J2Racing

me thinks so I had a MK2 capri with the pinto. Mine got one hell of a thrashing and came out swinging every time.

Maybe he has had one to many tui or maybe he has an interesting idea. For me I like the history behind the Essex. The fact that it was the first production V6 in the world , and that it was designed to be petrol or diesel. It was pretty high tech for it's time. Now it's just my favourite dinosaur.

[ did anyone mention that a pinto has 5 main caps with an unbreakable crankshaft and the essex has only 3 mains and loves to jump out of bed? I would also choose the pinto if I wanted to keep it period.. but here is a good read on the essex i found: http://www.geocities.com/zephyr_mark4/essex.html Yes your right the essex is weaker in the bottom end . Which means the pinto would make a far better engine for a race car. Luckly this is not. I don't realy understand how the pinto is more period as both motors where produced during the 70's. and to get realy anal I think the essex came first. Plus it is factory for this car.

Ok so you don't have the brain capacity to understand basic physics I'll dumb it down a bit.... Torque and power are (almost) flip sides of the same coin. Increasing the torque of an engine at a particular RPM is the same as increasing the power output at the same RPM. Power is just as useful and relevant in determining vehicle performance as is torque. In some situations it's more useful, because you may not have to play with gear ratios and a calculator to understand what's going on. A car accelerates hardest with gearing selected to stay as close as possible to the engine *power* peak, subject to the traction capability of the tires. Not all cars should be shifted at the redline for maximum performance. But it's true for many cars. You can determine optimal shift points by graphing horsepower vs. velocity or transmission torque vs. RPM. Engine torque alone will not determine shift points. FACTS=FAST The fact is I'm not realy to worried what is more important torque or HP fact is I wouldn't fit a 4cyl to my factory V6 capri because it's not what I want. The whole reason for my project is to build what I want. Not for resale value, not as a race car, and most of all not a show car. It's for FUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yes and again compairing apples with apples why is a modern 2L engine like the SR piss on a Modern 2L diesel? Because diesels make more torque, petrols make more HP and petrol engines are faster. That's not compairing apples with apples there is a 25% change in torque and a 12.5% change in HP which means the torque change is going to effect the out come twice as much as HP. Rather than using numbers that have been near anyones arse lets use maths Power (hp) = Torque (ft-lb) * RPM / 5252. Power is also force * velocity, specifically: hp = Force (lb) * Velocity (MPH) / 374 The force is the sum of the longitudinal forces at the contact patches of the two driven tires. P = F * V ...rearrange to get F = P / V ... that means that you get the maximum force pushing the car if you maximize your *Power* at any given velocity. Shift to maximize engine POWER, not engine torque! So if you did have your 2 Mk3 Gotina's and 1 was 200hp and 150 lbs/ft the other was 150 HP and 200 lb/ft the 200HP would win. bla bla bla bla

who metioned front whhel drive?

The essex does everything I want it to do. Sure there are better V6 about thats why I'm not running one in my race car. Thw whole idea of my car is for it look period. Going faster is a plus. As for the resale vale of a jap power capri. Now thats 2c worth

Yawn

hp = to many DB's torque= burn out

I know all abouy the cam gear that is an easily fixed problem. Sure I've seen these motors knock the heads clean off the block. But what engine doesn't have problems. Sure I could fit a jappa. But then why go to the hassle I could just buy a jappa As for the pinto. Only two things come two litres. Milk and juice. Having said that not many other engine will take the abuse thay will. No essex will valve bounce half the day and still come back for more. Horse for course. If you want to win the traffic light drags go the jappa. If you want to cruise in 70s style it's essex all the way.

Wow you know so much about cars I should of asked you first. As for them being shitters with no power. I have the TVR web site here somewhere I think you should contact them. Cos they had them poking out around 220HP . And as for binning the injection on my 3.8 whish you had told me before I bought this computer for it. Gee your smart

Cool thnks for the info. The old man knows someone who used to work for hamilton jet. As some people may know they used the V6 alot. I think he did alot of desgin work on the inlet manifold too. I'm to lazy to go talk to him. Guess I have to now

seriously looking at a over bore to 3.1 new cam bigger valves port the heads all the stuff that makes old pomy cars go much better.

Do you mean wiil they be big enough? Sorry I have not dealt with this sort of thing before.

Not to stressed about linkages redline do a heap of uni linkage kits . What are manifold runners?????

Sorry the throttle percentage equaled about 5000RPM. Any idea if it would work or not. Getting the top plate tip welded in is not a worry. My best mate is one of the best tig welderes in the country.

mechanical I think a while for me on these to, Just a dirty old cortina carb. We just thought of how we could use the cheapest possible carb. These sound quite practical too. Last one I bought cost me a dozen been icncluding inlet manifold.

It has been suggested to me to go dual carb with 2 34/36 weber. Anyideas on this. The plan is to mill the top out of the inlet manifold , and get a new top laser cut that will take the two carbs. Can the second throat on the carbs be reset to open earlier. I had a MKII capri 2L and the second throat didn't open till 5000RPM. Bit late for this motor.

Try BNT also they do the NOLTEC different compond to nolathan infact slightly harder. Trouble is normaly comes in blue. Nolathan normaly comes in red. Which make it alot easier to get a wof. They can see it's new. Or black if you want to go stock. Can be a bit hit and miss on colour. When I used yo work for REPCO all under the same part number.

how high did you have your car when you brushed it on.

I used POR15 Metal Ready http://www.por15.co.nz/POR15Prod/metalready.htm Followed by POR15 http://www.por15.co.nz/POR15Prod/rustprevpaint.htm Then coated it with underseal..... I didn't want to do it again how did you get the underseal back on, Some dumb arse has taken it off the floor of my capri. Been told it never had it. But as the car was sold new in CHCH it was done before it went to the yard. I know you can spray it on but how the hell do you get it high enough to work under it. Using axle stands I'd still need 6 midgets on roller skates.

Yipe sorry I thought the RS3.1 road car had the Quad cam engine. Funnly enough they reckon there could still be a kit in india of all places.

I stand corrected on that one. According to "essential Ford capri" 1000 where meant to be bulit for homologation but only 248 bulit officaly. Funny thing is they use a weber 38 . I think this is the standard V6 carb could be wrong. I have a spare block or two may have to over bore.