bubblegoose

matt clear never looks right aged/worn paint, just age it and leave it rust is fixable

the next day tbh (a few days in winter) buffing hard paint is a pita, 4 coats is alot so you can go nuts with the buffing but avoid unnecessary sanding and would start with 1500 wet for the bad bits then 2000 wet for not so bad bits/over the 1500, then hit it with 3000 if its a dark colour

buff it till you are happy with it then then maybe in a week or so a quick buff to bring back the gloss after the solvent has fully released, then jamb a good coat of wax on it

could you pm me the name and location of the shop, 3k is a cheap job but still no excuse for poor workmanship if they cant do the job properly they shouldn't do the job at all

Comenced the sanding today thaught i had it pretty close. Painter came in found some da swirls so back to the 400grit. Damn

what grit were you sanding with before going 'back' to 400?

so i gave the cortina another coat of paint and came up mint so now on with  the clear coat what grade wet n dry shall i rub it down with ?

if you are using base coat you only need to let it dry for 10 mins before clear-coating without sanding. if you are using some sort of top coat you need to make sure its fully cured before sanding and clear-coating to reduce the risk of a reaction

if you have used basecoat and let it dry then 1000 grit for any imperfections and a grey scotchbrite for the rest, id advise one more coat of base over it to hide any transparency caused by the sanding

epoxy, going by the sticky description (or a jar full of rust eating semen)

I just do everything like that in epoxy primer and the 2k urethane on top, I get a cheap industrial 2k black that is super hard wearing and looks good.

this

nitro, enamel and lacquer should all be avoided for anything other than VL commadores

the export engine enamel goes good in my experience

cheap enamel can take 6 months of summer to 'dry' in, shitty solvents that contain alot of crap that doesnt evaporate much/ever

i dont know what paint you are talking about but thats a general assumtion

its just mipa, i use it on wheels, engine bays etc

clear only comes in a kit  7 L depends on what system you use

that depends on the brand, i have a 1l tin in front of me for an engine bay im doing tomorrow.

Not using thinners is fine in a warm environment where the paint will flow but if your in a cooler garage spec spray area then thinners is a must or its gonna be a nightmare/some balls to spray heavy enough to get it flat (not telling you just so other readers are aware)

Probably 1.5 litres of unthinned, unhardened clear.

2L theres alot of panel area on them goats

with most paint systems that will net you 3.3L ready to spray

to be safe leave it a few weeks to cure before your put your pearl and clear coats on to avoid the risk of having any unwanted reactions, flatted back with 800 would be fine to apply the pearl coat too anything finer and your just wasting time as you wont see any difference in the finish

be good for 6 months or so then it probably will go a bit chalky

just for the underside of the morry.....so doesnt need to be flash.....do you need to put some rust treatment shit down or does the underseal have that built in?/i dont know what im talking about.....

prep the under side with a coarse scotch pad and some phosphoric acid (rust remover) follow destructions on the bottle

 

 

I am having issues with 2 pot acrathane (resene) I have been buying satin black but when applied it seems to be drying to more of a super gloss. I have fiddled with thinning percentage, and air pressures etc.. with only minor improvements to reduction in gloss level.

 

It's not of a major concern as it's only for suspension bits and brackets etc but still keen to try and understand what i am doing wrong??

sometimes matt and satin paints require baking to bring out the desired finish, im not sure how big of an area you are painting but if its small enough you could sit a double hallogen work lamp about 1m away from the panel for half an hour (about 5 mins after painting)

depends on the brand. mipa 2k is pretty fool proof but metalux 2k requires a shit ton of practice to get a good finish without it looking like a waterfall of paint (both cheap brands suitable for engine bay use)

Also orange peel is usually due to not spraying enough paint for the air you are using, either turn down your air screw or adjust the needle stop if you have wound it in. Hope that helps.

thats dry peel (looks like inverted sand paper), the other orange peel (looks like a golf ball) is from under thinned paint or not allowing adequate flash off time between coats and also too many coats

most needles (HVLP guns) need to be wound out 2.5 to 2.75 turns, air screw set to max but pressure regulated to what ever it says on the paints tech data sheet (normally 30 to 60psi)

nah but i do need to buy some speis bc reducer soon, how urgently do you need it

failing that you could buy a pottle of basecoat thinners off a panel shop that uses SH

yeah the cheap guns are ok for engine bays and 2k paints. If the surface of the engine bay is in pretty good condition you can just clean ALL the oil/grease out with a water blaster and degreaser, then rub it down with fine/grey scotch brite pad and some prepsol, then prepsol and rags, then more presol and rags till a white rag comes off clean. hit it with a coat of 1K EPOXY (can be over as soon as its flashed off without sanding in-between) primer then 2 coats of your colour (and clear if needed) and call it a day.

only reason you would need to 2k primer would be if you were going for a show finish or done any welding/bogging in there

Just done a few rattle can touch ups to one of my cars, paint was PPG dulon, using orignal toyota colour, just wondering about the overspray that has settled, its a bit rough to the touch, how soon after painting can I wet sand it (assume thats the best to use) and what grit - 1500?

In this thread, guys were saying you can get away without clear coating it - appreciate it will give a better result but I hadn't planned to clear coat it as the rest of the car is average too.

I was going to cut and polish the car, to deal with some of the oxidised clear coat it has on other panels, should I avoid buffing the freshly painted areas?

dulon is a 1k top coat and requires no clear-coat, you can wet sand the next day i would suggest a light 2000 then 3000 especially if polishing by hand (and also 1k paints are very thin)

take the e30, we can have our own white e30 meeting

4into4

I agree^ do that