slickyddyer

Yea I will get stage one or two porting done. I'll take both heads in and have a chat. Will let you know soon...

Not sure what cam it is. Just said it was a reground one to fast road specs... I'm going to ask cylinder head specialists here in christchurch what they think and get them to do the head work.

Thanks - So what do you think I should do?

Hi gaz! hows your mk 2 going? ...I am going to use a fast road cam! Yes I thought that may be case. How did you drop the compression on yours? With a gasket? How thick a metal head gasket should I be looking for? 2mm?

Hi, building a 205 Pinto motor. Using a fast road cam and twin 45 dellortos. Just wondering if I should use the 1600ohc head (with porting polish, new big valves,seats ect) to beef up the compression ratio rather than the 2l? The fast road cam states it works best with a 10.5:1 comp ratio. Does anybody know what the comp ratio is achieved using the 1600 head? The 2L head has 50cc chambers obviously and the 1600 has 38cc chambers. Not planning on racing this engine so I need to know if the ratio is going to be too high. Maybe just get some head work done the original?

Na mate. But you may have to. If you are talking about an escort?

Na mate. But you may have to. If you are talking about an escort?

Got flywheel back yesterday, lightened. Put Hillman Avenger clutch plate in and it worked sweet as with minimal rattling and vibration. So the moral of the story here is that you CAN NOT mate a sierra clutch kit to the original kent flywheel with the sierra bell housing and have play in clutch...unless you space motor and box.. So all done!

Oh ok i just don't want to do it unless I have to.. I put a real good level across the front of both bell housings and the input shaft meets the level on both. So as long as they are bolting ti the same place (they are) there isn't going to be a difference.. And if i did cut any off, there would be a section not enclosed by the wee bearing in end of crank (pilot bearing)

Which is the same plate as the Hillmans which most BNT/Repco's etc would have on the shelf... Why do you say to cut the end of the sierras input shaft? I been looking and they are the same length

Haven't done it yet. Waiting for flywheel to be lightened and clutch plate from a sierra 1600 to arrive. Should be sweet next week, I'll let you know. Had to make crossmember. Na didn't have to adjust tunnel in mk2 cortina. Just grind a wee bit round back of gearstick hole.

HAHAHA yea hell fucken spit!

Gearbox x member is custom made. Not much meat on it.

Thinking about ditching this bigger clutch and rolling with Hilman Hunter clutch plate an cortina pressure plate now. Save a lot of hassle and still work. Just with smaller clutch. That way no change to any mounts...

I just read online that some people use the 2l cortina clutch kit with this box? does anybody know if the 2l cortina clutch kit fits the sierra flywheel? Maybe its smaller and will give me this clearance. It is strange that no one seems to know about this stuff. This conversion must have been done many times before...

Oh ok sounds like the same thing. Im going to get my mate to order some custom engine mounts. Moving motor forward wee bit. Or might try smashing old ones up could you slot the mounts ? no....theyre only little.

Oh ok sounds like the same thing. Im going to get my mate to order some custom engine mounts. Moving motor forward wee bit. Or might try smashing old ones up

I also got a spare box to see how the fork is attached. Its exactly the same. Loose as a goose. So I don't think this was the problem. Just a clearance issue.

Ah tuch'e! Good idea

Im using the original flywheel mated to sierra clucth kit! This is how everyone I know has done it. But you are right, I mistakenly used a sierra flywheel first time round and it didnt work because the starter wouldnt engage with it and neither would the sierras starter dues to the offset in crank.

Thank You I think I know whats going on now... I'll try and explain and then try and fix! I have no free play in clutch. Very strange. Clutch fork is pushed all the way to the back of bell housing by the pressure plate teeth when bolted to motor, eliminating any free play. Looked at mates capri 5 speed conversion and his fork is in middle. The kent motor must have very different off set crank to capri. (further back) So what I'm going to have to do is space gearbox back about 5-10mm with washers or something. What a pain in the ass as I will have to make a new gearbox cross member (as bolt holes will move 5-10mm) and shorten drive shaft 5-10mm! If I had known this conversion was so difficult I would have kept my lovely old four speed *sigh* Why does everybody say this is easy and it bolts straight up when clearly its just not the case? Idiots Probably a lot easier with the pinto motors as they would have same clearances as sierras...

Mine is a 5 speed sierra gearbox. Very different to 4 speed....

My ford sierra 5 speeds clutch fork sits real loose and pretty sure is the cause of a rattle from that area. Does anybody know if they have a clip that holds it in the pivot point? Or if there is different sizes of fork?

I think clutch fork is missing a locking clip or something at pivot point. Does anybody know if these boxes have them or if they just sit loose like mine?

I removed gearbox clutch and flywheel last night. Took it in to BNT and Auto transmission and the reckon theres something not right with the clutch fork. It doesnt sit in the pivot point very good. And the new thrust bearings looks wobbly. Bloody self adjusting one just dont look right. Going to try find another sierra bellhousing and clutch fork. See what another one looks like. Checked pilot bearing. Looks ok but not bad. Checked spare motors as well and seems the same so don't think it was that. Everything looks sweet...Has to be the fork. So na not thrust bearing come off. Can see heaps through the gap. TO still looks like it needs to go back further back..theres no free play for some reason like the clutch kit is too big.