bsp

I agree,if you are leaving it n/a i would go for something newer/larger cap,all alloy etc,depends how much you want to spend,4ag gives pretty good bang for buck especially turbo'd.

a gze will happily make 150-180rwkw unopened(if its not a shitter)

If you have an auto shell,no tunnel mods are needed for a w series( mine sits quite low in the bay and tunnel but thats what you want anyway)

even the shifter pops up in std location

sits nice and low and back in the bay,handles mint

i had to cut all of the panels under the rad support out to fit a custom full width cooler,but retained the vertical brace and its all sweet

dont forget to suss out a hyd clutch

if you want more details just ask

cheers,

Ryan

more pics up,

bloody alternator failed on the weekend.cant win

while tuning on a cruise home it started going all over the place,lean,rich etc,then when we get home realise its not charging,now the tune is whack again

earlier in the week I decided to have a go at fixing the leaky heater core.i reckon it started cause of the cap on the alloy radiator actually holding some pressure as opposed to the dodgy original one.

Spent a couple hours mucking around with solder and the oxy trying to chase all the tiny pin holes

some were only visible once i put 15psi into it.

had it sitting in the bucket for half an hour or so at 15psi and it looked mint,

soo lush driving to work at 630am now

purchased an innovate a/f meter the other day,pretty happy with it

mounted it about a foot from the extractor flange

had some dramas with it reading hell lean but after reading the manual turns out it is VERY sensitive to exhaust leaks.

Had to pull all the manifolds off to repair the extractor flange cause it had a nice curve in it and was leaking.

first run with it all sorted showed full load/revs its running high 10 afr lol

and idling at 11-12,cruise was 11-12 also

best to have been safe than sorry thou

got 18litres per hundy on the first tank

oh and here is a pic of the ports while I had the manifold off

second startup,only had the extractors on it here

V1qGHshgOPo

dont trust your mechanic with your car......

09QWI8LCPNw

its all running now but the tune isnt 100% mainly due to the fact the regulator we used isnt the one the motor was originally tuned with and the extractors are seriously shit compared to what it used to have.

Im just waiting on my air/fuel meter to arrive and we are going to play round and do a bit of tuning

the last time it was dynoed it made 70rwkw on 98

it gets along pretty well in the rolla especially with the 69 spec suspension drums all round too,trackday should be hilarious

next up we had to make the old dirty extractors off the 5k fit cause we forgot to send the proper hand made 4-2-1's over

was a mish due to the motor having an adaptor/port extension plate for the weber manfold,the bolt pattern was different and the flange didnt have enough meat on it to redrill

once we got them bolted up the inlets were hitting on them!! so had to do a bit of dodgy clearencing with the grinder ans hammer for now

they will be replaced later with the proper ones with larger primaries etc

nearly done,just had to do the wiring and battery

SLOW

ALSO SLOW

FAST

SLOW

FAST

The bro got to work on the radiator and found the outlets were playing games aswell.

neither of us have tigged before so after some heated discussion I convinced him to cut the radiator up and have a go,(its his radiator anyway......

not bad for first attempt ay???

no leaks ftw

next mission was putting the engine loom in,orked out pretty good cause I managed to avoid cutting into the factory loom at al.Just had to connect up a ignition feed and the charge light from the new alternator,that was the hardest part cause the old regulator was playing games and making the light stay on once the regulaor was in the bin it was mint

Now have a solid 14.5v at idle

mounted the fuel pump under the boot to keep it hidden and noise down,plus there wont be any terrible fuel smell in the car 24/7 like the escort haha

Runs a vl pump,pre filter throgh to a efi filter then into 5/16 bundy tubeup to the front

Had to run a new line cause the early rolla doesnt have a return to the tank

got lucky with the outlet,had the tank out ready to take and get welded but found it had a threaded bung in the bottom,got a speedflow fitting to just screw in - easy!

machined the fitting and put a short piece of tube inside so that the pickup was a few mm off the bottom of the tank,stop shit getting sucked in

From the people who brought you the 4ag escort http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=17192 and the hayabusa starlet http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=17181

behold the latest project from the bigstickerperformance garage.....

1969 KE10 Corolla

3rd owner,with what I believe to be 94000km on the clock

It is Completely original,the first owner kept blankets on the seats from new,interior is PERFECT

will get pics up soon

The 2nd owner had it for a year or 2 but didnt drive it much,kept in a garage

It has the factory optioned headrests and all the badges,e.g the ami badges and the racv (australia) tag on the grill

My bro (toyabusa) had this 4k stitting around since the upgrade to the busa motor and it wasnt worth selling having had soo much work done.We were going to put it in the blue ke20 but since found this mint ke10.Drove it about 50km (nearly fell asleep at the wheel between gear changes) then got to work!

motor specs are pretty straightforward:

standard bore,still 1298cc!! (in order to compete in the 1300cc rally class)

crazyport head with big valves and springs

12:1 comp

cam,not terribly lumpy,was designed to keep a broad torque curve to suit rallying rather than just outright power

shotpeened and linished rods,factory pistons

de burred crank

modded oil pump,runs 70+psi

efi hardware 48mm throttle bodies

rb20 injectors

mitsi ignitor and coil

lumenition optical pickup in the dissy

link ems

4-1 extractors(for now)

2.25" exhaust

has made 70rwkw at 8200rpm (over double the factory figure )

Before throwing it in the car the bearings had to be checked.The motor had done 2 years worth of rally events and it got punished,sitting on the rev limiter at 8200rpm between corners etc

mains

the wear pattern was a surprise but after checking the clearance with plastiguage the new bearings had a similar marking (only less) before the engine had even turned.....

bigends

pretty amazing how clean the motor was,this is how it looked without any cleaning first,2 years of racing on dirt with regular oil changes,mobil 1 full synthetic from day 1,must be good?

engine all ready to go

time to get rid of the dirty old k motor

quick clean up of the bay

test fit

this is the difference in postion of the mounts after uprighting the motor and getting it sitting down and back as much as possible

had to upright the motor to get room for the mainifold

working out what clutch/flywheel combo to use to get the early ke10 box to bolt up to the 4k.The 4k flywheel was prefered because that was part of the package,has been balanced and engine was tuned with that on it etc etc,the only difference dimension wise is the ringgear is about 3mm offset,should still line up with the sarter plenty

Ended up using the 4k flywheel and pressure plate with the original (lol) ke10 clutch plate,it has a tiny spline compared to the later k series boxes.....fingers crossed....

job done

bro gettting technical with some fancy instrument/tool?

fast alternator for extra powers

dog leg the stick due to the uprightness of the new motor,

did some hungover maintainence on sunday to get ready for the ngonglodesh hillclimb in rotos next weeeknd

also decided to see what whitewalled semi slicks would look like after seeing old n rusty's ute

As most of you probaly know I had the esky at the o/s trackday 13th

Had a mean time,got some awsome shots of the car and a bit of video cheers to toyabusa

only had a couple of problems at the track although they kept me away from socialising for most of the day

overfilled the oil cause i was nervous after my bros car shat itself(toyabusa)

the engine didnt like it and spat it out

tyres wore out

I had made these double swaybar mounts and decided to use the nolathane generic saddles

they obviously could not handle the strain from such hard braking

this is the reason my wheels were rubbing hardout and kinked my guards

also was causing some crazy wheel shakes under braking

I will have to fit some castor rods like these to fix this properly

I got the car tuned again after changing the wastegate actuator,its a rb25 turbo one modified to fit,runs 12psi off the tap,on the tap it an 20 but tapered off towards redline to about 18psi

seems that the turbo is maxed out at this power(185rwkw with wheelspin)

back on the 7th I raced at taupo with the toyota club,it was wet so the car was pretty loose

it was a good day to learn the car,everything happens at a slower pace

had a bit of trouble with the fuel system not keeping up with the engine so we changed the fuel return from the engine to go back to the surge tank instead of the fuel tank.we were hitting 24 pound in the morning so had to wind it back abit!

this is my bro having a blat (toyabusa)

I wouldnt be too worried at the track,I have a pretty bad record of catastrophic failures at the track!

I agree with you about the coupe,when i first purchased the car I didnt plan on such a major project so didnt give a shit about getting a 4 door,they were much cheaper than 2 doors in aus

I wouldnt mind building up a mean 2 door chassis with cage,4 link etc and swap the running gear over

Managed to get the car tuned once again although we had some trouble with the light pressure actuator.The boost was all over the place and would only hold 12psi to redline even thou it peaked at 14 earlier in the run.Made 150rwkw,looks like I need cams to get anymore revs out of it

I knocked up an air box the other day,once I find another actuator it will be getting tuned to 20psi.Hoping to race at the next track day

car was finally ready to hit the track

got some toyo r888's for it

had some issues at the track after a couple of runs

car got hot and started to run bad and the oil pressure dropped

this is some of the damage,pistons had cracked lands,crank is stuffed,blocks appears to be dead aswell

I parked the car up for a year while I collected parts to build a solid 4agte

t3 camgears

spool h-beam rods

alloy rad

lightened and wedged crank 600g less than factory

This engine now has:

Lightened crank (600g saving)

H beam rods (250g total saving)

acl race series pistons (300g total saving)

arp head studs

arp rod bolts

arp main studs

1mm oversize exhaust valves (camry)

toda valve springs

acl race bearings

toda cambelt

gt28rs turbo

custom plenum

microtech mtx8

In total I have saved 1150g of reciprocating weight plus 4kg off the flywheel

hoping to spin this to 8k with cams and 30psi+ with a larger turbo

while the engine was out I made up a shortshifter similar to this one

engine back in once again

I ran this engine in with a light tune.I only had a 5psi actuator on the car so it was tuned to that.Made 110rwkw at 5-6psi

had been driving the car around a fair bit until one day was cruising at 100 or so a an chopped it down and gave it a squirt

fark knows what the go was with that??

had to find a clutch and figured it would be rude to put the old heavy std flywheel in so grabbed this 4kg one

I had the shits with still having oil leaks in the esky even after changing the engine,g/box and diff

so I made a new sump,features include holding more oil,and not leaking

bling bling zinc plating

more bling

while off the road i wanted to fix the front suspension

Found a coilover kit for 200us with springs of my spec so ordered that and got to work

stoked to find koni yellow adjustibles inside!

machined up a sleeve to hold the thread sleeve,also takes up the difference in diameter

machined up a sleeve to fit the top hat to the shock

springs are 350lb/inch,which was my best guess,pretty close,could go slightly stiffer later on

this is the original fuel system,I got this with the engine package,not really happy with the way it looks but its a start.Runs a holley blue lift pump and a walbro pressure pump,surge tank must be 10liters!

I started to think about how I was goin to stop this thing

The car had slotted rotors when I got(std size) and were ok at the time

My mate Huw happened to offer a set of ba xr8 calipers and discs to me so I said awesome why not!?

I decided to purchase new discs to go with them

They worked out a treat.Having the disc floating,sitting over the esky hub gave me the perfect offset to make up a mounting bracket out of 350 8mm plate.

I got the hubs re driled for 5 stud and a spigot made to suit the rims

At the same time I got hold of an old hilux diff.These old ones are the perfect width for an esky.Even the spring platforms lined up,drill out the spring spigot? on the paltform and it bolts in

I dont know why but I left the open centre as is the first time it went in

I dont have any pics of the diff conversion,must have been too excited

Now I needed to find a way to make these brakes work.I had to get rid of the ugly remote booster from the engine bay for room so I sussed out how to make a pedal box

clutch master to replace cable clutch

one of the two tilton masters,7/8 for the front brakes and 3/4 to power the hilux drums

balance bar

box to suit reverse mounted masters(just to make it easier)!

pedal modified to take the balance bar sleeve

I was pretty much over wasting time with the carby setup so I took it off before killing another engine.

I raced the car in a couple of autocrosses and then a 4age turbo package came up for sale with box,driveshaft,fuel system and rad all out of a mk1

I snaped that up and got to work preparing the car

welding up all the spare holes in the bay

trimed out alot of the radiator panel to fit this cooler.It has shaped end tanks to match the inner guards

painted the engine bay black,i had black avalible and it was easier than trying to match the paint

made the gearbox crossmember(now has extra webs)

got to work making an exhaust,3inch all the way baby

engine ready to drop in for the FINAL time

When i purchased the car it had reset springs with koni yellows,extractors and 14" globes.

Unfortunatly while using it as a daily I decided to turbo the old pinto

the engine already had acl std replacement pistons inside,all else standard

After finding a t25 off a silvia i noticed the manifold kinda lined up with the ports,a slab of 25mm plate and a day of learning how to use a mill I had this

heres the prototype

Because I had room and it was easy I decided to put the fuel pump in the bay

you can also see the water injection running into the plenum,not the nicest engine bay ive seen.....

Once the car was running I played with the jets almost daily until it would run as good as possible.I found a dissy with twin vac canisters,and hooked on up for boost retard.I was running 14psi fuel pressure and 7 psi boost at this stage.

Once the inevitable happened - a massively melted piston,I put a spare standard pinto in to see what it would do.When that motor blew - (cracked the std cast pistons) I had almost finished building the original motor back up to suit boost

acl pistons at +40 over

unknown lumpy cam

high volume pump

arp rod bolts and a 2mm copper headgasket finished it off,also had the head recoed and machined

I found an electronic ignition setup so had a play with that got it working with a high output coil

shit photo but thats what it ended up looking like

I guesstimate it was making around 100rwkw on a good day.It never ran properly thru all the gears,no matter what i did with jets etc.It was sweet 1st thru 3rd but once into 4th it would lean out like crazy

even had the main jet out to 2mm! at one stage.

I reckon the needle valve just coudnt keep the bowl full,even at 14psi fuel pressure