bubblegoose

aslong as the carbs have never been separated from the rails then they should still be within the tolerances of pipe in ear spec tuning, you can use one of those guages but getting it crack on takes 240895240897 times longer. best just to drill and tap the manifold for some nipples

not sure on paint but other stuff they might do, failing that just send me a list of what you want or call and get it all over the phone then have it dropped off to my work and ill send it up

uhuh wurth is dope but somebody found some stuff on trademe that is also as dope i forget its name though IES i think or some other 3 letter thing

Last time I asked Steve Levine would do a bumper for about $70 for basic respray. But that was a while ago. Prices may have gone up though

iirc from the small print rust kill does not kill rust but prevents it from forming on clean steel (like most paint) where as por and hammerite can be applied to rusty metal

phosphoric acid wash (metal ready/deoxidine etc) then por15 or hammerite then millions of cavity wax

sweet, im attacking voldos fairlady over xmas so ill take some pictures and blurb about application of said primer

for restoration epoxy is defiantly the way to go, mostly when bare metalworking its perfect for slapping on right after blasting or stripping then you can asses rust and dents without fear of the metal deteriorating while you work on the car.

For panel work a 2k hi build or filler primer is a must as it has many multiple times the build as an epoxy and sands alot easier which is nice

buying a wet on wet capable etch primer that costs not much more than either single product is clearly the way to go if its available at the time

to clarify what a wet on wet primer is for for those who are not so sure, its a thin primer sprayed out of a regular paint gun before you lay down your colour, reason for using it can be to cover up any wayward sanding marks you may have missed (dry guide helps with this), to prime areas that have been rubbed though to bare metal or bog, if you are doing a colour change and have several patched of 2k primer over repairs but dont want to 2k prime the whole car, as a ground coat for colours with poor coverage and a few other reasons but those are the mains

^dry guide, is a colored dust usually black that can be rubbed over bog and primer to check for shape, hi/lo spots and when working down the sanding grades it will show up coarse lines that need attention

imo there are too many products on the market, should just make a self priming black paint and leave it at that

thats a silly quote, but i suppose it its auks prices, shouldn't be more than 300 down here

you can get away with it on alot of colours but ive never seen a pearl spot painted that looks better than a spraycan job

you blend out the clear and buff the overlap, looks good for a good few years, longer if done right

is that a straight white or a pearl?

touch up guys fail at pearls

set the idle to about 1000 then using the little adjusters on the linkages between each carb balance 1-2 then 3-4 then 2-3

pays to have your own rig as balancing is part of general servicing

left an earth cable off?

ill just throw this up here

this was a weekend rush job on cherrios 740 and after slapping on the second coat of black base coat i noticed that we had rushed too much and 320 sanding marks were visible over the whole car so i let it sit for 15mins and slapped coat of spies wet on wet mixed 50:50 with black base (as seen in the picture) then 2 more coats of black and it fully covered the whole woopsie.

its a fantastic product

we use PPG but the wet on wet etch shit we swapped to standox as it seems to self level better

reason behind sticking with the 1k system for this is all 2k products have a much higher build/fill and always require sanding unless doing a full wet on wet coat ( ie ppg dp40/ 4000) with the standox 1k we can spot prime a rub though, let it flash then paint over it with no visible edges or peel as it drys to thin to make a difference

its also super handy to throw down as a first coat before slapping heaps of 2k primer over a rough old panel

unfortunately spece you are incorrect, 1k etch is used as a wet on wet primer (2 in 1 product) in alot of shops including the one im at and is covered under the manufacturers lifetime guarentee

most can even be tinted to be used as a ground coat for weak covering metallics, its not as old school as you think

read up on balancing bike carbs, its real easy to to do and you don't need a fancy set of gauges you can use a length of clear pipe to make a cheap manometer.

make sure you get your fuel pressure to 3psi and have the carbs balanced before you do any jetting changes

you're in for alot of sanding, cracked paint needs to be fully removed

also jump into the tech section and check out the paint thread (its quite long)

a bike mechanic is your best bet, thats the only reason i like them. just dont go to an old guy they dont like it

worth mentioning that epoxy primer is hard as nails and is far from a pleasant event in the sanding process

if you want a quick tidy up then look into u-pol dolphin glaze for your stone chips and then a 2k filler primer over that (mipa is cheap and nice to use)

upol also claims there bog will stick to paint as well as bare steel, not that we ever bog over paint *ahem*

PPS. if its white then MIPA 2K all the way its almost monkey proof paint and delightfully cheap, i did my delta in the garage and it came out like glass (lots of runs because i was too impatient between coats)

ps, pay for a shipping crate and ill post my self up to paint your car/can lend you my gun if you pays poostage

metalux WHAT i used 5 litres covering an scargo never again will i use lux basecoat which was about 6 coats, 3 times more than it would have been in PPG cobra. 2k lux is alright though

as for laying clear on 'super thick' don't, lay it on wet and leave it as that, super thick will dry super peely

as for the gun not having much effect on paint i also call lies on this, i did my first paint chobs with a machine works gun then switched to a gti pro and was dropped with the difference it made, then i used to a sata and was super impressed all over again

slow and fast hardener has almost no effect on the peel but slower hardener will give a better gloss as the hardener doesnt take efect for hours after the paint has been applyed

reducer speed will have a small effect on peel but not much, id go medium for a garage job on a full repaint so you have plenty of time to get round the car

the biggest thing to effect the finish is how heavy you lay your paint on, gun set up and time between coats

peel takes longer to polish out than runs but often looks better after

clear coat kit will cost you $300 but will do 2 cars and you will need 2L base coat for repaint on a ke and add some more if you want to do door shuts

so say $600 but with left over clear for your next project

2k would cost you $300ish for midrange paint so slightly cheaper but its not as sun proof, depends how much you love your car