tomypg

Hey, thinking about buying a car that is de reg, comes with the plates and all. Do I just go to VTNZ and get it recomplied? Or do I have to get all the paper work from the police etc etc and then go see them?

Nope $29 a pop or what ever it is...

I am not sure of the C, but road bike tubes are 700x23c. So it is a measurement of width I think from the old days maybe european.

Yea, seen that, added it to my watch list. Bit too much dollars for me..... Spent more than I had hoped for a warranted car so far...

Hard to afford stuff with xmas/new years in south Island + heading to melbourne in jan...

Thinking of getting a cheap as hell run about for now. And then keep chipping away at the car...

Yo, I have pictures of that hillman at the pick a part thanks.

Thanks for all the help.

The engine is screwed though..... Debating spending more money, or selling all together and getting somthing else...

Okay, so the car is actually now for sale. Anyone keen to continue this on?

I have pretty much wired up the car apart from switches and indicators have been installed. Just need to wire those up and add switches. Dash has started to be fibreglassed. Nearly done the matting.

I'm am not kidding, seriously need a car that works now.

I wonder what the set-up on a 4agze is then. Cause it is essentially the same thing. I'll go check it out.

So once I locate the breather hole on the crankcase, I attach the pipe to the intake manifold with a pcv valve? And run the top breather hole to my catch can?

It might be that the 4th cylinder is screwing everything around.

On the boost gauge it is reading 4psi at idle and increases as the revs increase, as expected. I'll try to find this darn block breather, cant for the life of me find it. WIll have another peek soon.

Tim, it's only back firing and with black smoke cloud, from the 4th not combusting. Engine does not look rebuilt, worried about rings...

and we relocated the tubing to the brake booster, so nothing should be funny there.

it should standard i think, but since its supercahrged it should have pcv valve on it so you dont pressurise the head under boost. catch can should be fine then. is the crankcase breather under the inlet manifold to the manifold? hows ya super charger hooked up? To the intercooler then manifold does it boost all the time?Yep, 4psi at idle if your crankcase breather goes straight to the inlet manifold with no pcv valve this will pressurse your bottom end on boost and possibly make it have a smoke stack out your top end. just ideas/ramblings

So, i should be using the catch can on the head breather? Or the bottom end breather? Or should I use this pcv valve into the inlet manifold?

That hole is the oil breather hole. The cloud isn't hot and we think it's an oily cloud. We can't find a crank breather at all on the engine.

When I got the car it had an oil catch tank installed.

Is it supposed to go into the intake?

UPDATE WITH PICTURES YAY!:

HEre are some pictures:

Interior relay board:

No dash:

All my new ignition shit:

Hmmm, What does the smoke oil stuff mean? We are worried the the 4th cylinder may not be sealing properly. THe spark plug is shot though so we should fix that first. But what cause this kind of pressure build up in the top of the engine? Help please!

Okay, so the rush for new years has begun. Indicators have been mounted, coil has been mounted, new ignitor has been mounted, now the car starts and has a decent spark.

BUT, the car runs quite rough. Is this because the timing is off? I did take the dizzy out and down to a shop to be tested. But I was sure it was placed back in approx the same position?

I'll get some photos and a video too just to show the problem.

So to do list:

Mount number plates

Finish of switch board

Wire up indicators

Finish the dashboard (Smooth over the fibreglass)

DONE! I want this soo bad for new years to take to the south island!

re- not starting.

This is what I usually do,

- get some engine start in a can, spray that into the air intake, and turn the motor over with a 1/4 pressure on the throttle, if it fires up and runs, it's a fuel problem.

Actually did try this, still didn't start

- if it doesn't, it's a spark problem.

- to test the spark problem, remove one lead from the, leave the spark plug alone, get another old one from somewhere and turn the motor over with spark plug held against the block in a semi-dark place (so you can see the spark).

- if there's no spark, it's a spark problem, (or an earth problem).

- if there is spark, repeat on each cylinder and note on a piece of paper as you go,

Spark is there, been tested on all cylinders

Try it again, but put the stuff in after the super charger and intercooler, perhaps the spray never reached the engine in enough quantity to enable it to fire, it's pretty weak in terms of octane.

Having, spark, and compression, and fuel = a running engine. somethings missing out of those.

We were doing it into the intake manifold. But it's starting now! But it's running like shit. It might be a large vaccum leak though

re- not starting.

First thing; all engines need to run is compression, air, and fuel, and spark at the right time.

So, one of those IS missing, this means it's either,

no fuel.

no spark

no compression on all cylinders (not likely so lets rule that out: running on 1-2-3 cyclinders it would still 'thump')

or no air (not all that likely either, in so far as I know Earth still has an atmosphere)

So, your probably is likely to be either spark or fuel.

This is what I usually do,

- get some engine start in a can, spray that into the air intake, and turn the motor over with a 1/4 pressure on the throttle, if it fires up and runs, it's a fuel problem.

Actually did try this, still didn't start

- if it doesn't, it's a spark problem.

- to test the spark problem, remove one lead from the, leave the spark plug alone, get another old one from somewhere and turn the motor over with spark plug held against the block in a semi-dark place (so you can see the spark).

- if there's no spark, it's a spark problem, (or an earth problem).

- if there is spark, repeat on each cylinder and note on a piece of paper as you go,

Spark is there, been tested on all cylinders

- if your motor passes all the above, it could still be a compression problem, so the next thing to do is check for compression, and check that the cambelt has not jumped a few teeth, and wreaked the relationship between the bottom and top of the motor which would mess up the compression because the valves are open at the wrong time. this usually happens when the cambelt tensioner suddenly gives up.

Timing chain, not removed or touched during clean up

- after all that, I would make SURE the ECU is on as well, by that I mean make sure the diagnostic light is coming on, and run diagnostics if you know how, otherwise, just confirm it has power at the right time.

This is what I shall check.

that should keep you busy, a few easy simple tests, and some more complex ones, takes notes as you go, you'll probably end asking someone for advice and you want to be able to explain what you've done when your asking for help because it helps narrow things down, also if the motor fires at all, note that down as you go, often things get 'slightly' better before they get solved

Cheers for the help, will go double check ECU once I am out after exams.

I'll check that out next time I am out there, Kinda doubting it as we didn't take that of or anything, we opened the cover just to check that it wasn't not connecting on the point and made sure we placed it back in the exact same place (We had marked it )

EDIT: Thanks Mods for clearing that up.

Charge your battery or chuck a jumper battery on - the voltage may be a bit low for everything to work properly while its cranking..

We tried it with the battery we had in there since testing, A deep cycle marine cranking battery, has started it in the past. and we tried the battery out of my mums car too. We have charged the big battery over the weekend, so hopefully we can see if it works when I am out there next.

Need some help.

We have just tidied up EVERYTHING, All the wiring, ECU, relays, lights, indicators, brake lights, Lengthened hoses for brake boost and stuff so it look tidy, have everything back on again after fixing sump leak, and now it wont start.

It turns over with the start motor, it is getting spark and fuel. Everything should be going. But it's not catching on and running by itself. Any idea on what it could be?

That is so sweet! Lower it please and put a nice exhaust tip on.

Chur

Where can I get a new pulley made for my SC12? Looking at running more boost than my current set-up.

Haha, cheers for that. Couldn't find any red ones anywhere! And the car isn't with me, it's at the workshop, only full sized photos of the car WIll get better ones once the car is working and outta the garage.

THanks guys.

Hey can someone try and change the colour on my car please? Would like to see what it would look like a dark deep red. THANKS!

Soooooo, the car has been sitting at Dylans workshop for a while now as I have run out of time to work on it myself with exams starting tomorrow (oh shit...) SO i said screw it and Dylan is going to do the work. I said that a little while ago, but Since he is doing a discount rate, I said if any other work comes up do that first. And of course, some work turns up, haha. BUT he did start on it today and traced the wires for all the lights and will fix the two leaks after all the lights are done. Stoked.

Lame with no pictures, but still, warrant in 1 to two weeks, I am so happy. Better god damn pass.....

Just had a look and love how it has that blog kind of feel, but with properly written articles.