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Mikewazowski

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Posts posted by Mikewazowski

  1. Yeah I think that + new shocks (which I need anyway) might be my first port of call. Although I'm picking that 5 mm travel until it hits the bumpstop is probably not going to fly, especially since it'll sit on the bumpstop with 3 people in the car I'm pretty sure.

    Tempting to raise it by 15 - 20 mm, not require a cert and most of the issues will probably disappear...but it just looks so good :rolleyes::lol:

  2. ye that, and/or possibly jam some bump stops in so the diff/dshaft cant hit the floor?

    Yeah the bumpstop above the diff is just (a couple of mm) shy of connecting with the diff as it sits currently. The dshaft flange only hits on the corners as it rotates so I wouldn't need much clearance and then the bumpstop would actually stop any metal to metal contact as far as I can tell.

  3. Sweet. That makes sense.

    So it looks as if adding another leaf and getting the springs reset (again) may well be my next port of call. Hopefully combining this with new shocks and tunnel mods should result in my driveshaft not clipping the floor. Which would be an improvement :lol:

  4. Thanks for all the feedback. :D

    short story is if you want it that low get springs reset and maybe added leaf . or 'massage' the floor . or cut section of floor out and make a new tunnel that will require cert though .

    I'm not really sure why I'd need to reset the springs since it is already low enough, or is that to compensate for the extra height gained by adding a leaf. On that note, why does adding a leaf raise the car?

    My front crossmember is around 80 - 85 mm ground clearance so I'm going to need a cert at this height regardless. I'd say no matter what I do I'm probably going to need to either massage the floor, or more likely, cut the floor and have a new section welded in. If I can do this and still run my original rear seat then that shouldn't be an issue.

    Cheers

  5. My bellett is fully insured with AMI just no glass cover . As a vintage(pre 1971) unlimited km's ,insured for gymkarnas etc and has resto cover if its in rebuild. All up about $150 per yr. I thought it was petty sweet. cover is market value.

    I'm a little concerned, since my cars are also covered by AMI for market value. Unfortunately, I've seen them try to pay as little as possible and claim that it is "market value". In my experience, many LMVD will say your car is worth $1000 if it is japanese and oldschool.

    Sadly, I was told that AMI don't do agreed value for 3rd party fire and theft, only for full cover.

  6. I'm not sure whether an overload spring would help in my case since I don't think the spring flattens out completely before the floor makes contact. I was under the impression that an overload spring would only affect the spring rate once the spring pack had flattened out and touched the overload spring along its length. It is very possible that I'm not sure what I'm talking about though.

  7. Okay, so I've lowered my 180B (610) wagon around 90 mm and I'm now having a few issues with my rear driveshaft flange (by the diff) connecting with the floor underneath the rear seat. It's lowered using 50 mm lowering blocks and the main leaves have had the eyes reversed (40 mm).

    It looks like I'm possibly going to have to raise the rear a little (10mm?) and/or cut and raise the floor.

    I'm thinking I'll need to stiffen the rear suspension to stop the floor coming down and contacting anything when I put stuff in the back/people hop in the car.

    What is the best way to go about this?

    Would I want to get and extra leaf added to the pack, or could I potentially use some of the coil-over shocks that I see listed for leaf-sprung cars that carry loads?

    Keen to hear people's thoughts since I'm quite new to leaf springs.

  8. Just had a quick browse through the autolign listings we've got here.

    Would Datsun 610 be the same as 180B?

    Yeah it is. The 610 is the first model of 180B. My wagon is a 1976.

    Ta.

    Also on another note, it looks like I may want to increase the spring rate to stop my driveshaft/diff from contacting the floor. Would it be worth looking into coilover shocks, or am I better off getting a leaf added to the pack to increase the rate? (Potentially this should be in tech section).

  9. Go see Jim at the shock shop hes a GC

    Is he the same guy who was there 5 years ago? If so, I wasn't impressed when I last dealt with him, and haven't heard great things from other people tbh. Perhaps things have changed. Might be worth calling in and investigating.

    Larry - yeah I know that firmer shocks aren't the answer to my diff hitting the floor. But my current ones are poked so I need new shocks anyway. I've used firmer damping in the front so I figured I may as well get a higher damping rate for the back as well.

    Kindest regards,

    Michael.

    Edit: Oh and it's not my diff hitting the floor, it's the flange at the end of the driveshaft. Looks like I'm probably going to have to either raise it 10 mm and see how I get on or cut my floor and get a section welded in higher to clear the driveshaft. :rolleyes:

  10. It's been covered above, but yes if your ecu is set up to use high impedence injectors then it makes sense to use high impedence injectors. You can use a resistor pack to increase the resistance (subtly different to impedence as mentioned above) which allows you to use low impedence injectors.

    If you have injectors that will suit the application then it makes sense to use them instead of mucking around with resistors.

    From what you have said using the RB20E injectors should be the go, at least from an electrical point of view.

    Note: I am not an expert.

  11. 1983 Mazda 323 hatchback (2 door) when I was 16 in 2003

    It was my cousin's car and she didn't want it anymore since it wasn't going to pass its next WOF. I bought it for the $11 or whatever it cost to change the rego over. Dad fixed it up for me and I rocked it for quite a few years. It had the slightly higher compression engine with twin carbs, and it also had power steering. It was originally red with a brown interior but I bought another hatchback for $50 and swapped all the black interior over into my one, painted the outside racing green and chucked some 13" mags on it.

    I sold it when I was at uni to make way for an S12 Silvia hatchback.

    It probably wasn't/isn't a "cool" car, but I thought it was choice and still do. 8)

    P.S. Never crashed it, just like I've never crashed any of my cars/bikes.

    P.P.S :shock: your ear? Wow.

    • Like 1
  12. Shit truue! Surprised I haven't seen it round. Will have to have a meeting sometime.

    Haha yup, it's pretty hard to miss and I drive it quite a bit. I'm keen for a meet up sometime :D

    lol @ pic of tree stump with scissor jack on top.

    Yeah man, technically that is our chopping block for firewood, but as you can see it is dual-purpose :lol:

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