matt_spitfire

Problem solved, excess vacuum inside the intake manifold.

4agze gurus: Anyone have any idea what may be causing this sound? It’s coming from the intake manifold on a ae101 4agze map model engine. Sounds like a pipe trying to suck up fluid.. 

please note engine always has an air filter on it just removed to record the video. 

Only makes the noise on idle after cold start knocks off. Seems to disappear when’s revs are on an comes back when revs drop.

video: https://youtu.be/_u0iICeAu_c

Spotted on my trip last year to LA and Mexico late last year. there were hundreds of yank tanks and VWs as well as the Toyota museum in Torrence, LA. (of which i have tons of photos) but these are a few of the old school jappas i saw getting round on the street.

The cars dont rust rust in mexico.. the paint just gets baked off and they get the aged patina suface rust.. theres all sorts of yank tanks, camaros, mustangs, t-birds ect just sitting in peoples yards and on the side of the road..

Mexico..

Toyota stout work ute

Dirty te70's..

A couple in LA.

On 29/04/2017 at 17:39, gaijin909 said:

Matt please mention what power train is planned to go in??

Beams?

No 3sge although it was a serious consideration, its quite a tall motor and i would have had a few clearance issues ect..

How ever i did do this in December when i got back from Mexico.

Problem solved! Black and white wire was the answer, has 12v only when in the start position. Admin delete if required

Hey team, I'm just finishing up the wiring on a 4agze.

Ive got one of the easy wire looms. 

It basically goes like this.. 4agze loom 5 wires, 3 of them I need to hook up to my factory ignition switch which has four wires so should be pretty straight forward

1. Blk/red wire on factory ignition switch has constant power with ignition on and off and doesn't lose power when starter cranks - I've  hooked this up to yellow constant wire on 4agze loom with 5a inline fuse. 

2. Blk/white wire on factory ignition switch Has 12v when ignition starter cranks.

3. Blk/yellow on factory ignition switch Has 12v when ignition is on in acc's position and drops to about 9v when starter cranks.

4. Blu/red on factory ignition switch Has 12v with ignition on and drops to 0v when starter cranks.

and finally we arrive to my question,  there is a small black wire on the 4agze loom which is the starter signal for the ecu I assume this is for the cold start injector.. Basically I'm just after confirmation which wire I should hook into on my factory ignition switch for it to get the right signal when the starter is cracking over? 

The two wires on the 4agze loom I havnt mentioned are for the alternator and fuel pumps so don't need any info on these.

cheers!

- matt

the engine mount brackets look ok, sometimes those cortina style engine mounts are too soft depending on the rubber

the gearbox x member may need more strength if its 3mm. hard to judge that till its bolted in

Cheers Cletus, I'd just be getting the engine mounts and rubbers not the gearbox crossmember

Im looking at buying some engine mounts for my ta22 from KE Conversions in aus, he uses 3mm plate can these be certified?

Link for mounts here: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/61198-4age-to-ke70-ke30-ke20-and-ta22-mounting-kits/

Cheers!

does anyone know the minimum thickness of steel plate required for engine mounts to pass cert, is it 3mm? looking an buying some pre fabricated ta22 engine mounts.

Cheers

flikr wont let me upload images to forums now can anyone give me a good recommendation for an app i can use to upload and code images for a forum? cheers

Is there any interest in my mighty 2tg out if this thing? Going a different route so maybe up forsale.

Some deets:

2tgeu converted to twin side draft

Mikuni solex twin side drafts with custom linkage set up and ramflo filters

Custom extractors

New leads

New dizzy cap

New oil

Can come with 3tgte flywheel, clutch, bell housing or 2t flywheel clutch also a pare motor 2x spare EFI I take manifolds, complete EFI engine

Loom and multiple

Starters ect

Let me know if you're interested as need to free up some space and funds for new engine conversion.

Cheers

Is there any interest in my mighty 2tg out if this thing? Going a different route so maybe up forsale.

Some deets:

2tgeu converted to twin side draft

Mikuni solex twin side drafts with custom linkage set up and ramflo filters

Custom extractors

New leads

New dizzy cap

New oil

Can come with 3tgte flywheel, clutch, bell housing or 2t flywheel clutch also a pare motor 2x spare EFI I take manifolds, complete EFI engine

Loom and multiple

Starters ect

Let me know if you're interested as need to free up some space and funds for new engine conversion.

Cheers

hows this coming along matt? that colour looks so sweet man

Hey man, sorry i havnt been on here in months!, project is on hold at the moment while i source some parts for it.. theoretically i could put it through cert now but i would have to get it recerted once the alternative parts arrive. it starts stop and goes though!

Hows your project coming along? I saw youve been hitting up strungout and papa roach in the states, id give my left nut to go do that shit!

Has anyone applied for an exemption through NZTA when no plates or previous history of registration in NZ are available for the vehicle?

Got my change of ownership letter of interest for the police but still can find out what my celicas old plates were..

Got told that if i cant find and history on my car then i can apply for an exemption at $184 p/h to process with no guarantees that it will be approved or how many hours it might take..

Cheers in advance

i saw something on facetube the other day where they just used that real fine steel wool and it looked like it worked, havnt tried it yet. was guna try it on the shower first .

I also saw this video, link below..

I got a mate to bring a ta22 front bumper over from aus, they just bought it over as excess luggage when they flew i think it was roughly $100-140 something like that..

Hey man, what was the issue with your old wheels? just that there was no load rating, did this mean you could take the car through cert on them?

Cheers

Matt

Theres a frosty here in Nelson who has a mint daily driven ke70 gl sedan, i see it most days so ill have to grab a pic on my phone.

Also my grandad in the UK has an E Type Jag (hard top) sitting in his shed, i remember him taking me for a burn around London when ever i was back there for a visit as a kid, used to reek of petrol fumes.. Loved it!

Hes still got it, i was hoping to inherit it as im the only member of the family who likes working cars but last time i talked to him he was thinking about selling it so he could turn his garage into a pool house.. fingers crossed that does happen..

Mint cheers! Wish I could say i need them because of a significant increase in hp but it's jus because I've replaced the t50 with a w55 and the series diff with the hilux diff, future proofing I guess haha

I know this has probably already been asked and answered a number of times but Ive had to resort to using my phone as my computer packed up so it's a mission to dig through this thread.

In regards to drive shaft loops.. Do you need a loop for every universal joint in the drive shaft?

I've had a new drive shaft made up, it's 2 piece the front section has a uj on the gbox yoke, the rear section of the drive shaft has a uj on the front flange behind the centre bearing and another on the rear flange where it bolts up to the dif.

My understanding is the loop is to prevent the drive shaft digging into the ground and causing the car to roll if the uj lets go, if the rear uj on the diff flange lets go the drive shaft will just drag as opposed to catching the ground an rolling the car.

So can i get away with 2 loops? one on the front section of the drive shaft within 150mm of the uj and another on the rear section of the drive shaft just behind the centre bearing?

Cheers

Matt

No worries man give me a shout if you have any questions.

Not sure if your rails are the same as mine but on my rails I had to give the head of the threaded pin that bolts the rail to the body work a bit of a whack with a punch and hammer as it fouled slightly on the head of the roller (this was only for my rear quarter window rails though not the door rails).

Cheers

Matt

pretty sure these are the ones your after in 25mm best to go into bunnings and have a look if you decide to go this route.

http://www.bunnings.co.nz/cowdroy-replacement-wheel-arrow-2pk_p00518657