Frosty

Check voltage regulator / charging system I've seen faulty ones give all sorts of problems.

Just disconnect them as a start, it will tell you if that's the problem.

The two wire thing is fine but you will find that those 2 wires out of the switch are meant to go into a connection block with anything up to 1/2 a dozen wires.

I'm picking he's got some of the wires on the wrong side of the switch or not connected at all.

If you have a one piece drive shaft stick with it.

The two piece ones with the CV in the middle are renowned for giving problems.

I think the idea was to allow for a higher pinion angle without aggravating UJ bearing wear, all it did was make the shaft heaver, more complex, more prone to vibration and failing.

Not to mention that if your car had a one piece there's probably no provision in the drive shaft tunnel for the middle mount.

You can get rag wheels to suit a Grinder or Drill, they work awesome with Autosol once you have the pitting sorted.

Used the Strip, Sand imperfections out then Autosol with a polishing wheel (Rag Wheel) method heaps of times, it takes what seems like years to get them to really sparkle but when you see those wheels on your pride and joy is all worth it.

Swap out the CD's for SU's.

Same bolt pattern but not the same tuning issues.

Huge range of needles and seats available.

Mum's 3 litre sits for months and always starts and goes well.

One option no one seems to be suggesting is the Holly 4 barrel.

Designed with the American market where every thing is designed to work with low IQ's so any NZ GC back yarder can sort with ease.

I've read a heap of stuff about this.

It said we drive to fast, to drunk, to drugged, to dangerously, to tired, to inexperienced, fleet is to old etc etc.

I'm going to stop reading.

Not sure of the purpose of this thread so here's some examples of my Ford V6's because I can.

Mk 4 Zephyr. Great car.

Mk 1 Escort with a 2.8 injected V6, Celica 4 speed and narrowed Falcon LSD. Great race car.

Bradford pick-up, 3lt V6, Auto and Jag rear, Viva front end. Down right terrifying.

After reading this I'm more confused than I was at the start.

I even wasted a day trying to decipher the moped rules on the LTSA page.

Really want to work this shit out because I've spent the last couple of years on and off, more off than on building a Chopper and it's fitted with a 49cc two stroke kit and I would like to actually ride it to the shops or run the dog with it. I'm to fat and old to run or even pedal for more than 5 minutes at a time.

When I say chopper I mean chopper, 1/2 a dozen bikes chopped up and made into something no one but me would call a bike.

Years of manufacture would be anything from 1970 to 2016 depending on which color you point at.

It's geared to do no more than 30kph and on a home built stretched and raked bike I doubt I'll be brave enough to get near that.

Am I dreaming to even try to make it legal or do I just ride it and take the pain when I get pulled over, and I can guarantee I'll get pulled over by the first cop that see's me on it.

I've owned a 65 1600 and a 68 1725 and a Hunter Ali head 1725.

Of the three the 65 was my favorite.

The 69 and Hunter had more power but lacked the throttle response of the 1600, that heavy 5 bearing crank and over square bore stroke ratio slows them down.

My recommendation, keep the 1600, 1725 cast iron head (skimmed to bump the compression), Weber twin choke (Capri/MK4 Zephyr V6 not the Kent one), Headers, 2" exhaust, double valve springs and a bit bigger cam. BALANCE THE BOTTOM END!!!!!!!!! Do the pistons and rods as well (weigh them and remove enough weight to get them even) The spinning mass (crank, flywheel, clutch, timing sprocket and front pulley) you take to the rebuilders.

Optical points and electronic ignition makes a huge difference to.

When you do the head (port and polish) do the port bit but don't do the polish bit, it causes fuel drop out, the fuel runs along the surface of the ports rather that staying in the air fuel mix and don't forget to tickle the Combustion chambers.

The Commer vans of that era also ran the Cast Iron 1725.

The Talbot Alpine ran the twin choke on the 1725 and also had double valve springs.

Good luck and enjoy your old car, don't leave it in the shed.

You've checked the front screen, What about the rear one?

I've reused crush tubes, yes I know they need a new one.

I look at it this way, the crush tube is there to make it easy and fast to get the preload right but a lot of older diffs just use shims, more time consuming but it works.

So it all comes down to the preload, if it's right why change the crush tube, it's not hard to check preload you only need a torque wrench and a way the lock the pinion nut once it's right so replace the pinion nut with a locking type, Nylock or drill a hole and use a castellated nut or one of the over nut style ones wheel bearings use.

I use the chambered M&H ones on everything. Lovely deep note which is nice on the older engines, no nasty rasp that reminds me of a tribe of mosquito's in a baked been tin and they are good on price

Get mine form STA Parts via their TardMe store. Here's the username.  staparts53.

Link to a 2.5 one.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/exhaust/auction-1147115507.htm

Supertrapp sounds good though, just loud.

Mate you need a new mechanic, one that knows what a carb and points are.

Heaps of things cause rough idle.

Some can be immediately removed from the list due to new carb.

Given the symptoms I would be looking at the distributor.

Hard hot starting is usually a bad condenser and the rough idle from a worn main shaft in the distributor (points gap is erratic and changes with rpm).

Find a dwell meter and a vacuum gauge and most importantly someone who knows how to use them.

With three tools and an educated ear most tuning issues with carb and points engines can be diagnosed.

Dwell meter checks how well the points are working, vacuum gauge looks at air flow and compression tester. Looking at the results together tells all.

After market cams will cause a rough idle but it's regular, called hunting so you look for throttle response rather than a perfect idle if that's the case.

Couple of other things to look at would be cam chain (timing issues) and lifters (worn ones will cause valves to open unevenly).

Excessive fuming is poorly bedded or worn rings and or valve stem seals.

Removing the vent pipe from inlet will cause oil leaks but do check the PCV valve they can stick.

If this is a recurring problem with the same workshop there's two possibilities.

Poor quality head gasket or poor workmanship.

I would be scared of mechanic that says it looked straight, looking straight and being straight are two very different things.

There's a lot more to doing a head gasket than just bolting it on.

My pick is dirty and unlubricated head studs and or the threads in the block, it can cause uneven torquing leading to seeping coolant or oil, they should be test fitted in the block to make sure they go in smoothly and easily.

Long time ago I was the proud owner of a MK3 Cortina 1600GT Pinto engine.

Air vent on the drivers side never worked and pissed me of because I couldn't cool my right hand down without winding the window down.

Half baked on Sunday I decided it was time to sort that shit out so pried out the vent face and to my astonishment there was about 2 oz of Waitamata Wacky Weed, at which time I proceeded to get totally baked.

Vent worked much better after that.

I always use my hand.

Get the engine warm and grab the top hose, you should be able to hang on for a few seconds before the heat tells you it's time to let go.

Pretty random I know but it's always worked for me when the gauge fails.

If you can't hang on then remove the cap in my experience anyway it erupts in steam.

I'm probably more masochistic than most, I worked on Mini's by choice for years........

If you don't trust me try it on a car you know keeps a normal temp first.

JZA-70 Supra, 2JZ-turbo and W57.

Only sports Car I've owned that I could get scaffolding in, made a good tow car as well.

Pros JZ say no more.

Cons. needed better suspension before it handled with any sort of precision.

Bugger me.

Flat mate had one in Papamoa in the late 90's.

I never thought I would see another one.

Looks great mate, please keep us updated.

Get one of those cheep sand blaster kits from TardMe or Super Cheep and use Rice as the blasting media. Worked for me and they run of a normal Air Compressor, needs a reasonable amount of CFM even my Hinden couldn't keep up at times.

One of the carbs will have a tiny nipple between the butterfly and the manifold, that is where the vacuum advance line goes.

The two larger nipples are for the vents, you can use ether the rocker cover or the clutch housing one you don't need both hooked up, block the other one off.

The A series will leak every where without one or the other connected.

If the little nipple isn't in one of the carbs drill a small hole in the manifold and fit one there, it needs to be between the throttle butterflies and the head or the advance won't work properly.

Had a Liteace do this to me and that put me in a ditch, scared the shit out of me.

ST140 same as AA60 so replacements will go straight on and your springs will go on to.

If you want the larger Cressida spec brakes and shocks then use the struts from a RT140 (18RG engine) or TT140 (3TGTE engine).

MA60 or GA60 are unique to them and the GZ10 or MZ10 and not suitable for the Carina.

In all cases the 0 at the end of the model code will be a 1, 2, 4 or 6 depending on number of doors and trim.

Toyota?

Very popular in Aus, US and Arab Emirates so some time on E-Bay might veld results.

Other option might be a Crown or Cressida one, should be around the same size.

ToyoDIY.com will give you a list of other models that use the same parts if you use the parts search.

Find your numbers then use that to get the most common model and use that to order the parts.

It will take some time to run all the part numbers but if hard to get an exact kit the individual parts might be the way to go.

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/q_G_1985_TOYOTA_LAND+CRUISER_BJ70.html

Fit buy pass valves.

Quiet for Cert and WOF and loud for the track or when you just want more noise and it's legal.

Sounds like the inner valve spring seat needs to be milled down a bit, not uncommon with aftermarket springs and high lift cams.

Cause alludes me given less lift with the new cam, maybe the new cam is not as advertised (wrong cam in the box).

Could be you are measuring the new cam wrong to. measure base circle C then the lobe height B and take the first measurement from the second. this will give you the lift A.

With the reground cam the base circle will be smaller than the new one so comparing the two tip measurements won't work with out taking the smaller base dia of the reground one into account.

Late model 1000cc engines run a double spring and are good for about 7500rpm, they also run a forged rocker arm which also helps in higher rpm work as they have far less deflection than the folded ones, also suffer less from rocker shaft and rocker tip wear.

Watch out once fitted not to go much further than the 1275's red line as the cranks have a nasty habit of breaking at the center main journal if unbalanced.

Built a heap of these when I was a younger man and always ran the factory 1000 springs even with the big 731 grind cams.

They offer the low seat pressure needed for good scavenging but reduce float that the singles experience and they are oem so heaps of r and d behind them.

Use the retainer as well.

The more I see Evans the less I like him and losing breakfast has seriously lowered his cred.

The black dude that tested the Focus would make a far better presenter and Sebien is growing on me, maybe see should come on full time, shes done two out of three so far.

Not sure how the Poms would fell about a German and a Yank co hosting an English car show.

It might not go down so well but I'd watch it.