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I don't see how it con be comparable weight wise as you have to add more things to the system ,motors, batteries, cable etc. All you save wight on are pulleys which wouldn't weigh too much anyway

yea looking at some big brushed motors you can get some that weigh approx 10kgs and will output 34HP peak on a 72 volt power source so easily big enough to spin a supercharger, would be the batteries that would hold it back from being effective.

If you ran it off a dedicated battery bank not being charged by alternator then it would not take any power away from the engine? possibly good in a drag race situation, the little time you would need it would mean that you could run smaller motors and stress them more, still weigh a lot more though.

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KK-Kolonel explains in in depth (this is for what the ratings mean and the effect they have)

Waste of money, basically they will never flow enough air and actually be restrictive as the revs get up, you could possibly make one that flowed enough air but then there would be huge losses involved in generating the power needed at the alternator then powering an electric motor so would be far less effective than a engine driven supercharger (and would probably cost a hell of a lot more).

Cheers for that, yea i think 1/4 bumpers with over riders would look quite good on the front and fit in with the shaped area that im assuming is where the number plate will end up.

You might not even have to curve the ends around if you put some of the little sticking out bits on the end (not sure of the correct name for them but they look like this)

if they are stuffed you may as well give it a go.

There's a bit of bog in there yeah but when i use that body ill end up modifying it anyway, they had a lot of bog in them from factory.

Yea, the new car should start bringing it along nicely, would be keen as to check out your car aswell, i'm only just round the corner.

I know, its amazing how much space cars take up when you dismantle them, the garage was nice and tidy but now i have huge piles of stuff to sort out and because parts are not all that common in nz i don't want to throw away any of the original stuff even if its fairly knackered and i wont ever use it.

Hopefully once this one is on the road it will seem more worthwhile rather than the piles of parts just getting in the way.

hey are you tom? I think i went to ANI with you.

this wall looked fairly familiar

Okay so a couple of months ago through the club i received an email about a project that was for sale, considered finding out more at the time but for some reason i didn't. Anyway the other day i received another email saying the project was going to go up on trade me for $1 reserve so i rang the guy and found out the project was a very reasonable price so went and checked it out on Friday said id take it then and there and picked it up yesterday.

Its a SE5a just like the other 2 but the body was damaged in storage while the guy was cleaning up the chassis so he cut it down to make it into a convertible

Engine has oversize pistons and just recently had the heads off and checked etc, also has electronic ignition which is good as it would be one of the first things id do to it.

as you can see the chassis is very clean, and colourful

It has the 4 speed with electronic overdrive as well as a Nardi steering wheel

The original rims are also in very good condition.

Plans;

As the rego on this is on hold unlike the other one which is dead i will be using this chassis/drive-train/engine with the green body and interior.

The plan is to get a road legal scimitar for as little money as possible (so sticking with the NA essex for now)

I shouldn't have to buy too many new parts as buy the looks of it out of the two cars i at least have one good set of everything.

New things i am definitely going to buy;

Wiring, i could attempt to just wire the cars with existing wiring but i don't want to risk it, for the money i would spend doing it myself it would be stupid to leave the dodgy wiring it has now in it.

Radiator the radiators were crap form new so i'm on the look out for something out of a later model car to use.

Window seals these could become potentially very expensive but i know someone who my old man sold a set to years ago very cheap that i might be able to buy back as he hasn't used them yet.

Ill have to do something about the paint on the green car but i don't want to spend huge money on it and will do most if not all of it at home, im not aiming for an excellent finish as being a fiber glass car it will crack in a few years no mater how well you paint it.

There will be more things to add to the list but those are the main things im thinking about right now

Cheers for that information, although i think ill keep the front standard for now at least on the road car for ease of completion and the fact that i don't want to mess up the body for the road car.

Dont know, I rung up the appropriate agencies and they told me it didnt need signing off by anyone. I queried it as I thought that sounded wrong but they assured me as long as it wasnt a commercial vehicle I was in the clear

This is very true i was talking to some people that had a motor home and how they had to get it certified and the cost involved etc. The max weight limits that are stamped on those plates attached to them mean nothing legally.

It is genuine seeing as 3m own K+H now so yea its probably good quality.

what thegreatestben said just its just been rebranded / now owned by them.

the rules may have changed since this was written but might be something to check http://www.lvvta.org.nz/ (click on the 'certed' link and then the stripped interiors shortcut)

They even give specifics as to which rules apply.

After i got the second body into its new home in the backyard i started completely striping it out, thinking that i was going to use it and that i would redo everything so that it was perfect. However once i reached the final stages and was removing the head lining i found that the A-pillar has rust in it. Reliant scimitars go have fiberglass bodies but they also have steel in places and water causes it to rust and the only way you know its bad it when it splits the glass so that its visible. I would not be happy just covering it up (you wouldn't be able to see it as its not visible from the outside and the trim covers it inside) so would mean i would have a huge task to undertake cutting the fiberglass, removing the steel, fitting new steel and then fiber glassing it back up, something I don't want to do. So the first body will be used and the second one will be kept as a future race car project.

Anyway today i organized one half of the front suspension so that it can be blasted and then painted. I have decided to do one half at a time so that i have the other side to copy and make re assembly easy.

I became a member of the scimitar club a while ago and have met a number of people with lots of usefull information, one person in the club has lowered the car to the specified 'factory specs' (they left the factory a few inches higher than what is stated) and it looks very good, especially because it uses the same shocks and springs, just somethings are flipped upside down and left to right but more on that after i get the assemblies cleaned up.

I also have a second pair of doors from the second body i brought that are in far better condition than the first and are also manual winding so no dodgy electrics to hassle me with.

I considered shaving the chrome handles and running solex locks but i have decided on a far better way and will keep the chrome handles for looks while running key-less entry for security, not that i plan on leaving it anywhere that it might be nicked but just for peace of mind i would like it to be a bit more difficult than a screwdriver in the keyhole.

Also i have found out that i can run Peugeot 505 front ventilated disks on the front using the same mounting and caliper, as all it needs is a spacer made for it as it is a 2 piece casing.

If you know anybody in the states a SC off a ford Thunderbird might be an option? its made for a 3.8 V6 and is a scroll type supercharger. I have one for the scimitar once i finally get around to buying a 3.8 for it.

Like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EATON-M9 ... ccessories

No idea how much the sc12/14's cost in comparison though.

Is this the one in Royal Oak? Has a gloss black hardtop and the sign on it says $15k? Also saw it at the Ellerslie car show for sale a few months back.

They were stuck on the scimitar and i had been bashing them for ages with two mini sledge things then i found this;

you just slide it in between the joint and the arm and do it up on the end of the thread and it pops out (i started the nut again just by hand so it had something to sit in)

in 5 minuets both were out, far better than a fork, i don't know where you get the tool from though.

So i decided that the supercharger was a very good idea and brought it,

and also picked up a little intercooler it will be fine for my situation just have to decide where i want to mount it.

Yea iv removed it but for the moment im keeping all the stuff as it owes me basically nothing and at some time in the future im getting another chassis for the second body so might chuck it in there.

went and picked up another body from Opitiki on Saturday might use this one as its pretty straight, no major cracks in the fiberglass or anything.

Also been offered a supercharger from a guy in the club at a good price its for a 3.8 Holden v6 and im definitely going down the 3.8 Holden V6 route now so have to decide whether or not to buy it.

discussion

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Not much progress lately been and joined the scimitar club. Met someone who created a 3.8L fuel injected Essex v6, decided i am definitely going down the 3.0 holden ecotec v6 route, also figured out how to lower the car very nicely keeping all the steering geometry in check. Brought a gearbox today its some sort of 5spd supra box, has been striped down and is in good condition. A few crappy cellphone pics.