slickyddyer

Correct it's in the back of the crank and it has not been machined from factory because it had the torque converter in it which does not require a being as it's solid mounted to the crank. I can't figure out how to add photos on here but if you imagine the hole where it's meant to be...it's got a slight lip about 3mm in that runs right through to the end of the hole. So I'm fucked for putting this motor in as a manual at the moment. The bearing just won't go in past this lip. I had a look at the torque converters shaft that was in there and it stops at the same point the bearing stops when i'm trying to get in in (about half way)

Got this 205 motor off trade me. It used to be an automatic. Iv'e put it in my cortina all ready to go but this spigot bearing won't go in to the back of the crank shaft because it's never had one. The metals never been bored out for it. Iv'e tried grinding some of it out but it's no good. Do I have to take it out again and find a manual motor? Or can it be fitted some how?

Anyone in christchurch got any parts for me? need the extension tube from the block for the dip stick and the oil/air separator and pipe.

Thanks will do. Update soon....

Hope your right, surely 8 degrees out wouldn't make any contact happen... Only motors Iv'e ever rebuilt is my mk 2s 1600gt motor and a vdub motor. Limited experience. I'm just a lowly drain layer! Going to buy the correct water pump tomorrow..$83 dollars...Expensive? I think so. Can't wait to get the headers on and the twin 45 dellortos tomorrow.

Got my lash caps from the states - summit racing...

Got the fan off the water pump! reverse thread! What a trick for new players. Now I may have made a fuck up. I set the Crank pulley to 8 degrees BTDC and set the head to that wee dot and put the timing belt on.... Turned it over a few times and the marks wouldn't line up after being tensioned.... I then realized I should have set the crank pulley to TDC and that the 8 degrees BTDC is only for ignition timing purposes. Right? After correcting this the marks lined up sweet and I got the belt fitted. But now I'm worried I may have contacted the valves with the pistons... WOOPS Didn't feel any contact happening but who knows now. Hope it still goes!

Yea its a viscous one.. Thanks

The haynes manual just said to remove the four screws then pull it off! The new water pump I have does not have a thread on the end so I can't see how the original one is screwed on. Is it a reverse thread then? Is that why it won't screw off? I've tried unscrewing it but maybe I'm going the wrong way. Will try other way tomorrow in my vice. Also wondering guys... The manual says to set the timing 8 degrees BTDC.. So the lines on the crank pulley are in 2 degree intervals and I want it to be on the final mark furtherest from the heaviest TDC mark? There are heavy marks and small marks in between. Are these small marks 1 degree marks? And finally Do you want the dizzy set to Number 1 cylinder with the contacts just opening? Because thats what the haynes manual says..

Got head back from shop finally now rebuilding. Can't get the viscous fan off the water pump. Removed the four bolts and according to the manual it should just pull off but it won't. Tried heaps. Hammering, chiseling, flat head screw driver. Just won't budge. Don't know if a puller would be any good. It might damage it... any ideas?

Was a blown relay from water leaking into and around the link computer. Someone installed the 3 relays in upside down so water can get into them. Sorted

Got an auto sparky coming tomorrow. Will let you know what he finds.

Yes, I understand how a relay works. The wires go where they normally go except one that goes to the link computer. Yes there is a black one grounded in the boot.

Yes I'm sure the pump was working when I had it out on a battery I think its not getting power but I put a multi on it earlier and one of the wires was reading 12v but the one that goes to the link computer only goes from 0.8v (key off) to 1.8v (key on) All the relays are clicking by the link computer but not the one in the boot between the tail lights. Took the relay out (the green boot one) and tested the input wires and they both read 12v (key on) so maybe it needs replacing but who knows. Not me

found computer. Checked all fuses. seem all good. theres 3 relays on it too and they all seem to click when key turned. found the wire from it to the fuel pump too. the relay in the boot doesn't seem to click but it may have been disconnected?? looks like the wire to it has been cut and replaced with the one going to the link. still don't know what its deal is. going to bunnings to get a hose clamp. man the fuel pumps are assholes to take out and put back in!

Shirley

Can't see one, And if it blew I'd say theres an issue. I am in Christchurch

Checked relay in boot. No clicking

What relay? where would it be? under bonnet?

Driving out of town today my skyline died. Checked spark - roger that Checked fuel - negative Towed home and listened for fuel pump - negative Removed fuel pump and tested it on battery - It works! So put it back and it won't go. Just going to point out at this stage its link g4 storm computer powered so no afm or o2 sensor. Dyno tuned and a few cheeky mods. So I'm thinking a relay or lose wire or computer doing something odd. But I'm no expert. Just a lowly drainlayer. Maybe you are?... I don't even have a multi meter so this may be beyond me. Pity If I have to take time off work to tow it somewhere and get it sorted! $$$!!! What you think?

Hey anybody know where to get lash caps for these heads? Head shop needs them for this build....

I'm doing the 2L pinto because the car was running a puss 1600pinto and it's an easy upgrade and bolt in. Why didn't you go for the zetec or something? If they are cheaper. I'm not after mad power. Just a cool lumpy idle and bit more grunt for the mk5 goey. Have you got your mk2 going on the road yet gaz? Ive got one too.

Thanks. They haven't done anything yet. Going to call me and give me some options next week. I'll ask them to balance the rotating assembly. I'm not that clued up on how they do these things but they guy I spoke to seemed really on to it and has obviously done a fair amount of these heads over the years. I'd say he would be doing the balancing anyway by the sounds of what he wanted to do. He was going to investigate the cam specs by the grind number on it and do the porting to match-and to go best with the twin dellorto 45s. And match the lifters and all that fancy jazz. Sorry, i should have mentioned that. Sounds like a lot of money is going to be spent here...I'm going to get it right however. Replacing all bearings and oil sprayer Maybe I should ask for even more skimming to get to the 10.1:1?

Have you read any of what I've posted? I'm doing all that stuff gaz. Porting Rasied comp Twin 45 Dellortos Cam

Took both heads in today to Cylinder Head Specialists in chch. Had a chat and they said they had worked with both types a lot and it was merely rumored that the 1600 head was better but in fact the 2L head is fine and easier to achieve the compression ratio I desire. Maybe if it was for a race motor the 1600 would be the go, but It aint. They reckon one port is too big any way so they are going to clean them up port and fit cam and new bigger valves and hard seats and skim to ratio about 9.5:1 which should be good for a reliable street motor. Very busy though. Could be 3 weeks until I get it back. Update soon...