l1ttle_d3vil

is the shaft gonna fly off at all? or are there other reasons?

yes. any number of things can fail on the driveshaft, uni's, shoddy welds etc etc.

other than possibly flipping your car, it could also cut your fuel lines if they run next to it and fuel + heat = bad.

not unheard of. and as said, im pretty sure it is a requirement for any engine conversion.

are all old radiators copper? got a feeling my old corolla radiator was copper, and i ran that with a 4age in for ages and never had any problems.

heres a couple... can do more later if you want

ive heard it doesnt leak out over time like air does, among other things which i don't remember

yeah ill be around, but after hours would suit better. give me a txt - 027 2808 288 - but don't call because the phones stuffed

if you want to bring a box of beer and your loom i'll label everything up that you need to get it running too

yeah as I said, the engine loom gets pulled out but this plug is completely separate to it so always gets left. the other one which is forgotten is the alternator plug...? did you get that too?

i've got the 14p ecu plug here if you need it.

cheers

-matt

if the car passes first go is everything done there and then? or once passed do you have to go back later once they have all the paperwork/plates etc finalised (like a cert)?

yeah that plug is not for the ecu, only stuff you need off it to run the engine is cold start switch and the tvis power from memory. rest is just junk.

but you do need the 3rd plug for the ecu to run, as there is a relay/ign connection and a batt connection for the ecu memory.

see if you can get the plug off the car, otherwise I'll have a look in the shed for one. if that fails, just go to a wreckers yard and check out any similar year toyotas - they generally have similar plugs.

just asked as I'm going to auckland this weekend and could give you some pointers on what to wire up as i've done a few of these now.

its makes it easyer if you can track down the last reged owner of the car and get letter saying you are now the owner of it with sig on it.

If you cant then it becomes alot harder.

yeah I was a bit skeptical of having only the email, but didn't have much choice as the guy was overseas, but VTNZ themselves told me an email from the guy with all the details is fine. I've also got the original number plates, rego + WOF stickers from a couple of years ago when it was last reged which helps.

Has anyone seen a revin inspection done? Take the car in complete and hope they don't damage it? Are there any VINZ centres where the guys are fair?

I've spoken to a VTNZ station and a separate shop (not vtnz) who do revins regarding my 1972 corolla and neither have told me anything about stripping the car down. they said it is a visual inspection only, although a very thorough one. if its newer than 91 they will strip the car back, pull panels, doorcards, wheels off etc etc.

you'll possibly need new seatbelts, and brake lines (flexis).

last thing I done was take it to the guy who does my wofs and told him to find anything and everything remotely wrong with the car which vtnz might not like - then I can fix the stuff before they even see it. i am trying to get the car as tidy as possible before taking it to them, as its already fairly modified so i'm already in the "boyracer asshole" category. im replacing all my rubber brake lines with new stuff anyway just for peace of mind (around $200 for them all) but will see if they fail me on seatbelts first as its around $400 for just the front set so would rather avoid getting them if i can!

What do they class as suitable paperwork for proof of ownership?

And what's the deal with getting a car that needs to be certified and re-vinned?

i had an email from the guy (car was sold on behalf, owner was overseas) stating the plate, date and names of buyer/seller. VTNZ have said this will be fine, they will just give me a form to take to the cops to confirm theres no interest in the car.

cert and vin sorta get done at the same time, you need one before you can get the other, but you can't get the other before you get one

whats your "3rd plug" look like? same as the pic below?

did you remove the setup yourself? are you sure you got ALL the plugs for the ecu?

the 3rd plug is often missed as the first two are for the engine sensors etc but the 3rd is connected to the dash wiring so gets forgotten about. it needs to be cut off the dash wiring, then the appropriate wires connected up once in your car.

where are you located? auckland?

im going to rotorua this weekend if its any help...

not sure if its the same for all - i assume they can't be too different - but for a 4age you just need 4 connections to make the alternator charge:

12v+ batt (on alternator plug)

12v+ ign (on alternator plug)

warning light (on alternator plug)

and 12v+ batt which goes to a separate terminal on the top of the alternator.

the 12v batt / 12v ign / warning light can all be found on the plug for the external regulator. pull this plug off, test the wires to see which is which and use those wires to wire up your new alternator, then remove all the old regulator etc. and try not to blow shit up

PMd

99% sure it would be externally regd, unless its been modified.

here is the wiring off a 3K, should be all the same if yours is externally regd.

I have these plugs and the regulator if you need them. the bolt terminal will also be a 12v+ BATT connection, won't charge without it.

IF it is internally regulated, it should only be 3 wires + the bolt terminal which will be batt still. other 3 wires would be 12v+ batt, 12v+ ign and warning light.

where are you located? i just pulled this wiring out of my car for an engine conversion as im running an internally regd alternator.

also have the old external reg if you don't have it, plugs etc. Could probably track what most of the wiring does. From memory though all 3 wires on the actual alternator plug went to the reg...

yeah ive heard a few good things about tga, would've thought they'd be pretty anal though considering the "boy racer problems" they have!

someone has also mentioned the ultra tuff muffler shop at the mount, has anyone else been to them?

yeah thats one of the branches im referring to, theres alot of people who work there and I guess it depends who you get. some of the old guys can be difficult, ive heard of them requiring steel cut out of vehicles and sent away for testing (at owners expensive) just so they can give it a COF. the local MP got involved then all of a sudden the vehicle could pass without the test...

ive taken the rolla to vtnz whk to clear up a few questions and the guy at the counter seemed pretty stoked with the car, shame he wouldn't be the one to do the test

I need to revin my '71 corolla soon, fairly modified but nothing dodgy on it that i know of, all certed etc.

for obvious reasons I'd rather not get it revinned at a branch known for being extremely "difficult" so if anyone knows of a vtnz branch in the bay of plenty with some good cunts there, let me know.

cheers

Probably got a corrupted database after being spiked.

Steve

so what save current file and reload into ecu after reset?

no, because if thats the problem the current map will already be corrupt.

thats why I copied my tune to my PC before I started rewiring my car, just incase something bad happened

if you don't have a copy saved on your PC and the ecu map is corrupt the only way to fix it is a retune. but in saying that, when I had mine tuned the guy saved the map to his PC at various stages. not sure if he keeps them for future reference or anything, but might be worth checking if your tuner still has it on file.

specs + howto here: http://forums.toyspeed.org.nz/viewtopic.php?t=29042

you just undo the two screws on the side and you can twist it back and forth, and check with your multimeter until you get the correct resistances etc. but it may be stuffed altogether so if you can't get it right, or the resistances are already correct it'd be worth trying another one.

its weird that it is only happening when warm though...

check your spark plugs, i once had a crack in the side of mine (the white part of it) and it wasn't firing properly, would miss and stutter until 4500rpm then run perfectly...

its like you're either ON THROTTLE or OFF THROTTLE, no happy medium?

fuxd TPS, or its not set correctly.

the other stuttering common on 4ages is only when under full throttle, when the coil gets damp. clears up once the coil is dry again. generally happens after driving for a while in heavy rain or something, depending on where your coil is mounted.

most guys are quite picky about what you share vacuum lines with, as in the external should be a dedicated line as it is quite critical, similar to BOV.

just pick the two least important things

Had a shitty old 4 door KP starlet... rusty as fuck, steel wheels, mismatched panel colours, yada yada.

sounds just like my mates starlet, but a "handjob matte black paint" as the cop described...

rangi as car, would get pulled up so much but it was 100% legit. was funny, cops would follow it then pull it over and spend the next 10 minutes trying to find something illegal with it. they fail and hand license back literally without a word.

Where's tits at. k33n on them

titties!!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v175/f1erce/

and someone elses photos...

http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l20/roo_tme/

you kids aren't under age are you?