phr34kr

yea trademe looks like the place to buy big cable, the amp wiring kits seem to be a good price and they go up to 0 gauge, $80 for 5 meters seems to be a pretty good price, for relays try these

http://www.surplustronics.co.nz/shop/product-RL0210.html $4.50 each but not sure on the quality

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Antiques-collectables/Food-drink/Coke/auction-346062863.htm

Win?

Yea he has stroked the essex to 3.8 ltr and has it running in a Reliant Scimitar, I have lost his number but will try and find his email and pm you that, im not certain of what he used but I belive he did mention chev rods and jb pistons, he built his with quite a high CR though.

Guy from the scimitar club went to 3.8ltr fuel injection and seems to be very reliable, he runs i think series 2 Holden coils, ecu etc. He does have a bit of hardware that allows him to program his own chips for the ecu however. He has a chopped up burton power triple webber manifold as part of his injection set up however I don't believe he ever ran a carb on it.

Put rear of the bike up on something so that the engine is horizontal again and see if that fixes the issue?

just a board there is a list of components needed here;

https://github.com/nitrousnrg/puma/raw/ ... %20BOM.csv

although im unsure on how to figure out quantities needed?

so are these in the states or nz? do we have to join diyefi or can we just order though fb, keen to have a play.

Definitely keen on one just show me where to pay.

iv heard the ether myth and had it explained to me as it washes the oil from the cylinders, but as long as you turn the engine over a few times before using it, its fine to use, even on small engines which seem to be what this myth centres around, my grand father has a lawn mower that's around 50 years old that he has always started this way (pulled over then ether to start) and no problems to speak of.

Iv heard of the wooden piston as well as single oversized cylinders for cheap fixes before sale.

the last owner of one of my scimitars lost the the oddball sump bung for the essex v6, used a spark plug with the eletrode bashed out and brazed over, works well.

Blowby? It seemed to be very white smoke, you sure you dont have a leak in you brake booster allowing brake fluid to enter your engine?, however you would also see lots of white smoke out of the exhaust? i remember you having issues with your sump leaking oil, this could also be related to your sump being pressurised by blowby? has the engine been rebuilt? has it been run in and have the rings beded in well? apparently its common to get quite alot of blowby on newly built engines while the rings are bedding in.

A quick google search shows that most coil resistances are well above 100 ohms so I=V/R 12/100=0.12A

looking here http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm the table says that 23AWG wire is good for power transmission of 0.79A

I realize that the voltage will probably be higher than 12v but still it should easily carry this current, am i working out the draw of the realy's coil correctly are there other things i am not taking into account?

Does anyone know the current relays draw for switching? cat6 network cable is 23 guage so bigger than cat5e but not by much.

i believe reliant used a Mini indicator assembly, mine seems a little worn out so i was wondering if there are any more modern or reliable alternatives, the indicator assembly needs to be able to be clamped to the steering column looks like this;

also does anyone know the minimum gauge wiring needed to switch relays, i was thinking of using network cable (as this would be a really clean solution to my problem) but i am unsure if it will handle the current?

Took the dash out today wasted a lot of my time attempting to find screws holding the crash pad on that are mentioned in workshop manual but not included in diagrams (turns out they don't exist reliant used double sided tape from factory) decided to leave the crash pad in for now and take the face of the dash off to check out the wiring.

there is a lot of wiring for such a simple car but ill hopefully be able to simplify this hugely.

its no wonder the dash cracks around the gauges a flimsy plastic face is holding all the weight of the gauges and just sits on top of a ~8mm glass fiber back plate, i would have at least thought they would have used it to support some weight, but no.

okay so did a bit of work on it today i have exams coming up but i think studying through the week cars etc on weekends is fair enough, anyway i got the dremel out and attacked the inner sills the drivers side took about 45 minutes but luckily the left passengers side was a lot easier as the steel had been glassed in, in a different way.

reliant has been taking lessons form UncleJake i think...

as you can see these steel supports are gone, i think taking the time to cut them out and replace with new ones will be worth it

tomypg's car redlines at 7k and seeing as the sc12 can rev twice that i thought that cam pulleys would be a good option as they are easy to find and cheap as well as the benefit of a toothed belt.

Started having a good look at the body and noticed that the inner sill had started splitting and after having a short poke around there was a couple of handfuls of rust on the ground, Being a fiberglass bodied car they don't rust but they have steel fiberglassed into certain areas to help with rigidity. So i spent most of yesterday attempting to remove the steel, its turning out to be a lot harder than i imagined as i can not get any tool into the top of the inner sill to cut out the fiberglass so have had to resort to prying/ripping it out bit by bit.

The body is off the chassis so it makes access a bit better but still has fuck all room in there.

the end bit of one of the sections the end brace bit is exposed so there was no hope for it not rusting.

isnt that where 'intercooler' came from? I heard that FMIC's and all car ones are actually supposed to be called aftercoolers...

Heard this also.

also thinking about it i'm fairly sure

Turbo----> intercooler---->SC---->intercooler---->TB

wouldn't work as the TB may be forced open however

Turbo----> intercooler---->TB-->SC---->intercooler---->Engine

Would work wouldn't it? running the turbo charger before the SC is i believe what VW did on their twincharger 1.4 tsi and it looks like they used intercoolers between each stage, if this is how a modern engine is designed from factory it must be a pretty good option.

How about running 2 intercoolers im sure planes used to run this set up but with 2 SC instead of the turbo.

Turbo----> intercooler---->SC---->intercooler---->TB

Managed to get a few mates around yesterday to move the bodies around, its amazing how many people are busy when you mention moving car bodies

I'm going to use the original scimitars body with the new chopped up scimitars chassis + drive train and i will keep the separate bare body i brought awhile ago for a future project.

The green body needs sanding back and painting as well as a few fiberglass repairs so it needed to be moved under cover, the other body and the original chassis in need a a few minor rust repairs was being stored in the shelter station so i moved these out and am storing the spare body on the old chassis to help straighten out the body (it had been sitting on the ground before i brought it and had a slight bow to it)

Once these were out i moved the green body in and supported up off the ground i will be able to slowly work on sanding it back and repairing it without having to worry about weather.

I have quite a number of sheets of plywood to lay down as a floor to keep it tidy and clean inside. The majority of work on this should start towards the end of the year after i have finished my exams.

This is so so awesome love it!

Thinking of selling the supercharger to get money to go towards a daily driver, anyone interested in a m90 in good condition with a rather large throttle body?

(will put a FS up when i fully decide to sell it)

How long can you run the hairdryers for before they crap out? i wouldn't imagine it would be very long