QCADTA

just looking at your ignition setup, whats the ignition module mounted on? these get hot and over heat if not mounted on a heat sink with a bit of heat paste in between etc, and cause the issues youre describing. It could be when the ignition module cools back down it restarts fine, fire it up and see if it gets hot and youre problems start when it does.

is your radiator cap lower than the top hose? hard to tell from the photo. if so this could create an airlock causing your issues. Try raising the radiator so the caps the highest point if it isn't.

Do you have a alternator warning/charge light on the dash? if its glowing very dim good chance a diode has gone, the more that blow the greater the glow, or if you have a multimeter handy, put it on ac and measure the voltage from the B+ term of your alternator to ground, this is measuring the dc ripple, with your engine running it should only be 0.5v ac, any thing greater and youve most likely got a cooked diode . whats your connection like between the back of your alternator to the battery post? if its shit this will overheat ya alternator and cook ya diodes. 

is the wobble more on the left front than right?

Yeah took it for a run round the block in the weekend, done about 50kms in the four years since it was road worthy. Just got to get off my arse and take it in to get some stripes put on it. The mk2 seems to take up most of my time.

Ive got a bosch 910, in the boot beside the tank, no swirl pot, works well with a escort tank. Had no problems with the fpr but as said they are noisy pumps. Are you sure your coil packs arent breaking down under full load? Or just looking at your build thread, is your AFM straight on your turbo? they like a bit of length between them so the turbulent air does mess with afm. Mine used to cough a bit up top until i changed it.

Escort tail lights earth through the body, so only a switched +ve feed to them, no -ve. check you have continuity with a multimeter between the lamp holder and the body with the lamp holder still in the tail light. If no good give it a clean or even a good twist to get a better contact. Happens to mine from time to time.

this is a common problem for old escorts, your rack and pinion internal bushing will be flogged out. I replaced mine following the haynes manual, piece of piss if your slightly mechanically minded, whiteline make them. http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W11113

Also managed to fit in the oldmans ff2000, not really made for people over 6ft but alot of fun, running a 200hp+ pinto.

New year a new colour. Just sorting the stripes. thinking black with white on bonnet, but also keeping orange all round. Opinions welcome. Also got another two escorts now, 2 mk2 2 doors, one a spare shell for my race one im building, already has arches, 4 link rear with watts linkage, turreted, adjusties etc but thought I should get this back on the road first.

hey ya'll

 

been a while/forever, but Santa has come early with a brand spanking roll cage installed to my almost race car and i have to paint it over the holiday break.

 

Have chosen to brush on por15 and have some commercial cleaner/degreaser for cleaning down cage first.

 

What prep work do I need to do after cleaning it all? Any tips/hints appreciated also.

Dont use por 15 where the sun can get to it, it doesnt like UV and have seen it turn to a shit powder unless you paint over it.

Get a Gizzmo coil to square wave converter off trade me then if it doesnt run on a coil pick up.

your distributors electronic (points less) but you run a coil with it? just connect it to the -ve side of coil. whats the resistor for, to cheaply convert tach signal?

Done this to the escort not long ago, got a remote central locking kit from supercheap with spare remote for not much at all on sale. mounted receiver under drivers side under dash as the length they gave to reach the actuator was just long enough. Hole in door and hole in a pillar, couple of bungs, not a hard job to do.

if your after more caster get concentric top mounts or just take 15mm out of ya arb to pull the tcas forward more, like this

and then lower the front of the arb with something like low n slow did.

looks awesome mate well done, that is indeed a nice stance. Your working rather quickly!

very nice mate. Love a budget build being as tight as i am, looking forward to the numbers.

i too would check ya tps, if someone can help you check it with an ohmmeter to see its working, if its shagged and only giving ya a 100% reading to ya ecu youll only get one ignition table causing it to run like a bag. Just an idea. How do O2 sensors effect these engines?

looks like its going to be a good project mate. I reckon the beams would be ideal for it, as said cheap and reliable. As said open class needs an open budget. The smaller engine classes in the clubmans down here look like they have the most fun, closest racing, and its not costing a fortune. Ill be going 20v 4age in another escort for this reason.

may be a silly question but ya fans are blowing not sucking being mounted on the outside?

if its not bad aryldite it mate.

Thats good to hear mate. Nothing like a win on a sunday.

not a problem, let us know how ya get on. When i say undo, i mean just loosen it enough to turn the dissy.

So could it be a vacuum leak? usually adjust timing by undoing bolt that hold dissy to block and turning the whole dissy while keeping an eye on the timing.

nice engine build, how much was the sq water kit? seems a shame to do a nice job then have the dizzy stickin out the front, why not run the honda da17 cop's? For a thermostat i was lookin at runin a bmw remote one, think theyre arouns 71deg so about the same as a trd one.