fishtailfred

On 09/08/2022 at 15:09, Nominal said:

Was it this car?

 

It's my 1967 Amazon wagon, not perfect, but one of only a few in NZ, never going on the interislander ferry, that's for fucking sure.

 

Pfft, my Volvos tow trailers full of goods eg small packet of kwila yesterday, not each other. As you saw last year, I fix on site with whatever's available Kai Iwi to Reinga to Hastings and back by RWD Volvo towing Volvo caravan, so far, and only a coolant hose let go once I like the idea of making a shirt and site, though, may just do that.

Dear Ben,

WHERE CAN I BUY THE TSHIRT?

And did you buy the domain?

Amazon T-shirts are decent quality/price - upload there and profit?

Regards,

A different old fool.

Truth re warping! Definitely take special care to not do that. But even with these Chinesium clamps properly torqued there is no way in hell they are going to overcome friction and rotate even with the mufflers hanging from one side worst case, let alone with a properly supported/mounted exhaust. Drill and dowel if you really want precision alignment.

As for road rash, if you have 3cm of clearance, I guess so as you could use a 2 bolt an keep the bottom pretty close to straight pipe, but for anything more reasonable and nur-spec happy (low cars suck there, and any real road) there's ample room to keep them out of the way of harm. Meh. You could always put a ramp in front of them which you'd have to do with a normal flange anyway if you wanted it to survive being dragged over stuff.

How's the FE3? On hold for 2 odd years since someone posted 2 threads on drag day and I asked a stack of questions in the wrong one that were answered in the other one and everyone got their nipples in a twist. I prefer my nipples straight, erect, and female, so gave the entire shooting match a miss for quite some time. Was watching some vids of it the other night, though, and had a yearning to feel the thrust in the back again. Have to resurrect it at some point, it's too good not to - will be even better with latest code, too!

WOF man said the old muffler wouldn't pass next time, so before next time with the help of a certain 2-post-lift-owning member's garage, I replaced approximately 1/3 of my Stagea exhaust with 3" straight through pipe/muffler. Gave it a start up, and a free rev to WOT a few times with just the new 3" straight through muffler, no pipe after, no main muffler and it didn't sound too loud even like that. With the rear muffler reinstalled it was back to near silent stock setup, but ready for two more exhaust upgrades and the new engine and manual trans setup. I wasted a few bucks on preformed cones to lead out of the stock post-cat pipe into the front kiwi made 3" vband flange, and the same at the back from the rear vband into the stock pipe pre rear muffler. Pics:

 

 

What I definitely wasn't going to do was spend cash on replacing the muffler with one the same size, ie, no work torwards something that wasn't the end goal for the car (600hp @ crank), so the only logical thing to do was make the exhaust modular by vband flanges so I can do the rear half next (and keep the stocker for civilised usage if desired) and the front half when I drop the built engine in. Car definitely isn't OS so no body work shots, but the exhaust build for it was discussed on some prior pages, hence update. I'll probably put a coby or similar where the cat currently lives when I do the front half for maximum muffle and smoothness. Until next time, adios.

I know exactly what's wrong with him. The testosterone needles the fat-old-man PO fitted to the seat has him constantly speeding and passing everyone on the left. I, of all people, struggled to keep up. No appreciation. Or perhaps sheer shame in OS circles for even still talking to me?

Another thing is wrong is that he doesn't smoke, and has to borrow a pipe from his old man and a seedy jacket from his brother (who wears it every day!) to look the part in this rather epic classic.

Looks old fashioned from back, but super sweet from any other angle. Inside the tunnel is so big they ensure your local chiropractor will be making a good living by offsetting your feet to the side, and on the passenger side there's not really enough room for my lanky legs possibly due to something under the floor (ECU, perhaps?).

Good on you for ignoring literally everyone and doing this!

Funny you should mention weights. To me the 50kg or even 60kg is a non issue, any steel jack is a stays-in-garage proposition anyway.

My decade old tired worn out Wayco is purported to be 42kg which is awkward enough to lift and damaging enough to boot interiors that you just don't want to.

For remote work I've found myself using scissor jack + lithium drill in low ratio, and up she goes.

However to go with the big-daddy jack I intend to get the 20kg (yeah, 6kg less than the semi alloy ones) Torin model.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a.asp?id=1593005899

They're a bit pricey (485 on tm, up to 1000 in shops), but when the scissor jack doesn't cut it, that's what I'll be throwing effortlessly into the car

The wear-over-time thing doesn't seem to me to be an issue as long as it's a secondary jack for trackdays or nightspeed or whatever, only.

I thought I posted in here ages ago, however here are the two best jacks for low cars, one is the best quality, the other is a bit lower/slimmer/cheaper/China/not available in NZ:

AC Hydraulics DK13HLQ http://www.ac-hydraulic.dk/en/products/hydraulic-jacks/dk13hlq/

Omega 29023B MagicLift http://www.omegalift.com/ProductDetails/OmegaLiftEquipment/2TonLowProfileServiceJack/29023B/763

The AC one is about a grand, but I'll get one at some point in the next year or so, regardless.

That powerbuilt 2 tonne ultra low Truenotch posted looks like it's pretty close, but I didn't check the dimensions - it is 1am, so... link to one:

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/jacks/auction-1577903115.htm

EDIT, ToolShed link as mentioned above for 100 less: https://www.thetoolshed.co.nz/product/5518-powerbuilt-jack-high-lift-low-profile-2ton

EDIT2 frame length: AC 940mm, Omega 1080mm (frame may be shorter), PowerBuilt 810mm, so it's close, but not quite the real deal. Pays to check your target car for distance from bumper/skirt lip to lift point and height of that skirt lip/bumper and see what will actually work. Alternatively drive the car onto some slim ramps as a starter device and lift from there.

Sohc, excuse my laziness and link a thread about your chosen Volvo fettish participant? Cheers.

Is it the lipstick or the high heels that do it?

Cap screws! Do they not exist in 'merica?

 

What's the ID of the ports, well, they're rectangles, what's the cross sectional area of the ports? And of the three tubes?

 

Those videos are a lot like (old) top gear - mostly just entertaining.

Another data point, i have been helping my work mate a bit with his 2j ma70, its making 530 wheel kw on 28 psi boost. It runs a 4 inch dump pipe back into a 3 inch system under the drivers footwell. So your dream rb30 may not be all that asthmatic with a 3 inch system. A good camshaft selection and a t4 twin scroll borgwarner are the only major mods other than fuelling and ignition.

Great data point! He has about as much in kw as I want in hp 600hp @ crank is my modest goal, though the HX52W will go up to around 850 crank hp which is roughly what your mate's 2j is running, and where RBs fall into pieces without extensive love Cheers!

The answer to every question in this thread about exhaust sizing.

 

Funny you should say that. This race car that runs my ECU:

(with flat shift, paddle shift, 2 step, blended load, engine dyno tune, etc)

 

Failed tech inspection on "too loud" and the in-the-field solution was to put a flat plate out in front of the exit which shaved off quite a few DB at least in the direction of the test equipment and got them through to the next stage.

 

Perhaps 3" with supertrap is the answer, though I think a 3" mild steel exhaust would have weighed about the same as half of that car.

By page 10 I was semi fired up and ready to have a fairly fiery rant at the lot of you (including those for whom I have some respect!), but then I hit 11 and Roman's excellent post where he mentions the previously unmentioned: LENGTH. Length matters.

 

Nice little tables, too, Roman! Good work. Pop that into a little JavaScript web app and give it three sliders: length, diameter, power. Animate it with a line graph and some colour and /thread. Well /thread for what it's become, which is about 25% muffler and 75% chanting 3", 3", 3" with mjrstar quietly making sense amongst it.

 

Pages 12 and up skipped.

 

Before reading through this I'd already planned these:

• KP60 blacktop = 2.25, 2.5 if I get excited, but probably not. Factory is 2 with restrictive mufflers and cat.
• Ute 2.0 DOHC Holset = 3 (~2.5m short and overkill, 18" resonator, oval straight through, tolerable noise level and smooth sound, but I'll add one more muffler to it at some point)
• Volvo 2.3 DOHC maxed td05hr16g = 2.5 (cruiser, max power not a priority, borderline sizing)
• Volvo 2.3 DOHC Holset 3 (cruise and drag race, transmission will limit power before 3" does)
• RB30DET with Holset HX52W 3 and choked by it, but I won't care...

One of the above exists, the rest are wet dreams that I'm steadily working towards... though I have most of the parts

 

Datapoint: factory KLZE 2.5 V6 @ 7000 RPM = 200ps = 2.125 or so with many mufflers and no sound 2.5 would be better. I see someone asking about this at the tail end of page 11. I wonder what answer he got. Spolier: 3".

Don't tell my wife!

No stress, FreeEMS is like a fine wine, it's taken years to produce, and keeps getting better. Also, for those that don't like fine things, and think they taste sour, there is MegaSquirt/beer

 

Thank you so much for that document! Perfect! It has literally everything I need aside from the calibration

 

Where's the new pad, roughly? Just curious.

 

PS, you'll have to try MUCH harder to scare me.

Mikey, that day you took me for a spin in this, it somewhat stole my heart. I was thinking about it for a week solid like it was some girl I'd met. However I had NO idea of the amount of hours and the detail you'd poured into this thing. Tonight I was on the phone to a chick friend in Wellington talking about a certain road trip that might occur in YAC (yet another car) soon, and on the topic of Nissans, I was telling her about your car. I said "there must be a build thread, so I'll find it for you". I found it. I read it. Even more impressed than I already was. 10/10

 

PS, I just bought a throttle body and pedal JUST like yours to dev with, so if you do take the plunge eventually, I may have the PID parameters dialed in for that unit OOTB I don't suppose you know the pin outs of both pedal and throttle, do you? I've not really tried to find out yet, just being lazy while I'm in here writing this

Sweet! 240 wagons are my second favourite Volvos, beaten only by Amazon wagons, which I don't want to afford. I fell in love driving a friend's one around in Vancouver running my software. Such nice cars to drive!

 

Re the rust, it's a shame they didn't start galvanising them until later. No rust in my one, really. A piece of bare zinc in the tail gate that hasn't changed in a year

 

Also beware pre-90 wiring, which is described as "biodegradable", can't find the picture of a rats nest of bare copper, but it happens.

 

Question: Are the tail lights OEM or replica? And from whom/where did you buy them? Mine are OK but some fresh ones wouldn't go astray.

Ancient bump, but I used ordinary ice to do this today. Just in a normal bag, straight out of the freezer, thrown on the ground a few times to break it up. https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/726304915207811072

 

It just stiffened it up enough to crack/separate more easily with hammer blows. I wasn't too worried about modifying the steel beneath, though, if I had been, it'd have been less successful. https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/726305152827715584

 

I took three sections off about 375mmx375mm total, and my goal was as yours, weight removal, but for a very different reason. Weight removed was about 560 grams. Yay.

 

Afterward I had a grubby bag of ice that I didn't want to put back in the freezer, so I tipped it into a bucket and put three bottles of Rochdale cider in there. A fitting reward for an afternoon's hard work

18th April 2015, my 240 wagon, the same one deemed not OS by the OS clan leaders some time ago:

 

"Some bad news though, wont be running it on my own hardware for the next little while, because the code (FreeEMS) isnt good enough to handle the factory trigger setup, so i'll have to write my own code to do that and there isnt enough time for that before burger boes"

 

Just to clarify about this statement, it's not that the code isn't good enough, it's that the code doesn't exist. In FreeEMS the things that read engine position are broken out into entirely separate things called "decoders". There is a decoder for 36-1/60-2/etc, another for 24+1/12+1/etc, another for evos/mx5s, another for RB20/25/26/30, etc. No one has ever wanted to run an engine from a signal this devoid of useful information. The actual code required would be in the order of 50 lines and half an hour (mostly copy/paste). It would suck, though, just as it is sucking on MegaSquirt and sucked on the factory ECU. Hence my advice to attach a missing tooth wheel to a pulley and get some good data to do good things with.

 

Anyway, new code or new trigger wheel, I'm looking forward to helping Ned get his hardware working and start rocking FreeEMS in the new year Should be good fun.

 

 

What will you have in the way of datalogging/feedback when your own ECU is going?

 

Same as if it were a megasquirt? 

 

 

Different. In some ways FreeEMS datalogging is a lot better, and in other ways it's worse. Similar, though, random log image from my viewing app here:

 

FreeEMS for life, yo!

 

Not sure what Ned did driver wise, but I'd be very reluctant to run different driver setups on the same engine for different channels. No reason you couldn't hack it to add or swap a channel from LSD to 12v ignitor pre-driver, though if keen.

 

Semi-sequential/timed 2-shot batch is a nice way to run an engine without much thought/care, though. Idles smoother and happier than poorly timed sequential and is only sub optimal with boost and huge injectors, however even then it's fine.

 

Wasted spark is also fine, with the only down sides being setup time timing light woes and a ~15k practical rev limit. IE, non issues, for the most part. With 6 COP units you can simply run two from each output in wasted mode. The down side to this is twice as much heat load in the coil, or so the naive n00b might think. It's actually slightly worse, as the coil that's firing on the waste cycle into highly ionised exhaust gas is basically firing into a dead short, so will absorb more of the energy as heat. Nevertheless, this is generally fine if the dwell is dialed in correctly (a requirement anyway).

 

In summary, yes, you can run 6 cylinders with on/off VVT pretty well. With this hardware? Might require a slight hack to work 100% well.

 

Looking forward to seeing this board in the flesh and resurrecting my reflow oven

 

Fred.

Taking me seriously is the last thing I'd want anyone to do, Opo! I object to the term "retard" though, that's insensitive to those people a few beers short of a six-pack (or a few rekorderligs short of an apple tree, for that matter!), and in fact also to the 28 degrees of advance that I was running.

 

Seriously, though, (not that I'd take myself seriously either, but...) there's no OS sticker on the car and you've told me time and again that it's not OS anyway, so realistically it didn't draw any negative attention to anyone except the hairy driver of it, and he's clearly no one to take seriously anyway. In contrast to this, half the OS cars are louder at idle than my tin can is at 5800. Additionally, "keep it clean and leave the meet in a civilised fashion like grownups" must consist of accelerating strongly between the little road and the left hand corner, as that's what most people (except me) did while leaving (I didn't even hit 50 until after the corner). I'll try to conform in future by clipping the rev limiter in gear like everyone else

 

Since when are the meets weekly? That's a little excessive, don't ya think?

 

Last time there was a rev limiter hit at an Auckland event I attended it involved no exhaust and flames and beer and a huge round of applause from EVERYONE, my, how times have changed!

 

 

Fred. 39YUXIKrOFk

Fun night! I apologise for the slight wheel spin when leaving, it was unintentional (you could tell by short duration and lack of smoke cloud). I do not apologise for the rev limitering of a cold engine, that was intentional and just me being a dick/me (I like the sound ). You will like this though, serves me right: It had NO oil in it. Cruised through to the shore and light was flickering by the time we got off at constellation drive, pulled straight over and put 3.5 litres in it LOL. Woops. Tough engines these old 4g63s

 

PS, damn good to see sparky!

 

And a themed video for the evening:

 

And I got home to my kit for driving these silly injectors, no more 6am crash starts