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kiwitina

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Posts posted by kiwitina

  1. In the FAQ on the POR15 site it says its fine to use ontop of a clean freshly sandblasted surface.

    Ive got a question tho.. If you used POR15 what should you use to paint on top? ( Lets say you are painting the whole shell etc )

    The guy down at spray store recomended not using any Urethane or acrylic paints ontop of the POR15 paints

    They recommend using their tiecoat primer over the top of the POR15 before paint.

  2. ha only just discovered this thread.

    Name (first is sweet): Goodman

    Location: Auckland & Pukekohe

    Cars you own: 1969 Mk2 Cortina Super

    Mods to them (can be brief or detailed): Car in process of restoration. Plans to rebuild a fast road engine I have for it and get it back on road asap

    Link to pics (if you have some, and keep it a link to keep 56kers happy)http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=24725

    How you found out about oldschool: searching for cortinas on google.

    Anything else you want to add: That if this car isn't back on road in the next year someone should slap me.

  3. Progress it seems has come to a halt. Had a good summer break managing to spend too much money that would have otherwise been thrown at the tina. Work is gonna be slow for the next few months so I’ve decided to play it safe. Stupid fickle NZ film and tv industry...

    _MG_4344.jpg

    Now Im just concentrating on the little things or the stuff that ain’t gonna empty the wallet.

    Kinda need to wait a while anyway. Need a good couple of grand to get the body up to scratch and then theres the paint which probably should all be done around the same time.

    Roof headlining before was immaculate

    IMG_4231.jpg

    and after. Sound insulation cracks me up. What the hell was that gonna do??

    IMG_4232.jpg

    All this jelly crap came out of the fuel tank when I emptied it. A byproduct of sitting for 3 years doing FA

    IMG_4335.jpg

    Forgot that I did some basic rust removal in the boot just after I got it. Probably helped save me from having a bigger job this time around.

    _MG_4346.jpg

    The rust I found around the boot seal is a bit worrying. Its like this around the whole boot opening. Another design flaw for these cars. Moisture that makes it down in to this rail has absolutely no way of flowing out! Will consider making a slight modification to route water out and down the back panel.

    IMG_4348.jpg

    Pretty happy with the state of the floorpans. Will need some patches but when compared to the state of some Cortinas that are under restoration in the UK. This is mint.

    IMG_4352.jpg

    IMG_4356.jpg

    Found more cancer underneath the dash on the firewall. The other side is the same

    IMG_4354.jpg

    Hopefully wont be too long before the next update!

  4. I am slowly getting back into the escort, the body is going to take a while as I am still learning to weld, but i have the doors and boot lid finished, am i best to primer them and leave for another year, or paint them now? If im best tp paint it now what paint should i use?

    leaving primer for a good amount of time before flatting and paint is good it will reduce the chance of sink back, but not too long as primer is not water proof and the metal beneath may start to rust

    Based on my novice level of experience and what ive read here I'd say you would want to get it primed atleast but avoid painting single doors etc. one at a time. Think you would want to paint your upper coats all at the same time to avoid panels etc that dont match the others.

  5. Based upon what I have read. My 2c of the process should go something like this...Correct me and bounce your ideas if i’m being a noob.

    Exterior Shell

    Sandblasting - Whole car back to bare metal.

    Bogging + Patching - Fill out any imperfections. Weld in patches and smooth out but not so smooth that the primer won’t bind.

    Wipe down and remove dust + grease

    Etch Priming - Red Oxide. Atleast a couple of coats. No sanding

    Priming - Grey 2 coats. This can then be sanded smooth before basecoat. I have 4L of lacquer primer I want to use.

    Underside, Floorpans, Possibly Engine bay

    Sandblast back to bare metal

    Wipe down and remove dust, dirt and grease.

    Put down POR15. Use a brush on the harder to reach areas. atleast 2 coats

    Use recommended Tiecoat Primer over the top.

    Your thoughts and critiques please. Is there any problem using 2 different coloured primers on the exterior? I know bubblegoose, that you said I don’t have to worry about primer sealer but Im unsure about weather to use in between the 2 primers on the ext. Would there be any problems using different brands of primer etc. in between the ext. shell and floorpans?

    Yeah I know...What an amateur. :lol:

  6. Just finished reading all 24 pages of this thread. What a novel. Had to space it out in to 4 stints just to allow the information to sink in...

    I’ll be doing all the preparation work on my Cortina myself and then i’ll pay someone to do the colour. There will be a fair bit of time in between the priming stage and the paint stage so I can save some money for a decent paint job. This is ok as long as the primer gets smoothed back before paint right? I’ve read a bit elsewhere about primer sealer. Would I do this before the little hiatus or should that be done before the base coat goes on?

    I’m blasting back to bare metal and will be using POR15 on the underside, floorpans and possibly the engine bay as it seems to have a good reputation. Do people ever POR15 their whole car? or is that a silly question?.

    Great thread. Thanks to all the knowledgeable people who have contributed. Since when was painting such an artform anyway right??? :wink:

  7. And use riv nuts :)

    Looks like you have a fairly mint shell seen alloy worse

    Benefits of spending a bit extra and getting a car that was on road I guess. Looks to be in original condition but I cant really tell. Riv nuts??? rivet nuts i assume?? cant think if i've ever seen them. Chur

  8. Another little update. Managed to make a better job of drilling through the guard along the top mounting rail.

    IMG_4183.jpg

    Discovered that the trick is to look for the join where the two bits of metal join together distinguishable by in my case a reddish ring in the drill hole. Patience I found is pretty important.

    IMG_4186.jpg

    The bottom of the guard nearest the passenger door had been pushed out somehow. This should have been sitting flush with the sill.

    IMG_4187.jpg

    Don’t know why they put these foam bits up inside the guard near the top of the pillar. All they seem to do is trap dirt and moisture and cause all sorts of rot.

    IMG_4196.jpg

    Think I might adapt some of those black inner wheel arch things on modern vehicles to fit to do a better job. New fibreglass guards will be bolt on eventually.

    Inner wheel arch and pillar is pretty damn good. Left hand headlight bowl is another story. Will have to add this to the list for weld repairs.

    IMG_4193.jpg

    IMG_4190.jpg

    IMG_4200.jpg

    Next up is to take to the remaining metal from the guards with a die grinder. Tidy that up. Purchase a bigger better compressor to power my blaster. Get it etched and in a somewhat more respectable state by the end of summer. As she is at the moment.

    IMG_4197.jpg

  9. Pretty rad that you chose to turbo a pinto rather than substitute in a jappa mate.

    yea bit of a chellange really. want more power than the average 4g63t or sr20det. will see on thursday. tune day!

    Yeah cos those engines are lacking grunt :wink: . Your just greedy and ambitious! haha hope it goes well.

  10. Starting to make some progress, well a little atleast.

    IMG_4138.jpg

    Doesn’t really look like my pride and joy anymore but it’s all for the greater good. Spent the bigger part of a day getting the drivers guard off.

    IMG_4140.jpg

    Made a few little botch ups along the way like drilling right through the mounting rail a couple of times instead of just through the spot weld :cry: . But by the last half of it I had my technique and patience down. Should be able to do a real tidy job on the passenger side next time.

    Was pretty pleased at the state of the A pillar. Will still need a repair but it could have been worse.

    IMG_4143.jpg

    IMG_4144.jpg

    Will also need to do a little repair at the top

    IMG_4141.jpg

    IMG_4142.jpg

    The rest of my week has been spent getting the interior and engine bay clear. Windscreen, bench seat, carpet etc etc is all out but still have alot more to do. Anyone know how the dashboard pad comes off? Don’t want to make a mess of it as it’s in pretty good nick.

    Went to Trade and Industrial Supplies and got a vacuum sandblaster as a christmas present to myself. Will probably have to upgrade my air compressor to run it unfortunately.

    Oh well..This summer is set to be a busy one that’s for sure...

  11. I have taken the guards off a mk2 before.. they are stuck on everywhere, tricky job which takes alot of patience.

    Gaz

    Yeah mate. I see its gonna be a tricky job. So was that off your current Mk2? How was the base of the A pillar once you got em off? From what I can see in mine, it doesn't seem that bad. The guard itself though is pretty shot so its gotta come off!

  12. So i’ve been spending most of my time after work trawling over the internet for various stuff to help with the restoration. Seems I’ve had some success trying to source some replacement guards. Cheers to Craig for putting me in touch with Halliday Racing Developments up north who can make me some new fibreglass ones. :)

    Spending some $$$ on various tools etc to get to work on the shell. Would have been nice to get a professional to blast it clean but I can’t afford it. Would rather spend the same amount of money to get what I need to do it myself and have the tools there for the next project...(not that I’m contemplating another at this stage) So until I can afford to buy a vacuum sand blaster I've got a big bottle of paint stripper, some primer and a spray gun coming off trademe to keep me busy.

    I had originally planned on buying plans from the UK to get a rollover jig made over here but the guy was abit slack in getting back to me. In the meantime I found this guide for a Mk1 Escort Jig. I'm assuming the Cortina and Escort wouldn't be too different in regard to a pivot point so I think with a few adaptations it will have my tina sitting at 90degrees easy!

    http://www.neilfletcherracing.co.uk/the_spit.htm

    http://www.buysellcortina.co.uk

    This website is awesome. Full of helpful articles and a forum for solely cortina stuff.

    http://www.oldskoolford.co.uk

    Another helpful resource with a dedicated section for the Cortina.

    http://www.classicfordmag.co.uk

    The best classic brit ford mag around. They have a wicked new website and forum with more good stuff to gork over.

    Looking forward to having a few days off this week to start stripping everything off the body and finding out how much work i’ve got to do . Got to make some more space around the car to work in because it’s only gonna become a bigger issue. Got some hooks and hangers from mitre 10 to take care of some of it. Would really love my own garage right about now...

    _MG_4016.jpg

  13. Hey mate, I'v got a mk2 myself, 5speed sierra box with a bench seat. I just moved up from Wellington to Auckland 2 weeks ago. Living out by Ardmore aerodrome.

    Keen to see how the Tina turns out!!

    Always good to know of localish cortina drivers. Im from Pukekohe which is local enough i suppose. Think Im gonna stick with the 2000e gearbox in mine. might only be 4 gears but thats what I like about it. Close ratios too! Definitely staying with the bench seat. Will hopefully be done by this time next year!!!
  14. Itching to get stuck in to these front guards and get them off the car but have been so busy at work I havent had the time. The work has given me the funds for tools and stuff tho. Scored a bunch of cheap air tools off trade me (reciprocating saw, die grinder kit, chisel kit) Also got a 2nd hand air compressor and engine stand too. Think Ive saved a bunch by avoiding places like ripco!

    I definitely want to replace both the guards and its either steel panels from the uk at a price or fibreglass panels which are probably not as good. Also from the uk but at a friendlier price. Would like to hear from anyone out there who's done it so I can investigate my options further.

    For the rest of the body Im looking at getting a sandblaster and doing it myself. Problem is I dont really know shit about them. I'm thinking I'd need one with a vacuum so Im not burning through alot of sand? Am I right?

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =332241862 It ain't cheap but its cheaper than a quote I got to get someone else to do it.

    Wouldn't it be nice to have shitloads of cash around to get me rolling in a few weeks! Yeah but that would be cheating. Budget build is the only way to go!!

  15. Got the gearbox and drive shaft out today. Was using a haynes guide which didn't mention anything about the automatic transmission. Wasn't too different though so was able to get it down and out.

    IMG_4030.jpg

    Was surprised to see that it wasn't a Ford gearbox but a Borg Warner.

    IMG_4031.jpg

    Im pretty sure it's the original but who the hell would want an automatic cortina anyway?

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