Frosty

Good fuel economy goes hand in hand with modifications to get more power if it's done well.

The same mods that give more power also make a more efficient engine so it uses less fuel to produce the same power as the old set-up. QED good fuel economy when you're just cruising around.

Did a Mini as my first foray into the modified car scene, Displacement increase, taller gearing, forged pistons, big cam, porting etc etc. The standard 1000cc engine gave about 35 mpg, the modified 1300 did 45 mpg when cruising but when you but your foot into it it emptied the tank in about 1/2 and hour and destroyed a pair of front tyres. in the process. It was fun though.

Over heating in heavy traffic.

No radiator shroud.

A bit to much ignition advance at idle.

A lean setting on the idle jet.

Cool. sounds like you are asking the right questions which is half the battle.

A compound charged bi intercooled 1GGTZE will make a Cortina go like a haunted shit house and it's refreshing to see something not Kent, Pinto, Grenada or 4AGE.

Keep up the good work.

So you're using the supergharger as the secondary boost cycle?

I think you may be underestimating how much you'll need to cool the charged air down, my feeling is you will need to look at something more than a single cooler under the supercharger.

I've seen a Subaru STI intercooler modified with the fined section enclosed and used as a water to air style one with a small pump and AC radiator to cool that down.

This system allows the intercooler to go almost anywhere, water to air is heaver but it's more efficient than air to air.

Please don't take this as anything more than a suggestion but I would place the supercharger under the inlet on it's side with the outlet side facing away from the engine, this will allow the cold air intake for the supercharger to face upward at the back of the engine bay making it easy to get air into, pipe boosted air under the front pulley into the turbo in it's normal position through a normal front mount intercooler then use a normal front facing inlet manifold.

This system will allow you to run a fixed boost through the supercharger and a conventional turbo type waste gate to control boost making the whole thing way easier to control and I think a tidier looking engine bay.

Remember the M90 can supply a 5.4lt V8 at 12 psi all day but as the secondary it will be working very hard and I doubt you will be able to keep it's oil cool enough to make the system reliable, hot air in, hotter air out is a lot of heat soak to control. Over heating the oil is one of the known weaknesses in the M90.

What about the hole that goes to the vacume lines?? ....need that

Only if you plan to use it. I imagine that would be dictated by your manifold  and how easy it would be to get lines too and or if you want to keep them hidden.

10mm is just thick enough but 12mm would be my choice. Remember it will need to be resurfaced after welding which can lose a couple of mm's depending on how good your welder is.

Played with a M90 on a 1GGZE and used pretty much every hole, mainly because it made adapting the Toyota bits easy and in most cases the same functions where needed. In my case it was way simpler to make the plumbing from scratch and use a N/A manifold, also allowed an intercooler to be added. I ran up to 16psi with one still using the stock ecu with bigger injectors and pump. Without the intercooler I was lucky to use 10psi.

You will need a good fuel system, superchargers use more fuel than the same power with a turbo.

Check the fuel filter, if that doesn't work it could be the pump or a blocked main jet.

All are likely if it's sat for a while.

Yep I think you found it.

Red is most likely the pick-up so putting 12v into it may have killed it for good, cross your fingers.

The CDI should have 4 or 5 wires, 3 wire is possible if the kill switch isn't included in it.

CDI = Capacitor Discharge Ignition and yes it's most likely the problem.

Small black box which probably has CDI written on it.

Will connect to both the engine loom and the coil if it has nothing on it.

Suppose to be more reliable than points and condenser (hall effect) but when it fails you have nothing, points can be bodged to get you home.

Horn button does not belong to the wheel, Momo just happens to be the easiest to find and most aftermarket wheels use similar sized hole for the horn button.

If the wheel was mine and going in a Japanese car I'd be looking for a Nardi horn button about now, The Peyton looks enough like a Nardi to pull it off.

JDM after market wheel.

Mid range quality wise.

At $50 you got a bargain.

Got a color called "Dirty Wine" with a Brown Pearl added made up for a two tone bike with White as the second color.

Looked epic in the sun with color shift from Red Candy through Dark Purple and into Dark Brown.

Would need near perfect panel work because it's such a dark color.

Sorry I never took a picture of the finished bike but the customer was very happy with the result.

I did keep the sample stick so I had a reminder which I still have but it's very scratched, I doubt I could get a picture that would give you a true idea.

No. You only need the out and bypass holes.

The original red and white looks a good choice.

Black or Dark Green with Gold leaf would be epic but full gloss dark colors mean a lot of work.

Army green, a slot cover on the headlight with black or dark green insignia / pin striping would suit it to. Wheels painted with this option so no expansive chrome or stainless replacements to find.

I think the mechanic has given you sound advice.

New syncros on old gears can take a while to bed in and engagement issues with a refurbished box isn't uncommon ether.

The balls and springs and slight misalignment when the selector rods are refitted to the gear change forks will cause some resistance until everything settles down.

Those new bearings will load the gears slightly different due to things moving around in relation to each other now there's less play in everything.

Put some km's on it and if you're still not happy in a thousand or so then go back and see the mechanic, I would put money on him giving you the same advice.

One thing I would suggest is to drop the oil and see if there are any metal particulates in there, if yes then get it out and back to the shop asap.

^ That's more like it.

Not Top Gear though but then again Top Gear isn't really Top Gear any more is it?

Fu@%#in confusing myself there.

Looks epic, can't bloody wait for some James May, been missing him more than the Orangutan and the Style Nerd.

The 71's are a pain.

Even without low they are outside the current cert regs.

Add four NZ blokes or a loaded trailer to your 71 and you have exceeded the limit and run the risk of a pink sticker!

Once did a check on the factory rear suspension when it was loaded to the bump stops , it was 3.5 deg in stock trim.

You could argue that this is a starting point but I doubt you would win.

Most wheel alignment shops will have the information you need but from memory the 71 is 0 to 0.5 deg factory at the back unloaded so with the extra 0.5 deg the regs allow you can run up to 1 deg negative unloaded, having the print out from the alignment shop is something you will need anyway.

The certifiers do have some scope beyond this if brake performance etc are still ok but your best bet buy far is to talk to them before you turn up with your sacked car expecting them to just say yep that's perfect here's your cert.

Minimum $500 if there's dents to fix as well.

Just had a couple of head light buckets done (Fiat Ducato) and that was just under $400 with shipping through Wanganui Electroplating.

In my case I had no other option but $500 would pay for a good secondhand bumper maybe even a NOS one.

Seen oil getting into the dissy cause issues in the past, only takes one overheat to harden the internal O ring.

So Frank is responsible for both.

Sorry but the Mountain bike I'll be keeping, actually been looking for ages for something a bit different but not crap or new and the right size (I'm a big bugger and look ridiculous on a small or medium frame).

I do have an early 80's Diamondback Sidewinder frame and some parts if your foamer is interested

The BMX is available if someone wants it.

All references to Panther seem to be restricted to the BMX stuff and not the 26" wheeler.

Buy the look of it it's based on a Healing 10 speed road frame from the late 70's with a heaver head stock and fork, lower stays flare to suit bigger tire as well, my 2.5" Hockworms just fit.

Interesting, I might have to drop Frank an e-mail, it might be quite eliminating.

Anyone know about these brands? Google just wanted to sell me hand bags which tells me they are probably unique to NZ.

Panther Sherpa ATB-12. Mountain bike 26" wheels.

Mid to late 80's vintage welded frame, larger than normal head tube.

I was just going to scrap it but it seems to be not your average POS.

Got Alloy cranks, chain rings, brakes and stem.

Built at Gary's Cycles in Stratford (Healing sticker)

Worldrider Raider. BMX type 20" wheels.

Again mid 80's.

Oval lower frame member.

Steel rims and coaster brake.

Both appear to be original so may have some interest to a collector? If there's someone here that would like to give the BMX a good home I would welcome it.

Did an RT87 few years ago.

Ended up with custom vented rotors from a chap in the South Island with MR20 Turbo calipers on adapters at the front and early EVO disc setup on the back.

I spent two days going through catalogs at Taranaki Brake and Clutch (mate owns it) and found nothing that worked as a package, found vented rotors but no calipers with the right offset or good calipers but no rotor that worked with it etc. This of course needs a cert.

Your Corona might be different enough that there's something to bolt straight on but if not there are other options.

I honestly don't know but the use of catalysts to aid mixture of different hydrocarbons is common practice, you only have to look at what goes in modern petrol to understand that (these days there more additive than Benzene).

I only have experience with Methanol in Speedway cars and TQ's myself and it's used straight with them and the number of hours running is very low and usually dry sump, I did have a talk with the owner of the rotary modified that used Castor oil and it was used it that to reduce apex seal wear and delivered via a separate feed so not mixed with the fuel until it's in the combustion chambers .

The Methanol was great for power and controlling temperature in the rotary but tip wear was so bad he was lucky to do a meeting without throwing one, the castor oil meant it would last 3 or four meets and the housings lasted way longer.

Never had a lot to do with total loss oiling systems, old 4 strokes shake to much for my liking so only ever had 2 stroke stuff.

High hours use of methanol in four strokes is something I've never ran into, long distance boat racing maybe? We don't really have any endurance racing categories here in NZ.

Benzene is Benzyl Alcohol (Main component of Petrol).

Methanol is Methyl Alcohol (methylated spirits when it has aromatics added).

Ethanol is Ethyl Alcohol (this is the one you can drink).
Acetone is part of the Propane Family.

All burn very well but don't like mixing so you use something to keep them combined when mixed is used (a catalyst).

Perfect example is methylated spirits added to Petrol to make water mix into the solution.

Fuck the random shit we know is awesome but of no real use till someone equally odd asks the right question.

Grab it mate.

Find an older port hole 2 door and do a conversion.

Instant fame once you have a build thread up and going.

Remember a Daihatsu is just a Toyota without the badge.

Really only for the low compression or full blown race engines (If you get it hot enough it actually burns like the petrol and gives more power) and in quite high mix rates 15:1 - 20:1, like most things in life there's plus's and minus's.

Cold dark place for storage of Castor oil and they would carry an extra spark plug, New ones required every 1000K's or so and you had to burn out the mufflers on a regular basis.

Only suitable for premix one tank full at a time, anything with a separate tank for the oil would clog lines and passages, be more drama than it;s worth.

Smell is pretty bad but always reminded me of the Speedway with dad at Bay Park (the old one) cruising in the recovery truck picking up the broken bikes and returning them to the pits, funny the things you remember.

It is old school for sure but that's what we're all about.

Here in Taranaki we had a Modified running a 13B in Stratford that ran on Methanol with Castor oil, it could go, the V8's couldn't keep up and the sound was epic, it would turn the headers white hot by the end of the race. That smelled much better but that was more about the Methanol I think.

SOHC.

A lot of the old 2 strokes up till the late 50's ran Castor Oil. Even today the small 2 stroke engines in RC cars, planes, boats etc use it with Nitro Meth.

That's Castor Oil not Castrol Oil.

I don't suggest you try the Nitro Meth although it might be fun I don't think it would be fun for long.

Lubrication is the key!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Coat every thing with a liberal amount of oil.

New rings will resist your advances due to the very sharp edge, even with a taper.

? Some rings have a top and bottom edge? Check.

Did you gap the rings? Put a ring (removed from piston) in the top of the bore and use a feeler gauge to make sure there's a small gap.

A workshop manual will tell you the required gap.