l1ttle_d3vil

at a guess it would either be a dizzy problem or ecu problem, possibly map sensor but i would try the others first. get spares of them to try so you can rule them out, could even be dodgy dizzy wiring.

had a 4age way back which had a couple of wires on the dizzy plug mixed up and every time it started the timing would be different and would run like ass, wouldn't rev etc and the timing would always go the wrong way. swapped the wires around and it went fine after that.

did you swap the dizzy over from the original engine onto the new block, or did the new block already have a dizzy that you left on?

yeah that would be mint if you could sam. there are 3 different ke7# strut measurements listed on marks website - http://www.toycrazy.net/tech/struts.html

not sure if there is a difference between sedan and wagon struts, looks like there could be from the info mark has got there.

thanks ryanfels, ke70 wagon measurements look very similar - 87mm strut bolt spacing and 45mm strut tube OD. anyone got a ke70 strut they can measure to confirm?

Ideally I would like to replace the steering arm with something that fits the strut properly. At the moment every time I take it apart it buggers up my wheel alignment due to the slop from the slotted steering arms. Need to replace some balljoints etc so may as well do everything at the same time to make sure it all fits properly.

I'm wanting to replace some stuff on my suspension but need to know what my struts are off first. They are bolted up to factory KE2# steering arms, but these have been slotted to fit the struts as the bolt holes are slightly wider on the struts.

Pics and measurements are below. Centre to centre of the bolt holes is around 87.5mm, and the holes are 15mm in diameter.

Only clue I've been given so far is they're possibly off a Corona. Anyone got any idea on what they're off?

Thanks

-Matt

Its quite common for them to do that. I never ran the cold start injector on my bluetop and it always started first turn and idled fine

From memory the cold start injector only fires on cranking anyway, so shouldn't effect the idle up etc at all.

in where we gona go tho???

BK, Noodle Canteen, Pak'nSave carpark etc? Could be keen.

I may be able to get access to a small private concrete pad for skids if wanted too. (when I say small, I mean enough room for standstills and not much else)

had a similar issue with the parents STi, my brother spent forever trying to track it even to the point of swapping the entire diff setup from another STi one night, only to take it for a drive and it still clunked.

Turns out it was just stones getting into the spring seat and wedging themselves under the spring over time...

Hmm, strange my tyres don't even exist - 225/50/15

To give you an idea, we put mud and snows on when we want to loose traction not gain it, the only thing they are good for is skid comps!!

I got a couple of brand new ones for burnouts too, would they be any good for drift days? Or would they wear out far too quick?

Didn't realise they were illegal though - have a couple on the rear of the Corolla at the moment... 155/13s ... wet ... 185kw atw ... 700kg vehicle ...

Woops. Better go get rid of them...

Short answer: it isn't legal. Cutting springs in any way shape or form is illegal full stop.

Just because some WOF officers don't notice "one or two coils" missing doesn't make it legal to chop a coil off.

i was told once they're all done and trimmed up, put a thin coating of nail polish or something around the edges. you can't see it, and it stops them peeling.

seems to work so far for me...

could be a dodgy water temp sensor, the green one on the back of the head.

unplug it and start it to see if it makes any difference. if it runs even worse with it unplugged, it must still be working.

try unplugging the TPS too, if it makes no difference to how it runs it's probably stuffed.

not sure if this would effect the timing, but if when you rev it it runs like crap but eventually revs up etc, check the TPS is set correct. even swap it over incase just to rule it out completely.

also it has to have a map sensor fitted, should be a black box with vacuum line and a yellow round 3 pin plug, original plug on the loom should be near the injector plugs.

cant find much info on 3 wire dizzy wiring. i shortened the dizzy wires but put it together as it was, so if it was wrong to start with would it run funny, if a couple of the wires were around the wrong way or would it not run at all?

double check these wires are around the right way. did you just wire them up so the wires match their colours between the loom side and dizzy side of the plugs? because these colours definitely vary between models, eg G- signal is red or white, NE signal is red, black or white depending on what model you've got. suss out which pins are the G- / G1 / NE / on the dizzy plug and make sure they go to the appropriate pins on the ecu itself.

I had a few problems with mine ages ago when two wires on the dizzy were around the wrong way, pretty much every time it started it would run differently due to the timing being in a different place, and would advance instead of retard etc. BUT i think when i finally got it running right, the wiring colours didn't match up from the loom to the dizzy plug. also make sure the wires on the dizzy plug you reconnected have a good solid connection, if they don't they can cause similar problems to what you're describing. ah so many possibilies!!

i wouldn't...

previous owner did that to his calipers before i got the car, luckily they failed while i was doing burnouts...

(thats brake fluid leaking down the side)

Had builders in our house that day...

Looks like selleys all clear...

time for some target cameras?

pull one of the plugs and clamp it onto the block and crank it to see if you've got spark.

try some different HT leads.

mine did a similar thing ages ago, left it another night and it all came back to normal. never worked out what was wrong.

also why only 9 volts? usually 12......

i wondered that too, but i stopped there. what voltage is there when you're cranking? most ecu's need atleast 5 or 6v to power everything while cranking so if its dropping too low might cause problems. try hook a jump start pack up to make sure you got plenty of power...

otherwise must be a faulty earth or sensor if the ecu and loom have been replaced. how do you know there is no injector pulse? did you check it with an LED or you just know the injectors aren't firing because fuel isnt getting in?

i assume you've checked one side of the injector plug has 12v with the ign on?

you haven't accidently hooked a power wire up to a wire that loses power when you turn to start? ive seen that done with a fuel pump before

including the cam angle sensor wiring

maybe the ecu doesn't realise the engine is turning over now? mine wouldn't fire the injectors / coil a while back because the ecu wasn't receiving signal from the dizzy, was showing engine speed as 0.

and check all your earths. fit more for good measure, especially from block to chassis.

ive heard this before too, but also heard the hair dryer can't blow sh*t compared to the factory fan/heater setup in a car.

but also heard both of the above on the most knowledgable internet forums, and not tried it for myself...

Wonder if they'd let us nab this:

wouldn't be hard to take "your own", slightly similar photo

Well, simplya way around that could be, instead of trying to predict how many calnders maybe sold that year for an annual thing, instead of making them specific to the year "2009 oldschool.co.nz calender" for instance, you could do them as 'oldschool.co.nz Calender First Edition'

therefor its not year specific, so you could say buy the calnder in june, and use it from there, come janurary, go back to the start.

good idea, I wouldn't mind helping out with the graphic design side of things if you can't find anyone.

as for the generic calendar, each day is different every year - 7th October 2009 is Wednesday. 7th October 2010 is Thursday. or am I not following what you mean?

looking good, current wheels suit it very nicely - good work!

wiring didn't give you too many hassles i hope??

theres a guy on toyspeed - strx7, his partner megan is an insurance broker at Bay Insurance Brokers - 07 578 0739.

she's given me a pretty good price for full cover on my ke25, considering im under 25.

so its together, we tried to start it last night but not getting any spark or pulses at injectors. had a read through the info's above and will check a couple of things today.. any pearls of wisdom would be much appreciated!

pull one of the plugs off any injector and turn the ignition on, see if theres 12v on one of the terminals. if not, thats why it isn't firing.

check if there is 12v at the coil and ignitor too, and make sure the coil is clamped to the body properly as they earth through the clamp.