might_e_mowse

Nah its not the wastegate, after running the engine for minutes and the temp is up the wastegate pipe is still cold. Waz, ill be in touch to see if you can sort this mystery!

Yeh its always hard to diagnose problem like these over the net but thanks to all those giving suggestions and ill post up what the culprit was when i suss it out...so frustrating!

As far as misinformation goes, you're the one who'se the keyboard warrior with no experience.

As far as the actual problem goes, there isn't one apart from the fact that you're trying to do an upgrade with the wrong turbo, the end result being a downgrade, like just about every other twin to single conversion.

Steve

Unkeen to stick up for wayne because hes a cunt, but as for him being a keyboard worrier with no experience. He may not be very articulate and resorts to swearing at cunts but hes rebuilt a shit load of turbos and built some serious turbo cars this shit is his job. All you do is beat around the bush and cause arguments not one of your posts offers a sugestion or solution for this dude to try. Why do you bother

Thank you i agree, steve can you just fuck off.

Well actually this setup has been run on many 1ggte's with impressive gains for little modification.

OK how about i start fresh!

Oil going into turbo, oil coming out of turbo smoothly. The oil drain is almost verical and goes back into the original drain hole to the sump.

But no there are no leaks in the intake system as it drives fine, if there were leaks it would stutter as the a/f meter would think there was more air going in than there actually was.

Its not a ball bearing turbo, just oil float.

Im guessing i might just have to take my problems elsewhere as we seem to be going round in circles with the added pointless non-helpful remarks. I think the only way im going to sort this is just take the turbo off and pull it to pieces to make sure no crap is stuck in there.

if it has much pressure it will have shitpiles of drag

if it did have a bb restrictor it woudl atually spool better

turbo's dont run on pressure they just require flow ..... what size is your line ??

also what was the other motor it ran fine on and what parts are different to yours ?

cheers

Im not sure what size it is but its 7mm O/D and says 'speedflow -3' on the fittings. So a restrictor would be the way to go?

It was off a 1ggte same as mine and as far as im aware it was stock as is mine.

ok well i have made some sort of headway.

I changed the oil to a 10w40, it didnt make a difference. BUT i took the oil line out of the turbo and ran the car just at idle and revd it a little bit, the turbo spun perfectly. At idle it stil doesnt spin but if you rev it at all it starts to rotate.

Surely this indicates that the oil pressure is wrong doesnt it??

Any ideas??

Thanks for all the ideas, but yeh this setup was running fine on a similar car.

Just a thought, oil viscosity?? Im using 20w50 as i always have in this engine cause its quite old, do you think going down a grade ie 15w40 will help this problem??

have you tried holding it at high idle and such?? somehting is either terribly wrong or something so stupidly simple has been overlooked

and cos im not there and i havent run across this problem before i cant help a great deal sorry

Nah cheers mongol, yeh ive tried holding the throttle open a bit. Im hoping something stupid has been overlooked, but it looks like ill be taking it all apart (AGAIN!) and slowly ticking things off that it cant be.

so is it normal to feel more resistance in the shaft when the engine is running?

Can anyone shed any light on this?

i dont know about this cos even the turbo on trucks spin at idle and they are big motherfuckers, but they duty cycle is completly diff

well are you spinning it the way the turbo normally would or against ??? , i cant really see any reason for resistance to pick up a hell of alaot cos number one you should have oil in it already , and number two most turbos ive looked at *and ive seen a fuckload* the oil is generally squirted onto it and not fed into the bearings so it sholdnt make much of a difference

Im spinning it the right direction (clockwise).

Yeh if anythin i would have thought that the resistance would decrease with the engine running but it has noticably more resistance.

The more i look into this the more i think i was jus too much of a bitch when i drove it but im sure i took the revs up to at least 5000rpm (no tach) with no boost response.

Well here is a pic to give you an idea, you can see where the oil line goes into the side of the head, just further back is the other oil outlet which i have blocked up. Oh and take no notice of the blocked hose coming out of the top of the wastegate, that was a mates failed idea and has been since removed.

so is it normal to feel more resistance in the shaft when the engine is running?

Can anyone shed any light on this?

If your oil pressure was too high the oil would most likely bypass the seals and you would have smoke for africa. Have you go a boost gauge? Are you sure that there are no exhaust leaks or intake leaks? Do the turbine and compressor wheels spin in unison, ie are they both attached to the shaft?

Yeh i have a boost gauge but not hooked up yet, i will 2moro and see what it reads. But yeh its not smokey at all. Nope no exhaust or intake leaks. Im not sure whether the turbine and compessor wheel spin in unison now but they did 2 weeks ago before i got the exhaust plumbed up. Surely it would be a hell of a mission for the compressor and turbine to dislodge themselves from the shaft right?

hmm im still not too sure, i have taken it for a drive and it only boosted about 1psi im assuming as i could only just hear the bov go and had no pull at all.

But something i just realised is that it was twin turbo so i have just plugged up one oil feed and one oil return, will this cause the oil pressure to rise too high? maybe the oil pressure being higher gives it more resistance to spin at idle. If so could i just change the oil connections to a narrower hole limit the oil flow to the turbo a little more?

weird why it wont spin with the motor running yet it spins if the motor is not running - only difference would be oil pressure going through the turbo, heat and possibly vibration.

maybe some turbo gurus here can shed some light on this

Yeh i thought it was sumthing to do with the oil pressure as well and spent about an hour making sure there was oil flowing, but the old owner had same engine, oil lines, turbo, manifold etc and it supposedly ran fine the day before it came out.

Hey, i have a t3/t4 and it seems not to spool whatsoever.

When the car is off and i spin the compressor side it spins relatively freely, then when i turn the car on at idle it wont spin at all and when i try to spin in it it doesnt feel free at all, like its catching on something. If i raise the revs a little it will sometimes starts to rotate but if i give it a bit of help it will spin and remain spinning until i drop the revs back to idle.

I havent hardly driven it as i dont want to do any damage but there is definitely oil going through the turbo and all the i/c lines are plumbed up without leaks.

Im no turbo guru but shouldnt it spin, even very slowly, at idle?

The turbo is second hand from a trustworthy seller and has very little kms on it.

Any help appreciated

yeh get some radiator flush from repco or supercheap or wherever, u put it in the top of the radiator and jus let it idle for about 10 then drain it all out. if your still not happy then try the hose thing.

Are all the w5* box shifters interchangable? I got the ga70 one which i believe is w57 but need the rear shifter.

yeh the flange takes most of the hits but the resonator is gettin a little bit as well.

unfortunatly there are no hangers, just a metal rod from the body to the exhaust. i could try shorten them i guess?

I got a 3" exhaust put on my gx71 nd at the lowest part sits approx 50mm from the ground and scrapes like a bitch, every speed bump, and even when the road curvature is too much.

I can only load the car up to 3 people max which really sucks so what can i do to fix/help the problem.

after havin a look underneath, the exhaust from the floor pan is anywhere between 3-5cm at parts and could probably be raised a little but im not too keen to fork out more $$ to almost rebuild it.

Can i put a metal sheet or somethin similar underneath to protect it??

Any other ideas?

PS raising the car is option F