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bubblegoose

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Posts posted by bubblegoose

  1. put it on the hoist to do a total damage assessment since purchace 

     

    drive shaft rubbing due to pooped diff mount

    left outer cv clicking like a boss

    gearbox rear main bearing shot

    shift linkage bent (cheerios spec)

    engine mount torn

    5th gear syncro vanished from dodgy shift plate

    thermostat gone on holiday

     

    and im sure ive forgotten something

     

     

    might just order me an mtechII kit to make myself feel better

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  2. this one will be for the clued up ones on painting.i got given a tin of international paints "interthane 990",ex army spec green.what i cant find is what type of paint it is.its very old so could be enamel,but i have no idea.any of you knowledgeable gentlemen able to help me out??

    how old? 3 years id be wary 4 years id look at other options 5 year+ wouldnt bother

    the longer the paint sits on the shelf the softer it will be when 'cured' ie i used some 4 year old 2k about 6 months ago, baked it 3 times and still to this day its a little chewy

  3. flattening base to a 1k top coat or base coat? matting base is sometimes used in base coats to help get even coverage but base is matt/satin by on its own

    adding matting agent to a 2k top coat will do look and last just the same as a premade matt paint but will be more transparrent and take more coats to cover

    ie 2 coats of mipa flat black covers the same as 3/4 coats of a heavily matted 2k gloss

  4. If you want to keep the car for a long time and the old paint job is that shit I would delete it

    this^, new paint will only stick aswell as whats under it. But if you decide not to remove it all you can do your repair work as normal then before paint use a product like PPG DP4000 as a wet on wet primer sealer, and if you run out of time it can be painted over upto 5 days later without having to sand it back

  5. some base coats like ppg deltron are formulated to have hardener added for use in places like engine bays to replicate the factory Durable but shit looking finish.

    as for flatting 2k i would always buy specialty flat paint over flatting it your self where possible ( ie with whites and blacks and some other common colours come in matt), matting base will weaken the 2k and make it transparrent making it scratch and mark easier than straight 2k, spies matt clear is by far the best in the normal range of paints and mipa 2k matt black is bloody amazing to use

  6. wire wheel rust bubbles and dig it in to all the seams where rust will hide. smash a good coat of brunox over the bare metal patches then the next day some sticky paint like hammerite or rust kill enamel give it a few weeks for that to set then get underseal happy. good idea to brush some into the seams the day before you paint the full underbody

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