l1ttle_d3vil

i take it your actors will need to drive it? PM me if the other car does fall through and you get stuck...

1: I would be 1 taking him to small claims court for damages as he has ruined your diff

wtf morgan!! he can't even make a clean cut with a grinder!!

i would definitely be trying to take him to court, his number is up there ^^. just get an address for him then the court can serve the summons. if you win and he doesn't pay up they'll take some of his shit on your behalf.

its not like its a $50 job, so I'd definitely be after him if I were you. give me a yell if you want any info on the small claims, i've taken people there before. or go see the citizens advice berau (cab) in town, they got lawyers there who will give you advice for free, tell you what sort of case you've got and what info you need etc. good as cunts.

2/2*100 = 100%!!!!!! boyah

I'm shit at maths so i'll copy this guy...

* 1975 Toyota Corolla KE35, 4age etc. Daily (literally) for a year or two, never missed a beat.

* 1971 Toyota Corolla KE25, 4age turbo. Weekend + drag car, much fun to drive (dry only)

so 2 / 2 = 1 x 100 = 100%

Camry is in the missuses name, and doesn't get used daily. Yusssss........

recommended oil is SAE 75W-90 or 80W-90 and it takes 1.7litres.

you can fill it up through the shifter hole, slowly.

not sure how much it takes before it spills out though,

but thats how i've always done it anyway

10psi saw mine blowing off.

a better clamp might fix this, but the standard hose clips generally shag themselves if you tighten them enough to hold against ~10psi pressure.

ive got old as fifth-hand hose clamps on my pipes, only blown off once running 15psi and that was after I'd had the pipe off and it was greasy. been meaning to bead them and/or get proper clamps, but hasn't caused me problems yet so not a priority. other setups might be different but mines been all good.

while on this topic, if anyone can get a 45º 2.5" - 2" reducer please PM me.

i got a bit more time now, so just to be more specific, for a 16v bluetop tvis engine/loom this is what you should do. Most required power sources can be connected to the loom at the separate plug pictured above. I haven't got one of these looms in front of me so might not be 100% accurate with colours of wires. Wire colours changed after the bluetop so won't be applicable to later models. Also you'll need fuses on some of this stuff which I haven't mentioned.

Lastly, ALWAYS take the cover off your ECU and check which pins are which, to make sure you are altering/using the right wires. These pins possibly differ between fwd and rwd bluetop engines, SO CHECK YO SHIT!!

12v Ign source for

Injectors - 'BF' terminal on the ecu, on the 10p plug. This provides power for injectors etc. Think this wire might split off and can be found on the separate plug pictured above.

TVIS solenoid - Solenoid has two wires, one goes to ECU to which switches it and is fine as is. The other I think goes to the plug pictured above and should be a black/yellow wire which needs the power.

ECU -

Needs to come from a relay, and go to the '+B' and '+B1' pins on the ecu on the 14p plug.

Coil/ignitor - This wiring varies depending on what model you have, some have a single 4 pin plug, others have a 2 pin plug and 2x 1 pin plugs. Two wires go to the ECU for the engine signals. Third wire is black/yellow which will be the power feed, might be on the same wire as the tvis solenoid? Fourth wire is brown I think which should be an earth.

Coil/ignitor must be earthed through its body/bracket too or won't run.

12v Batt source for

ECU - Needs to go to 'Batt' pin on ecu, on the 14p plug. For ECU memory.

12v power with key on start ONLY

Cold start setup - This is a black wire on the centre of the plug pictured above. Will also be connected to the STA pin on the 10p plug of ECU.

Alternator

This requires 4 wires to charge. If you have the original 4AGE alternator plug, it goes like this:

Thick white wire - 12v Batt feed

Black/yellow wire - 12v Ign feed

Creamy yellow wire - Warning light feed

4th wire is a 12v Batt feed which is bolted to the post on the side of the alternator.

If none of the above means anything to you, put everything down now and send it to someone who knows what they're doing.

methinks its a fwd bluetop with TVIS - has had manifold altered from f-tugs for bum-push

do you have all 3 plugs for the ecu too? one of them (the 3rd one) is part of the dash wiring on the vehicle, and often gets missed but you need it for the +b and +b1, and batt terminals.

pop the cover off your ecu and you'll be able to suss out which pins are which.

the wires to power up tvis (black/yellow), injectors, and STA pin (thick black wire in centre of plug i think) should be found on the plug at the bottom of this pic. can't remember where the coil/ignitor power wire is, probably on this plug too. it'll be the black/yellow wire on the ignitor/coil plug anyway, just can't remember where the other end is!

yeah what model ecu/loom? if its rwd 16v i can tell you exactly what wires you need.

if its 16v, you'll need:

switched power for injectors, tvis solenoid, coil/ignitor, ecu, alternator

batt power for ecu, alternator

sta power for cold start setup (just one wire)

also coil/ignitor must be earthed through its body/bracket too or won't run.

think thats all off the top of my head...

Little Devil, can you send me the high res versions to bmwsparkle@hotmail.com

Done. Let me know if they don't come through.

Do you reckon you could make a predominantly white one that would look good?

yeah, would be no problem to reverse it out so black text on white background.

zep - thats a lot of text to have on a business card size.

would be quite small once printed...

Im down like James Brown for those ones. Mean. Print it at your work's cunts.

if you're referring to mine, they are low-res jpeg's i've uploaded. if you want to use them i'll email you a hi-res PDF of it, probably best to host it somewhere and whoever wants it can download it and print them off themselves. won't be a huge file, but will be clearer than the jpeg.

That one's perfect!

haha agreed, straight to the point

I've added a second version up in my original post further up. Just a different design which is a bit less "formal" and maybe more appealing to the younger crowd...

chur. got the image sorted for now. here's what i've put together, pretty much along the same lines of what people have suggested but just tidied up a bit. At the moment it is A5 so can be printed two to an A4 page and cut, or it will go up to A4 / A3 or whatever you want. I've changed a bit of the wording slightly, but any suggestions/alterations are encouraged

does anyone have a copy of the OS font? I know its called classiccar, but need to find a copy so I can install it on my computer.

also if anyone has a hi-res copy of the logo, or even just the car itself, can you flick me a PM?

cheers

-Matt

im a graphic designer, can put something together if you want to send details through. can also get them printed in colour on glossy card and trimmed etc for not bad prices, PM if you want details.

Not many dents, but a fair bit of rust in cunty places. A drag you say? haha, Id get well and truely fucked over, what about a race up a windy mountain pass?

haha, won't be running 12psi until i'm comfortable with the track. never been to the drags before so sorta shitting myself

5psi is making 124kw atw so would be interesting.

sorry, I don't condone racing on public roads...

...but since you mention it, do you know of any nice windy roads in the area?

damn 5g is alot, is there even much rust and dents?? putting out pretty damn good power for n/a. will you be taking this to the winter drags?? i'll be keen for a race if you are

Damn, thanks anyway DB8.

I'm not sure how they work, think its referenced with the MAP and/or TPS but you can adjust the duty cycle alone in PClink.

I put the gearbox back on before I got the backing plate sorted, will be a job for next time the gearbox comes off

You should be able to use any boost control solenoid (in/out dependent) shouldn't you?

possibly, but the duty cycle may need to be adjusted to suit each one wouldn't it??

would rather swap it with one exactly the same while trying to track the problem so i know exactly where i'm at.

cheers DB8 - let me know.

Its a long shot but there seems to be more Whakatane users here than anywhere...

Does anyone here have a LINK Electronic Boost Control Solenoid which I can borrow for 20 minutes??

I'm now running 20psi instead of 12psi. Would be fun, except the engine isn't tuned for that much boost.

Cannot find anything wrong so am wanting to borrow a solenoid to see if it fixes it - just incase mine has sh!t itself.

Don't want to buy another one and find it doesn't fix it

I can still bring the car to you...

Cheers

-Matt

the car has done 300 kms since new turbo and its going extremely well.

hmm how much boost you running though?

i used to have some of them, but the water temp started reading 95º first thing in the morning...

I have a question as well

Should it go at the back in case the uni's break but what happenes when it slips out the box?

Should it go in the front to stop the front digging in ?

Should you have 2?

front uni snaps it'll dig in and try to flip the car.

rear uni snaps it'll create a nice shower of sparks thats all.

only time you need two is if you have a two-piece driveshaft.