bubblegoose

providing you won't get coil bind, tyre clearance issues or the shock bottoming out then go for broke

you can buy multimeters with the same pulse/rpm function for less than the cost of a deez tach and its far more usefull

it choose a solid insert (ie time-sert) over a wire coil for any fluid fitting

just me being pedantic but hey i like to throw my 2c about occasionally

I bought a shitty one that didnt work because i wasnt running enough boost.

so an old man once told me

the lead is also a 'cushion'/lube for the valve seats so even an inlet will wear considerably faster with unleaded gas

are they fitted with an air flow meter? best tune up ever is getting theat cleaned and re-calibrated also if there is an air intake temp sensor check that, when they fail it can tell the ecu its fucking freezing and will crank the fuel up

ive spot welded a few before at work like above it takes longer to get the welder plugged in then to fizz it up, go to one of the 'better' panel shops in town as they will have a better spot welder that wont blow your trim appart

take a look down at the right hand side of the drivers floor, foot look too heavy?

my mrs car has nearly twice the frugleness when she drives than when i drive and thats both our 'normal' driving

i just want the right hoses, i know when i brought them (still have the maccas receipt from accross the road) and they are still as i brought them with the labels on (which had i looked in the shop would have seen were wrong right away)

im pretty sure they have a cork in there bum from factory too (they did on the jr50 iirc) which cokes up reeeeaaal fast

which super cheap do you work at? i brought some rad hoses that were wrong (her fault not mine honest) but i lost the receipt. can i still swap them?

/SPAM

what you want to be doing is figuring out what has changed, if it is was running fine and now isnt then there will be something blocked, moved, split, leaking etc

never hurts to clean the carb for no reason anyway

sorry i must have been asleep earlier when i said honda or 2zz what i ment was steam power

have you considered a honda motor?/2zz

its lacking nitrous

a while ago i saw a rip off version of this for sale in TM for SUUUUUPER cheap and now i cant find any trace of it anywhere. any body got any ideas who might have somethbing like this

PS its a digital ignition conversion, has a flywheel that is lighter than air and makes only enough power to run the coil

its just a difference in methods

we DO use 180 for taking back primer when trying to block some shape back into something

we also do wet sand and wet scotch but only after priming and try to keep water off the bare bog

we only use 800 for flow coating and sanding out runs and paint over 320/400/500 depending on other stz

its hard to put a label of right and wrong as there are so many different methods around and tbh its all trial and error to find which techniques suit your patience and stlye

i have a peice of steel pipe welded to mine and its more comfortable than the toptul ones

if your new extractors have a slightly different flange thickness to the intake manifold the bolts will be acting more on one that the other - ie the manifold with the thinner flange wont be squished as tight.

this

that looks like primer so if you're damn lucky its had the panelwork done underneith it

sand the brush marks out with 240 and finish with 320, then 'scrub/wash' the whole car with some red scotch and a tub of 'scuff stuff' its a preping degreasing paste that makes life oh so easy.

check for imperfections, panel wark needed fix then prime with a high solid/high build primer

sand that with 320 then clean the car down

clean the whole car again

mask the car

dust the car off with air and a tack rag

hit the whole car in 2 coats of wet on wet primer, scan again for imperfections and decide if you want to fix or continue

continue with paint or leave for a day to dry then fix bits and then attack with some 400-600 and paint

note 320 is too coarse for finish if you want to use a base and clear coat system but will be good enough with 2k

and next on tv3 Christchurch latest motorcycle drug runners, henchmen beware

nope handles are a consumable i believe

ps do cavity wax AFTER you paint, it will seep though any pin holes in the welds and make painting a mare

you should be able to squeeze in behind there (from the inside of the car) with a can of cavity wax with a straw

my favourite ^