bubblegoose

be warned, warm is good for painting but can also increase your change of runs as the paint thins when it heats up, so be sure to practice in the same conditions you will be painting and id advise getting shit set up/masked the night before and getting and early start when its cooler for painting and gets hot later one for budget bake cycle

cool shed=more time to get around the car

hot shed=dry spray around the start/finish points

no need to prime its already go magic pixie dust in the paint, the reason it says 'do not thin' is because the hammered finish paint is actually 2 types of paint in one tin and thinning can mess with the way it separates and 'hammers up'

either buy it in a spray can (looks sweet) or put it on with a medium soft small roller and do so quickly so your not rolling over paint that's started to tack off and your results should be satisfactory, i fond best results to be had when a second and third coats are done the following day

depends on the temperature, im assuming this is a garage job so ill say 15 degrees, id say leave it 15-30 minutes between coats

just give the primed panels a bit of time in the sun before working on them to bake out the moisture and you should be good to go

just seen that people have started to put usefull measurements on sprocket auctions, so now you can crack out the verniers and go nuts on trademe

the 'restrictor' in the intake is actually a diffuser and requires many more tweaks to get gains from its removal

anyway, back to the chains.

you want to order the oe honda front sprocket and a decent length chain then find a rear 428 sprocket with the same pcd and bore size as the v50, its the same as car wheels there located on the hub not the bolts which its why its better to go to a shop (for the rear sprocket atleast) where you can get a better match then a guessing game on the internet

you also get what you pay for with chains, cheap ones will stretch much faster than a good one (but you dont need a fancy gold racing chain like gail)

ps dont be affraid to leave plenty of time between coats, it helps get a flatter finish

oki doki

with straight 2k colour providing you mix each batch precisely and lay enough paint to fully cover the panel then you wont get any colour variance painting panels seperatly (unless its along time between painting days).

if your car has been outside or damp alot since you primed the guards then id sand most of it off and slap one more coat on just to help stop any moisture blisters later on

as for gun look for a second hand sata or devilbiss even a well used one sprays better than a random Chinese brand, infact i could probably prise one from a painter at work, i use my gti pro for base clear and 2k and have 2 aircaps for extra wank factor between 1k and 2k paints but its not necessary

come onto the magical facebook mr alan, you can sweet talk to me about paint if you like

watch out with that chain, when they break they fly right though the engine cases and make a bloody big oily mess.

have you taken your chain and sprockets into trevor pierce yet? the parts guy is supper helpfull and would probably send off what you have to be matched up into a working set, failing that you could get him to order a blank sprocket in the correct pitch and have it drilled to suit

timing/flywheel cover is on the left hand side (IIRC), rip that off and throw a timing light on it.

the markings should be very clear and simple (its normally even labeled TDC)

and as josh said its cdi so very unlikely its out

shouldered bolts?

find a bigger cc bike with the same or close stroke and glue the cylinder on

by glue i mean make good use of a die grinder a drill press and make sure transfer ports match up and then make a new intake for a massive carb and upgrade the trans to CV then wait...

just buy a newer 100cc cv motor and trans and weld onto fa frame

at 45mm id say things will be going wrong and open finger porting is a must 46 and barrel skirts will be like paper

max factory is only 43

ps, 95% of the issue is that tiny carb

will run but the feedback would fuck with everything, including the old lady that lives next doors pacemaker

46 is too much you wont have any barrel skirt left also ports will break though, 44 is about your limits. skirt length means zero as long as it still covers ports at tdc and doesn't hit shit at bdc. im currently fitting a $12 pitbike piston to mine which involves taking 3mm of the top of the barrel and 8mm off the bottom and machining the gap for the little end bearing inside the piston and will make it <57cc

Wait till next year...

teeheeeheee

and now is a good time to change the ratio if you need more pop or top

any bike shop, helps to take in a sample with older stuff like this, std roller chain and cheap sprockets shouldn't set you back anymore than $80

try trevor peirce yamaha first you may be surprised how competitive there prices are and ALOT more helpfull than budget mc

just get new, its not worth messing and mixing with used parts they will wear 10 times as fast and the fuckeredness could be part of your vibration problem (it also saps much needed power)

they may have but they'll be as hard as a hardened lump of hard stuff, solid mount is the only way to go tbh, flex in the arse end of an old machine is bad enough for the chain you don't want to be adding more

woah woah dont rubber mount it, rubber mounts flex and throw chains off/chop legs off. check your chain alignment and tension, flywheel and clutch are tight ect then glue everything on with locktite and enjoy the vibrations

vac leak?

shitty tappet clearance?

maybe even a BHG?

or just buy mipa 2k flat black, its already mixed to go and its cheap.

temperature and hardener will also effect it, the slower the hardener the more gloss and colder temps will let it gloss over more

smells more like an XL