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rednfast

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Everything posted by rednfast

  1. Ran it with straight water when first started after rebuild. Tried pulling off the fan belt and the noise is still there. Tried it again just before. Engine was dead cold. Started it and the noise was very quiet. Over a period of 3 minutes it got louder and then stabilized. It is very loud. You can hear it from the back of our house. Once the noise is at full strength a light white/blue fume starts comming out of the oil dipstick and oil filler holes. As I said before though there doesnt seem to be excessive pressure in the crank. Though my last car was a 4age which had quite high crank pressure standard so Im only comparing to that. So Im fairly sure the head gasket isnt leaking, would it even make that kind of noise if it was? Its a really constant whine/squeal. I have found that if I rev the car to 3k rpm quickly and then pull my foot off the sound almost seems to stall/stutter 3 or 4 times then goes back to normal.
  2. Nah its just a standard mk2 engine. You can have all my b33r if you get it right. Seems like there are a zillion places they can whine from seeing all the suggestions. Funny as my last escort went for 5 years and never made more than the odd rattle from the valve gear.
  3. Where can I find the vacum booster? Looked through the manuals I have and cant see any mention. I had another look at this today. The fumes comming from the crank are back, seems cleaning the vent into the intake was only a temp fix. So it would appear something inside the engine is too tight and scraping or worn. The presure when putting my hand over the oil filler hole doesnt seem eccessive. I did reset the valve clearances when I put the rocker assembly back on as they were very loose before, I made them slightly loose to the specified feeler gaps. Would over tightning of the followers cause the sound/wear? I double checked all the gaps so Im sure its not that, but something to look at I guess. Im still suspicious of the fuel pump, I did some tests by blocking one ear and using a tube moving around the engine bay and it really is loudest when pointing that the fuel pump. But its $130 for a new one so Im loath to pull it out only to find the noise is still there. But its looking like Im gonna have to go that way.
  4. Eliminated fan belt alternator and water pump by removing the fan belt completely and running the engine. The noise is definately comming from the inlet side of the engine pretty much ruling out the starter. Only things it could be on that side are... Crank vent, but there isnt enough pressure in the crank case to make this kind of noise. Inlet manifold/carb vacum leak, unlikely as I noticed when i turn off the engine the offending object spins down in time with it, a vacum leak would loose pressure as the engine went off and stop all together once the rpm dropped too low (right?). Fuel Pump... Im thinking its this, going to investigate it further, anyone else had a similar problem with the pump?
  5. Ok tried it again today, started up with a bit of effort. Once she was going there was no whining noise. Just a bit of rattling from the starter area so Im guessing that may be suss anyway. Left it running for about 5 mins then the noise started up again, after listening again the noise only varys slightly with revs. The other thing I noticed was fumes comming out of the oil filler hole, not pouring out, but a constant flow of light white/blue fumes... so Im guessing the head gasket hasnt sealed properly or something is burning oil inside the engine. Bloody annoying.
  6. Its constant at idle, goes up and down with RPM. At 4k and above the sound stops so probably not a vacum leak. Starter would make sence I guess, will have to pull it out and check.
  7. Hiyas, Just finished rebuilding the top end of my mk2 as the head gasket was faulty, put it all back together set valve clearances as per haynes, replaced absolutely everything that needed to be replaced (Gaskets, hoses), put in new points and gapped em. Filled it up with coolant, started her up yesterday and it was all fine, ran it for 20 mins, turned it off for 15 mins or so, started it back up with no probs and ran it for a further 10 mins, then called it a night. But today when I went out and went to do the timing etc its making a bloody awful whining noise as soon as I started it. To describe the type of sound... Its a constant whine sounds almost like something is rubbing on the belt, but its not I checked that first. Only other thing Ive ever heard like it is when you have faulty plug leads and turn the stereo up and get that high pitched whine from the speakers. But the sound is comming from the engine somewhere. Im a bit scared to leave it running too long incase its something serious, anyone have any ideas what it might be?
  8. Hiyas, Been having problems winding up and down the windows so I pulled apart the doors to have a look and found that the teeth on the winder unit inside the door are all worn. Basically when I wind the window up or down it just makes a clunking noise and nothing moves. Just wondering what the best way to fix this is? Can you get replacements or reconditioned units or do you just have to get a 2nd hand replacement? Thanks
  9. Kinda hoping it is the head gasket as thats cheaper than a recond radiator anyway. Will do a comp test and see later on. Thanks heaps for that, it never crossed my mind to check the comp.
  10. Shit never thought of that, any other ideas before I rip apart the topend? Will a comp tester show this?
  11. Just reconditioned the Carb over the weekend, plugged it all back in, hooked up the auto choke that was previously disconnected. Started up the car, and left it to warm up so I could set the mixture/idle. 5 mins later there was water pissing out of the overflow tube that comes off the radiator cap, steam everywhere etc. Turned the car off and there was mega steam comming out. So I changed the radiator cap and thermostat. I had already cleaned out the auto choke so no blockage problems as far as I can tell. Refilled coolant. Started it up and 5 mins later same problem. The temp guage is only reading 1/2 when the water starts to piss out, and when the thermostat closes the water starts to come out like mad. Any Ideas on what it could be? Im wondering if the radiator is all clogged up, as its pretty old by the looks. Thanks.
  12. Nice one thanks, will definately have to check around some more. Should have the Weber rebuilt sometime this week when I get time (it has 2L jets in it atm I think since the last person who had it said they got the carb off a pinto). So should be able to drive it round a few places and compare prices, not seen any classic places round CHCH yet tho
  13. #&$* just got a quote of $650 to fix up the wheel arches (just to fold the front metal, and weld up the back) and weld up the C pillar rust. Is that reasonable? Thanks for the tip on hiring honing tool too, will phone around the hire places.
  14. Picked her up 2 weeks ago and only driven twice (runs like a dead dog that has been buried in cement). Done far too much planning on parts/prices I even have a spreadsheet made up Current State: Very straight body, one dent in rear, rust on the C pillars in the usual place. Badly cut away Wheel arches from a flare job by previous owner. Needs the rare arches welding together and the front ones tidied up. Interior needs alot of love. 1300 engine currently has a Twin Choke Weber, 4-1 Extractors into a 2" pipe. Initially had an APEXi big bore turbo muffler on it, now with something a little more fitting of an escort that sounds better. Engine is out of tune due to previous owner having no clue. 0-60 time is probably somewhere about the 5 hour mark at the moment Current Plans: Do some doughnuts. Fully strip down car, bead blast/sand off everything inc underside. Weld up C pillars and rear wheel arches. Repaint everything, retar bottom. Install new suspension gear (Bushes, Springs, Shocks, Add leaf and reset springs). Refurbish interior entirely. Install electrics (Alarm/Central locking etc) Replace 1300 with 2 Litre Pinto. Install 5 Speed sierra. Restore Ghia seats. Get everything certed. Only limiting factor will be time, luckily it will have a nice big garage to sit in for the whole project. Car as is. The wheel arches, these give me nightmares.
  15. Im in CHCH, was looking at getting a new cam from Kelfords providing I get all the other work/parts I want done cheaply enough. Will be doing the majority of the rebuild work myself, but I dont have access to things like a honing tool unfortuantely.
  16. Nice one thanks guys, I was budgeting for about $1500, so sounds like I was close. Where would the best place to buy the OS pistons be? I dont know any "people" I can only get mates rates on all the electrical stuff.
  17. Someone went to town on the guards with some tin snips and a hack saw I think. They cut away both back and front guards to put on some on previously. They also only filled up the back guards with bog so its a bit dodgy atm. Im planning on welding up the back guards and tidying up the cuts they made and finishing them properly. Then putting on some screw on fibre flares and filling over the top with fibre body filler. No idea if thats the best way to go about it, Im new to flares too, but fitting new wheel arches is kinda beyond my welding skills
  18. rednfast

    Mk2 Rebuild

    Hiyas, Im currently in the planning stages and just trying to find out what the overall cost of the rebuild is likely to cost as Im on a tight budget. The engine Im going to rebuild is a 1600 xflow, it will be replacing the 1300 I have in at the moment. I have a basic Idea of the cost of the generic parts such as gaskets, bearings and rings. But are there any other parts I should know about that are good to replace while the engine is stripped down. Ive never rebuilt an OHV engine before so any help on the critical parts Ill need would be appreciated. Some things Im not really sure about include... Pushrods - Can I get off the shelf replacements for these? Pistons - I see people say about reboring, where can I get OS esky pistons? And whats the damage likely to be? Also as far as Certs go, Im going to be putting on some fibre flares, is there any worry with certs here, Im not sure if the wheel arches on Mk2s are considered structural? Thanks Heaps.
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