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340i

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Posts posted by 340i

  1. yeah not much progress on it at the moment due to lack of funds and motivation. i'm going to be displaying at speedshow in a month and a bit, so will probably pull finger in the coming weeks so that there's some progress to show for that. 

     

    i hadn't actually given too much thought on the radiator cap height, but that's a good point and i'm going to have to look into it. when i fitted it i just made sure it fit under the bonnet and that was my main consideration. 

  2. saw the vid last night/early morning and makes me sad my motor isnt miles away from my radiator because it would be sweet to make sweet piping like that!

    Wonder if it would cool enough by just putting fins on the pipe and not having a radiator at all? or adding fins for a bit of extra cooling on the pipe? i think finned pipes would look pretty cool and should be done anyway :)

     

    haha trust me it is not sweet making piping.... there's so much cutting and measuring and welding, waaay too much work to hook a radiator up lol. and then there's the 8 silicon joiners, 16 hose clamps, and five chassis brackets. on the upside, i think it was a good project to do to practice my stainless tig, so i can do the rest of the exhaust myself (i had Bam do the 4" pipe. partly due to time rush before the nats. partly cos he's a bawss at tig). 

     

    regarding finned pipes, this would help, but would make under the car hotter. good in winter but not so much in summer ;) (i'm talking as-if wellington has a summer... lol). on trials 4wd's i know there are guys that just run the coolant through the rollcage, which has the same effect. as long as its water tight and you don't touch it right near the motor, its a pretty cool idea. 

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  3. Offer still stands if you need any help. I'm mates with Alex so can always wing out with him if he is doing a mish..

    thanks man. for the foreseeable future i'll just be doing small things on my own as i have time, but i'll let you know if i need a hand at some point

    I was wondering what this was up to the other day and went on and watched episode 33, where you assembled the car and took to waters edge for photoshoot, then episode 34 starts off assembling it all over again hah! Must be getting pretty good at it!

    haha yeah after that video i needed the space in the garage and didn't want to leave it outside with all the expensive parts on it, so stripped it right back and just left the bare chassis/body outside. not the most ideal scenario, but i'd rather that than wake up one day and find parts missing lol. i need a workshop asap haha

  4. Progress is looking sweet Nick. I take it the holes between the 2 main chassis rails are for the radiator lines?

    thanks. yip, thats correct. i cut them in back when i initially built the chassis, and have since started the stainless piping but didn't bother putting it in for the video. i now also need space for the piping for the water-air intercooler, so need to make some more holes somewhere :(

    Hope this isn't a set of daft questions but whats are the cert requirements on air tanks for bags?

    Do they have to be certified every 10 years like LPG tanks?

    If they do - does that mean that the chassis has to be tested?

    Also does the strain of the air pressure inside the chassis whilst flexing become a potential issue?

    the only requirement for air tanks that i know of is that they must be mounted securely so they don't break off and become a projectile in the event of a crash, so i should be all good. it'll never see more than 200psi and from memory i built the whole chassis from 5mm thick steel, so its nicely overkill in the strength department :)

    Dont think its any issue KK its only say 150psi, cars etc have factory bags and the tanks are never tested, its such low pressure and doesnt blow up so big whoop.

    I guess my only long term concern would be rusting out the chassis, even with a water trap shit loads of water will get through (unless you buy a $$ trap and run a decent length of hose to it), hopefully it has a drain.

    yeah this is true. my plan is to add drain bungs under the chassis and also once all the chassis welding (there's still more to do...) is finished, I'll coat the inside of the rails that hold the air, so that it doesn't rust. I've spoken to a guy that built hotrods and bagged rides for years and his professional opinion was that i didn't need to do anything because any "rusting" will be incredibly slow and not cause any issues in the life of the minitruck. The internal coating is just a peace-of-mind-thing for me. I imagine that if there was surface rust inside the tank and moisture, that you might get a dirty water or sludge out of it, but i also figure my valves being on the top would not see any of this anyway.

    Luckily you can use the bags to lift up one corner so you can have a drain on the opposite corner of the rails to drain water from them :)

    haha true! I'm already loving the benefits of bags, like when needing to jack the car up i can just air it up first and easily slide the jack under. this was a nightmare before, when the chassis was sitting on the ground and wasn't easy to lift

    Dont think its any issue KK its only say 150psi, cars etc have factory bags and the tanks are never tested, its such low pressure and doesnt blow up so big whoop.
    True - even though I wouldn't call 150psi low pressure - 150psi being let loose in a hurry could cause some damage - but I get your point that they are not exactly "high" pressure - in saying this tanks are not normally a stressed member either.

    regarding air tanks as a stressed member, as long as its designed to take both load types simultaneously, there's no reason anything should go wrong. i have heard of situations where air tanks have been done before and failed, but it is when someone adds a dive tank to the system and all of a sudden instead of 200psi you've got 10,000psi or something like that and kaboom good bye chassis! haha. The cert requirements for hotrod/minitruck chassis is 50x70x3 and my 100x100x5 is quite a bit more hefty :D

    iv seen PVC tube pumped up to over 100psi. this will be fine.

    to complicate thingsthough.. I just did some googling. pressure in an lpg tank is only approx 165psi ( depends on ambient temp and gas mix)

    Yea but LPG can go boom, hence the cert process. His chassis is thicker than most bag tanks you get over the counter, its not going to blow out

    Ned the bags will go down when you drain the tank

    spot on here, if an lpg tank leaks you've got flammable gas leaking, usually into a car, which is deadly. for cert the minitruck won't be able to lay out on the ground, so absolute worst case scenario to cause an issue is the air tank would need to fail/leak at the same time as the airbags (or valves) AND the tyres, and the chassis still won't hit the ground (when set up to be road legal, instead of the 'show' setup option i've also got, which will lay on the ground). Other than pressurising too high and exploding the chassis (impossible to do with the compressors and feed lines i have), there really isn't anything dangerous that could possibly happen (touch wood... lol).

    haha, stupid Ned :P

    Though if you lean it to a far corner with the drain now being the lowest point, and the tank is still compressed to 150psi and you open up the drain, it will fire all the water out pretty quick...? could work? i don't know.

    I'll stop talking now and go back to admiring the sweet build!

    Do you still have that wooden floor? Why use a wooden floor? Looks like your metal working skills are plenty good enough to make up a floor, surely....? Or am i missing something?

    na, i ditched the wooden floor. the wooden thing was purely so that i could combine the floor and seat base with the sub box (being one structure), and i was going to run an external fuel tank behind the cab somewhere. i've since decided to hide the fuel tank and also all the valves etc under the cabin and so bye-bye to the subs idea. I can live without bass (and have done my whole life in cars haha), and they were just for the show judges anyway tbh. at the end of the day, everything is a compromise, and if i take it to the nats and a judge says "nice minitruck but you've got no bass", I'm not going to lose any sleep about that haha. In saying that, there are still options for me to run small or low-profile subs, which i may or may not explore later in the build.

    because wooden floor is ballin

    I recommend polished matai

    I reckon ply with a veneer of something nice looking.

    I've got something special planned for the floor/interior, it sadly isn't matai, but i think people will like it ;)

    Spamming up this thread, but the air moves the water out Ned just like on your compressor at home

    Anyway always look forward to these updates man, love the work that goes into these videos

    thanks :)

  5. thanks guys! yeah i'm stoked to get it to this stage, and that the airbag system is working out. the frame was only tacked before and actually broke in half when i cut some of the welds to tweak it flat (it had bent a little from all the welding in the back for the rear bag mounts) haha so i got it on my new chassis table and flattened/straightened it out again, then welded it up good and tight to hold the air. it looks like a fairly complete vehicle but tbh there is still a tonne of work to finish it, and many parts that i'm going to replace before driving it, so maybe another six months if i can keep finding money and time to throw at it :) it'll get there eventually.. haha

  6. hey i like how you're running coilovers and hydros, and have some questions about your setup:

    why are there four cylinders on the back? wouldn't it work fine with just the lower two?

    has the suspension design been lvvta tac approved?

    are you going to four link it?

    cheers

    nick

  7. thats pretty sik! i seen a single pic of the 'naked' aventador on facebook, but its better to see all the bits. id love to set up a low slung car body on my chassis when im done, which would sort of look like that, but have it interchangable so that i could swap it on for track days or whatnot. im not sure on the details yet, other than i think it would be a good laugh. maybe even just get something like some s15 aftermarket fibreglass doors, bonnet, guards and bumper and do a sort of windscreen-less roadster car-ute sorta thing haha.

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