phr34kr
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Posts
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Posts posted by phr34kr
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Too late, no steering, brakes or seats. But i have considered it.
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So still carrying on with the strip down of this thing, I'm very happy that I did as there have been a few surprises not too major but still nice to know about.
Dash out
Boot/boot liner out
Rear guards and bumper off
Front guards off
Rear frame off
front frame off
will hopefully have the tub removed from the chassis tomorrow then I can begin the restoration, I will be getting all the suspension components sandblasted and more than likely the chassis as well. I have a set of bushes for the car and will replace all the old ones while it is apart, as well as ball joints etc. I have also noticed a crack on one of the top wishbones, they are pressed steel and have the pushrods for the shocks welded to them in such a way that cracking is quite common
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Okay so had a poke around this afternoon to check out the extent of rust in the sills
....yeah its pretty gone, Jacking points are still fine (made from thicker steel with less chance of getting water trapped in them.
So to replace these I will pull the body off the chassis, luckily it turns out that its really easy to pull apart SS1's.
nose cone and headlight surround off.
I love how the body panels are held on, Torx screws which are awesome, and plastic wing nuts (no rusted on nuts make me a happy person
)Oh and also turns out the quaterlight/window frames aren't rusted out near the mounts, they are brand new
they just havent been bolted in properly/at all -
Lownslow The tub is hand laid fiberglass, the wings are a composite plastic/resin I believe and the boot and bonnet are vacuum moulded fiberglass, the chassis on these are a really awesome bit of engineering, German made, hence the reason the British body panels fit horribly.
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Not too much over the starting price, I think it was a good score, but that probably means im sick in the head. Iv had a look over the CA and though its been sitting in a damp area and the turbo is seized, it still turns over and looks really clean under the oil filler so hopefully it shouldn't need too much work to get running. The 1600 CHV thats in it at the moment seems good, starts well with no smoke and sounds okay so ill keep that in for a while, being only ~800kg it should still be good fun.
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So spied this on trademe a few weeks ago, I have wanted a SS1 for some time now and this fit the bill nicely, It's a NZ new 1988 1600 model, meaning that it has a 5 speed box but unfortunately the non galv. chassis. The previous owner brought it for a racecar project but didn't get too far with it. Along with the car and the spares it also came with a CA18DET, top mount manifold, and the loom, a few ECU's etc. Plans are to get it back on the road (reg on hold) and have somehting i can use for reliant club events etc.
List of things needing to be done;
Fix the window frames, these commonly rust out and fall out, it has happened to some extent on this car but unsure how bad it is yet.
fix rust in the front of the sills, this seems to be the only real rust on the car that I have seen.
Refit original alloys (came with car) , the ones on it now rub on the rear wheel wells (wrong offset). This also solves the low tyre tread issue.
Find out all the places its leaking from, the de-humidifier is in there at the moment to try draw all the water out of the carpet.
Possibly get the bonnet, boot and hardtop painted, the paint is either in quite a bad state (bonnet and boot) or faded (hardtop).
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I know of someone putting one of these 12Kw brushless electric motors into an aluminium space framed off road go kart. 100Nm of torque.
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/EMS-PMACDSBL350.html
(If thats not enough power he said he would buy another one and run two motors)
He's planning on getting a large li-ion battery pack for it and then aiming to get it road registered.
Its not a cheap exercise, but should be a load of fun once finished.
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If you are having issues with 6v get one of these,
then you can step up your DC voltage source to whatever you wish (i would suggest regulating it before the boost converter) . Some guy was selling them on trademe however they were about $25 each + shipping. They are good however (needed 3 on very short notice) was running a netbook (19v) off a 7.2v battery with ease.
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What about those small disposable gas bottles for welding? Cheap enough and small enough that you could easily hide a couple in the car.
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Have a set of these:
I know they Just fit on crx/civic springs, due to them only having the single hook on one end, if you want to borrow them pm me Im in Epsom.
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you want Km/h you have Meters and seconds so 400m/28s = 14.29m/s
14.29 * 60 =857.4 meters/minute * 60 = 51444 meters/hour /1000 = 51.444Km/h
400/37 = 10.81 *3600 ("60*60") = 38.919Km/h
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set up a system before using a webcam and a pc, recorded and sent photos to an email as soon as it sensed motion, saved a lot of disk space compared to constant recording, also the email function was good as could be alerted on your smart phone as soon as anything happened in the shed. All the software was free and just used an HD webcam for good picture quality.
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Is that an Essex or one of the slightly newer variants? If it's an Essex i have a workshop manual covering them and would be more than happy to scan the relevant pages and send them to you.
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i suppose not was aiming on using 2, thats 80amp continuous, although i have many more available (another 10 or so) i could just wire in parallel, i wonder how good those deal extreme motor controllers are? I at least know the victors are reliable and have proved their stuff in competatitve robotics working much harder than they should, as well as the fact they are available for me to use for free along with the motors and gearbox.
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Hmm actually i think i have somthing that would make my life even easier two of these http://www.andymark.com/product-p/am-0255.htm into one of these http://www.andymark.com/product-p/am-0145.htm controlled by two of these http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/IFI-V884.html would only need to sort out mounting which should be simple and i would have a 7 speed ev bike
need to see if i have a suitable bike lying around tomorrow. -
This is awesome. What sort of RPM do starter motors run at? Would it be possible to utilise the bikes gear shifting if it was chained to the front gear-set?
Although i do love how awesomely simple the friction drive mounting worked out.
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In regard to patents, they are only valid for a maximum of 30 years so the NSU patents would be well expired and open for anyone to copy.
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When I brought my set I found these guys seem to have a really good deal,
they seem to be a nice design and hold the spring very securely. The price is the same on TM as it is in the shop as well, they are in Onehunga.
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picture of locknuts? on the off chance they are the same as mine/ must be able to buy/make a tool for them?
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No idea why they would shell out for a PLC for controlling that stuff, easier just using an arduino and a netbook, would have been far cheaper as well.
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Correct me if I am wrong, but wouldn't you want at least decent paint under the vinyl anyway to keep rust away and for the vinyl to adhere nicely?
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D3bj47TAYiU
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Fuck yes! Like Like Like.
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Awesome car man looks great, always see it at uni.
....
)
need to see if i have a suitable bike lying around tomorrow.
Tims Reliant Scimitar SS1
in Other Projects
Posted
They are really cool little cars, I have already thrown out the idea of the CA, if I'm to do an engine swap it will be for a light 4 cylinder with an alloy gearbox behind it, should be able to loose a few KG's there.
So i got the main tub off yesterday, to give you a little bit of an idea of the light weight nature of this, a friend and I managed to lift it up above the pillars and carry it forwards with ease, there is literally almost no weight to any of these body panels.
So as you can see the rust was a little more extensive then first thought, the drivers side A pillar parted ways with the tub as it was removed. Not the end of the world as the passengers one is in quite good shape and i can just copy it.
Tub off
On the bright side, everywhere but the sills seems solid. The drivers side sill is far worse than the passengers side but still looks fairly straight forward to repair, the club does have replacement sills in stock but at almost $400 a side I think ill make the patches up myself.