Frosty

What's used as the intake filter?

Could be as simple as some grit in the switch mech.

Most are serviceable so a good clean and lube should sort it out.

Watched them couple of days ago, love his guitar solo at the end of that episode. Good for a laugh.

He's probably the one from Top Gear I would most like to meet, the other two are pretty much what you see is what you get but James runs a bit deeper.

I get the impression he would be full of surprises if you spent some time.

His Peoples Car Doco's are interesting if you're into Automotive history.

Trying to amp up the audience I think.

They should have got the cool wall back, it would have got them involved with out all the yelling.

I do think Evans and LeBlanc will end up a good pair once they start to work out each others strengths.

Just so different from the Clarkson, May and Hammond era.

I do remember when May was added to the line up, first few episodes where a bit forced and the other two tortured him somewhat. It all came good in the end and the relationship became quite entertaining in it's own right and I think that's what's missing more than anything else.

One thing to remember though is that the first Top Gear was an all Clarkson affair and what we now think of as "Top Gear" now is actually it's second incantation.

I'm just old enough to remember the original version from the 80's. I'm sure there is some good pic's of Clarkson with 80's hair and a Miami Vice suit somewhere.

Yep 23rd season, check on IMDB.

In the current format they have been doing 2 seasons a year with around 6 episodes per season along with a Christmas Special and a two episode Challenge mid year.

This seems to be how most UK made serials work, we've just got used to the 20 to 24 episode American stuff.

Christmas Special means it plays during that period and usually has nothing to do with Christmas, strange but I suppose Car Show.

Well I down loaded and watched the New Top Gear.

Star in a car is now sealed and dirt with a jump. Will challenge the poor buggers with no skill, we might see a roll over this season.

A Viper that has a tonne of down force and as fast as the Ariel Atom.

An American as a presenter (Matt LeBlanc).

A challenge that had the Poms cheating and the Americans winning by default.

Very average apart from the Corvette Viper chase would be my opinion.

If it wasn't for the awesome cars I would give it a miss.

Link from PB.

https://pirateproxy.pe/torrent/14726066/Top.Gear.S23E01.HDTV.x264-TLA%5Bettv%5D

Cylinder head blow causes a hot spot in and around it, so if it just happens to be between 2 and 3 that section if cylinder wall gets to hot causing a crack aggravated by high pressure steam in the combustion chamber, all contributing to piston, lands and rings being damaged which causes fuming and oil consumption.

I think that pretty much covers your list of woes.

There's more than one reason for water / oil contamination when a head gasket blows.

1. Head gasket blow between water gallery and an oil passage letting water find it's way into the sump directly down an oil return slot. Doesn't always blow into a combustion chamber.

2. This time between a combustion chamber and a water gallery, this can also result in water in the oil but it takes longer as it has to bypass the rings to get into the sump but with a few hours running it will result in chocolate milk for a lubricant.

3, what I think is our problem here, blow between 2 and 3 also picking up a water gallery and an oil return, an unholy trifecta that can result in all your worst fears coming to fruition. Oil in the water, bad fuming and oil consumption, damaged pistons, eroded top of block and the surface of the head due to high pressure steam and combustion pressure swapping between the two cylinders.

I do hope the block is fine but at the very lest check it for true, I think you will find the section between 2 and 3 is eroded, this alone might account for the low readings in 2 and 3, much more likely the rings or ring lands have been damaged though...................

If you want to confirm bad rings without pulling down the engine.

Do a wet test.

Same procedure as a normal compression test but you put a couple of caps of engine oil into the cylinder before you test.

If the rings are buggered this should tell you, all your results will appear normal, ie all around 115psi.

May want to consider a cylinder wall crack as well.

Stick with Ford stuff, RS Cosworth, right offset, light and right stud pattern also you can get 205's to fit without rub. Much better to drive with low profile tires and handling is better due to lower unsprung weight.

Please don't go with massive slam, I know it's the scene at the moment but you will regret it 10min into your first drive, makes the car a cop magnet to.

How naughty is it to weld up holes on a cast alloy rim and re drill to something different.

 

Prob safe?

Very naughty! even for a wof.

It's a job for the pros which = much $ and if a forged center even more $ due to two lots of machining with re-tempering in between.

Can you actually do that?? If you did that itd be different to the new number on your rego card tho

NO. To rereg using a Black plate you need to prove the plate belongs to that vehicle.

Original papers is the best way but they will accept photographic evidence, ether historic pics of the car or off the untampered plate and it's fixings.

Found this parked at New World Waitara couple of days ago.

Any one here know who owns it?

Perfect.

See you all there.

At least some a willing to give it a go and I hope more will start once it's regular.

Taranaki is woefully underrepresented in the Oldschool community and only we can change that, get off your asses and up from your couch and do something about it. NOW!

Celebrate your love off old things and bring your tissues.

Im keen to meat. Not keen to cruise though my cars to low and illegal.

Bring your daily or catch a ride.

Would be nice to see some of the projects, I know I have a couple on the go.

Maybe do a shed tour, a couple each month as part of the meet instead of Devon St?

Bike summit, Hell yeah. Couple of beds at my place.

Mid week evening good for me, but am available most nights.

Wednesday or Thursday 7 ish,  (30th or 31st).

Odd weekend cruse bit further afield, hook up with the Palmy crew etc.

I'm up for scaring locals on the walkway, I do a good drunk cycling thing even when sober.

All those Terriers and Bejons better get ready.

Time to put wof on the Rolla. hhhmmm.............  and finish the Chopper. Arrr what have I done to myself.

Is there anyone interested in a meet in New Plymouth?

Something like Burger King and a couple of laps through Devon St?

I know I'm up for something and a couple of PM's to your area mod would indicate he's not interested in getting anything of the ground.

So it's up to us to do something.

Let me know your thoughts.

On a side note I think we could do with a pedal powered crew in the Naki to.

"Naki Crankers" has a nice ring oi it, again let me know your thoughts.

If you're going for Cert or need a cage for racing use these regs.

Otherwise follow above but keep in mind replacement mounts like the pics above requires a cert.

Those pink stickers can be a pain.

http://www.motorsport.org.nz/sites/default/files/motorsport/forms/MSNZ%20Guidelines%20for%20Safety%20Cage%20Homologation.pdf

Question isn't "Is there such a thing as a road legal rotobongo?"

Question is Why RotoBongo?

Rotor guys would have all of us in PP Corona's or BMW's.

Nether is a bad idea imo but there is a good case for pistons especially in Commercial vehicles (read here Compound Turbo Diesel).

Old School fix for a blown glass fuse, but it's not real safe but will get you home.

Wrap the fuse in tin foil.

Don't try to use the ones sleektoy suggested they don't work without bending the pins in the fuse box.

Easy way to fuck your fuse box.

Seedy

Those short ones are available through Rare Spares in Australia, some of the oem outfits in The States could help to if pressed.

Last time I checked the NZ branch had no stock and didn't plan on getting any more.

Some of the American parts guys here in NZ could be of help to.

Worked Eski engine.

4 to 1 Headers, 10" long 2" pipe, 2" Chambered Resonator, 2.25" intermediate pipe to behind the diff then 2.5" Back flow Muffler then 2.5" tail pipe if needed.

My preferred muffler is Magna Flow but there heaps of other hi performance ones out there.

Another trick I've seen is to cut the end of the chambered resonator and attach directly to the collector.

As above.

Real common in pre 60's cars and British stuff till the 80's.

Still used in some Car Stereo's but at lower rating, 10amp mostly.

Just be happy it's not a short one that the XR to XY Falcon's use, now those are hard to get.

Once you have all the bits, Sender for tank and the range of movement worked out.

Then drop in into a good Auto sparky or Instrument tech to re calibrate the KE gauge.

A15 Nissan.

Few of you seem very miss informed re the BMC Nissan partnership.

Started with just Austin and the A40 Devon's being built in Japan under license by Nissan.

With the advent of BMC when Austin, Morris, Riley and a little later Wolsey all came together in the mid to late 50's the deal with Austin became problematic so to keep every one happy BMC maintained a relationship and helped Nissan to develop cars using the A series engines and drive lines in Nissan body's and later Nissan started building there own engines using the A engines as a base.

Moving forward into the 60's Nissan saw the need for a 6 cylinder engine and the Prince Company was merged as well with those SOHC six cyl engine which was again based on a English engine, this time by Bentley.

Put the small 4 cly body now all Nissan with that SOHC 6 and there you have the beginning of something great. THE NISSAN SKYLINE.

Use the 1300 head with the 1600 valves in it and 1300 pistons with the 1600 block, crank and rods, you'll need a 1600 sump to, the 1300 one doesn't have enough room for the crank.

Deck the block and skim a bit of the head to increase the combustion ratio.

Headers will fit most of the time without drama, some times it gets to close to the floor at the collector and needs some persuasion with heat and a big bar.

A2 Cam, double valve springs, 1600 GT twin Barrel carb and manifold with 2000 jets in it or just fit a 2000 carb to the GT manifold.

Balance the crank, flywheel, front pulley, cam gear and clutch diaphragm as a complete unit.

This will give you a strong engine without being stupid and costing moon beams.

Should see the 80 to 90 HP you are looking at.

If you still need more after that look at building a flowed head with over sized valves into your 1600 head, forged pistons, bigger cam (A3) with twin side draft Dellorto or Weber carbs.

Results in about 110 to 120 HP.

This is tried and tested, once you get much past this it takes some major $ with light weight after market internals and the gains get smaller and smaller with each stage of mods not to mention they become a pain to drive in city traffic.

Good luck mate and welcome to the oldschool community.

I be interested to know as well.

I've personally never heard a of a problem, but that doesn't mean there's not best practice.

About to chuck some second hand cams on my Small Port so going to shift them around to get the valve clearance right, hope I won't have a problem.........

Seem to remember pitting, cracking and bluing (heat spots) are the things to check for.