ZedHed

dont biff it,hunt down a replacement engine....from any BMC built FWD car under 1300cc should fit?Guys?

fuck yes Gem,it is very nasty shit,i reckon that where my dose of chemotherapy started from.

I was taught to paint by a silly fuck at 13yrs old,i knew no better,had no choice as I had to make a living ,no mask...no overalls and no fucking clue,now im 42 im paying for it big time.........wear a mask,gloves and goggles,in a ventillated area and get the fuck out when you are done each coat.

Felix....id go 2k sealer bro.Get some Durapox sealer and hit it with that,that will stop any fry ups and blistering from any animal paint.Good thing about the sealer is you can paint over it with anything,lacquer....2k....ename.........l and it wont react,just use a mask eh,its nasty shit to be breathing in.

trans cooler in any diseasel auto is good.In saying that,without a cooler,my safari towed a complete valiant ute on a trailer,with a spare 318/904, 4 doors,diff, front xmember, 5 wheels and parts from my VIP with no issues at all,eng temp never went above half,and trans temp light never came on once.I fucking love my truck.Regular servicing on them is critical though,mines a few thou overdue now.

hiya rick...77CLute here.

Did they reeealy spend 200hrs plus on your car?

Just to repaint it?

Shit,i rebuilt an xagt coupe in the same amount of time,but id lay money on which car will still be around in another 20yrs,lol.

Looks very nice indeed,you must be stoked!

gq is the code for a patrol....vrgy60 is the code for a safari,youll just confuse the wrecker even more,and they are both coils,mq patrol and the same year safari are leaf

yep l20et manifold,but the turbo is a little small for anything close to a 3ltr.

id go for the vg30det turbo

what wrong with wet sanding mate? you get a finer finish,use less paper and have more control over the job,im only commenting with 25+yrs in the trade.A da sander is only for taking the top off shit,not finishing work.

"i wish people would stop suggesting stupid ideas"

i agree there,but i think experiance is the mother of all teachers.Bog is porous,and so is primer filler,but done outside and cleaned after sanding is sweet.Sanded and left wet yes the water will soak in to a point,fuckall and its not as if its going to make it rust more

id just biff some primer at it,or durapox epoxy sealer then repair,fill primer,let it shrink for a month (this time of year) and then da with 800 and squirt some blue at it

180 is for finishing panelwork dude,not for taking primer down,youll end up making a mess and biting into any repairs below the primer.

36-40 grit for cleanign steel and taking bog back(after using a sureform grater)

80-180g for feathering edges and finishing off bog work.

220-360 wet or dry for knocking back shrinkage in primer and such.

then 400 if you feel the need,or have been a little rough using the coarser grit papers.

Discs are for a DA (dual action sander) good for small areas sanding in slow circles.

An orbital is usually used to sand larger areas in a backwards and forwards motion.

That scotch brite shit is amazing,definately use it,i wish it was around when i was younger,would have saved alot of skin being worn and fingerprints rubbed away.

knowing what sort of finish you want determins what method and attention to detail youl need to employ bro.

Get an orbital sander and use 320 dry on it.Or if you want a finer finish,get 320 wet and dry,and a rubber sanding block and go at it,then reprime as needed. Shimple

fuck yessir.I hate chebbys,but that is a very nice car you have right there man.Good to see youve pulled it down to inspect for hidden nasties.U gonna keep the 283 or go bigger?

Nooooice

yeah man,ill never sell mine.

Ive tipped it on its side,had it airbourne a good 5ft off the beach,towed 3ton from aucks to well and back,never missed a beat.

here ya go

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 245404.htm

no shit? I should open my fuckin eyes a bit betterer.

No doubt i was looking at jap import replacements,fan to clutch implants.

fuck cheapest ive seen a td42 go for was $2000.

Ive done nearly 300k in mine with only fluid changes....10ltrs of oil in the bastards!

i would worry too much about rust coming back,its not gone,it will still be under there.That patch looks ok to me,but in future take the screen out,if you get heat transfer,say seeya to the screen.

Have a container of ice water and a rag handy,after each spot cool it with the wet rag,less heat transfer and warpage,you dont want that near your screen.Weld it in a sequence like torqing a head down.Always easier to overlap a patch where you can,just knock the edges of the hole under and weld the patch flush,or drill the patch close to the edges and plug weld the holes,that way you dont have to worry about blowing thru where the two bits of steel meet eachother,thats when shit gets messy.

Always clean the steel best you can as it can affect the penetration of the welds.

theyre an xr4i

XR4i's are RWD, it is the XR4x4 and some seirra sapphires with the 4x4....

fuckinknowitall.jpg

ok,post edited for massive dumfuckness

theyre an xr4i,and have glass gearboxes...my mate went through alot of boxes midified from a seirra.It definately could honk and hold the road well though.I suppose the next step up in seirra's would be the lotus engined job?

They have two overly large spoilers on the liftback...uuuugly but go well.

No shit,I will definately try it man.

Cheers Danger.

the best rustkiller ive ever used is rustroy,a little hard to find now.

As a rule,you want the steel to turn black/purple when being treated,not white.

non porus bog,i call bullshit on that product unless im proved wrong by a job with that shit used older that atleast 5yrs...........if it sands off as a dust,its porus,or it would take shitloads of sandpaper to cut back,non ecconomical for any bizzo.

use newtech first,its less porous and takes more abuse than panel filler.25 yrs in the biz tells me this.

Use a 2k epoxy sealer,key it up with a scotch pad,then apply newtech,then panel cream,then 2k primer/filler then base and clearcoat.

Using an etch primer is not totally needed,as long as your covering the steel quick after exposing it to ait.

Also,it IS flexible,and wont crack as easy as filler. You will see any bog come off a panel if its hit hard enough.Usually bog just falling off is from not keying the steel enough to begin with.

if ur gonna slam it,be sure to check the underbody in the middle,under the seat,mine had a massive crack from years of bumpstop slamage.

That rust in the front lower caps (end of sill) is common as,they all go there.Ther only val ive not seen rust there was my vg coupe.

Looks to be a good honest body for a ute,they tended to get a bit more abuse than the cars and wagons.

shouldn't have posted.

oh true notch,its not an M series but you like it anyways eh