Speedyrr

If you leave original engine in place, shifter will be about 120mm further back with the longer sigma 5spd box (can cause problems with the handbrake area. L200 ones are langer than standard 4spd box but have shifter further forward than the sigma ones.

Otherwise try and get an old GTO 5spd gearbox and driveshaft. I think they will both bolt straight up from memory for easy conversion. Can't remember if clutch is the same between the 16L and GTO though.

If you get right offset then big tyres fit the rear.

Pic is of 14x6 mags with about 125mm backspacing (I think off the top of my head) 195/60/14 tyres front and rear.

Fronts have about 3-5mm between tyre and strut, and come out nicely to outer line of guard. Rears could quite easily fit 225 with no issues for rubbing.

I guess if lower profile tyres were used then a 205 or maybe 215 could be squezed up front with perfect off set wheel, without flares.

I was generally talking about the rwd 13x7 modgies, hotwires etc.

Pic of 13x6.5 performance spitfires with 235 rear, fills out the flare area but lots of room inside

I have a few of the colts now. The fitment is basically the same between the GTO and the 16L, give or take a few mm.

In general I've found the aftermarket rims ie cheviot hotwires, performance wheels etc have an offset that doesn't quite match these as well as it does for other cars like older toyota's. You will find they stick further out and will leave 20-30mm easy between inside of tyre and strut area up front for example ie much wider wheel track.

You can fit 13x7 with about 205 tyres on the rear but will be close to the guard line, same mags on the front will stick way out. Trust me on this as I have a set of 13x7 cheviot hotwires on one of mine now. Back looks good but front will definitely need flares, or have to put the 13x6 hotwires up front.

Another one has performance 13x6.5 spitfires with 215 front and 235 rear, flares a must for these.

I've also noticed if you want to have that nice line down the side of car for front and rear tyres/wheels the rear should be a wider rim and or different offset from the front.

You will notice how with the stock 4.5" wide rims that there is a lot more room to play with going out at the back than the front.

Depending on how you want to line things up and size of tyre look for a backspacing of around 120 to 130 to suit the front, 6 to 6.5 wide.

Again all depends on rims, tyre brand and actual size etc...

Hope this helps

Hey everyone

Got a project car that's had the bonnet flicked back at some stage. Someone must've forgotten the bonnet pins as it had no latch in the middle

I've got hinges to replace the damaged ones but it has pulled the subframe part of the bonnet away from the top in places. Was wondering what to use to glue it back to the top?

Had a mate go off road once. Rolled car down a farmers fenceline. All the wires rolled around car and tightened up like a noose. All door held shut and they had to get out of where the rear windscreen used to be. Lucky no one ended up dead.

On another note I've been riding bikes on the road for years

YES I Know its higher risk

YES I know I have to ride for everyone else on the road, just in case

And YES it costs a lot more for me to have my bike on the road

But I just don't like those cheese graters that are being erected. It's crap when there's enough things to worry about when riding, without extra hazardous so-called safety devices lined up by the roadside.

I'd hate to slide off by one of those and have a leg or arm sticking up, then left behind. Or if I was in one of my pillarless 2door coupes, not much roof structure there if the wires came up a bit higher. Instant convertible

This topic has come up just at the right time for me.

I've got another colt that has had the front springs changed and the back lowered. The guy has used 50mm blocks, reset leaves, but it now has extra leaves in the rear from stock. My intention was to put an original engine and gearbox in it so I can use it for a daily driver for a while without having to cert it. Eventually it will be modified and certed but not sure which direction that car will go in yet

So just to clarify with the car lowered, front springs captive with standard shocks- leaves reset with 50mm blocks, I should be fine and not require cert.

Will the extra leaves change that? Because I've got a standard set that I could swap over in the meantime.

Just don't want to cert car twice in the longterm

OK then, here's a long term comparrison for tergo blackguard.

Car outside for 6 years, on the left rusty bare metal sanded and 2 coats of tergo with a paintbrush, on the right rusty patch with no attention at all.

The treated area is bubbling a little underneath the surface whereas the other patch has completely blown out!

I swear by this stuff for ease of use and it is really effective.

If you do go the ford 8" way check this out for diff head TRACLOCK 4 SPIDER LSD UNIT http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 48.htm?p=3

Here's my newbie view.

Well I'm big on the reading, but don't post that often unless it's worthwhile saying.

There's a lot of info to go through when you first join, that takes a lot of time in itself for the slower 56k bound.

Also have to take us rural folk into consideration. I sometimes take a break from these forums for a few months over spring, when the workload is a bit ridiculous , but I keep an eye on OS.

Suspension and engine a bit of a grey area. Depends on who you talk too. As long as you clear the 100mm mark and still have spring retention when car jacked right up then it shouldn't be a problem.

As far as the engine goes, they came out with a straight 4 cylndr 4g52 2 litre sohc engine, cert wise you can replace it with an engine up to 20% more power without certing as long as its a straight bolt-in and its the same family of engines, can't go from 4cyl to v8 with the same power for example. Some certifiers look the other way as a 4g63 is basically the same just newer. I know of someone that replaced there GTO enigine (125hp stock) with a sirius 4g63t (150hp stock), so it was right on the limit of 20% horsepower but bolted staight in. And in his case no cert was required.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... d=74024664

Check this guy out on trademe. Q&A section has a link to the appropriate pdf file lvvta wheel widening and spacers also.

Nice to hear its up and running now, and putting some cash into your pocket rather than taking it out

Pity my internet connection is crap at the mo, might have to go somewhere else so I can check those youtube vids out.

Go the "16L" or for the states "dodge colt"

Yep... Dished vr-4 pistons are the way to go, thats what was done to my engine in the GTO. Don't forget the import sigma's (I think) for the fwd sirius dash engine either

Given that the GTO with the 12 valve turbo runs a Link, I think I'll stick with that eh. Microtech would also be worth looking at due to ease of installation

Are you referring to my car? The link in it is very old, although I have been considering an upgrade one day for it myself. The dash motor has dished vr4 pistons already with standard injection system. I've got a garret t25 turbo for it, possibly look into mpi, a bit of work to the head, new ecu link... viola!

But I'd be interested to see how your one goes in the end.

I've actually got a spare 12v dash engine, but is only tall block, no wiring, ecu, dizzy etc... so can't help with the afm supply either.

Hoodie and tee arrived yesturday. CHEERS!!! Hoodie just the thing to keep me warm on those frosty nights wandering around the workshop.

Thanks heaps for that. The dash engine in the GTO in currently run by an old link, but I'm still deciding what to do with the extra dash engine I've got. So this will help if I find another ECU or something in the future.

Got one

Cheers

Hey what did you find and where, as I'd be interested in the same thing for my GTO. Cheers

I've got mine with the AA. The 16L on $5k full cover classic, 5000k travel limit per year, $80. Not bad I thought. Bit more exspensive for the GTO but that's modified and worth a lot more.

Well it's finally time to take the old girl off the road for a while. Everyday use and not always being garaged has taken it's tole on the paintwork. The 16L has the spot rust raising it's ugly head. Problem is whether It will get the quick fix or the full restore back to stock.

The GTO is getting used a lot more often now but the paintjob on that has turned out to be shite. There's signs of little bubbles all over the car's paintwork now, less than a year since I brought it with a near new paintjob. So that's going to have some "time out" in the garage as well in the near future.

I've collected way to many colts in the last few years and the project options are numerous to say the least.

My next mission may be a 1850 fixed up to use as my runabout, with a for sale sign on it. If I get the right offer, cash in the pocket. This'll free up space and mean I can have the other cars off the road to give them the attention they deserve.

I've sourced a crash damaged 95 fto, which will be a donor car for the GTO in the end. V6 2L 6A12 engine, theoretical 180hp standard, with 120k's on the clock. Biggest mission's there is fitting in the engine bay and the connection to a rwd gearbox. Might be a bit of a nightmare in the end but I want something different.

By doing this I will have the sirius dash engine from the GTO to put into one of the 16L colts. I intend to upgrade the turbo and intercool as well if there's enough room. I'm wanting to do this one up with all the GS badges and interior.

So all in all there's a lot of organising and time required. But at least the plan of attack is in writing now. So much to do ....so little time

I've included some more pics comparing my 16L and GTO front ends to make up for those that would rather look at my cars, than read my crap.

http://img366.imageshack.us/img366/3442/v22le.jpg

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/8872/v30vl.jpg

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/3488/v42cu.jpg

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/809/v59qj.jpg

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/9003/v67wh.jpg

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/4711/v72kj.jpg

http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/8350/v80ov.jpg

http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/9123/v99we.jpg

I've noticed lately that a lot more of the old colts are starting to change hands, especially on trademe. I think the 16L is highly underated considering there going for aroung the $2-5k mark, the 1850's seem to be a little less, while the GTO's are still under the $10k mark for one in good nick. What do people think about this?

It's something I'm weighing up as I do more of the old 2-door coupes up. What they seem to be worth finished and how much money I would have to sink into them doesn't add up the best right now

And which of the 3 models would be the rare pick? There's plenty of GTO's hiding around the country, but you don't see them out that often. But you don't often see 1850's either, and even less of the 16L's.

howdy gentlemen. the car in the first link is mine. i pretty much gave up on that site as i get harrased by the moderators for whatever reason when i post there now. the car is currently not running as the convertor took a shit on me. its on its way back as we type. the car is a rocket and i would highly recommend this swap to anyone interested. its not hard and the motor bolts in with Mighty max motor mounts. if you have any questions ask away id be happy to answer them.

Hey John, hows the colt going? Looking forward to seeing some info on your car on this site. Been looking for progress on the other site for your car but obviously that isn't going to happen now.

On another note what hapened to 4GAZM's car on trademe, has it sold or what? Just checked the link and its got the ominous "withdrawn by administrator" page up.

I remember that it had a lot of new parts in it and was wondering where you got them from and what $$$ were involved for stuff like new interior panels and the like.

yeah man ur rite aye

ah well shit happens...

That it does. Just remeber you mgiht have to put the hard yards in to find it as well, like you posting info on this site.

I had a motorbike stolen a while back, did the whole legit thing. Went to the cops etc... When I finally found it I went back to the cops. All the paperwork that I filled out for the theft had gone from the front desk, out the back door and magically dissapeared. They hadn't done anything.

I found it in a backyard chop shop with a different engine in it and had to get it back with a little help . I was lucky to find it let alone get it back.

Best of luck to you, I've been there and it ain't that nice.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/members/0001-0 ... 713461.htm

Check this out on trademe if you're after a good solid jack that can handle the weight, has a low height, and a low pricw tag.

I got one of thes a while ago for $155 delivered of this guy and I use it on my smaller cars and the v8 as well with no problems so far.

Hope this helps.

Spare parts car 74 GTO for a bottle of bourban, most parts there except seatz...SCORE

Definitely kill switches, obvious and hidden ones. Knew of a guy that set an extra one on the seat rail, always flicked the seat forward when he got out and had to have it set just right for him to turn that kill switch off. Very personalised. Or another with a bank of about 16 switches that had to be in a particular order for it to work. Just depends on how much you want to protect that precious chunk of metal sitting on rubber.