rob

what about using one of these to press/push the spindle out? should be able to use it in-situ.. known as a bearing/brake drum puller iirc.

as other have already said, heating shit up can help free things - but it might pay to be cautious. blasting your steering/suspension components with heaps and heaps of heat could potentially warp/weaken them.

i have nothing what so ever to add so i guess ill just shut my mouth.

yeah you need to get them done by someone's who's certified.

for example: pete's customs in chch told me they weren't certified to do it, but they gave me the name of another outfit in town who can (royce clive).

if its done by a pro the lvvta don't complain

sweet man, thanks heaps!

sounds like im off to get some 6mm id pipe nipples

will post updates/pics when theres some progress

checked the ballast resistor? (assuming it has one)

I wouldnt be concerned about how they would affect the airflow through the runner when you have made an adaptor plate like the one you have. The welds and change in diameter will have more of a negative effect on your airflow then having a small hole drilled into them to feed idle air pressure in.

the manifold has been buzzed/milled out, so no ug welds on the inside - it looks hoary-as-fuck from the outside, but the part that counts is nice-n-smooth

it does change from round (the itbs) to oblong (the ports), but i dont see any way around that.

the bypass valve would be controlled by the megasquirt - means i can adjust the airflow with a computer, easier than buggering around with the linkages imo

im pretty much 99% convinced that an idle-bypass is the way i want to go - i'd like to retain the efi niceness of ease of starting/warm-up etc.

if someone with some spare 20v itb's could measure the diameter of the bypass holes in their runners/manifold for me i'd be forever grateful

cheers,

rob

+1

not after mexico-style flares but my ae70 ht will need its guards rolled/lipped and i'd like them done properly and as close to factory-looking as possible

check your radiator hoses.

i had a teensy tiny itsy bitsy split in one of mine (so small it was almost unnoticeable), but it was enough to make the car run about 1/4 hotter than it should. replaced hose for $8 and she runs like a minter now.

also whats the condition of the coolant and the oil? could be a blown HG/cracked head..

they can be pretty sneaky sometimes.. I've had blown head gaskets that didn't foul the water or the oil, but if you took the cap off the radiator you'd notice the odd bubble coming up.. this made the car run hot too.

roman: yeah - im still mulling over the approach i'm going to take.

so far i've changed my mind from slightly-opened butterflys, to bypass pipes in the runners controlled by a valve, back to the opened butterfly's after reading that a bunch of people here are running them this way and now i'm leaning towards the bypass in the runners again - go figure

my biggest concern with the lines tee'd in to each runner was that it would negatively affect the airflow through the runner, but after reading up and finding out thats how factory does it, i figure it can't be all that bad..

i have read that map sensor with itb's can be a bitch - but due to how my bodgey manifold is, theres very little space for an airbox of any kind - so running an afm would be a bit of a challenge too.

kpr: if you could measure the diameter of those bypass hole's in the factory manifold that would be awesome!

the engine is just a stock standard smallport - only reason i'm running the itb's is because i've pinched the smallport intake for another project i've also got a set of gze injectors laying around that i thought i might chuck on there...

its just in a kp60 with a k50 - so its not gonna be a driftweapon or anything. it can get pretty chilly during the winter down here (chch) so i'm liking the idea of having a factory(ish) idle setup.

going to be running the ms2 with the tps and a map sensor - and an additional map sensor for real-time barometric correction

my friend who is doing the megasquirt is concerned that slightly-opening the butterfly for idle may negatively affect the throttle response during engine deceleration, especially when under no load i.e. changing gears.

considering that all of factory systems (that we've seen at least) set their butterfly's to close completely and use a valve that by-passes the butterfly, do any of you think that being able to close the butterfly's completely would improve the throttle response between gear shifts?

maybe we're being too pedantic here..?

cheers,

rob

More money is lost though tax evasion than dole budging fucks, rich white businessmen exploiting the system then use poor hard working people as their scapegoat.

Very true. Dole bludgers make up an incredibly tiny portion of where your tax dollars go. Corporate bludgers are the real criminals. The whole fuss about people "ripping off the dole" is a smokescreen used to get the average-joe to support cuts to welfare spending while giving the rich pricks big tax breaks under the false assumption that they too will become rich (once the darn gubmint stops takin' all mah monies!).

Don't forget that taxes also pay for education, healthcare, the police, the justice system and basically everything else that keeps society functioning as a society. Without these services the country would quickly succumb to rioting and looting.

If you look around the world, the least-violent, most highly educated societies all have high tax rates as this equates directly into better schooling and living conditions which translates into a happier, healthier society.

Sorry about the OT rant, it's just the misconception that "dole bludgers" are living a life of luxury on the backs of working people is not only completely false but also (I believe) harmful to our development as a society. Picking on people at the bottom of the heap and kicking them while they are down there isn't really the New Zealand spirit IMO.

Anyway, the only reason the government is raising these charges is to pit the public against ACC (the same reason they are trying to fuck over the bikies with their regos). After about 6-9months of this sort of carry on, NZ'ers will steadfastly hate ACC and therefore won't kick up a fuss when the government suggests that it "fixes all our problems" by selling it to an Australian Insurance Company. Whoopee! NZ tax dollars going across the ditch and into the pocket of some already-stinking-rich prick who'll then turn around and tell you that your accident costs won't be covered due to the position the moon was in at the time it occurred.

My 2c

hi guys, thanks heaps for your replies

my original plan was to set the stops to open the butterfly's a little to provide a "base" amount of airflow and then provide extra air (for cold starts etc) with a stepper motor operating on the linkage.

so ive had another look at the TB's and you guys are right - there is a bypass in the TB itself! can't believe i missed it because its also shown on that page i found with the 20v itb info.

thing is now i'm unsure why the factory setup has the additional bypass pipes built into the manifold.. something to do with having the engine being able to run in a *huge* range of conditions (like arctic circle/sahara styles) maybe?

i had assumed that i'd need control over the airflow (either via stepper motor operating on the linkage or an electrically-operated valve) in order to have trouble-free cold starts etc, but if i can get away with richening up the mixture and just having the butterfly's statically set, then that sounds sweet to me.

since you guys reckon it'll work fine with the existing TB bypasses and opening the butterfly's a bit i think i'll just roll with the TB's as-is.

sounds like they should be work well enough to get it running at least - if it proves to be too much of a pain in the butt getting it to idle nicely i'll look at getting the extra bypasses drilled.

p.s. i'll be using a megasquirt to do the spark and fuel on this thing

ok.. so a while ago i picked up some ITB's from a silvertop 20v that have been butchered onto a smallport manifold which let me use the smallport fuel rail.

only problem is that they're missing the idle bypass pipes that the factory 20v uses to keep the engine going when the butterflys are closed.

from what i can tell, other "off the shelf" 20v-itb-to-16v manifolds suffer from the same problem - at least the one that t3 sells appears to...

i briefly toyed with the idea of a stepper motor setup to operate the butterflies, but decided that it would probably be difficult to tune and was unnecessarily complicated when compared to an idle bypass setup, which would consist of some pipes and a single valve.

i found some pictures of the factory setup:

(came from http://www.my-acoustic.com/Car/vacuum/4_throttles'_vacuum/4_throttles'_vacuum.htm)

but because of my fuel rail, theres not really any space to have the bypass holes coming in from above like the factory manifold, however there is enough space on the under-side of the manifold to sneak them in.

the bypass holes would be going roughly where the black X is, indicated by the red arrows. this is the same layout as the factory setup, but coming in from the bottom, not the top.

so, i have one question and need one favor

the question is: can anyone see any problems running the idle-bypass holes in from below?

and the favor is: does anyone have a factory set of silvertop ITB's laying around that they could measure the size of the bypass hole on?

cheers,

rob

Losing the ability to drive wherever you want at any time is degrading to our rights of free expression.

I totally agree. If I found myself foul of this law I'd definitely be considering getting a lawyer and fighting the charge on the grounds that the law is at odds with our right to freedom of movement.

Coincidentally, Bob Parker (Mayor of Christchurch) was speaking at the select committee when I arrived, I missed the first part of his submission, but at the end he said:

"We need to push the Bill of Rights to it's limits to deal with these people"

I'm pretty sure the government received legal advice regarding the cruising law and the Bill of Rights, they managed to find a lawyer who said something along the lines of the offences not being serious enough to warrant having the Bill of Rights applied to them. Sounds like a fucking load of bullshit to me.

http://www.stuff.co.nz/national/politics/2986199/Car-crushing-boy-racer-law-passed

Ok, so they've passed the crushing law too.

The article states that you earn a crushing by committing 3 serious offences in 4 years. Its not clear if they consider "cruising" to be a serious offence, although its serious-enough for you to get your car impounded...

Not good

Mr.Mk1:

If you're middle-aged in a newish holden commodore you'll be fine, If you're under 30 and driving a Japanese car watch the fuck out

Yeah, the law is going to be pretty bloody ineffective at addressing the problem, but it'll still manage to screw over a whole stack of people. The Govt will point to these people and claim victory, but noisy cars will still keep old ladies awake at night and young people will still keep cutting their suspension. Sigh.

I attended the select committee in Christchurch where the government pretended to listen to people's concerns about this law.

IIRC: If you are caught "cruising" you get a yellow sticker on your car that cant be removed for 2 or 3 months. If you are caught "cruising" again, thats an instant impound.

If you're unlucky enough to be lumped with one of these stickers, cops will be able to spot you as an easy target from miles off and will come down on you so hard your ass will bleed.

This method of visually identifying those whom society has deemed undesirable might seem familiar to some - The Nazi's forced Jews to wear Stars of David.

This isn't over yet though, those useless pricks in government are now working on passing that ridiculous car-crushing law.

CrusherCollins claims that only the worst of the worst offenders, the ones who repeatedly get their cars impounded, will be the only ones whose cars are facing the crusher - but now we have a law that essentially makes driving your car an impoundable offence...

I got the complete altezza IRS nugget off trademe for $575 inc shipping from auck->chch, it came from some car importer who was removing it to replace with a factory lsd as this one was "too tight".

Definitely worth getting the whole thing cos chances are your 30-year-old f-series diff has pretty tired pinion bearings etc and these swap over fine from the altezza diff into the live-axle housing. Of course you could always buy all new bearings...

Cost me $280 for the guy to fit the lsd, pinion, bearings etc and a new pinion seal. $80 too much it would seem. Damnit.

Since getting this done, I've been told of another guy who does gearboxes & diffs in chch, will be visiting him next time I need something like this sorted.

because its not tuned for 91...if you had it tuned to run on that, then there you go..

what would tuning for 91 involve exactly, retard the timing a bit? go so far as to re-jet carb?

you might aswell just blow all ya gas money on avgas

not sure that running 95 in my car equates to blowing money on aviation fuel, all i said is i've observed my cars run better with 95

So?? i run 95 WITH the additive?? it has new valves as i got them for my birthday and new seats [i think]

sounds like if you want to be sure you should go back to guy's who did the work on your head and ask if it's ok for you to run unleaded fuel with your new valves/seats/whatver. but like shizzl said, it'd be pretty unlikely for someone to rebuild a head using bits that couldn't handle modern fuel, so chances are you won't need the additive.

i wouldn't run 91 in my lawnmowever

seriously though, all my bog-standard, rattly old toyota motors run smoother when supping 95, dunno about "extra power", but quieter/smoother running is worth the additional few cents per litre imo.

I have a '79 rt132 and I'm pretty sure it's got a steering box..

When I did the conversion from steering box to rack & pinion on my ae70 corolla I needed:

• [*:1asqjiyt] Rack and pinion steering column
  [*:1asqjiyt] Rack and pinion steering column shroud-thingy (end of the steering column slots into this and then it bolts to the firewall)
  [*:1asqjiyt] Steering rack (obviously)
  [*:1asqjiyt] Steering rack engine cross-member
  [*:1asqjiyt] I also used the lower arms, but I think the steering-box lower arms would have been fine.

Got all these pieces from a steering-rack ae70, everything fit up with no mods.

I'm guessing the same would probably apply to your car - find a rt132/tt132 with rack steering and grab all those bits I listed above, swap them into your car and you should be right

This is assuming there are t132's with rack & pinion (does someone know?), if there aint you'll have to find a rack setup from a different car (maybe a newer corona?) and chances are you'll need to do at least a few modifications to fit it.

hey rob could you measure the diff you have and confirm its width from hubface to hubface?

Im looking for a 4x114.3 disk braked solid axle f series and the width of your diff is roughly the same as my current e series thats 1460mm.

Hey man.. diff is still in pieces at the moment, but I measured it with a tape before I pulled it all apart and it was 1420mm from hub to hub, give or take.

ma46 is a US spec'd supra.. which we didn't get?

Hrmm.. The guy I bought it off actually said it was from a MA63, but I've never heard of one of these being live axle so i figured he just got the numbers mixed up (63 -> 46?). Might be a MA63 diff then, not a 46

Its 4-stud disc brake and about 1420mm wide. Looks identical to MA46 pics I've seen on the net.

good to hear it worked out. are they still adamant the original crown/pinion wouldn't work with the lsd?

Yeah, I think the old guy was telling me they used the c/w + pinion gears from the open diff, but swapped over the pinion + carrier bearings from the IRS diff, but I recognise the open-diff's gears from the marks I made on them to check the ratio and they're both sitting in my bucket of leftover bits, not in the diff.. Cheers dude, have come across heaps of the stuff you've written on the net and it's all been ace!

looks like a cusco unit

Yeah thats what the old guy said - in good nick too apparently

Sorry bro, I believe my diff is out of an MA46 Celica/Supra, not a Crown.

BUT this shouldn't matter, as all Toyota 7.5" F-series live-axles share the same diffhead (afaik anyway), so if your Crown has an F series diff then this swap should work for you.

I just started asking questions on this thread after I came across it looking for info on F-series LSD setups and noticed there were some knowledgeable people posting here

Ok, so I called the diff shop this arvo and it turns out they'd just finished with my diff - all fit in sweet they said. Awesome!

Go in after work to pick it up and talk to this older guy who gave me the impression that he was the one who actually did the work, turns out everything inside the Altezza IRS housing, including the crownwheel and the pinion + its bearing, fits into the live-axle diff housing, no spacers or any funny business required. Also for this LSD at least, there was no need to trim the axles.

Internet: 1, Younger cunt at the diff shop: 0

Stoked!