rxsumo

Rough enough.....

The Cosmo when it was leaving Japan - 10 mumble years ago

Waiting for a tow truck once it hit NZ

That seems like a bloody good deal alright.

Would be so long as it doesnt need rebuilding

With the exception of the parts common with the other "modern" engines - ie not twin dissy - only 10A unique engine parts available are the single piece apex seals - so no apex seal springs.

Hence the reason we decided to go away from racing a 10APP

Since it seems like everybody else is putting there 50c worth in......

Couple of things to be weary of - the RX3 isnt a flash car to drive in stock form - for its time - it had good HP/performance - but shit brakes and handling.

With the modified cars - its likely that the one you test drive - will almost definitely drive differently to the car you ultimately may buy.

My RX3 "race car" is any absolute pig to drive at slow speed and around town - but show it a race track - or a nice windy road at highway speeds and its awesome and rewarding to drive - my old stock 10A Coupe, felt like the 40+ year old car - it was pretty horrible - even with some handling/suspension mods - a LSD and larger wheels.

Based on the prices here for the cars - you might want to have a look at Japan - and importing a Savanna GT/GSII

Its been a quiet few months - so time for an update.

The last outing was in September - and was wet all day - I won the class with a slow 1:29:90 fastest lap time. This was good enough to win my class for the season - and second place in the overall drivers standings.

Its been great to have a season with only minor niggles rather than engine failures.

With the season at an end - it was time to take care of the "admin" stuff - the car needed to be recerted because of the engine/gearbox/wheel changes to keep it legal.

None of the upgrades directly caused any grief for the inspection - the car needs to have a drive shaft hoop fitted due to the substantial increase over original HP (which was the case with the 10A), the wheel spacers needed to be secured to the hub (the wheel spacers were needed with the 15 x 7 wheels that the car was certed for), and the brake bias adjuster needed to be covered so that it cant be operated on the move (again the adjuster was fitted and certed with the rear disc upgrade).

So I'm assuming that the regs have changed - or the certifier was a little lax with his reading of the rules.

Anyhow its now got a drive shaft hoop

A cover for the bias adjuster - courtesy of Kapiti Ice Cream

And the spacers are now secured

The spacers were the hardest thing to sort - the countersunk screws are M10 metric fine by 50mm long - and there were no fasteners in the country - and none expected before January.

So they needed to be ordered in from the UK - at a cost of 2.50 pounds each - and of course then the counter sinking bit required - was bigger than the hardware stores carry - so was $64.00 instead of $8.00

A mission.......

Now to get the retest done....so the paperwork will be complete and the cert reissued

from wikipedia

1964 AA AB AC AD AE AF AG AH AI AJ AK AL AM AN

1965 AO AP AQ AR AS AT AU AV AW AX AY AZ BA BB BC BD BE BF BG BH

1966 BI BJ BK BL BM BN BO BP BQ BR BS BT BU BV BW BX BY BZ CA CB

1967 CC CD CE CF CG CH CI CJ CK CL CM CN CO CP CQ CS CT CU CV CW CX CY CZ DA

1968 DB DC DD DE DF DG DH DI DJ DK DL DM DN DO DP DQ DR DS DT DU DV DW DX DY DZ EA EB EC ED

1969 EE EF EG EH EI EJ EK EL EM EN EO EP EQ ER ES ET EU EV EW EX EY EZ FB FC FD FE

1970 FF FG FH FI FJ FK FL FM

1971 FN FP FQ FR FS FT FV FW

1972 FX FY FZ GA GB GC GD GE GF GH GJ

1973 GG GI GK GL GM GN GO GP GQ GR GS GT GU GX GY

1974 GW GZ HA HC HD HE HF HG HH HJ HK

1975 HB HI HL HM HN HR HS HT HU

1976 HO HP HQ HW HX HY HZ IA IB IC ID IF IH IJ

1977 IE IG IK IL IM IN IP IR

1978 IQ IS IT IU IW IX IY JA JB

1979 IZ JC JD JE JF JG JI JJ JT

1980 JH JK JL JM JN JO JP JQ JR JS JU JW JX

1981 JY JZ KA KB KC KD KE KF KG KH KI KL

1982 KJ KK KM KN KO KP KQ KR KS KT KY

1983 KU KW KX KZ LA LB LC LD LE LF LG LH LI LJ LK LL LM LN

1984/85 LO LP LQ LR LS LT LU LW LX LY LZ MA MB MC MD ME MF MG MH MJ MK

1985/86 MI ML MM MO MP MQ MR MS MT MU MW MX MY MZ NE NG

1987 NA NB NC ND NF NH NI NJ NK NL NM NN NP

1988 NO NQ NR NS NT NU NW NX NY NZ OA OB

1989 OC OD OE OF OG OH OI OJ OK OL OM ON OO OP OQ OS

1990 OR OT OU OW OX OY OZ PA PB PC PD PE PF PG PH PI PJ PK PL PO

1991 PM PN PP PQ PR PS PT PU PW PX PY PZ RA RB RC RD

1992 RE RF RG RH RI RJ RK RL RM RN RO RP RQ RR RT

1993 RS RU RW RX RY RZ SA SB SC SD SE SF

1994 SG SH SI SJ SK SL SM SN SO SP SQ SR SS ST SU SW SX SY SZ TA

1995 TB TC TD TE TF TG TH TI TJ TK TL TM TN TO TP TQ TR TS TT TW TX

1996 TU TY TZ UA UB UC UD UE UF UG UH UI UJ UK UL UM UN UO UP UQ UR US UT

1997 UU UW UX UY UZ WA WB WC WD WE WF WG WH WI WJ WK WL WM WN WO WP WQ WR WS

1998 WT WU WW WX WY WZ XA XB XC XD XE XF XG XH XI XJ XK XL XM XN XO XP XQ

1999 XR XS XT XU XW XX XY XZ YA YB YC YD YE YF YG YH YI YJ YK YL YM YN YO YP YQ YR YS

2000 YT YU YW YX YY YZ ZA ZB ZC ZD ZE ZF ZG ZH ZI ZJ ZK ZL ZM ZN ZO ZP ZQ ZR ZS ZT ZU

2001 ZW ZX ZY ZZ AAA-AKK

2002 AKL-BAK

2003 BAL-BSS

2004 BST-CKY

2005 CKZ-DCZ

2006 DDA-DRG

2007 DRH-EHC

2008 EHD-EUE

2009 EUF-FFZ

2010 FGA-FSZ

2011 FTA-GEK

2012 GEL-GRN

2013 GRP-HFE

2014 HFF-

It was possible to get the odd old plate - but not the other way around

The Post Office where NZMC in Wellington used to register their new cars had some old plates lying around we had a '71 Mini Clubman with EU number plates, and some family friends brought anew Marina in '75 that also had EU number plates

My Jan '73 Parts Book agrees with the 0305-70-861C for the lower sill moulding - the RX3 Sedans and Coupes use the same part - need 10 of the clips according to the book

In the sports catalogue for the RX3 - it only mentions 1 size available for the bearing - and claims that the material in the bearing is more suited for high RPM endurance running - which generally our track cars wont be doing

The RX7 sports catalogue mentions a standard bearing and one oversize.

All the engine builders that have been involved with my engines - machine their own bearings - so deeper galleries and additional oil feed holes - so I cant see any point in trying to track down MFR stuff - which I would have assumed has disappeared for 12A - perhaps still around for 13B

Thanks - the American sites seem to have the MMC colours - but dont show the NZ local colours - they show a Canadian Green but it doesnt look dark enough

Hi

I'm trying to locate the paint name/code for the dark metallic green that the Mitsi Cordias were painted.

Does anybody have an old paint chart or Mitsi brochure that has the paint names/codes?

The NOS action is crazy - the Savanna bonnet grilles can be bought from Phils - and these are the real thing for around $A400 a set - why would you pay over $300 for some tatty used ones - and as for $260 for gear knob - without the painted shift positions.....these guys need to look on ebay or yahoo japan before bidding locally

Talking about NOS stuff

Time for a clean out at home

Sweet as, If you PM me or post on here or something after the weekend and I don't respond until Wednesday its because I'm booked in to be snowboarding Monday and Tuesday

 

EDIT: also rxsumo may or may not be able to confirm that they are the right ones.

Yep - they look like the correct bolts for the S1 factory alloy wheels - at least they are the same as I have - and they came of a car with the factory alloy wheels

Yeah, Phils rotarys. He has them made in Taiwan or Thailand or China or somewhere.

 

EDIT: Although I believe the panels are sold through a different company - The new old car company - but its still Phils rotarys

The new old car company - is Phil Rotaries - but its the part that specializes in other cars - basically they are reproducing stuff for all sorts of aussie - or aussie delivered stuff.

Its all sold through the Phils Rotaries shop - so there is Mazda stuff next to Holden stuff.

Pretty sure his suppliers are in Thailand

I'll probably have a set of standard RX7 wheel bolts as well - just need a pikkie of what you are looking for

I've got a set of the S1 Wheel bolts for the factory alloys - along with 1 centre cap - and 1 wheel. The wheel bolts are probably 50% longer than a standard RX steel wheel bolt

Does anyone have any information on Sachs engines? I've found all the typical specs but I'm looking for but I'm interested in reading up about some stuff about mucking around with them and maybe squeezing more power out of them

Have the rebuilding information from an old rotary book - scanned if that is any use

nah - they were a rare as beast - there were lots of HB Cosmo turbos. Even finding a S3 Turbo and gearbox was pretty hard - all the engines were ex Cosmo.

Mine was a real roughy. I bought it from a car dealer in Lower Hutt - who had traded it for a Honda Prelude.

It was bought into NZ as a wreck by one of the wreckers in the Hawkes Bay and rebuilt for one of their family. The story goes that the boys have been out on the piss one night - and wrecked it again - they fixed it and then traded it on the Honda.

As it was a S3 Turbo - we tidied it up the best we could - thought about restoring it - but the cost of the panels - exceeded the cost of bringing another one from Japan.

The rear floor was pretty bent - and there were gaps between the floor and the out side sheet metal - which meant all the panels had to be stripped off to repair properly.

When we got the car - the two front strut towers were 22mm out of alignment - chassis pull mainly fixed that.

For its day - with the stage 2 turbo engine - it was a pretty fast car - I had a couple of close calls with the law - so decided we probably should do something else before losing my licence.

I'd have another one - if I had the space - along with a S8 Spirit R - the two best RX7s in my opinion

This is one that we saw in Japan last year - absolutely mint - with red Mazdaspeed seats.

Some more old MREC shots - my old cars

RX7 S1 - 12A carbie turbo at a grass gymkhana out Wainui

My RX7 S3 Turbo GT at the MREC Thunder Park Sprints

Think it had the stage 2 engine in at this stage

Some more Moffat stuff - original cloth patch - postcard - sticker

I may be able to help - this looks similar to the old Wildcat steering wheel bosskits - I've go a wheel down here with bosskit - most likely Ford or Hunter - so let me know if the ebay thing doesnt work....

The bike is a complete runner - so yes the rear guard is complete - I suspect that one of the jobs "in progress" on the bike was to remove the ultra low rear gear (so it would hill climb around the farm), and chain - so I assume the guard was dismantled to remove the rear wheel. 

The bike - like most of the civilianised Indians at the time never had an air filter fitted - probably to squeeze every possible HP out of the engine .

I do have an oil bath air filter for the bike - one of my earlier purchases.

Not too sure on the money estimates for the 741B - world-wide they are starting to get good coin - but because NZ was flooded with the bikes in 1941 - I suspect the purchase price is a little lower here. I've seen them not selling on TradeMe for $12Kish for restored bikes.

The club valuation on my bike was $8500 as seen in the pictures.

Master plan for this year is to get the bike fired up - but not really do any restoration activities done as yet.

So ......

Get the exhaust mocked up - and then have the headers HPC coated

Fit the Saddle - so new frame mount (mounting plate and U-bolts) is required to complete

Get a new wiring loom and battery

Fit the lights

Have the wheels rebuilt - painted - new tyres

and then.....hopefully fire the engine up

oh and then I need to learn to ride the beast

Intention at this stage is to keep the bike red - had thought about the whole Khaki thing - but the bike was probably built out of parts after the war - and appears to have been always red (apart from the rear fame).

So probably red - except for the lights and rims - which I like black - go Stainless Spokes - unpainted as well - so a little bit of shiny stuff

Has that thing got triple tanks?

 

/swoon

Sort of - it has twin petrol tanks - the top filler on the RHS is for the oil tank