CJ eskie coupe

yeah take the starter to them of if u know some one who is good with that stuff its always good. its cheaper on labor if they don't have to remove and refit, was the terminal on the back of the starter lose at all?

The clicking will be the teeth of the starter hitting the teeth of the ring gear at the wrong angle if its not engaging properly.

Do the edges of the teeth on the starter or flywheel look shiny?

hey mate,

check the connection at your starter from the battery +ve if this is loose or has poor connection it wont let ur starter crank or will crank poorly, also check ur battery condition, if your battery is on its way out u will have a poor start to. check those two things first.

when you say "it just sounded like the starter motor was going but no engine cranking" do u mean the engine was freely spinning and not fireing or was the starter just making a spinning sound and no engaging ?if this is the case your starter solenoid may also be on its way out.

yeah its about 40/60 front to rear

I my have been just lifting off a little bit but once it slid out i defiantly was, tbh i cant really remember what i did to try correct it. but again its what baffles me as i had tried to make it slide out before to test the handling limits and done high sharp turns on the motorway to avoid some dumb ass in a Subaru that almost looked like he was purposely merging onto me/ trying to block me from passing. and it handled like a dream

yeah that's the only thing i can think of, and others have mentioned, i have drove past several times since cuz its on a road i use alot and i havent noticed anything unusual on the surface of the road but that's my eyecrometer

haha i think right now i don't need another rocket but a run about haha but i dunno right now haha not the right head space at all,

um i was coming up a road with a S in it nothing to excessive and as i was going up the back gave gave out, (something i have never experienced in that car at all) then from there it hooked all 4 wheels the R/F wheel hit the curb, threw the car onto the island, back of the car hit a small tree that straightened it up a bit then it droped down and through another curb then stopped on a big tree, that's basically what i have put together from seeing the damage to the trees, curb and car.

i still dont understand how the back slid out that is something that will haunt me for a while. and all i really remember is thinking "oh fuck that's that wheel gone as it hit the curb, the rest is a blur until it stopped on the tree and had released what happened

that should give an idea i havent been able to stop lookig at these pics and wonderig how i only got a couple scratches, i will post some of the car in its former glory soon

pics of the wreck or its former glory? its prety fucked, i still cant understand how it happend and all that haha, haha that would be different, ive always wanted to cosworth power my escort which is a short story to how i managed to get this car, but i really didnt want it to end like this =(

cheers for all the help guys, i will see what he evaluator NAC uses has to say, i have all the recipes from things i did to it (3.5k worth of parts most ex u.k) so thats covered and i have a few photos of that car all of u know what its like =p

and about whats happening to it well if all goes well i want to turn a negative to a positive as i still have a mk2 esky 2dr at home that needs a engine ;p so given the right price i want to buy the wreck back and salvage the breaks and engine, i want the seats but i had a look today and the floor is pretty fucked, it bent the drivers seat base prety bad

in all honesty i dont know i walked out with just scratches, i should have a broken leg or something im really counting my blessings right now

Sadly i have just hit a rough patch of misfortune and written off my sierra cosworth, some time today (weds 4th) i start my battle with the insurance company, i was hoping someone mite know or happen to be a private evaluator that could help me out if the insurance company tries to screw me on the actual value of my car.

Any help will be much appreciated.

I will stay posted as to how it all goes

Cheers

yeah i put a generic cts sensor in so i could eliminate that it is the cts and it was so i left that in as it made it drivable (was a little unpleasant when cold but not hard starting) until i managed to get a correctly spec cts through Milford Auto Electrical, and has been running great ever since i also have just put a 3 inch exhaust on from the turbo it had a couple resonators and a muffler nothing to loud but gives the free flow it needs to and this has also helped alot as the old exhaust was rooted, the fuse box was fine as i have checked there for other issues

yeah we went ova that after charging the battery and testing it again its ok but ave a feeling the alarm is drawing a little excess current, no cells are boiling when the battery is charging either, im looking for a good battery around work with a better cca because after spending so much so far i know i can get a couple things on the cheep ;p

after much searching i found a coolant temp sensor its was a real pain because it wasn't listed in parts for the cosworth it was somewhere else and went off the picture guide, and it turned out the parts department at work had one similar so i tested it and it was very close to what i needed so i brought that and put it in, bled the cooling system up and went for a drive and so far so good, Ive put the battery on charge for the night and will load test it 2moro and will replace if needs be and then give it a good drive 2 and from work and a few detours to make sure its running all tikety boo =)

i had checked charging it was all good, and the spark gaps are between 1.0 - 0.92mm i had set them to .9 about a month ago

i had a look after work and one of my workmates managed to get in contact with someone he knows that had a similar problem with his cosworth, and his advise was check the coolant temp sensor on the side of the head that is hidden below a coolant pipe, so i removed it and heated it up and checked resistance against specs i found online, the sensor is a NTC sensor and behaved according to spec until it got to about 90 degrees which should be about 0.28k ohms but instead it was fluctuating around 128.235 ohms, way off where it should be so i will find a new sensor and go from there

plugs are new/ near new were put in by the previous owner before i brought the car i have re gapped them to 0.9 while i had a misfire issue that i found to be a combination of plugs gapped to big, faulty leads and timing out 1 tooth on the dizzy pulley. i doubt its gettin to much fuel as it starts easy after it cuts out each time until the batter died but with a jumper batter on its ok starting, we have the fuel gauge at work but there is no where on the high pressure side to fir it to as every thing is hard alloy fuel line that is then crimped to plastic line there is no connectors as of yet but i am going to re run fuel line as there are a few crimps im not happy with the worst has been removes as i mentioned earlier. the ecu was rset while i was fitting the fuel pump as i had it disconnected for 30 min to near an hour. i have a new battery at work i acquired before i left so i will get new terminals and fit this new battery im hoping its just that the battery wasn't accepting charge and the car lost fuel pressure/spark because it couldn't get enough supply from the battery but knowing my luck with this car so far it will be something else

i have just replaced the fuel pump in my sierra cosworth as after giving it a good run on boost and just cruising along again it would cough and splutter then occasionally die out, so i drove it for a couple of days fine off boost and it was all good until it cut out on me at idle, so i stopped driving it while i waited for a fuel pump to arrive, i had access to a fuel pressure gauge but never got to use it as there is no where to connect it on the high pressure side,

but after i put the new fuel pump in which is a performance pump, and i removed a real bad crimp in the return line with a temporary fix of fuel hose and efi clamps i drove the car around the block making sure to give it a bit of pedal to the metal and all seemed good then o was cruising in 4th and put my foot down and it felt as if there wasn't enough fuel getting in, it lost power and surged a little, i dropped to 3rd and it still did it and then when i got to second it seemed to have corrected itself and was fine but it did it again a 2nd time shortly after, same scenario, cruising in 4th

then once i got back to the workshop i left it idling and started to check over for any leaks, or loose connections then it just cut out, so i started it again and keep checking for possibilities then it cut out again i went to start it and the battery was flat, so i load tested the battery and its faulty so i have to find a new one, and i know the alternators charging because i had it fully rebuilt not so long ago

anyone have any ideas or had any similar problem?

it will, whether it likes it or not =p

i may do once ive got it to the point where i can drive it for more than 3 days without anything going wrong haha

im not sure what mine would be at the moment but its running 16 - 18 psi atm with a rooted factory exhaust that is soon to be replaced by something a little more free flow its had the stage one tweak from what i have been told by the guy that imported it im thinking about stage to to get it up to the 300s and just chill with that. Im the 3rd owner in nz, 4th in its life the guy who originally owned was a guy by the name of Paul backwood, he owned it in the uk when he was working over there and imported it over before he came back

I took one hell of a risk buying mine it was in nelson i never even looked at it, paid $8500 for it and $ 500 to have it shipped to work have prob spent another 2k on parts so far to get it running properly, and fixing a few things and making a few things look better still have to spend another couple k on it before im satisfied with it but its half the fun with taking risks but i have also had some priceless moments in it 2 driving it between problems

yeah there are always those cars, im actually having fuel pump issues atm and im waiting for mu new one to arrive so in the mean time i bypassed the impact switch because a couple of the boys found it funny to keep knocking under the wheel well and triggering the switch

I recently had a no start issue with my car that i easily resolved after consulting the owners manual so i thought id post something here for anyone with a sierra cosworth and doesn't have a owners manual for the car

What i found is no power was being supplied to the pump after doing all the usual checks i stared thinking possibly an immobilizer issue,

It turns out there is a fuel pump kill switch for in the event of an accident it will stop pumping fuel, it is located in either the boot under the spare wheel (where mine was in a sierra cosworth 4x4) and either the drivers or passengers foot well behind the kick panel trim.

To reset it all that needs to be done is to press the switch/button on it and all should be well, I found with mine that if you put the spare wheel into the wheel well with enough force it will trip the switch.

hopefully this will help someone out there =)

yeah sounds like that will be the plan i was prety keen on alloy just wanted the extra opinion

sounds like a rather good idea