LingLing

It's definitely on my to do list.

just trying to ask more reasons on this issue bro.

that will be some of your problem.. replace the bolt.

Did you use new gaskets?

No, didn't use new gaskets either. they're piece of metal like gasket, and no damage on them, why should I need to replace it?

solid lifters, so what else could cause the noise?

yeh, that could be a problem. I know in fact I miss one of the exhaust bolt.

However, I have noticed the tapping before I changed the exhaust system.

It's already leaking like a drop a two a day., i am happy with that. hopefully it won't leak like 10 drops a day?

better ideas?

Since I had this car, The 4age bluetop does have some tapping noise while it first start in cold, but when it gets warm it seems to be better. or maybe my exhaust and diff is so noisy I can't hear it.

I have done bit research and found this might be the easiest way to treat it.

http://rislone.co.nz/catalog/view/117-e ... ment-44100

Don't have the knowledge nor have the tools to replace the valve lifter yet.

don't worry. It's all fixed. I have done the tensioner as well.

see the pictures etc here.

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=32712

you guys.. I have made my mind to get rear one plastic looks the same as the front one.

Thanks for your suggestions, But I am really after what I want.

So should I get a non-damaged second hand rear bumper to get refinished?

I don't really know what my current one condition is under the paint.

No. I like plastic looking. plus already bought the front bumper new.

so in that case, option 2 is a better option?

I don't mind either way, As long as after you can't tell the difference between my new Front bumper and the Refinished rear bumper.

Really?

Awesome man. Because I went to the panel beater I know today.

He mentioned, can't return to factory plastic looking. only paint it flat black.

Ok, bit stuck.

bought new front bumper, but the rear one sold out world wide.

Now, I have to strip the paint of mine current rear bumper and refinish it to factory plastic looking

Is there any place do that?

Would it be easier to find a no damaged rear bumper with no paint coats then refinish it?

Very keen tbh.

so , Some of you might know the crank pulley came off, luckily it was resting on the underbody panel(Lucky most of this car's under body panel are still here)

Thanks for KK and OS GC guided me thru the following process.

Found the crank pulley bolt at Tama autos. bought new Alternator belt as last one was stuff while the pulley came off.

As I was already there, let's check the Time belt tensioner as well. Pulled it out, It seems to be good, except tiny bear noise.

So screw that, bought one from Now my best mate Keisuke at BNT. under 48 dollars, while repco wants 98 dollars LOL.

Cable tie is a great way to make sure your cambelt doesn't become loose after you pulled the tensioner out.

Was bit mission to get the tensioner spring back together, Then I found it's way easier to push the pulley as close as possible tight up the nut. so didn't have to stress the spring as much while putting it on. then loosen the bolt to let it adjust itself. and tight up again.

Going to torque the Tensioner and Crank pulley up soon

The following picture is pure pornography. thanks STEVE

This thing probably worth more than mine engine LOL.

Has same torque as Mitsubishi Evo and WRX STI. It beeps and vibrates like your Iphone while reach the set mark.

So Easy to do the crank pulley nut up. it's like using 1/2 drive to tight up a 10mm bolt.

Really? haha, thanks, I am so confident to do it now.

So that also means In the future if the cam belt broke, it's just inconvenience non- engine damage then.

haha, very good news.

Cheers, Sp, I have steve one over the weekend. I will see How that goes

ok, Cheers man. would like to do it tomorrow.

well, I am worried that the Belt is new abut the tensioner looks bit old.

Not sure, How can you check without pulling it out? Can I turn the engine one and see how the tensioner sound like?

Kk sorry, got you confused, The Indent is at the back pulley the Line is at front pulley. I did use the the indent for timing a while back, which worked well.

DJZ that's a random picture.

Since, I am already here.Going to do the tensioner as well Shouldn't need to remove the timing belt(new).

I had good read the manual a bit.

All I need to do is make sure the engine is at the TDC, where all the cam and crank shaft marks line up. Mark the position between belt and cams.

Pull the thing out, new one in, torque it up. 4mm free play of the belt.

Keen to give it a good go.

Sorry, should have searched bit

The internet says the dent.

I was just very confused, why the bother to have the Line there at the first place? Or Some one Made the line afterwards??

sorry just edited it.

I forgot to ask something

Which one of these mark is the timing mark? I am guessing the Dent, not the line.

Hello Boys and Girls

Any of you got a torque wrench willing to lend it to me

Got Crank Pulley bolt needs to torque it up

Sorry forgot to mention, it's 1400kg.cm or 137N.m torque required.

Yeh, forgot to mention, I have only used the ratchet to tight it up for Now. It's still loss.

But at least I should be safely move the car not driving on the road or anything.

I am going to borrow some OS GC Torque Wrench see if akl boys got one.

It's pretty much all in now.

Put it for the 1st gear,with hand brake on. Tighten up till the car wants to move a bit.

Thanks for all your help.

Was bit scary to slam it with hammer in the first place.