as you, still haven't biffed on the variator yet as I needa borrow stans impact gun.
I did a lean test haha and it didn't hit, but also the steerings gone pretty funky so idk if I'd wanna be binning it into corners at this stage
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Lowered it, plans to run no spring front got put on hold after finding that the front shocks are seized shut, so currently just sketchily dropped down in the triple clamp.
rear is sweet with the ab11 shock which is a wee bit stiffer
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My last scooter was solid sus all round, didnt bother me much. But as said im going short shock rear so that should make up for the lack of sus front.
I wouldve grabbed some ali ones but i couldnt find any round 200mm, all seem to be 260+ when stock is 250(note if anyone is better at searching than me, i need the offset lower mount to clear tyre).
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Will fit the springs then haha. Yea im not looking for anything super wild performance wise.
brakes need a bit of attention, drums front are shocking.
factory airbox is already gone which pissed me right off, managed to argue the dealer down because of this. Not really phased on noise tbh but id rather not have to piss round with tuning it for a pod.
ive read a bit about roller weights.
They sound like a pain, but will get to that when i have too
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DJ-1 was my second choice after an af18 since we didnt get tacts here.
so sweet
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Yea i also look pretty ridic being 6'2" and lanky as fuck haha
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shocks are just held together with a circleclip, should be pretty easy really. will try cut the bumpstops into bits so its not straight metal on metal.
if you want it to still ride fine i'd recommend just sliding down the shocks in the triple tree and renotching it.
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Was gonna wait till i slammed it but bits might be a while so meh.
Brought this af18 dio for too much from a dealer type thing.
plans.
Slam: currently have honda squash ab11 rear shock on the way from japan, will go no springs front
trans: have a high speed variator kit, just need a impact gun to stick it on.
kit comes with some little springs that apparently lift engagement point on the clutch, anyone wanna way in if these are worth it?
especially when i'm just hooning round town, and lots of stop starts it might just be a pain?
engine: ali expansion chamber and up the jetting to suit, if its a a bit shit for stop start i might look into something less extreme.
paint: white or pale pink out the foot rests?
inspiration
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The form from the crack testers states that the welds on the "components with the serial number (insert serial number)" were crack tested.
I am guessing that without the serial number being visible on the casing now that they can not be verified as the exact components that were tested when going for cert.
May need to add to cert questions thread to get this confirmed.
lol those aren't serial numbers, that's years and chassis with front left or front right. will be the exact same for all bc s13 shocks.
i had no serial numbers on mine so im sure its not an issue.
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Unsure how to get the paint off but why would you need to re crack test them?
From the looks of it thats a bc sticker for s13 struts, and because they are cut up and welded to the hubs its totally irrelevant now.
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mmm
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put on some riverside r101s and stuck an lsd in this thing recently. also rust pretty much everywhere
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doesn't and no diagram shows that it should. i was all for just jamming some seal on it but that guy overtightening it has made me think its a pretty bad idea.
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much appreciated thank you <3
Was it leaking from the pinion seal, or around the nut?
nut, pinion seal is fine
edit: well it was
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You can make the required torque wrench with a piece of alloy strap, a drill, a measuring tape, a bottle of water (of accurately known weight) and a piece of string.
my god thats oldschool haha, sweet idea though
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yea i inspected the bearings and everything looks A ok, new pinion seal is on my desk as we speak.
i was considering getting a solid spacer made up vs a crush tube. new crush tube from toyota was $50, don't have a torque wrench etc so would be easier for me atleast but quite a bit of extra $$?
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was never driven on while seized. this has all happened out of car.
I took it to a diff/automatic shop cause it was leaking out round the nut. he thought the nut was really loose hence causing the leak. so he cranked it down which caused the bearings to seize up on him and him to them assume there was no crush tube. perhaps he just overtorqued it?
i have the mark of where to tighten it to for the original "loose" setting but that still has the issue of why the nut was leaking. and now the crush tube has been crushed that extra little bit?
its from Kurts aa63 celica but north shore toyota thought that was a T series, so i'd a assume a ga61 celica or ma61 supra. would be very helpful if you can thanks
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I sourced a new crush tube for nissan diff but a lot of people just get a solid spacer made up for the required preload.
i've cranked it back down again with the old crush tube and it seems to be ok now, not great. is it a bad idea to reuse the old crush tube?
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So a while back i got a F series lsd diff off kurt that was working sweet in his celica.
it developed a leak out of the pinion nut, i thought this was just the pinion seal but turns out the pinion seal was fine(until i ruined it).
took it to a diff place to get a new pinion and they figure the pinion nut isnt tight enough. but when he tightened it down bearings seized up. so he reckoned the crush tube was missing.
so i took it home and pulled it apart, crush tube is there everything seems in order apart from a tyre valve stem in between the bearings, WTF. so possibly this was seizing up the bearings?
so im wondering where i should go from here? put it back together and see what happens? get a solid spacer made? or get a new crush tube(is this even possible)?
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only took 2 photos cause fuck rain
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thats a lot of money for a 90, let alone a deez one
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chees~?
means me, haha but na i had the ef variant which as db8-typer has pointed out is very different
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Euro lowrider rarri would be lushneeds 13" daytons
who is the BEST at rust repairs?
in Lower North Island Region
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