matt_spitfire

Can anyone recommend underseal that dries fast and is pretty durable, reasonably priced? been looking at that hippo liner that you use on ute trays.

Cheers

Matt

Cant believe i haven't commented before,

 

I smile greatly when i see an update for this build! Awesome stuff going on within.

Cheers EURON8 i find having a build thread motivates me to get shit done on the car so ive got something to update haha.

Dude, thanks for the excellent amount of detail with those photos!

Excellent thread!

Thanks man, probably get a bit trigger happy with the old camera but i try to show in as much detail what ive done and how ive done it, i find it easier to work something out by looking at it or drawing it up as opposed to doing a shit load of reading!

Diff in and rolled her outside for a dust off, think i got the ride height pretty spot on 90mm all round.

Also gave me a chance to clean up the shed haha.

IMG_1469 by postlematt, on Flickr
IMG_1487 by postlematt, on Flickr

Also plasti-dipped two of the wheels to get idea of what they look like black.. and a few too many photos of her sitting under her own weight, enjoy haha

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//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/38745-matt-spitfires-ta22-daily-driver-buildresto/page-4

Rear shock diff mounts cnc'd and rear to weld on..

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Welded on..

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Also welded on the extra bracing for the towers..

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Got some adjustable diff arms from a mazda ute..

diff links by postlematt, on Flickr

solution, machine them down to fit the ta22.

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Football season officially finished saturday s now i have my whole weekends back to focus on the ta22 got stuck in this arvo.

Welded some plates into the told towers to locate the new towers, not pretty but its definitely not going anywhere anytime soon and itll be hidden..

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got on a bit of a roll and it was all on!

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Theyre both in and just have to weld the front plates on for a bit more strength, it was getting dark and wasnt the best light to weld in so hopefully ill have another crack at it after work tomorrow.

IMG_1395 by postlematt, on Flickr

Got to machine up some brackets to weld on the diff now that the suspension is in place.

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Got some of the plates cut to shape and towers spun down to the correct size/height.

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Still mocking up and fine tuning but its not far off, hopefully get it all welded in this week/weekend

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Just thought id post this up, the Sushi celica. stumbled across this a while back now but theyve taken a similar route to what im going down..

Blacked out trim, bumpers, vents, grill etc. ill be going mazda sunlight silver with a satin clear, black wheels, no flares, side skirts or cannon muffler..

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A pretty boring update really..

Got the tops welded onto the new rear strut tubes, still got to chuck them into the lathe and spin them down to the correct height (80mm from the floor + 20mm on the underside of the floor)

IMG_1342 by postlematt, on Flickr

Earlier in the build thread i posted a GT front grill i bought from japan, listed as a ta22 grill but was actually and ra23/28 grill (too wide) ta22 GT grills a RARE and go for about $400-700 usd.

Solution... cut down the gt ra23/28 grill to fit the ta22!

Measured up the ta22 ST grill and marked out the difference

IMG_1098 by postlematt, on Flickr

Then cut the honey comb and cut and shut the grill.

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Cut and shut GT grill sitting next to the factory ST ta22 grill

IMG_1105 by postlematt, on Flickr

Luckily the GT grill is steel so tigged back together, Photo for reference.

Top: ST ta22 plastic grill.

Middle: cut and Shut ra23/28 GT grill.

Bottom: Ra23 LT plastic grill

IMG_1350 by postlematt, on Flickr

Also Bought a 40L drop tank.

IMG_1351 by postlematt, on Flickr

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/38745-matt-spitfires-ta22-daily-driver-buildresto/page-3

Cheers

Matt

any ideas guys bout what colour im at s los

Hey man, google images is your friend when it comes to choosing a paint colour, just search up coronas and see what stands out.

Thats what ive done in a past.

you can either go into a paint shop and look at colour swatches..

Or if you want to get a specific colour once decided on a basic colour ie. Red, then just keep and eye out for factory red cars.

Find one you like, note down the make, model, year and you can track down the paint code online, dealerships, paint shops or if you have access to the car you can grab the paint code off it usually inside the engine bay or door trim.

Steer clear of the new mercs though theyve got fancy paint that costs about 20 grands worth.. already looked into merc paint o_0

Started on the 1st stage of the rear strut tower, markin shit up and cutting shit out!

Half done with grinder and half done with plasma cutter for those hard to reach spots.

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Im going to use part of the original shock towers as support/bracing then will reinforce it with some 1.6 zintec.

IMG_1341 by postlematt, on Flickr

Worked out the height the new towers will be set at

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Some of the left overs "weight reduction"

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stage one complete!

Cheers

Matt

Hey mate, top job on the rust work!

just curious as to how you went about rolling the inner guard lip? ive got to do the same to my ta22 but dont want to flare the outer skin of the guard.

Cheers

Matt

Went and saw my cert guy this arvo, explained the build to date along with my plans supplied photos and drawings of rear towers, and also took all the gear for my rear towers, coil overs etc with me to show him. Hes more than happy, so pretty stoked to hear that and the project is full steam ahead!

I've been following your build for a while now, and have just read through the entire thing again.  I am amazed at your build quality and your use of all the custom parts you have made up with the CNC machines and mills and things, this is seriously cool.  I wish I could replicate the skill and quality of your build in my Subaru, but I just don't have the funds, contacts, or experience.

 

Freakin' top build Matt, once in a lifetime type shit! Awesome.

Thanks for the kind words nobangmycar,

A lot of thanks has to go out to my dad, his engineering skills and access to the work shop have made this build run a lot smoother. he got me working in his workshop since i was 11 years old, 3-4 days a week after school and every school holidays. when i finished school i worked there for 6 months before uni then when i finished uni i was back there for another year and a half, i learned a lot and kind of wish i had done my appenticeship but then i would have never got to uni.

the car had been built on a serious budget, i earn under $20 an hr, one of the joys of living in nelson.. the sunshine tax.. hence the huge build time.

I have recently resorted to selling my daily driver and bought a shitbox daily to free up some funds for this build so hopefully the ball will start rolling again with the build. ideally im aiming to have it on the road by novemeber but only time will tell. things never go as planned.. we all know this is the case with project cars..

Cheers

Matt

Celica sunday... put the fender mirrors on..

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Tyres should be going on the rims tomorrow, ill buy some 15mm hub adaptors this week and rear  strut tower fabrication will commence next weekend, can wait to have it sitting back on the ground with the coil overs all round!

Got into my old mans work before football this arvo and drilled the valve stem holes.

GetInline by postlematt, on Flickr

GetInline-1 by postlematt, on Flickr

Went for the stealth look and put them in the back lip of the rim, 45 degree bend with an extension.

GetInline-4 by postlematt, on Flickr

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So just thought id follow up on my wheels, cant recommend the  guys who did them highly enough! remade the wheels free of charge and assembled them then sent them back no questions asked.

At the end of the day i realise making custom parts doesnt always run smoothly sometimes you need a few cracks at it.

once again i would highly recommend these guys and will happily get other wheels made by them in the future.

Also found a 4.1 hilux diff, 4 spider that ill try find an lsd for but happy to run open at the moment..

IMG_1228 by postlematt, on Flickr

scored these fendor mirrors for $60 too

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and last but not least, new leads $1.50 tardme special, cost more to ship them then it did to buy them hah!

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Got my wheels back today, Im real stoked with them!

Big shout out to fellow OS member XSVWGN for hooking me up some volk centres at a sweet price.

Just spent 3hrs out in the garage fitting them up.. it was only -2 degrees out in the garage had to wait half an hour for my hands to thor out so i could type.. anyway pictures!

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Already had some 195/45r15 good years for the front (left) and managed to track down some 205/45r15 toyos for the rear (right)

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Fitted up, ill be running some 15mm spacers up front if anyone has a pair they want to part with?

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Time to dig this thread up from the dead, nothings been happening.. still sorting the wheels etc.

Found a bit of motivation today.. cut out the spare tyre well to make way for the drop tank and make it easier to fabricate the new rear towers.

Got it cut out..

IMG_1169 by postlematt, on Flickr

but wouldnt it wouldnt drop.

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because of these suckers, this was welded to the front, the panhard rod mount bracing

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and this little bastard mount at the back behind the rear numberplate valance..

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Couldnt get a grinder in there

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Finally got it out

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Oh harro hilux diff.. i also found a 4.1 ratio diff head.. finally..

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Started working out the clearnces for the rear shocks. between the calipers, diff mounting brackets and chassis rails theres farrrk all room..

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Hey man, how much did it cost you to get your new lips spun up? are they steel? ive run into a few issues with my new alloy lips/barrels i got made up for my ta22 and i think im just going to have to fork out to have them remade.

Cheers

Matt

Ive just bought another w55 with 160km on it, i want to swap out the rear position shifter housing to a mid position shifter housing of one of my spare w55s, can anyone recumbent a good sealant i can use or should i just make up a gasket out of some gasket paper?

Cheers

Matt 

are you going to ask for some compensation from the company that did them? seems like its going to cost you a shitload more in headaches and money that it was to widen them in the first place! 

I'll see how the new centres look when they arrive and if I'm still in the same predicament with those thats when I'll get my engineer to call the company, they'll be able to explain the problem and the work involved to remedy the problem along with cost at which point ill see if there will be anything in the way of compensation.

Can you sandwich the centre in between the two barrels?

I could do this but it would throw out all my widths and offsets by about 15-20mm as these wheels were made specifically to fit the ta22 with the shortened hilux diff and mx7* front brakes and callipers, disks etc, also the width as it is now means i can get cert with decent tyres and not have to switch them out afterwards.

the centres would still need to be redrilled or slotted in order to clear the rear barrel and front lip radius's as even though the centre is sandwiched between the two lips the current bolt hole pcd's left as they are would still foul on the inner barrel and outer lips.

also the original inner barrels from the existing 2 piece wheels that have been machined down would also need re-drilling as they're still running the original bolt pcd's.

i thought i could get away with not having to do anything to the fronts but the cap screws foul on the new outer lips  (I'm running 8mm caps as the original 12pt bolts were 8mm).

I think ill just wait until these other centres show up to see if i can make them work or not thats when ill seek some compensation to cover some of the cost to invovled to make the wheels work.

Cheers

Matt

So went into blacks fasteners and bought some m8 caps and nuts, drilled 4 holes in one of the outer lips thats going on the front (using original inner barrel which has had front lip machined off, not a new barrel).

looked like the nuts might just fit hard up on the inner barrel with one side linished, but the cap screw head fouls on the outer radius of the front lip.

Im looking to buy some other centres off a fellow OS member with the hope the the outer bolt pcd is a few mm lower.

If this isnt the case then maybe ill have get the original bolt hole welded up on the centres and drill new ones to suit a 6mm cap this also means id have to weld up the holes and drill new ones in the originl front inner barrels.

The only other option is sloting the original holes but this is far from ideal, i dont really want brand new custom wheels that have been done dodgy.

This is starting to turn into a bit of a headache..